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Samsung xx34, xx44, xx54, xx64 Series Plasma Thread - Page 9

post #241 of 8389
I'm a new Samsung 5054 owner as of yesterday. I was wondering why my SD looks better from a connection straight to my wall cable connection versus my Charter HD Motorola DCT5100 set top box. I tried both the component and DVI connections and I am not having much luck getting a good image. I'm not 100% thrilled with the SD, while it is tolerable, it will take some getting use to. I've notice certain channels depending on the show can be pixelated (perhaps this is normal?). I am coming from a 32 inch 4:3 TV tube which looked great. Charter communications does not offer a box with HDMI where I live (only DVI and they do not support DVI - claim it may or may not work).

With a TV like this, will I get a better image going to Direct TV or any other provider? Maybe I need to switch to a better provider?

One thing I did not pay attention to when the auto setup executed was the selections for analog and cable digital TV (STD, HRC and IRC selections). Perhaps once I connect the digital box I need to re-run the auto setup? I'm not sure the differences between these settings. All in all the TV looks ok, I just think it would be much better with better input.

Also, do most people turn these settings on or off:
DNIe
Digital NR
post #242 of 8389
Most observers on this site are not in favor of the digital nr being on. I keep mine off. The DNIe is more of a personal preference. You may find you like it or you may not. That is more of your own decision. I think in Movie mode it is auto deleted and can't be turned on. It is up to you if you like it on or off. I would definitely say turn off your DNR though.
post #243 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolGPS View Post

I'm a new Samsung 5054 owner as of yesterday. I was wondering why my SD looks better from a connection straight to my wall cable connection versus my Charter HD Motorola DCT5100 set top box. I tried both the component and DVI connections and I am not having much luck getting a good image. I'm not 100% thrilled with the SD, while it is tolerable, it will take some getting use to. I've notice certain channels depending on the show can be pixelated (perhaps this is normal?). I am coming from a 32 inch 4:3 TV tube which looked great. Charter communications does not offer a box with HDMI where I live (only DVI and they do not support DVI - claim it may or may not work).

With a TV like this, will I get a better image going to Direct TV or any other provider? Maybe I need to switch to a better provider?

One thing I did not pay attention to when the auto setup executed was the selections for analog and cable digital TV (STD, HRC and IRC selections). Perhaps once I connect the digital box I need to re-run the auto setup? I'm not sure the differences between these settings. All in all the TV looks ok, I just think it would be much better with better input.

Also, do most people turn these settings on or off:
DNIe
Digital NR

I'm facing the same PQ issue you are. I had a htpc as my tv source and it looks pretty good and SD channels. My Cox Motorola box spits out horrible looking quality. I'm strongly considering moving to Dish because of this...that and I despise the Cox program guide. MCE is light years ahead of it for PVR function.
post #244 of 8389
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolGPS View Post

I'm a new Samsung 5054 owner as of yesterday. I was wondering why my SD looks better from a connection straight to my wall cable connection versus my Charter HD Motorola DCT5100 set top box. I tried both the component and DVI connections and I am not having much luck getting a good image. I'm not 100% thrilled with the SD, while it is tolerable, it will take some getting use to. I've notice certain channels depending on the show can be pixelated (perhaps this is normal?). I am coming from a 32 inch 4:3 TV tube which looked great. Charter communications does not offer a box with HDMI where I live (only DVI and they do not support DVI - claim it may or may not work).

With a TV like this, will I get a better image going to Direct TV or any other provider? Maybe I need to switch to a better provider?

One thing I did not pay attention to when the auto setup executed was the selections for analog and cable digital TV (STD, HRC and IRC selections). Perhaps once I connect the digital box I need to re-run the auto setup? I'm not sure the differences between these settings. All in all the TV looks ok, I just think it would be much better with better input.

Also, do most people turn these settings on or off:
DNIe
Digital NR

Have you tried it with component cables?

I have an SA 8300HD DVR and the HDMI connection is useless-- (although I may just have a really horrible HDMI cable)... the component connection though is awesome.
post #245 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by brentsg View Post

Do others agree with this? Are these sets quiet?

Mine is quiet, if I can just figure out this power on picture problem.
post #246 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by oxfdblue View Post

Have you tried it with component cables?

I have an SA 8300HD DVR and the HDMI connection is useless-- (although I may just have a really horrible HDMI cable)... the component connection though is awesome.

Same here, same cable box and I found the HDMI was pretty poor. When I switched to the component cables the images were superb at least in HD. The SD channels are O.K. to good depending on the station. I got the HDMI cables for free from a neighbor who happens to be a Comcast employee. Maybe they were cheap?
post #247 of 8389
Ok. good point, my HDMI cable is very cheap. It is a DVI to HDMI cable from Amazon for like $10 (it had good review, but maybe that is my issue). I bought a better one today and will try it later tonight to see if it makes a difference. I did hook up component and managed to get a decent picture although, the lower analog channels are not quite as good as my straight SD connections. I think my Moto box was flaking out initially last night, but now it seems to doing component as expected (just not as good as SD from direct cable for me). I'm going to experiment with an amplifier/filter on my cable line.

