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HT Room Decisions -Please Share Your Opinions

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
Hello:

I am in the process of deciding upon the creation of the Home Theater room in my home. The design of my family room does not allow for a TV much bigger then 42. I have a spare room that would allow for use as a HT. The room is 14.5 ft. x 19 ft.

I would appreciate and comments or advice on using this room as a HT as well as the orientation within the room of the screen and projector.

I have attached pictures below at various angles around the room.

As you can see, I have a large window on one wall (Window 1) with an uncovered window above it (this would need to be covered). This window-wall is opposite the blank wall where the previous owner must have had a TV (Blank Wall). This is the short axis of the room and viewing distance would be about 12 feet.

I also have closets along one wall with a shelf above them (Closets). The closets could be converted to a space for the AV equipment. I would remove the mirrored doors and replace them with either white doors or curtains. I could also place the projector on the shelf above the closets and save the ceiling mounting issues. Opposite this wall is a sliding glass door (Window 3). I was considering an electric screen that would lower to cover the sliding doors (in addition to the window treatments). This would orient the HT along the long axis of the room and have the added benefit of covering a light source when in use but allowing for a nice view when not in use.

I have also included pictures of the ceiling (Ceiling & Ceiling 3). The fan may be an issue. It could be raised about 1-2 feet if it was in the way of the projector. However, the shelf elevation is about a foot below the fan and I may be able to hit the screen without any interference.

Again, I appreciate any input you may have.

Thanks,

Splotto
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post #2 of 13
Thread Starter 
The other pics....
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post #3 of 13
Cool room Splotto,
You might want to deep six the fan as it may be distracting
even when not in use. It is sure to pick up stray light from the PJ. How high is
the ceiling directly above the sliders ? You will still want to treat the sliders for
light control as the screen will, in the down position, not block the light source
during daylight hours and the effect will compromise picture quality.
Less of an issue if you will only use the system at night.

Bill
post #4 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wcondon View Post

Cool room Splotto,
You might want to deep six the fan as it may be distracting
even when not in use. It is sure to pick up stray light from the PJ. How high is
the ceiling directly above the sliders ? You will still want to treat the sliders for
light control as the screen will, in the down position, not block the light source
during daylight hours and the effect will compromise picture quality.
Less of an issue if you will only use the system at night.

Bill

Bill:

The sliders are 6.5 feet with 32 inches from the top of the slider to where the ceiling starts.

I would have to add window treatments all around. The sliding shade is nice but it's beige and lots of light comes through.

You are correct about the fan. It might have to go. However, I can do that last after I try the setup with the fan.

Splotto
post #5 of 13
Hi Splotto,
What are your thoughts on speaker type and placement ? What about
wire runs to the speakers ? I assume, based on your location, that there is no
basement and it looks like there is probably limited or no access via the ceiling.
Looking at the pictures, am I correct in assuming that 3 of the 4 walls
are exterior walls and most likely block construction ?

Bill
post #6 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wcondon View Post

Hi Splotto,
What are your thoughts on speaker type and placement ? What about
wire runs to the speakers ? I assume, based on your location, that there is no
basement and it looks like there is probably limited or no access via the ceiling.
Looking at the pictures, am I correct in assuming that 3 of the 4 walls
are exterior walls and most likely block construction ?

Bill

Bill:

Correct on all counts. The closet wall, the slider wall and the window wall are all exterior and block. No basement.

However, I could run speaker wires in the ceiling and down the interior wall then under the carpet. I also am lucky enough to have a floor-zone carpet break in the threshold of the door so I could run all the wires under the carpet.

If I orient the viewing toward the sliders, most of the equipment will be behind me either in the closet of on the top of the shelf (rear surrounds). I have plenty of flexability there. I could also put the subs behind the seating so those wires won't be an issue. The front and center channels and the screen wiring are all that would need to be addressed.

Splotto
post #7 of 13
Splotto,
Seems as if the center channel will pose the biggest problem. Don't want
it on the floor in the middle of the sliders. Can't put it in wall above the sliders.
What are your thoughts on this ?

Bill
post #8 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wcondon View Post

Splotto,
Seems as if the center channel will pose the biggest problem. Don't want
it on the floor in the middle of the sliders. Can't put it in wall above the sliders.
What are your thoughts on this ?

