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Samsung HLM507W getting no power

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
I've had a Samsung HLM507W since 12/2002 and it has been a great set. I've replaced the lamp twice, but no other issues. Over the last week I noticed a bit
more noise than usual, but not so loud that I was really concerned. Then yesterday when I powered on the tv, I thought I must have hit the power button twice. It made the normal chirp but then didn't come on. I thought that if I had hit the power button a second time right after the first time, maybe I immediately shut it off. The problem is that since then it won't power on at all. I unplugged the set and all cables and let it sit overnight and tried it again this morning. Still nothing. I tried changing the lamp assembly for my spare (that I know is good) -- nothing. I get no chirp, no blinking lights, nothing. It acts as if it is not getting any power at all. I suspected the fan assembly or color wheel since it was only a week ago that I noticed some noise, but I don't want to just start randomly buying parts without any idea what might be broken. Anyone have any ideas?
post #2 of 21
Thread Starter 
Am I really the first person to ever see this problem? No ideas from
others who have had a similar experience with their Sammy?
post #3 of 21
Glenn - Unfortunately I can't really offer any help, but I'm hoping that your experience may help me. As for your situation, is there a power supply in the TV that my have gone out?

I have the same model TV - HLM-507W. I've had to replace the lamp about once a year since early 2003. (I have a warranty, but it doesn't cover lamps of course.) I don't know how many hours each lamp has had. (I just learned how to check this.) However I've often thought that this is ridiculous as we don't watch *that* much TV.

Anyway, I'm curious about changing the lamp myself as I've had it done by a service technician before. The Samsung website says that you should not do this yourself for this particular model, but it can be done on other models. I know I can order the lamp, and you've obviously done this yourself. Do you know why they would recommend against this? Thanks.
post #4 of 21
Thread Starter 
I haven't been eager to take the TV apart to look for a PS, but on www.samsungparts.com they don't show a power supply, so it may
be a part of the PCB. I'm pretty close to calling for service or taking the
TV in to a repair center if it will fit in my car. I'm surprised that you are replacing a
bulb every year. Do you burn in the bulb when you first install it (leave the TV on for 24 hours)? I'm not sure if it helps, but I got a recommendation to do that and have done that for my bulbs and have gotten 2 years out of them with a lot of use. I have gotten about 4000 hours out of mine, which seems low compared to some values I have seen, but is probably a lot higher than you have been getting. I always replace it myself. You just remove two screws on the small plastic cover and then loosen two screws on the lamp assembly. It takes about 3 minutes, requires no effort and only costs about $150-$170 for a lamp assembly, which is probably less than a service call to your home. Don't be afraid to try it. It couldn't be easier for this model. Just make sure you get the correct bulb. I have one of the original sets (bulb ends with an A) and one company I ordered a bulb from took it upon themselves to change my order to a bulb assembly that ends with a C (also could be a J in the replacement model) and that connector won't fit my TV model. I'm not sure why they wouldn't ship what I ordered, but it proves that different versions of HLM07W can use different bulb assemblies, so always buy what you previously had.
post #5 of 21

www.samsungparts.com shows P/N BP94-00025A as the Power PCB. The price is $129.37. I don't know if that would solve your problem or not.

Not to ask the obvious, but have you tried turning on the set by it's power button, and not just from the remote?
post #6 of 21
Thread Starter 
I did try to power button on the set and also tried the reset "trick" of
unplugging the set, hitting the power button 3X (on the TV, not the
remote), holding the power button for 30 seconds, and then
plugging it back in. Glad to see that the power board isn't
very expensive, although if this isn't a common problem that
others have solved quickly, I am inclined to take it in or get
a house call to determine what is wrong. Even though I would
likely be charged $200 or more for labor as well as a mark up
on the part, I suspect I might save money over buying parts
that might fix it or might not. I already have 2 spare bulbs that
wouldn't fit any other TVs, so I'm not inclined to end up with lots
of spare parts without knowing what might be broken now or
become broken in the near future.
post #7 of 21
I understand not wanting to replace parts that may not fix your set.

I'm interested in how you make out with this, since I also have an HLM507W since 12/02. Our 507 has been fine, but has low hours on it.

Please keep us posted!
post #8 of 21
Thread Starter 
I'll give you a blow-by-blow as I try things just to keep the suspense building
on this problem. Since I get no lights and suspected the power supply, but wasn't ready to buy a power supply board without knowing that is the problem,
I got the crazy idea to open up the back of the set and look at the power supply board first. I wondered if it had a fuse on it that could be the problem. There is definitely a fuse, and while I can't say for sure if the fuse is blown, it looks odd. It looks like one side of the fuse may either be disconnected or discolored. I'm going to try to track down a T6.3AL 250V fuse (I learned my lesson long ago about getting one that is close, but not exact when I lit up a Pioneer receiver with an incorrect fuse) locally. That may fix it for a few bucks (crossing my fingers. If that doesn't work, I may stick a multimeter at various spots on the power supply board to check the circuits on it. It looks like it is a cheap 2 layer PCB, so it should be reasonably easy to test for open circuits.
post #9 of 21
Thread Starter 
I believe I have isolated the problem to a $1.56 part. I tested the fuse with a multimeter and it appears to be blown. Unfortunately, I couldn't easily locate a T6.3AL fuse near me, so I ordered some on line (had to order 4 to get to the minimum order value) and should have them next week sometime. Hope that fixes it. It would be nice to think that something so inexpensive will solve it. I may still need a color wheel in the not too distant future, but it is starting to look like the increased noise and the power failure are completely unrelated.
post #10 of 21
If the new fuse blows, you are not out a whole heck of a lot for giving it a shot.

