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The Official Sony 2007 KDS-(XX)A2020 [NO PRICE TALK] SXRD Owner's Thread - Page 118

post #3511 of 3633
Just got the following offer for my unit:

KDL55EX500 for $300.00 + local sales tax
KDL60EX720 for $1175.00 + local sales tax

Those seem a bit higher in comparison to what's been offered to others. Additionally the systems are older and a lower family compared to what was offered earlier. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated, thanks.
post #3512 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by aseaz404 View Post

Just got the following offer for my unit:

KDL55EX500 for $300.00 + local sales tax
KDL60EX720 for $1175.00 + local sales tax

Those seem a bit higher in comparison to what's been offered to others. Additionally the systems are older and a lower family compared to what was offered earlier. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated, thanks.

Well my 60A2000 was over $3000 in '06. Your 2020 was probably a lot less than that. I'm sure they have some sort of formula taking into account original purchase price, depreciation, etc. If you don't think it's a fair offer, it wouldn't hurt to ask if they can do better.

BTW, my new 55EX500 beats my SXRD in many ways. Sharpness, contrast, brightness are all better. Sound is clearly inferior though. All other aspects are great: no more SSE, less start delay, almost no warmup, no more bulbs to buy, no fan noise, more inputs, less real estate.
post #3513 of 3633
Thanks for the feedback. They do seem to be all over the place though with their offers, perhaps it's all based on their inventory levels and what they need to get out of their refurbished warehouse. I'm simply speculating based on other offers made to folks with the A2020 models. I also wonder how they factor in the original cost since the 60" sets were more expensive than 55" yet in some posts folks with 55" received better offers.
post #3514 of 3633
Well my folks KDF55WF655 just started the blue problem like mine did back in January. They just got offered 2 sets. One was the 46" low end model and the KDL 55EX500. They ended up choosing the 55" at $500. Our models are over 6 1/2 years old and I thought the offer was reasonable for age.

I got my replacement set (KDL 60EX700) back in January for $725, to me that was a better deal than my folks.
post #3515 of 3633
I got the same offer as aseaz404. I am trying to decide if I can live with a 55, get the 60 with LED and all the bells and whisles, or get the 55 and sell it on CL, put some money in and get a Panisonic Plasma. Everything I have read is Plasma still has the best and most accurate color and black. I wonder how close that EX720 is to the plasma though. hmmm
post #3516 of 3633
Question for everyone out there who has been accepting the replacement TV offers from Sony. What are you doing with your SXRD (keeping it, selling it, throwing it, etc.)?

I received my 55NX810 back in March and actually had it replaced because it the screen had some really weird bright spots in a few places. If you looked at the TV from the side it looked as if it had been "bruised", just like if you push on a computer monitor too hard and it leaves a spot. The replacement didn't as many spots but still has a few. The LED Dynamic Control feature helps if it is on standard but still. I honestly am fed up with having nothing but problems with my Sony TVs. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely loved my SXRD and my NX810 looks fantastic, except for these little flaws. I much rather prefer RPTVs over panels and I am beginning to think I should sell my SXRD for what I can and my NX810 and just buy a Mitsu DLP. What is everyone thoughts and I guess, what are all of you doing?

Thanks everyone!
post #3517 of 3633
I just received the EX500 from Sony. From what I understand, the performance in some respects is better than the LED edge lighting on the EX720.

MY EX500 gives good blacks and a very decent picture. I used the settings suggested on the EX500 group in this avsforum. The only shortcomming is that the audio output to a receiver via RCA cables is not controlled by the set but is fixed, requiring that you have two remotes or a programable remote. The EX500's remote will not operate a Sony receiver.
post #3518 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by ddjensen View Post

Question for everyone out there who has been accepting the replacement TV offers from Sony. What are you doing with your SXRD (keeping it, selling it, throwing it, etc.)?

I received my 55NX810 back in March and actually had it replaced because it the screen had some really weird bright spots in a few places. If you looked at the TV from the side it looked as if it had been "bruised", just like if you push on a computer monitor too hard and it leaves a spot. The replacement didn't as many spots but still has a few. The LED Dynamic Control feature helps if it is on standard but still. I honestly am fed up with having nothing but problems with my Sony TVs. Don't get me wrong, I absolutely loved my SXRD and my NX810 looks fantastic, except for these little flaws. I much rather prefer RPTVs over panels and I am beginning to think I should sell my SXRD for what I can and my NX810 and just buy a Mitsu DLP. What is everyone thoughts and I guess, what are all of you doing?

Thanks everyone!