I did turn off the DNR and this helped some as recommended. I just can't wait until all channels are mandated to be HD. It makes a huge difference.
post #248 of 8389
My 5054 is quiet as a mouse (no hum detected at all).
post #249 of 8389
I tried a much better HDMI cable and it was about the same (going back to the store). My component output is better than the HDMI performance. I'm guessing that the moto box I have just doesn't have good HDMI results (this is probably why Charter does not recommend connecting this way). I will still try the amplifer/filter thing too on the cable feeding the box.
post #250 of 8389
My 5054 is really quiet as well, my tivo and xbox fan is even louder
post #251 of 8389
Quick question for 4254 owners.

Do you have small black bars (about 4-6 pixels) remaining after using the wide mode to view 4:3 content?

I find that on some content, there is still a small amount of black left after stretching it. It's usually on the left side. I went to the store I bought it at and the display model did it too. It's not a huge deal, but I don't want burn in/IR even on the far left 4 pixels. It's not always there. I wondered about the pixel shift function, but turned that off and it's still there.
post #252 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by WSeattleGuY View Post

Quick question for 4254 owners.

Do you have small black bars (about 4-6 pixels) remaining after using the wide mode to view 4:3 content?

I find that on some content, there is still a small amount of black left after stretching it. It's usually on the left side. I went to the store I bought it at and the display model did it too. It's not a huge deal, but I don't want burn in/IR even on the far left 4 pixels. It's not always there. I wondered about the pixel shift function, but turned that off and it's still there.

Mine does this as well.
post #253 of 8389
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WSeattleGuY View Post

Quick question for 4254 owners.

Do you have small black bars (about 4-6 pixels) remaining after using the wide mode to view 4:3 content?

I find that on some content, there is still a small amount of black left after stretching it. It's usually on the left side. I went to the store I bought it at and the display model did it too. It's not a huge deal, but I don't want burn in/IR even on the far left 4 pixels. It's not always there. I wondered about the pixel shift function, but turned that off and it's still there.


Same here... a very, very thin line. So far, it hasn't seemed to be a problem as far as IR or burn in though.
post #254 of 8389
Anyone know about the "energy saving" feature? I don't see a difference in the picture if it's off, low, medium or high. Well maybe on high it's not quite as bright but not much difference.

Does this setting affect the picture much, what exactly does it do?
post #255 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by L_Bo View Post

Anyone know about the "energy saving" feature? I don't see a difference in the picture if it's off, low, medium or high. Well maybe on high it's not quite as bright but not much difference.

Does this setting affect the picture much, what exactly does it do?

Energy saver is basically like an LCD "backlight" control for the plasma, it adjusts the overall pictures total brightness. Adjust it according to the light thats present in the room. I have it off with no lights. High works good for bright rooms, the other settings in between are kind of useless IMO.
post #256 of 8389
I received my HP-T4264 this week and discovered I have two issues for which Samsung has arranged to send out a service tech.
Just Scan is disabled - the first service person I talked to said that this would work only with the QAM tuner. Well, I hooked it up to my Verizon feed (instead of antenna) but still no joy. The second person I talked to said (as it does in the manual) that this works for DTV signals but not for HDMI inputs( in contradiction with manual).


Not accepting 720P or 1080i input[u] - I just hooked up my Oppo 981 DVD player to the HDMI port and found that the TV is only displaying 480P. (A nice image, but it sure would be better at 720P)

Anyone else having these problems?
Except for these two problems, it's a nice set.

BTW - Does Just Scan do a good job eliminating the overscan in 16:9 mode?
post #257 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by trek2004 View Post

Just Scan is disabled - the first service person I talked to said that this would work only with the QAM tuner. Well, I hooked it up to my Verizon feed (instead of antenna) but still no joy. The second person I talked to said (as it does in the manual) that this works for DTV signals but not for HDMI inputs( in contradiction with manual).

I noticed this the other day as well. I had an OTA high-def channel on, and could not select Just Scan (even though the manual indicates it should be available). However, I usually use my D* tuner for OTA channels. Connected via HDMI, Just Scan works fine with it (and works well, I might add). So, I didn't get too worked up over it. Maybe a future firmware update will enable this feature.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trek2004 View Post

Not accepting 720P or 1080i input[u] - I just hooked up my Oppo 981 DVD player to the HDMI port and found that the TV is only displaying 480P. (A nice image, but it sure would be better at 720P)

I've got a Sony upconverting DVD player connected via HDMI. The TV has no problems accepting and displaying a 720p or 1080i signal from it. Not sure why you'd be having problems with the Oppo.
post #258 of 8389
What is "just scan" for and what's this overscan you are talking about?
post #259 of 8389
Overscan is the edge of the image that is cut off when displayed on the TV. Typically, 3 - 10% of the image may be missing on each side.

"Just scan" eliminates the overscan and displays the entire image on the TV.
post #260 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZippyBongHits View Post

Energy saver is basically like an LCD "backlight" control for the plasma, it adjusts the overall pictures total brightness. Adjust it according to the light thats present in the room. I have it off with no lights. High works good for bright rooms, the other settings in between are kind of useless IMO.