Bill

Bill:

I didn't think of that!

One option is to put it in the ceiling. The other is to mount it ON the slider wall (vs. in the wall) above the screen housing.

Splotto
post #9 of 13
Splotto,
If we run the numbers for a common electric screen and housing, we'll
use the Lectric1 from Vutec as an example, this is what you have.


103" Diagonal Lectric1 in the open position-

Viewable screen area = 50.5" h x 89.75 w

Total width of housing= above w + 10.25" = 100" w

Height of housing = 6.1"
Length of leader = 12.0"
Screen Height = 50.5"
Bottom Black mask = 2.0"

Total height/Screen extended = 70.6"
Height of wall = 109.0"
Remaining available = 38.4"

You will need most of this space below the bottom of the screen for a
comfortable viewing height, assuming 1 row of seating. You wouldn't want the
bottom of the viewable area to be much less than 3 feet off the ground.
I'm interested to see what anyone else thinks about this.

Bill
post #10 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wcondon View Post

Splotto,
If we run the numbers for a common electric screen and housing, we'll
use the Lectric1 from Vutec as an example, this is what you have.


103" Diagonal Lectric1 in the open position-

Viewable screen area = 50.5" h x 89.75 w

Total width of housing= above w + 10.25" = 100" w

Height of housing = 6.1"
Length of leader = 12.0"
Screen Height = 50.5"
Bottom Black mask = 2.0"

Total height/Screen extended = 70.6"
Height of wall = 109.0"
Remaining available = 38.4"

You will need most of this space below the bottom of the screen for a
comfortable viewing height, assuming 1 row of seating. You wouldn't want the
bottom of the viewable area to be much less than 3 feet off the ground.
I'm interested to see what anyone else thinks about this.

Bill

Hello:

I wandered around my room tonight and I think that a good solution will be to mount the screen housing above the window (picture Window 1). Given the dimensions above I have plenty of room for 70h x 100h screen (even more). It also allows for me to use the ledge below the window for speakers, etc.

The screen will cover on of the windows and the housing may partially cover the arched windows above.

I can mount the projector on a shelf on the blank wall (see Blank Wall pic) which would be behind the viewing seats.

With this configuration, the screen would be about 16 feet from the projector and about 12 feet from the eyes of the viewer.

My equipment would be on my left behind curtains and the closet configuration would allow for easier wiring.

My main challenge would be getting wires behind the seats to feed the right surround speakers. It will not be a major issue.

I am getting pretty excited about pulling this project together.

Splotto



PS I brought a projector home from the office tonight. It's an InFocus X2. I set it up in my living room.

I used a standard Dell Laptop with a DVD drive, connected via S-Video to the InFocus. I projected the image on a textured beige wall with no screen.

The picture was MUCH better then I expected. More importantly it was much better then my wife expected. She is pricing chairs and popcorn machines now. :-)
post #11 of 13
re. The ceiling fan.


I have a ceiling fan in my HT and love it. Of course, I'd replace the fan you have. The one I have is all black and is whisper quiet. If it gets a bit warm in the room, I just hit the fan switch and the room instantly cools off. If you didn't already know it was there, you'd never notice it.
post #12 of 13
Splotto,
That orientation seems to be the better solution by far. With the
equipment behind you you will most likely want to use an RF translator to
allow control of everything in the rack. Don't forget to run a control cable to
the projector along with the video and electrical. Also a control cable to the
screen housing location for the motor. In the case of the Vutec type screen
you can put the motor actuator in the equipment rack and run Cat5e to the
screen housing for control.
Bill
post #13 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wcondon View Post

Splotto,
That orientation seems to be the better solution by far. With the
equipment behind you you will most likely want to use an RF translator to
allow control of everything in the rack. Don't forget to run a control cable to
the projector along with the video and electrical. Also a control cable to the
screen housing location for the motor. In the case of the Vutec type screen
you can put the motor actuator in the equipment rack and run Cat5e to the
screen housing for control.
Bill

Bill:

I am a big Harmony fan. I have a Harmony 890 universal remote now in my family room running everything with RF so I would go that route in the HT.

Splotto
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