I regularly see these selling on Craigslist, sometimes described as 'with problems' and sometimes the seller says that Sony has replaced it under the program. Post for $100-150, depending on size. You can also take the Sony replacement and then try to fix the SXRD yourself with a rebuilt engine from tristate.
post #3519 of 3633
Yesterday we turned the TV on, and whilst waiting for the set to show programming started to smell something burning. Then we saw smoke from the back of the TV... I pulled the power, and looked for the location of the smoke and foul odor. The odor, and smoke originated from the bulb housing area. Upon further "inspection" the electrical connection from the bulb housing into the TV was melted and burned. I had to destroy some of the bulb housing connections just to get the bulb out to ensure it wasn't broken or melted as well (it wasn't).

My question: Is it possible to repair this? If so, does anyone have any ideas where to find the parts I might require to perfom this sort of repair?
post #3520 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperActionGuy View Post

Yesterday we turned the TV on, and whilst waiting for the set to show programming started to smell something burning. Then we saw smoke from the back of the TV... I pulled the power, and looked for the location of the smoke and foul odor. The odor, and smoke originated from the bulb housing area. Upon further "inspection" the electrical connection from the bulb housing into the TV was melted and burned. I had to destroy some of the bulb housing connections just to get the bulb out to ensure it wasn't broken or melted as well (it wasn't).

My question: Is it possible to repair this? If so, does anyone have any ideas where to find the parts I might require to perfom this sort of repair?

New/used ballasts come with the red wires and the connector on the end that screws onto the lamp housing. Hopefully the area that the connector attaches to is not too damaged to accept a new connector.

Your lamp housing connector may also be damaged. If you have an old burned out lamp you can swap the wires or complete housing.

Splicing is not a good idea for the same reason you don't splice spark wires in your car. The ballast generates around 3500V when it fires the gap in the lamp, and those red wires are HV silicone insulated.
post #3521 of 3633
I have a 55"KDS A2020 manufactured May 2007 and the optical block problem has been bad for over a year and a half now. Mine has brown shadows all over the screen looks like something that was nicotine stained only I am a non smoker.....Can anyone tell me what their recent replacement offer has been after replacing a lamp. I just want to compare it.!!!!
post #3522 of 3633
My set is giving me blue Blacks. From what I read this seems to be the start of the OB failure. Is it worthy of a replacement offer from Sony, or do they only consider the yellow stain and green bloches reason to offer replacement offeres?
post #3523 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry L View Post

My set is giving me blue Blacks. From what I read this seems to be the start of the OB failure. Is it worthy of a replacement offer from Sony, or do they only consider the yellow stain and green bloches reason to offer replacement offeres?

Do it. Don't delay.
Make sure you can catch the effect in a picture. YOu make have to work with various exposure times, etc.

If you are seeing blue-blacks, your whites are probably tinted yellow if you have another set to compare.
I was surprised at how bad mine was when I did side by side.

They will not be doing these offers forever.
post #3524 of 3633
Just want to add that I was made a couple offers for my KDS-55A2020.

I ended up going with a KDL-55HX820 for $775. I was also offered:

KDL-46EX500 for $25.00
KDL-55EX500 for $200.00

and

KDL-55NX720 for $650
KDL-55HX820 for $775

I tried to make a case for a 60NX720, but was told that since I had a 55" they could not offer a 60". I have seen some previous offers for 60" to those that had 55"s, but they were over $1000 so I didn't bother asking again. Overall I'm pretty happy and looking forward to watching movies that aren't tinted green.
post #3525 of 3633
IMPORTANT NOTICE

I maintain the informational web site on Sony optical block and related problems with their 2002-2007 rear projection liquid crystal TVs. Sony had been running an "optical block program" for about 1-1/2 years in which owners of these failed TVs received discounts off newer direct-view LCD TVs in exchange for a legal release. This program was abruptly terminated today, and the "I Have A Defective Sony TV" Facebook page, with tens of thousands of customer posts, was turned off.

If you have a pending settlement with Sony for a failed optical block, you should probably try to resolve it quickly, as it is unknown whether Sony will be offering any future program. There is an alternative Facebook page called "I Still Have a Defective Sony TV" that can be used for general discussion/complaints.
post #3526 of 3633
Any idea if Sony is honoring offers made before Oct 27? I mailed my documents to Sony on Oct 27 and am waiting for their next step.
post #3527 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry L View Post

Any idea if Sony is honoring offers made before Oct 27? I mailed my documents to Sony on Oct 27 and am waiting for their next step.

They are reportedly still honoring previous offers, as long as the 7-day expiration has not passed.
post #3528 of 3633
For the record, Sony offered the 55EX500 for $200 and the 60NX720 for $975. I did try to get sonething in between and was forawrded to "the next level represenitive", but no additional offer. She did say if I had out-of-pocket expenses, such as a lamp, they would reduce my cost if I emailed a receipt, but I had none.