It's worth a try.
post #11 of 21
Thread Starter 
Does anyone know if a failing color wheel or failing fan (or something else that causes a noticeable increase in noise, but not the shrieking that some have reported from color wheels) could cause a fuse in the power board to short out?
I know that power is getting to the board and if the board is unplugged from everything except the power cord, it doesn't blow a fuse, but if everything is assembled as normal, a fuse blows almost instantly. I power it on and hear no beeps or chirps but an immediate click at which point the fuse is blown.
post #12 of 21
GlennHealth, My HLN507W just died unexpectedly this morning (no indicating lights, no response, no nothing). I see where you just experienced a similar failure. I removed the back cover and found that the T6.3AL fuse was also blown. Being Sunday morning, I haven't had a chance to go to Radio Shack to see if I can find a replacement fuse. If not, where did you order your replacement fuses. I am also curious as to where you are with your troubleshooting. I'm worried that once I replace the fuse, it will blow again (like yours), and I could have bigger problems). Please keep me updated, and I'll do the same. Thanks.
post #13 of 21
Update: I replaced the fuse on the power supply board and upon powering up the TV, it immediately popped. So, this sounds exactly like the problem Glennhealth is having. Does anyone have any clues to what would cause this? I hate to spend a fortune on a service call, if it is something that I can repair/replace myself. My HLN507W is ~ 3 years old. I replaced the bulb for it several months ago, but really have had no other issues with this set. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
post #14 of 21
Thread Starter 

Haven't solved my problem and I ran out of fuses, so I haven't been able to do
any more troubleshooting until the ones that I ordered come in. Where did you find yours? Radio Shack? Frys?
Did you hear any louder than normal noise before your fuse blew? I'm thinking my problem might have been caused by a fan or color wheel that was starting to get noisier than normal. If something like that froze, maybe it could cause a fuse to blow.

post #15 of 21
Sorry I haven't back with you sooner. Radio Shack had these fuses in stock. I did more troubleshooting and narrowed the problem down to the power supply board P/N BP94-00087A. I ordered one of these (cost of $175) and it came in while I was gone. I replaced it last night and got my picture back. However, now I only get a blank screen when I have an analog input. The DVI input works fine. So, I'm going to have to open up the TV to see if I have all the connectors seated properly on the analog board. It had to be removed to get to the power supply board. I'll hopefully have an update later on today.
post #16 of 21
Update: I've pulled the back cover again and found a connector on the digital board (from the analog board that I had to remove earlier) not totally seated. Once I seated the connector and returned power, everything is back to normal. I'm finally watching TV again.
post #17 of 21
Good information leootis.

post #18 of 21
Thread Starter 
Can you provide more detail on how you troubleshot your problem down to the power supply board? I notice that if I power up the power supply board with no other connectors attached, I don't blow a fuse, but when I have everything connected and power it up, the fuse blows when I try to turn on the TV. I'm half tempted to just buy the power supply board, but if that doesn't solve it, I still have a non-working TV and am down more than $100, so I was hoping to find a way to troubleshoot mine first. Thanks.
post #19 of 21
I think I know your problem. Before I got too deep into troubleshooting, I bought the service manual for this TV online (you could download it as a pdf). It has a schematic of the power supply board. There is a relay on this board that is energized by an "ON" signal. Therefore, the fuse will not blow until this relay energizes. This closes the output contact to provide 120 VAC from the Line/Filter board onto the components on the power supply board. First, you have to remove the analog board to get to the power supply board. So, after removing power from the TV and pulling the cover, I disconnected all of the connectors from the analog board. Then I removed all connections from the power supply board and pulled it from the TV. On the back side of the PS board there was enough of the pins for the output relay contacts protruding through the board that I could connect a "mini-grabber" style jumper across the contact. With no other connections to the PS board, I then connected the PS board to the line/filter board (the cable from this board was long enough that I could set the PS board beside the TV). I then plugged in the TV and the fuse on the line/filter board immediately blew. This told me that the problem was narrowed to the PS board. I ordered my board online and got it in about a week. Note: I had previously talked with the local TV shop that works on these Samsung units and they wanted close to $600 to replace this board. So, I feel pretty satisfied now that this is all over. Let me know if I can help further.
post #20 of 21
Thread Starter 
A new power board fixed my problem also. Don't suppose you tried to locate the bad component on your original power board? It seems a shame to toss an expensive board when it probably has a $3 component that went out. I'd love to fix it and keep this board as a spare in case I have the problem again later. I got a little scared when I reassembled the TV and could not locate a cable that went to one of the two small 4 pin connectors on the analog board. I didn't remember unplugging it and could not see a loose end anywhere. I finally gave up looking and screwed everything back together and so far everything is working great. I then looked it up in my service manual and see it labeled as "not relevant". Guess I was just nervous about it for nothing. I hope that anyone else who has no power or fuses blowing finds this thread and has good luck as well. Thanks for all of your insight Leo.
post #21 of 21
Glad to hear that you got your TV working again. I have held onto the board that I removed, also. I didn't see anything obvious on it that was "smoked". I would like to repair it also, and keep as a spare. Let me know if you ever figure out what the bad component is. Thanks for all the help. Leo
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