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Samsung xx34, xx44, xx54, xx64 Series Plasma Thread - Page 280

post #8371 of 8389
Thanks TripleM,

I was trying to turn Film mode on in the "Setup" menu screen but this is greyed out... I forgot is this ONLY applicable to Component connections??? ie not applicable to HDMI?

Thanks again
post #8372 of 8389
I was wondering if anyone can help me with my 4264, when I try to turn it on the screen does not come on and it makes a popping noise for about 5 seconds and it turns off. It will repeat this until I unplug it. I have had the tv for almost 2 years and already had the power supply replaced. I don't have a warranty on it anymore. Before I call, has anyone had luck getting Samsung to cover any charges if it is out of warranty and has had problems before?

Thanks for your help
post #8373 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by supra97 View Post

I was wondering if anyone can help me with my 4264, when I try to turn it on the screen does not come on and it makes a popping noise for about 5 seconds and it turns off. It will repeat this until I unplug it. I have had the tv for almost 2 years and already had the power supply replaced. I don't have a warranty on it anymore. Before I call, has anyone had luck getting Samsung to cover any charges if it is out of warranty and has had problems before?

Thanks for your help

Well, I guess the good news is that this problem is so common that corporate Samsung appears to be acknowledging it. Here's the corporate thread, sponsored by CNET:

http://forums.cnet.com/5208-13973_10...;forum-threads

It appears to be capacitors failing pretty regularly after two years, and some enterprising/brave folks are actually soldering in new capacitors with success. This thread is for LCD's, but I would bet that the issue is the same, since the symptoms are identical:

http://techreport.com/forums/viewtop...sd=a&start=270

Some, customers are so ticked about that they are going onto many of the new Samsung TV comment threads on Amazon and posting warnings and links, sure to get Samsung corporates attention (power of the Internet). The only way I can see Samsung resolving something this massive is to do the equivalent of an auto recall, than tout how "proactive" they are. Otherwise, their reputation and TV sales will go down the drain.

(I don't have this problem yet on my 5054, my set is two years old this month, we'll see.)
post #8374 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by sulli2p View Post

Well, I guess the good news is that this problem is so common that corporate Samsung appears to be acknowledging it. Here's the corporate thread, sponsored by CNET:

http://forums.cnet.com/5208-13973_10...;forum-threads

It appears to be capacitors failing pretty regularly after two years, and some enterprising/brave folks are actually soldering in new capacitors with success. This thread is for LCD's, but I would bet that the issue is the same, since the symptoms are identical:

http://techreport.com/forums/viewtop...sd=a&start=270

Some, customers are so ticked about that they are going onto many of the new Samsung TV comment threads on Amazon and posting warnings and links, sure to get Samsung corporates attention (power of the Internet). The only way I can see Samsung resolving something this massive is to do the equivalent of an auto recall, than tout how "proactive" they are. Otherwise, their reputation and TV sales will go down the drain.

(I don't have this problem yet on my 5054, my set is two years old this month, we'll see.)


Thanks for the info.
my 5054 just hit 2 years also.

I am staying away from Sammy's in the future. esp. since there are plenty of other plasmas with better build quality.
post #8375 of 8389
thanks for the info, sulli2p. I will get one of my friends to look at it. Samsung or the BBB said they could do nothing about my tv. I hope all you other owners have better luck than I did. I will never buy a Samsung tv again.
post #8376 of 8389
I am trying to setup my R-50 Remote to switch HDMI inputs on my HP-T5054 Samsung Plaama Tv. Is there a way other than having to hit the source button on the remote to finally reach which HDMI input i would like to use at that time? I am trying to have it setup my R-50 remote when i push HDMI1 it switches to my DTV and when i press HDMI2 it switches to my DVD player. Just wished there was away to direct select which HDMI input.

Thanks for any help you guys can give me.

JM
post #8377 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by JM2005 View Post

I am trying to setup my R-50 Remote to switch HDMI inputs on my HP-T5054 Samsung Plaama Tv. Is there a way other than having to hit the source button on the remote to finally reach which HDMI input i would like to use at that time? I am trying to have it setup my R-50 remote when i push HDMI1 it switches to my DTV and when i press HDMI2 it switches to my DVD player. Just wished there was away to direct select which HDMI input.

Thanks for any help you guys can give me.

JM

yes the samsung has descrete codes that will select individual inputs, like hdmi1, vga, hdmi2. Goto remotecentral.com and download the remote with the descrete inputs codes for your remote.s,
post #8378 of 8389
Just thought I'd chime in and support and old friend My 4254 plasma is still going strong, bought in September 2007. I still get compliments from friends who come over to the house about how great the picture is. My original Xbox360 just died so I broke down and bought the Elite and now have that hooked up to HDMI and it looks fantastic - a bit better than the VGA connection I was using before. I'm really hoping this TV lasts for some time to come, not because I don't want to buy a new one (a 50" would be perfect in our new home) but because the 4254 is so good.

