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***Official HSU owners/support thread!*** - Page 198

post #5911 of 5959
2/9/13 at 1:44pm
My bad. Somehow I read ULS 15 and vtf 15. I'm an idiot
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post #5912 of 5959
2/11/13 at 8:26am
Finally was able to watch a couple movies in the HT. I haven't done any calibrating yet, but have to say that the VTF-3 MK4 is fantastic! Absolutely no need for bass shakers in the seats. The sub takes care of that on its own. Thanks Dr. Hsu for a great sub!! Can't wait to get the HT calibrated to see (feel) what it can really do. Hard to believe it could get much better!
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post #5913 of 5959
2/19/13 at 4:06pm
What power position do you guys leave your HSU subwoofer in? I have the STF-2, is it best to leave it on all the time, leave it in auto-on, or just turn it on/off every time i use it?
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post #5914 of 5959
2/19/13 at 4:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroit_fan View Post

What power position do you guys leave your HSU subwoofer in? I have the STF-2, is it best to leave it on all the time, leave it in auto-on, or just turn it on/off every time i use it?
I have the VTF-2 MK3 and run it on Auto. It never has issues turning it'self on when needed.biggrin.gif
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post #5915 of 5959
2/19/13 at 5:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroit_fan View Post

What power position do you guys leave your HSU subwoofer in? I have the STF-2, is it best to leave it on all the time, leave it in auto-on, or just turn it on/off every time i use it?

15H's....Auto all the time.
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post #5916 of 5959
2/19/13 at 6:10pm
Auto
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post #5917 of 5959
2/20/13 at 9:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by raistline View Post

I have the VTF-2 MK3 and run it on Auto. It never has issues turning it'self on when needed.biggrin.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Prime316 View Post

15H's....Auto all the time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffw69 View Post

Auto

Thanks guys, I appreciate the replies
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post #5918 of 5959
2/20/13 at 11:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by detroit_fan View Post



Thanks guys, I appreciate the replies
Just found Dr Hsu's comments on the auto vs on position from a couple months ago. Here is a LINK to part of the conversation. You may need to follow though the bottom of the page to the next one to get all of his comments.
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post #5919 of 5959
2/20/13 at 1:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Just found Dr Hsu's comments on the auto vs on position from a couple months ago. Here is a LINK to part of the conversation. You may need to follow though the bottom of the page to the next one to get all of his comments.
thanks for finding that
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post #5920 of 5959
2/20/13 at 3:09pm
fwiw, I leave mine on all the time. With no signal, power consumption is the same . dual VTF 3/3's .
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post #5921 of 5959
2/20/13 at 3:48pm
Mines on Auto because when its On i get a thump when firing up the AVR.
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post #5922 of 5959
2/20/13 at 4:05pm
Mine is always on. No thumps or other spurious noises when turning my other equipment on or off.
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post #5923 of 5959
2/20/13 at 6:14pm
Always on, no problems.
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post #5924 of 5959
2/21/13 at 5:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickD1225 View Post

Mine is always on. No thumps or other spurious noises when turning my other equipment on or off.

Must depend on the AVR then.
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post #5925 of 5959
2/21/13 at 5:41pm
I have a Pioneer SC-25 with a separate Rotel RMB-1095 power amp.
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post #5926 of 5959
2/21/13 at 5:49pm
That is correct. The sub only amplifies whatever signal it gets. smile.gif
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post #5927 of 5959
3/19/13 at 11:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

A null is where a particular frequency have little output at that position. For example, if you sit in the middle of a 28 ft room, you will be sitting at the null of a 20 Hz signal.

Is it always a bad idea to sit in the middle of the room no matter the room size? I finally got some needed parts for my speakers and started to setup my HT in my new apartment, so far it seems like I might be sitting in the middle of the room, or closer to the rear walls but not against it. I need to get my lazy self to do a proper paint diagram of my room!

And a bump for HSU owners!!
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post #5928 of 5959
3/19/13 at 5:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

Is it always a bad idea to sit in the middle of the room no matter the room size? I finally got some needed parts for my speakers and started to setup my HT in my new apartment, so far it seems like I might be sitting in the middle of the room, or closer to the rear walls but not against it. I need to get my lazy self to do a proper paint diagram of my room!

And a bump for HSU owners!!

For most normal sized rooms, bass will always be weaker near the middle of the room. Yes, please do post your room layout. You can also do a simple hand sketch, take a photo of it with your iPhone (or equivalent) and email it to me at drhsu@hsuresearch.com.
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post #5929 of 5959
3/21/13 at 7:18am
Hello Dr. Hsu, I would like your opinion for my office/game room (40% gaming / 40% movies / 20% music). I have a attached a rough floor plan. I am looking at either the VTF-2 MK3 or VTF-3 MK4.

