The Official Sony 2007 KDS-(XX)A2020 [NO PRICE TALK] SXRD Owner's Thread - Page 118

This seems to be the symptoms of a lamp that needs to be replaced. I would look into that and find the correct replacement model.

I'm happy to say that I got my replacement TV yesterday, the KDL55HX729, and its great so far. The picture is nice and I love all the feature, even though there are so many menu's and options to look over and find things. But I like the little extras, and the best one for me is the built in DLNA, so I can stream HD movies directly to my TV from my Twonky media server without anything else is great. Now I don't need my PS3 anymore heh.....

Sony Style must have taken care of most everyone on this thread now.
2 weeks and no new posts.
Just moved over the 55SXRD 2020 off the stand and put the 55 NX720 on the stand.
I was concerned the gorilla glass screen would be too reflective, but had determined it would be easier to deal with the reflections than deal with a TV (different model, matte finish) that had a lesser quality picture.
Reflections are almost non-existent on first viewing.
Also, I really did not appreciate how much the SXRD picture had deteriorated until I could see if side by side with the NX720.
nw

I value the info you guys provide greatly, so I will at least provide my first post on this forum!
I received correspondence from SonyListens regarding my 2 optical block failures on my 50a2020. They have given me the option of a 46EX500 at no cost, or a 55EX500 for $200. Guess i have some time (1 week) to sit on it before I pull the trigger. Decisions, decisions.

do your research and if you are OK take it.
If not, pick out a couple better models and ask for them.
might be more $$ but much better TV.
Check the NX models and the 720 series of the EX.

They have room to move and it depends on what shows on their screen at any time, and (I think) who you talk to.

nw

Hi everyone. My KDS 60A2020 I purchased in 2007 has finally succomed to optic block failure. The upper half of my screen has a yellow/green tinge to it. It started off just a little but is now very noticable. I am sending a e-mail to Sonylistens in hopes they are still offering replacement TVs for a reduced cost. I was debating sending the optic block in for repair and getting who knows what life from it. I would rather replace the TV and move on. It's good to see they are still making offers, hope I get something decent.

Just got the following offer for my unit:

KDL55EX500 for $300.00 + local sales tax
KDL60EX720 for $1175.00 + local sales tax

Those seem a bit higher in comparison to what's been offered to others. Additionally the systems are older and a lower family compared to what was offered earlier. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated, thanks.

Well my 60A2000 was over $3000 in '06. Your 2020 was probably a lot less than that. I'm sure they have some sort of formula taking into account original purchase price, depreciation, etc. If you don't think it's a fair offer, it wouldn't hurt to ask if they can do better.

BTW, my new 55EX500 beats my SXRD in many ways. Sharpness, contrast, brightness are all better. Sound is clearly inferior though. All other aspects are great: no more SSE, less start delay, almost no warmup, no more bulbs to buy, no fan noise, more inputs, less real estate.

Thanks for the feedback. They do seem to be all over the place though with their offers, perhaps it's all based on their inventory levels and what they need to get out of their refurbished warehouse. I'm simply speculating based on other offers made to folks with the A2020 models. I also wonder how they factor in the original cost since the 60" sets were more expensive than 55" yet in some posts folks with 55" received better offers.

Well my folks KDF55WF655 just started the blue problem like mine did back in January. They just got offered 2 sets. One was the 46" low end model and the KDL 55EX500. They ended up choosing the 55" at $500. Our models are over 6 1/2 years old and I thought the offer was reasonable for age.

I got my replacement set (KDL 60EX700) back in January for $725, to me that was a better deal than my folks.

I got the same offer as aseaz404. I am trying to decide if I can live with a 55, get the 60 with LED and all the bells and whisles, or get the 55 and sell it on CL, put some money in and get a Panisonic Plasma. Everything I have read is Plasma still has the best and most accurate color and black. I wonder how close that EX720 is to the plasma though. hmmm

Question for everyone out there who has been accepting the replacement TV offers from Sony. What are you doing with your SXRD (keeping it, selling it, throwing it, etc.)?