Started process with email on Oct 20, sent docs on Oct 27, received email Nov 2 that Docs were received and TV will be shipped, recieved set on Nov 4. I will give Sony credit for fast sevice.

I am glad I checked back on this site when the blue-blacks where getting annoying. No to see how long the 60A2020 last before it is un-watchable.
post #3529 of 3633
Has any one found a way to reduce the blue-black problem with settings? From my observation, naturally the blue is less apparent with lower IRIS settings, So I would think I could compensate with higher Brightness. Any other solutions found yet?

One thing that has me confused is that the blue is real obvious on a "black" screen, that is when the program fades to black or there is no input, but when I watch programing with black components, they look black, sometimes. For instance, if a program is letter boxed, the stripes above and below are bluish, but if there is some one with black hair, it looks black next to the boarder stripe.

I can see the blue getting worse every week, so I don't know how long it will be feasible to keep it running.
post #3530 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry L View Post

One thing that has me confused is that the blue is real obvious on a "black" screen, that is when the program fades to black or there is no input, but when I watch programing with black components, they look black, sometimes. For instance, if a program is letter boxed, the stripes above and below are bluish, but if there is some one with black hair, it looks black next to the boarder stripe.

Due mostly to the eye seeing it as black relative to the surrounding lighter areas. Try also putting a low level light, like a small (6 inch or less) flouresent behind the TV and the blacks get blacker.
post #3531 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by news_watch View Post

Due mostly to the eye seeing it as black relative to the surrounding lighter areas. Try also putting a low level light, like a small (6 inch or less) flouresent behind the TV and the blacks get blacker.

I understand this phenomenom, but why would the boardering letterbox "Black" bars appear blue and the image appear black. If the letter boxing "black bars" cannot achieve true Black, how can the image achieve a blacker "Black"?

I would think the letter box bars would be at IRE 0 and the image would be at IRE 0+ something. If this is true then I wonder if the blue is actually increasing at something like IRE 2 DOWN to 0 and the image "Black" is at maybe IRE 10 where it was balanced to look D65 "black".

If this is the case, then is there a chance to balance out the IRE 0-1 range to be less blue and still achieve a good grey scale? Or is the going to result in a higher Y for IRE 0 which means we can never get to a true Black.

But, here is another observation: using a Greyscale Bars or gradiant pattern, I do not see a bar or area that looks "blueish", but when there is no input, or there is a fade-to-black, the screen looks blue. This too confuses me and makes me think there may be hope to achinving a D65 Black. Maybe this can be done by adjusting the SUB-BRT and RGB Biases in the service menu and closing the IRIS to MIN. I remember a post years ago about "Gonzo Black" by adding an optical black filter. I wonder if this is the only way to go to a true Black.

So I am just opening the discussion to see if anyone has found a way, short of opening the TV to either add a black filter or replace the OB, to get less Blue in Black.
post #3532 of 3633
^^^^^^^^^
way of getting blue blacks to look black:
use tv sony sent you as a replacement for the 2020
post #3533 of 3633
In one of the failure modes of the optical block, the blue liquid crystal panel degrades over time as it is exposed to UV and deep blue light. In areas of the image that are black, the panel is supposed to block all of the light, absorbing all of the energy. So, somewhat ironically, a black image actually degrades the panel more rapidly than a white one, because the white areas are the result of transmission of all of the energy through to the screen, rather than being absorbed by the panel.

As the polarized blue light hits the blue panel, the damaged liquid crystal is unable to block it completely, as it was designed to, so blue light leaks through. If the TV is operated frequently with letterboxiing, "bar" areas of the liquid crystal panel are exposed to higher energy than other areas, so they can degrade more rapidly. That can result in blue light leakage being worse in the letterbox frame. When gray or lighter colors are displayed it can overpower the blue light leakage, but it is still there.

You can adjust the blue and/or overall brightness down to hide the problem for awhile, but you are adjusting the whole picture, and it will likely reach a point where you can't hide it anymore.

By the way, blue/UV light has the highest energy. That is why blue anomalies are very common--particularly on the 3LCD models (as opposed to the SXRDs).
post #3534 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by splinke View Post

In one of the failure modes of the optical block, the blue liquid crystal panel degrades over time as it is exposed to UV and deep blue light. In areas of the image that are black, the panel is supposed to block all of the light, absorbing all of the energy. So, somewhat ironically, a black image actually degrades the panel more rapidly than a white one, because the white areas are the result of transmission of all of the energy through to the screen, rather than being absorbed by the panel.

