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JVC DLA-RS1 Owner's Thread - Page 283

post #8461 of 8724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronomy View Post

I still have the RS1u and love it. But if I were buying new I would consider the RS40. If you don't have the money an RS1 still rocks. Especially with a DVDO Duo or other processor that you can calibrate it with.

Used RS1 with old bulb will have a gray scale that is way off calibration too.

Ron

Thanks Ron, I think my biggest hesitation is knowing that an AT screen is going to run me some dollars and if I can "skimp" on projector price I would. The RS1 is in avs classifieds (bulb is at 350 hours) and the RS40 is just under 3x that price. I'm certain that when I finally decide NEITHER will still be available, lol. This is going to be a TV replacement and seating is between 6'-13.5' depending on where the screen will be placed (with the couches in their current layout) this can change (and as my wife's whims dictate...does ).

I really have no intention of additional processing but I don't know. We only watch on our 65" and have deemed xbox HD content "good enough" and even Netflix HD streaming "good enough" granted that is only on a 65" screen but in looking at THX calcs and some other calculators most say my screen should at most be a 100"...I (we) went into this thinking of 120" screens so looking at all of these, "you should get a 84" or 92" screen" ugh. So now I guess I'm focused on 100" and 106" screens but it seems in reading a lot of posts here that people have gone much larger than THX recs.

We aren't audiophiles hence the soundbar nor videophiles but we do prefer without question "better than SD quality".

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #8462 of 8724
The RS40 has adjustable IRIS so you can adjust the brightness and probably get most of that 50k to one contrast ratio with your short throw and 100 inch screen or smaller. The prices I see out there for the RS40 are surprisingly low. Less than what I paid for my RS1 3 years ago. Plus you get 3D capabilities!

Then again I don't feel I want 3D yet and my RS1 is calibrated with a Duo and still looks awesome so I don't plan to upgrade yet. If you get the RS1 you could probably sell it a year from now and not lose much money. You would probably be pretty happy with the RS1.
post #8463 of 8724
Quote:
Originally Posted by NavNucST3 View Post

Thanks Ron, I think my biggest hesitation is knowing that an AT screen is going to run me some dollars and if I can "skimp" on projector price I would. The RS1 is in avs classifieds (bulb is at 350 hours) and the RS40 is just under 3x that price. I'm certain that when I finally decide NEITHER will still be available, lol. This is going to be a TV replacement and seating is between 6'-13.5' depending on where the screen will be placed (with the couches in their current layout) this can change (and as my wife's whims dictate...does ).

I really have no intention of additional processing but I don't know. We only watch on our 65" and have deemed xbox HD content "good enough" and even Netflix HD streaming "good enough" granted that is only on a 65" screen but in looking at THX calcs and some other calculators most say my screen should at most be a 100"...I (we) went into this thinking of 120" screens so looking at all of these, "you should get a 84" or 92" screen" ugh. So now I guess I'm focused on 100" and 106" screens but it seems in reading a lot of posts here that people have gone much larger than THX recs.

We aren't audiophiles hence the soundbar nor videophiles but we do prefer without question "better than SD quality".

If you buy the RS1 make sure the seller secures the lens with the foam inserts that came with the projector.

Cheers,

Ron
post #8464 of 8724
I agree. If you can afford it, go with the RS40. Even if you don't need or want 3D.
post #8465 of 8724
I currently have my RS1 on craiglist here in Austin Texas as I am considering upgrading to RS40 for 3d with my 2:35 104" cih dragonfly screen and Dvdo vp50 processor but reading here this weekend, I have some issues with this 3d and vertical stretch. The Oppo 83 will only do vertical stretch on some 3d blu rays.

Ian B
post #8466 of 8724
I have been running my RS1 for about 2 years now and still love it.
I also recently saw one for sale for ~$1,200 - WOW, what a great value this used PJ has become.


(PS > Am running my RS1 stock with no additional calibration/processing hardware, I guess my eyes are not that fussy)
post #8467 of 8724
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

I have been running my RS1 for about 2 years now and still love it.
I also recently saw one for sale for ~$1,200 - WOW, what a great value this used PJ has become.


(PS > Am running my RS1 stock with no additional calibration/processing hardware, I guess my eyes are not that fussy)

You know, I have to agree with you. I think I'm going 2 years myself. It was during that refurbished sale that AVS had. It's still "refurbished" and still on the same lamp. And just yesterday, I had a friend ask me if I ever had it calibrated. I told him I really don't have a desire to because it looks that good. Will stay with this one until it passes away...
post #8468 of 8724
The color shifts as the bulb ages and is gradual and your eyes just get used to it. Once you get your first new bulb you will get a big WOW when you see how much more vibrante the colors are. Running your own calibrations just keeps the colors close to perfect through the life of the lamp. As long as you calibrate it regularly. Every bulb drifts out of whack differently too! Some may not drift as bad as others. My current bulb lost a lot of red and green in the first 100 hours. Picture looked way off but since then it has been rock solid. It hasn't drifted much in 500 hours which is really amazing for a bulb. At close to 900 hours now the bulb itself still looks like new. No deposits when looking into the bulb after a recent cleaning.