I received my 55NX810 back in March and actually had it replaced because it the screen had some really weird bright spots in a few places. If you looked at the TV from the side it looked as if it had been "bruised", just like if you push on a computer monitor too hard and it leaves a spot. The replacement didn't as many spots but still has a few. The LED Dynamic Control feature helps if it is on standard but still. I honestly am fed up with having nothing but problems with my Sony TVs. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely loved my SXRD and my NX810 looks fantastic, except for these little flaws. I much rather prefer RPTVs over panels and I am beginning to think I should sell my SXRD for what I can and my NX810 and just buy a Mitsu DLP. What is everyone thoughts and I guess, what are all of you doing?

Thanks everyone!

I just received the EX500 from Sony. From what I understand, the performance in some respects is better than the LED edge lighting on the EX720.

MY EX500 gives good blacks and a very decent picture. I used the settings suggested on the EX500 group in this avsforum. The only shortcomming is that the audio output to a receiver via RCA cables is not controlled by the set but is fixed, requiring that you have two remotes or a programable remote. The EX500's remote will not operate a Sony receiver.

I regularly see these selling on Craigslist, sometimes described as 'with problems' and sometimes the seller says that Sony has replaced it under the program. Post for $100-150, depending on size. You can also take the Sony replacement and then try to fix the SXRD yourself with a rebuilt engine from tristate.

Yesterday we turned the TV on, and whilst waiting for the set to show programming started to smell something burning. Then we saw smoke from the back of the TV... I pulled the power, and looked for the location of the smoke and foul odor. The odor, and smoke originated from the bulb housing area. Upon further "inspection" the electrical connection from the bulb housing into the TV was melted and burned. I had to destroy some of the bulb housing connections just to get the bulb out to ensure it wasn't broken or melted as well (it wasn't).

My question: Is it possible to repair this? If so, does anyone have any ideas where to find the parts I might require to perfom this sort of repair?

New/used ballasts come with the red wires and the connector on the end that screws onto the lamp housing. Hopefully the area that the connector attaches to is not too damaged to accept a new connector.

Your lamp housing connector may also be damaged. If you have an old burned out lamp you can swap the wires or complete housing.

Splicing is not a good idea for the same reason you don't splice spark wires in your car. The ballast generates around 3500V when it fires the gap in the lamp, and those red wires are HV silicone insulated.

I have a 55"KDS A2020 manufactured May 2007 and the optical block problem has been bad for over a year and a half now. Mine has brown shadows all over the screen looks like something that was nicotine stained only I am a non smoker.....Can anyone tell me what their recent replacement offer has been after replacing a lamp. I just want to compare it.!!!!

My set is giving me blue Blacks. From what I read this seems to be the start of the OB failure. Is it worthy of a replacement offer from Sony, or do they only consider the yellow stain and green bloches reason to offer replacement offeres?

Do it. Don't delay.
Make sure you can catch the effect in a picture. YOu make have to work with various exposure times, etc.

If you are seeing blue-blacks, your whites are probably tinted yellow if you have another set to compare.
I was surprised at how bad mine was when I did side by side.

They will not be doing these offers forever.

Just want to add that I was made a couple offers for my KDS-55A2020.

I ended up going with a KDL-55HX820 for $775. I was also offered:

KDL-46EX500 for $25.00
KDL-55EX500 for $200.00

and

KDL-55NX720 for $650
KDL-55HX820 for $775

I tried to make a case for a 60NX720, but was told that since I had a 55" they could not offer a 60". I have seen some previous offers for 60" to those that had 55"s, but they were over $1000 so I didn't bother asking again. Overall I'm pretty happy and looking forward to watching movies that aren't tinted green.

IMPORTANT NOTICE

I maintain the informational web site on Sony optical block and related problems with their 2002-2007 rear projection liquid crystal TVs. Sony had been running an "optical block program" for about 1-1/2 years in which owners of these failed TVs received discounts off newer direct-view LCD TVs in exchange for a legal release. This program was abruptly terminated today, and the "I Have A Defective Sony TV" Facebook page, with tens of thousands of customer posts, was turned off.

If you have a pending settlement with Sony for a failed optical block, you should probably try to resolve it quickly, as it is unknown whether Sony will be offering any future program. There is an alternative Facebook page called "I Still Have a Defective Sony TV" that can be used for general discussion/complaints.