As the polarized blue light hits the blue panel, the damaged liquid crystal is unable to block it completely, as it was designed to, so blue light leaks through. If the TV is operated frequently with letterboxiing, "bar" areas of the liquid crystal panel are exposed to higher energy than other areas, so they can degrade more rapidly. That can result in blue light leakage being worse in the letterbox frame. When gray or lighter colors are displayed it can overpower the blue light leakage, but it is still there.

You can adjust the blue and/or overall brightness down to hide the problem for awhile, but you are adjusting the whole picture, and it will likely reach a point where you can't hide it anymore.

By the way, blue/UV light has the highest energy. That is why blue anomalies are very common--particularly on the 3LCD models (as opposed to the SXRDs).

The engineer in me appreciates this detail.
I logical explanation to something I have always wondered about.

NW
post #3535 of 3633
Thanks for the great summary of this issue. I have been reading your website and appreciate the time you have put into the articles there.

My screen is uniformly blue during a Black 0 IRE field input from a test disk. at 10 IRE it is grey. I have not taken the time to step through the bottom 0-10 IRE to find out where the blue turns grey.

I think we are in agreement that a grey balance can be reached at some point. Depending on the sererity of the blue filter damage, determines at what level the colors come into balance. My thought is that since this may be a high illumination level, shutting down the IRIS will make the picture more natural even though the overall picture brightness is reduced.

I was looking for a technical discussion to see if anyone has found any other "band-aid" fixes while the OB continues degrading.
post #3536 of 3633
I have a question. I have a 60A2020 which I bought on Feb 2009. A problem started couple days ago where the the picture will go black for 20-30 seconds and the power LED blinks continuously and comes back. All the while, the sound is still on. After 2-3 minutes, this process repeats itself. The last couple of days, after 20-30 minutes, the TV goes back to normal. But today, the black screen has been going for over an hour. I'm still on the original bulb and was wondering if it is a bulb or could it be the board. Thanks.
post #3537 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by lausy View Post

I have a question. I have a 60A2020 which I bought on Feb 2009. A problem started couple days ago where the the picture will go black for 20-30 seconds and the power LED blinks continuously and comes back. All the while, the sound is still on. After 2-3 minutes, this process repeats itself. The last couple of days, after 20-30 minutes, the TV goes back to normal. But today, the black screen has been going for over an hour. I'm still on the original bulb and was wondering if it is a bulb or could it be the board. Thanks.

sounds like the bulb needs to be replaced
you don't always get message to indicate lamp replacement
post #3538 of 3633
I own a KDS-50A2020 and contacted the Social Media Advanced Resolution Team (Sony Listens - sonylistens@am.sony.com) by e-mail last evening (Dec. 29, 2011), detailing my failing optical block (w/ subsequent green haze over a majority of the screen). I attached pictures of both the screen and the sticker on the back.

Late morning today (Dec. 30)...i received an e-mail back denoting that Sony would like to offer me a replacement TV at a discounted price and to call a specified phone number to receive my offer. I was pretty ecstatic about this because i for sure thought the TV was out of warranty, and even the extended warranty that Sony offered for my TV.

The offers I received were for the KDL-46EX500 for $415 or the KDL-55EX500 for $675. I went ahead and accepted the offer for the KDL-55EX500 and sent in the appropriate paperwork for the new TV to be shipped (it is new, not refurbed). Additionally, i can still have the KDS-50A2020 repaired for about $250, should i want to keep it.

I should have the TV in time for the "super big game" and am looking forward to it. This is probably something I should have done a long time ago, but needless to say, i'm glad i finally did it, and that Sony was willing to "STILL" offer me a discounted TV.

I wanted to say that I appreciate all of the input on this thread and all of the helpful information gleaned from it. I doubt I'll look at or venture into this thread very often anymore, but I wanted to say thank you to everyone who has contributed and made this an effective thread for KDS-xxA2020 owners.
post #3539 of 3633
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrain View Post

I own a KDS-50A2020 and contacted the Social Media Advanced Resolution Team (Sony Listens - sonylistens@am.sony.com) by e-mail last evening (Dec. 29, 2011), detailing my failing optical block (w/ subsequent green haze over a majority of the screen). I attached pictures of both the screen and the sticker on the back.


Additionally, i can still have the KDS-50A2020 repaired for about $250, should i want to keep it.

What are you getting repaired for $250.? It doesn't sound like a "good" optical block for that amount.
post #3540 of 3633
My 50A2000 just developed the green blob on the right half of the TV. After reading about the replacement offers here, I called Sony and they offered me:

KDL46EX500 for $415.00 + local sales tax
KDL55EX500 for $675.00 + local sales tax

Compared to what others were getting, that seems high. I'm fine with an 55EX500, but I've seen some getting that model for less than $300. Has anybody called back at a later date (say after the 7 days the offer is valid) and gotten a different offer?
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