I was however able to get decent results using the projectors offsets to tame the excessive blue but dropping blue to minus 30 and adjusting the peak color temp with the projectors controls. Still looks far better after a real cal with my Duo using Chromapure and a chroma 5 pro color meter.

Ron
post #8469 of 8724
isdavinci,

We probably bought on the same AVS refurb./closeout offering (I think my purchase was 8/08?)

I am at about 1300 hours on the original bulb - to my eyes image looks great, just purchased bulb #2 as a backup). Will probably switch them soon and keep bulb #1 as an emergency backup.

Although on the other hand; the image is good enough I may run bulb #1 till it expires..?
post #8470 of 8724
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

isdavinci,

We probably bought on the same AVS refurb./closeout offering (I think my purchase was 8/08?)

I am at about 1300 hours on the original bulb - to my eyes image looks great, just purchased bulb #2 as a backup). Will probably switch them soon and keep bulb #1 as an emergency backup.

Although on the other hand; the image is good enough I may run bulb #1 till it expires..?

You should always start using a spare bulb right away! Bulb warranty is from date of purchase, not date of install.
post #8471 of 8724
About to list my RS1 here as I will be upgrading to RS40 this Friday. Pm me if interested. Perfect working condition in non smoking environment with 1560 hours on current bulb.

Ian B
post #8472 of 8724
Me too HD1 550 hrs on bulb. all original package.
PM me also
Tony
post #8473 of 8724
Where would be a good place to purchase a new bulb? Mine is around the 2k mark now.
post #8474 of 8724
Quote:
Originally Posted by KMR View Post

Where would be a good place to purchase a new bulb? Mine is around the 2k mark now.

Check this out.

http://www.amazon.com/BHL5009-S-PROJ...031133&sr=1-79
post #8475 of 8724
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmanhdtv View Post

You should always start using a spare bulb right away! Bulb warranty is from date of purchase, not date of install.

That's an excellent point. Thanks for the advice! Is the previous amazon link reputable?
post #8476 of 8724
That is an "equivalent" not same as OEM. AVS is a good place to buy the bulb from. It will cost a little over $300 but you can be assured that it work to specs.
post #8477 of 8724
I just ordered an RS40 as an upgrade from my RS1, which I bought on pre-order when it first came out. Just had the second bulb blow out at 2600 hours. It went super dim but still showed a picture and when I pulled it the bulb interior had a melted spherical bubble about the size of a nickel.

Threw the original bulb (700 hrs on it, dunno why I let the second bulb go so long) back in and saw the brightness double. Wow, almost made me cancel the RS40 order it looked so awesome! These are great projectors.

Anyways, seems like those looking for used RS1's will have their pick of several to choose from over the next month or so.
post #8478 of 8724
I upgraded to the RS40 as well. I have a fully calibrated HD1 with 2 bulbs. Backup has 1300 hours on it and the one in the projector has 1325. PM if interested.
post #8479 of 8724
I'm looking at used HD1s on ebay. What do I have to look out for when purchasing on of these units. I remember reading something about gamma declining over time, is that a big issue for example? Thanks for the help!
post #8480 of 8724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolme View Post

I'm looking at used HD1s on ebay. What do I have to look out for when purchasing on of these units. I remember reading something about gamma declining over time, is that a big issue for example? Thanks for the help!

Also "bright corners". The later ones pretty much got rid of this problem.
post #8481 of 8724
Coolme - I strongly recommend you pick up a VideoEQ if you can find a used one. Using this unit you'll have full gamma and color correction. These older units desperately need these controls and lack them unlike the newer models. The good news is that on the used market you should be able to pick both these up for much less than you would spend on a new JVC or comparable unit and still get great performance.

I use a VideoEQ PRO (same as std VideoEQ but with 4 stored profiles instead of just one) with my RS1x and it allowed me to create perfectly mapped gamma and color spaces for both SD (REC601) and HD (REC709) color spaces for both high and low lamp modes. Selecting each is as easy as using the buttons I created for each on my Pronto remote. The VEQ user interface is very easy to use. Just get a Xrite i1 probe and download HCFR and in an hour you'll be able to dial it in really well.