Here is a quick list of my current equipment:
Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR608
Mains/Surrounds: Polk RTi4
Center: Polk CSiA4
Source: PS3 / Gaming PC
Projector: Epson 8350
Screen: Seymour A/V Center Stage XD

Any thoughts on placement and which of the 2 subs would you suggest? As you can see by the floor plan, the room is usually sealed as the door blocks one of the surrounds (hoping to change the door in future to open out).
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post #5930 of 5959
3/21/13 at 7:21am
What's the toe in recommendation for the HB-1s? I know I read it on here somewhere but can't find it. Is it different if the LP is against the back wall?
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post #5931 of 5959
3/21/13 at 8:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by diy_canuck View Post

Hello Dr. Hsu, I would like your opinion for my office/game room (40% gaming / 40% movies / 20% music). I have a attached a rough floor plan. I am looking at either the VTF-2 MK3 or VTF-3 MK4.

Here is a quick list of my current equipment:
Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR608
Mains/Surrounds: Polk RTi4
Center: Polk CSiA4
Source: PS3 / Gaming PC
Projector: Epson 8350
Screen: Seymour A/V Center Stage XD

Any thoughts on placement and which of the 2 subs would you suggest? As you can see by the floor plan, the room is usually sealed as the door blocks one of the surrounds (hoping to change the door in future to open out).

I would go with the VTF-3 MK4 and try two locations - right behind your favorite spot, with woofer firing into the back of the love seat, or in the front left corner.
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post #5932 of 5959
3/21/13 at 8:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post

What's the toe in recommendation for the HB-1s? I know I read it on here somewhere but can't find it. Is it different if the LP is against the back wall?

You want to toe in the HB-1s so the tweeter axes cross a couple of feet in front of you. Does not matter if the LP is against the back wall.
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post #5933 of 5959
4/4/13 at 5:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

For most normal sized rooms, bass will always be weaker near the middle of the room. Yes, please do post your room layout. You can also do a simple hand sketch, take a photo of it with your iPhone (or equivalent) and email it to me at drhsu@hsuresearch.com.

I finally put everything together and started calibrating, here's my attempt for a sketch (please read the notes in purple for more info):

room-ht.png 22k .png file

VTF3 Mk3 settings:
- Volume is a quarter way up next to the line, that's at 9'oclock, right?
- Bass extensions = 2 ports open, not using plugs
- Phase = 0
- Crossover knob = max
- Crossover switch = out


I started the Yamaha YPAO auto calibration with FLAT EQ settings, I heard the Yamaha YPAO isn't good for subs at all, but here's what it gave me anyway:
Phase = Reverse
Crossover = 80Hz
Volume = was around 11 ticks louder than the normal (middle) dB settings !

I then set all the speakers to small and used my Analog RadioShack meter to adjust the sound level, volume on receiver was at -6 dB and then adjusted all the speakers be leveled @ 70dB on the Radioshack meter.

In the AVR settings, I changed the Subwoofer phase from Reverse to Normal (I have no idea what phase does btw) and adjusted the volume settings in the AVR so it would be 0, right in the middle.

I then used the supplied HSU disc and played the Third-octave-wide warble tones at the same AVR volume (-6dB) that I adjusted my speakers to 70dB, and here's what the sound levels were:

80Hz = 81.5 dB
63Hz = 85.5 dB
50Hz = 91.5 dB
40Hz = 92.5 dB
31.5Hz = 82 dB
25Hz = 78 dB

Note: The volume numbers are adjusted according to the corrected low frequency numbers for the Analog RS SPL, I'm sure those aren't very accurate since it's only a RS meter, but it's better than nothing I guess.

Now I'm not even sure if using such octave can be compared to the built in pink noise in my AVR that I adjusted my speakers with, but that's all I got to use. I needed to raise the volume of the sub by a lot when tried adjusting by the AVR pink noise, so I didn't do that since it sounded like a bad idea.

So, how bad are those numbers? Too many peaks? I have 0 experience with fixing peaks, nulls and don't know how to classify one to be honest.

Should I just lower the sub volume on the receiver by a bit (afraid it would be too little) or start moving the sub around?


Any help would be really appreciated Dr. Hsu and I apologize for posting too much messy info.
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post #5934 of 5959
4/4/13 at 6:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by metallicaband View Post

I finally put everything together and started calibrating, here's my attempt for a sketch (please read the notes in purple for more info):

room-ht.png 22k .png file

VTF3 Mk3 settings:
- Volume is a quarter way up next to the line, that's at 9'oclock, right?
- Bass extensions = 2 ports open, not using plugs
- Phase = 0
- Crossover knob = max
- Crossover switch = out


I started the Yamaha YPAO auto calibration with FLAT EQ settings, I heard the Yamaha YPAO isn't good for subs at all, but here's what it gave me anyway:
Phase = Reverse
Crossover = 80Hz
Volume = was around 11 ticks louder than the normal (middle) dB settings !

I then set all the speakers to small and used my Analog RadioShack meter to adjust the sound level, volume on receiver was at -6 dB and then adjusted all the speakers be leveled @ 70dB on the Radioshack meter.

In the AVR settings, I changed the Subwoofer phase from Reverse to Normal (I have no idea what phase does btw) and adjusted the volume settings in the AVR so it would be 0, right in the middle.