Any idea if Sony is honoring offers made before Oct 27? I mailed my documents to Sony on Oct 27 and am waiting for their next step.

They are reportedly still honoring previous offers, as long as the 7-day expiration has not passed.

For the record, Sony offered the 55EX500 for $200 and the 60NX720 for $975. I did try to get sonething in between and was forawrded to "the next level represenitive", but no additional offer. She did say if I had out-of-pocket expenses, such as a lamp, they would reduce my cost if I emailed a receipt, but I had none.

Started process with email on Oct 20, sent docs on Oct 27, received email Nov 2 that Docs were received and TV will be shipped, recieved set on Nov 4. I will give Sony credit for fast sevice.

I am glad I checked back on this site when the blue-blacks where getting annoying. No to see how long the 60A2020 last before it is un-watchable.

Has any one found a way to reduce the blue-black problem with settings? From my observation, naturally the blue is less apparent with lower IRIS settings, So I would think I could compensate with higher Brightness. Any other solutions found yet?

One thing that has me confused is that the blue is real obvious on a "black" screen, that is when the program fades to black or there is no input, but when I watch programing with black components, they look black, sometimes. For instance, if a program is letter boxed, the stripes above and below are bluish, but if there is some one with black hair, it looks black next to the boarder stripe.

I can see the blue getting worse every week, so I don't know how long it will be feasible to keep it running.

Due mostly to the eye seeing it as black relative to the surrounding lighter areas. Try also putting a low level light, like a small (6 inch or less) flouresent behind the TV and the blacks get blacker.

I understand this phenomenom, but why would the boardering letterbox "Black" bars appear blue and the image appear black. If the letter boxing "black bars" cannot achieve true Black, how can the image achieve a blacker "Black"?

I would think the letter box bars would be at IRE 0 and the image would be at IRE 0+ something. If this is true then I wonder if the blue is actually increasing at something like IRE 2 DOWN to 0 and the image "Black" is at maybe IRE 10 where it was balanced to look D65 "black".

If this is the case, then is there a chance to balance out the IRE 0-1 range to be less blue and still achieve a good grey scale? Or is the going to result in a higher Y for IRE 0 which means we can never get to a true Black.

But, here is another observation: using a Greyscale Bars or gradiant pattern, I do not see a bar or area that looks "blueish", but when there is no input, or there is a fade-to-black, the screen looks blue. This too confuses me and makes me think there may be hope to achinving a D65 Black. Maybe this can be done by adjusting the SUB-BRT and RGB Biases in the service menu and closing the IRIS to MIN. I remember a post years ago about "Gonzo Black" by adding an optical black filter. I wonder if this is the only way to go to a true Black.

So I am just opening the discussion to see if anyone has found a way, short of opening the TV to either add a black filter or replace the OB, to get less Blue in Black.

^^^^^^^^^
way of getting blue blacks to look black:
use tv sony sent you as a replacement for the 2020

In one of the failure modes of the optical block, the blue liquid crystal panel degrades over time as it is exposed to UV and deep blue light. In areas of the image that are black, the panel is supposed to block all of the light, absorbing all of the energy. So, somewhat ironically, a black image actually degrades the panel more rapidly than a white one, because the white areas are the result of transmission of all of the energy through to the screen, rather than being absorbed by the panel.

As the polarized blue light hits the blue panel, the damaged liquid crystal is unable to block it completely, as it was designed to, so blue light leaks through. If the TV is operated frequently with letterboxiing, "bar" areas of the liquid crystal panel are exposed to higher energy than other areas, so they can degrade more rapidly. That can result in blue light leakage being worse in the letterbox frame. When gray or lighter colors are displayed it can overpower the blue light leakage, but it is still there.

You can adjust the blue and/or overall brightness down to hide the problem for awhile, but you are adjusting the whole picture, and it will likely reach a point where you can't hide it anymore.

By the way, blue/UV light has the highest energy. That is why blue anomalies are very common--particularly on the 3LCD models (as opposed to the SXRDs).

The engineer in me appreciates this detail.
I logical explanation to something I have always wondered about.

NW