This feature adjust the power consumption of the unit in order to save energy
OFF- switches of the energy saving mode
LOW-operates in standard mode
MEDIUM-enters medium power saving mode
HIGH (dark room no lights)-enters maximum power saving mode, picture is darker
its all on page 53 in the manual

NO PUN INTENDED
post #261 of 8389
Newer/smaller vs. older/bigger
I'm debating between the T4254 and the S5033:
T4254: newer technology, more features, 15000:1 CR, 18-bit processing, 42", 1024 x 768
S5033: older tech, fewer features (but enough for me), 10000:1 CR, 50", 1366 x 768, ~$175 more

Usage: 70% TV (FiOS DVR (in 2-3 months?!)), 30% DVDs, 0% gaming; 10' viewing distance, mostly at night (controlled lighting); using DD 5.1 receiver (speakers are moot)

Any opinions whether bigger is better PQ than higher CR and # bits processing? Is it $175 better (~ cost of upconvert DVD player and HDMI cables)?
post #262 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by huskerpat View Post

I'm facing the same PQ issue you are. I had a htpc as my tv source and it looks pretty good and SD channels. My Cox Motorola box spits out horrible looking quality. I'm strongly considering moving to Dish because of this...that and I despise the Cox program guide. MCE is light years ahead of it for PVR function.

Hi all...1st post. Thanks for the help while I was lurking. Just got my 4254 last weekend. I'm running the DirecTV HD DVR through HDMI to the set, and optical to the HTIB. The SD quality I get is great, same as I get on my Sony HD CRT.

Of course, HD and upconverted DVD's are unbelievable!

No buzz, no pink...this set is great.

And I still have it on the break in settings...
post #263 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by FR0ST View Post

This feature adjust the power consumption of the unit in order to save energy
OFF- switches of the energy saving mode
LOW-operates in standard mode
MEDIUM-enters medium power saving mode
HIGH (dark room no lights)-enters maximum power saving mode, picture is darker
its all on page 53 in the manual

NO PUN INTENDED

I am aware of what the manual states, and guess what? As I stated before, it basically acts in the same manner as an LCD backlight. Even your own post shows that. You adjust it according to how much light is in the room.

So why did you even bother restating the obvious?
post #264 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by resnbl View Post

Newer/smaller vs. older/bigger
I'm debating between the T4254 and the S5033:
T4254: newer technology, more features, 15000:1 CR, 18-bit processing, 42", 1024 x 768
S5033: older tech, fewer features (but enough for me), 10000:1 CR, 50", 1366 x 768, ~$175 more

Usage: 70% TV (FiOS DVR (in 2-3 months?!)), 30% DVDs, 0% gaming; 10' viewing distance, mostly at night (controlled lighting); using DD 5.1 receiver (speakers are moot)

Any opinions whether bigger is better PQ than higher CR and # bits processing? Is it $175 better (~ cost of upconvert DVD player and HDMI cables)?

Dont waste your time on last years Samsung models. They were poor performers compared to the new units released.
post #265 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZippyBongHits View Post

I am aware of what the manual states, and guess what? As I stated before, it basically acts in the same manner as an LCD backlight. Even your own post shows that. You adjust it according to how much light is in the room.

So why did you even bother restating the obvious?

Just so other people have a reference where it came from and what it does.

Chris
post #266 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZippyBongHits View Post

The 4254 is a hell of a set.

Try these settings in a dark room with minimal TV backlighting, A Spyder2 was used for my calibration works well for HD signals and HDMI input:

Mode set to: "Movie"
Contrast: 75
Brightness: 45
Tint: 50/50
Color: 45

Color temp set to: WARM2

All the processing OFF(there is alot of it in both "Picture" and "set up" screens).
HDMI black level set to LOW.
Power Saving set to: HIGH


I can post detailed settings as well if people want their color that well dialed. Thats where I love the Sypder2.



Hell here it is in order from top to bottom:

Detailed settings:
Colorspace: Auto
Edge Enhancement: Off
Black adjust: off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Gamma: 0

WHITE BALANCE control:
This basically allows you to dial in your grayscale tracking on the lower(darker) end.
R Offset: 12
G Offset: 14
B Offset: 14

This basically allows you to dial in the upper end(brighter)of the grayscale.
R Gain: 0
G Gain: 20
B Gain: 30

How can I adjust the HDMI black level setting? It's always grayed out on my set and I can't change it from "normal."
post #267 of 8389
L_Bo, I like that stand, what company makes it?
post #268 of 8389
Hello to All: Just curious anyone use these things? Are they required/recommended? I use Monster HTS3500 power conditioner, so I'm guessing not, but just curious if any benefit to be gained or if required for possible warranty? Thanks for the insight
post #269 of 8389
Can't seem to find confirmation one way or the other online. Wondering if someone here knows the answer?
post #270 of 8389
hey everyone,

Been noticing on my 4254 that the staions seem to lose connections here and there. I just change channel and put it right back. Anyone else seeing this? I haven't really been watching much SD, so I don't know if it happens there. I see it on Digital OTA alot. No big deal, just sometimes annoying if I am laying down watching something and have to get up and find the remote to switch it back and forth between channels.
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