I then used the supplied HSU disc and played the Third-octave-wide warble tones at the same AVR volume (-6dB) that I adjusted my speakers to 70dB, and here's what the sound levels were:

80Hz = 81.5 dB
63Hz = 85.5 dB
50Hz = 91.5 dB
40Hz = 92.5 dB
31.5Hz = 82 dB
25Hz = 78 dB

Note: The volume numbers are adjusted according to the corrected low frequency numbers for the Analog RS SPL, I'm sure those aren't very accurate since it's only a RS meter, but it's better than nothing I guess.

Now I'm not even sure if using such octave can be compared to the built in pink noise in my AVR that I adjusted my speakers with, but that's all I got to use. I needed to raise the volume of the sub by a lot when tried adjusting by the AVR pink noise, so I didn't do that since it sounded like a bad idea.

So, how bad are those numbers? Too many peaks? I have 0 experience with fixing peaks, nulls and don't know how to classify one to be honest.

Should I just lower the sub volume on the receiver by a bit (afraid it would be too little) or start moving the sub around?


Any help would be really appreciated Dr. Hsu and I apologize for posting too much messy info.
Looks good. Only thing, 2 ports open is max output. 1 port open is max extension.
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post #5935 of 5959
4/4/13 at 6:09pm
Can you post the SPL readings for four frequencies above 80? i.e., 100, 125, 160 and 200 Hz. Also, flip the phase switch and see what it does to the 80 Hz reading. Those readings are with the sub and main speakers running, correct? The numbers you posted are the actual readings plus the correction numbers, correct? i.e. actual raw numbers are lower that your posted numbers?
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post #5936 of 5959
4/5/13 at 12:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

Can you post the SPL readings for four frequencies above 80? i.e., 100, 125, 160 and 200 Hz. Also, flip the phase switch and see what it does to the 80 Hz reading. Those readings are with the sub and main speakers running, correct? The numbers you posted are the actual readings plus the correction numbers, correct? i.e. actual raw numbers are lower that your posted numbers?

- Yes the speakers are on, I'm playing the audio CD normally from my PS3, I think only the Subwoofer and Fronts are working without the surrounds since this isn't a multi channel disc. All of the speakers are set to small and LFE is set to come from the Subwoofer only without fronts.
- Yes the raw numbers are less, I added the corrections for the final dB value, e.g added +5 for the 25Hz reading and +1.5 to the 80Hz reading.

I re-measured, this time around I'll mention the fluctuation range for each frequency:

80Hz = 82.5 - 85.5
63Hz = 85.5 - 86.5
50Hz = 89.5 - 92.5
40Hz = 91.5 - 92.5
31.5Hz = 81 - 83
25Hz = 75 - 78

100Hz = 93 - 95
125Hz = 91.5 - 92.5
160Hz = 96.5
200Hz = 89.5 - 90.5
250Hz = 90.5 < there was a weird static like sound in this, didn't keep it much on fearing it'll cause damage to the speakers


When switching the phase switch only to check the 80Hz frequency as you requested, I barely noticed any difference, it gave a sound level of around 82.5-84.5, the Normal phase seemed a tiny bit louder.

I'm assuming the speakers are only working for anything above 80Hz due to the crossover, is there any reason to try this with the speakers disconnected considering how the Subwoofer is in charge of the lower frequencies? Not sure if this info is useful, but my front speakers are around 1.5 feet away from the back wall and I'm using a half plug (not a complete full plug) in the speaker's woofer ports so the bass would be less "boomy".

So, is this a decent result for a completely non-treated room or should I look for better spots? Those low frequencies test tones sure make my ears hurt with the all the pressure lol

I live in an apartment at the moment, I honestly can't wait to move someday to my own home so I can have a dedicated fully treated home theater room.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ambesolman View Post

Looks good. Only thing, 2 ports open is max output. 1 port open is max extension.
Yeah I knew that, just wanted to be clear about which mode I'm using, the option is called "Bass extension" to choose between max output and max extension on the sub.
Edited by metallicaband - 4/5/13 at 2:00pm
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post #5937 of 5959
4/7/13 at 7:24am
I have a STF-2 that is about 7 years old and have recently discovered the "green light of death" indicating that the amp is no longer working. I've tested on another receiver and changed cables to make sure, no love. Is it possible and/or worth it to attempt repair? I live in the Denver area and was looking for a repair facility without any luck. Any advice?
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post #5938 of 5959
4/7/13 at 8:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwanthd View Post

I have a STF-2 that is about 7 years old and have recently discovered the "green light of death" indicating that the amp is no longer working. I've tested on another receiver and changed cables to make sure, no love. Is it possible and/or worth it to attempt repair? I live in the Denver area and was looking for a repair facility without any luck. Any advice?
Have you contacted HSU they have great customer service?
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post #5939 of 5959
4/7/13 at 8:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwanthd View Post

I have a STF-2 that is about 7 years old and have recently discovered the "green light of death" indicating that the amp is no longer working. I've tested on another receiver and changed cables to make sure, no love. Is it possible and/or worth it to attempt repair? I live in the Denver area and was looking for a repair facility without any luck. Any advice?[/quote

In sure you can order a be amp from them, just call.
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post #5940 of 5959
4/8/13 at 3:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by oztech View Post

Have you contacted HSU they have great customer service?

I took your advice and received a very prompt response with a choice of solutions for my situation.
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