My setup is in a mixed use media room (white ceiling, light carpet, and only medium colored walls) so I don't miss the extra contrast offered by the newer units. As it is I don't think I can get the max out of this one at 15k:1. But using the VEQ my shadow detail and colors are awesome and so natural and that's what matters most to me.
post #8482 of 8724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug G View Post

Coolme - I strongly recommend you pick up a VideoEQ if you can find a used one. Using this unit you'll have full gamma and color correction. These older units desperately need these controls and lack them unlike the newer models. The good news is that on the used market you should be able to pick both these up for much less than you would spend on a new JVC or comparable unit and still get great performance.

I use a VideoEQ PRO (same as std VideoEQ but with 4 stored profiles instead of just one) with my RS1x and it allowed me to create perfectly mapped gamma and color spaces for both SD (REC601) and HD (REC709) color spaces for both high and low lamp modes. Selecting each is as easy as using the buttons I created for each on my Pronto remote. The VEQ user interface is very easy to use. Just get a Xrite i1 probe and download HCFR and in an hour you'll be able to dial it in really well.

My setup is in a mixed use media room (white ceiling, light carpet, and only medium colored walls) so I don't miss the extra contrast offered by the newer units. As it is I don't think I can get the max out of this one at 15k:1. But using the VEQ my shadow detail and colors are awesome and so natural and that's what matters most to me.

I'm onboard with the calibration hardware but adding the videoEQ is going to be out of my way and budget. If there's no way around it I think I might end up getting something different. I value ease of use. So if the HD1 is not a good option maybe the AE4000 or W6000 from Benq will suit me better.
post #8483 of 8724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolme View Post

I'm onboard with the calibration hardware but adding the videoEQ is going to be out of my way and budget.

Then look for a used Lumagen Vision HDP. They were going for around $400 last year. Probably cheaper now. Their CMS only handles primary color points, but they have 11 step gamma adjustment and lots of other stuff. They are a great bang for the buck.
post #8484 of 8724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolme View Post

I'm onboard with the calibration hardware but adding the videoEQ is going to be out of my way and budget. If there's no way around it I think I might end up getting something different. I value ease of use. So if the HD1 is not a good option maybe the AE4000 or W6000 from Benq will suit me better.

Me too I have colorfacts and calibrate things but I find there's no need for it with this projector. It looks great by itself, no circus look to the image it looks natural I like the colors. Plus you start tuning down the colors you're going to lose brightness/lumens. jmo everybody's different.
post #8485 of 8724
Quote:
Originally Posted by guitarman View Post

Me too I have colorfacts and calibrate things but I find there's no need for it with this projector. It looks great by itself, no circus look to the image it looks natural I like the colors. Plus you start tuning down the colors you're going to lose brightness/lumens. jmo everybody's different.

I have a DVDO Duo / RS1 combo. The green on these units is way out of alignment (much higher). Most of the other colors only have to be tweaked a bit. Taming the green improves the picture for my setup (much more natural). However, if you don't have a CMS, you are stuck with what the RS1 delivers (which is not too bad).... SJ
post #8486 of 8724
I'm looking for a used RS1, if anyone has one that they are selling, please contact me via PM
Thank you
post #8487 of 8724
I'm going from the RS2 (Pioneer Elite FPJ1) to an RS40. I will be selling my 200 hour RS2 for little more than an RS1.
post #8488 of 8724
Anyone brave enough to put a non-OEM lamp in their RS1?

At about 1000 hours mine started flickering again in low lamp mode. A couple 5 hour stints on high didn't really cure it like it had in the past. Ran it for 30+ hours (total, not all at once) in high and still flickering occasionally in low lamp mode. I fear the electrodes may just be too far gone at this point to ever use it in low mode again.

I'm not inclined to use a non-OEM, just curious if anyone else has since they can be had for less than half the price of a genuine OEM unit these days.
post #8489 of 8724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug G View Post

Anyone brave enough to put a non-OEM lamp in their RS1?

At about 1000 hours mine started flickering again in low lamp mode. A couple 5 hour stints on high didn't really cure it like it had in the past. Ran it for 30+ hours (total, not all at once) in high and still flickering occasionally in low lamp mode. I fear the electrodes may just be too far gone at this point to ever use it in low mode again.

I'm not inclined to use a non-OEM, just curious if anyone else has since they can be had for less than half the price of a genuine OEM unit these days.

I just tried the one sold on Amazon by Opto. When I ordered it it was $140, now it's up to $300. It measured at 208 lumens, 16 less than the bulb with 1300 hours it was replacing. I am returning it and will buy an OEM from Advanced Lamps.
post #8490 of 8724
Is your OEM lamp from Advanced Lamps made in Japan? Price is very reasonable.

Thanks.
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