As for settings, I've been using Movie mode for all 3 of my HDMI inputs (DirecTV, AppleTV, Xbox 360) and have adjusted as such. I did use the break-in settings posted here and then adjusted a tad bit afterward. It's amazing how I've noticed so many people do not calibrate their sets! I go over to a friend's house and find myself wanting to tinker with their settings. As for judder, I simply don't notice it's there anymore, unless I really am looking for it.
post #8379 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by soloredd View Post

Just thought I'd chime in and support and old friend My 4254 plasma is still going strong, bought in September 2007. I still get compliments from friends who come over to the house about how great the picture is. .

I am still enjoying my 5064 too

Sometimes I think about a 1080p judder free picture but on the other hand I HATE the artificial video looking processing thats default in the newer sets...

Yes STAY AWAY from your friends remote!!.... they are blisfully ignorant in their washed out TVHD crapola
post #8380 of 8389
Thought Id put this in here for people looking to repair a sound but no picture issue and for a future placeholder. I have no idea if this has been touched on before so forgive me if it has. 90% of the time it's a y buffer that goes out. It's usually the top buffer. 3/4 or more of the time the buffer takes out the y main board too. You cannot just replace the y-main or buffer because it will just burn out the other within seconds if one is bad. Also about 1/4 of the time it'll take out the top transformer on the power supply too. The solution? First disconnect the power to the y main board. turn on the television and check the voltages coming off of it. Careful it's high voltage 208V! Remember it's DC too. Then disconnect the buffers from the y main board. You can try powering the y-main up to see if the little LED lights up. This does not indicate it's working though but it'll tell you if it is possible to fix. The fixes for these boards is only for electronics guys. It usually involves replacing 1-3 capacitors and 1-4 FET's. Since a bad buffer can take out a good y main in seconds it's usually recommended that one replace all 3 boards at the same time. It's a $250 fix. How do I know all this? I've now repaired 5 of these televisions. I owned one and spent close to 600 repairing it. I bought misc parts and broken sets online for months before I had 2 different repair guys walk me through the process of repairing them. I had so much cash tied up in parts that I bought 3 more dead sets and repaired them to justify all my spending. I've never had an x board fail. I've had EVERY top buffer fail. I've had all but 1 y-mains fail. And only 1 lower buffer fail. I've also had the y buffer fry it's top chip, blow a capacitor and FET on the y-main, and fry the top transformer on the power supply before my eyes. It only took 5 seconds and had a loud bang. Replacement of the 3 y boards will almost always fix the sound but no picture problem. Cost for all 3? $250. Avoid used. If one board is bad it could burn out any good parts you have. Thats why the 3 boards come in kits. Check out New Zeland and England where these sets are much more common. Hope this helps!
post #8381 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by eecho789 View Post

Thought Id put this in here for people looking to repair a sound but no picture issue and for a future placeholder. I have no idea if this has been touched on before so forgive me if it has.

90% of the time it's a y buffer that goes out. It's usually the top buffer. 3/4 or more of the time the buffer takes out the y main board too.

You cannot just replace the y-main or buffer because it will just burn out the other within seconds if one is bad.

Also about 1/4 of the time it'll take out the top transformer on the power supply too.

The solution?
  1. First disconnect the power to the y main board. turn on the television and check the voltages coming off of it. Careful it's high voltage 208V! Remember it's DC too.
  2. Then disconnect the buffers from the y main board. You can try powering the y-main up to see if the little LED lights up. This does not indicate it's working though but it'll tell you if it is possible to fix.
  3. The fixes for these boards is only for electronics guys. It usually involves replacing 1-3 capacitors and 1-4 FET's. Since a bad buffer can take out a good y main in seconds it's usually recommended that one replace all 3 boards at the same time.
  4. It's a $250 fix.

How do I know all this? I've now repaired 5 of these televisions. I owned one and spent close to 600 repairing it. I bought misc parts and broken sets online for months before I had 2 different repair guys walk me through the process of repairing them.

I had so much cash tied up in parts that I bought 3 more dead sets and repaired them to justify all my spending.

I've never had an x board fail. I've had EVERY top buffer fail. I've had all but 1 y-mains fail. And only 1 lower buffer fail. I've also had the y buffer fry it's top chip, blow a capacitor and FET on the y-main, and fry the top transformer on the power supply before my eyes.
It only took 5 seconds and had a loud bang.

Replacement of the 3 y boards will almost always fix the sound but no picture problem. Cost for all 3? $250.

Avoid used. If one board is bad it could burn out any good parts you have. Thats why the 3 boards come in kits.

Check out New Zeland and England where these sets are much more common. Hope this helps!


Thanks for the the sound but no picture fix!.
Always great to see some1 come back & help out as these Sammies weren't given the best parts.

I formatted your post for easier readability & search.
post #8382 of 8389
Before recently I could just stick the coax straight from the wall into the Ant2 input on the back of my Samm5054 & let the QAM tuner do its thing.
I would get all the locals & some expanded channels in HD. The rest came through as SD.

I have Comcast expanded basic package (non HD) & because of the digital switch of 6/09, I have to get 1 of their free digital boxes to unencrypt their signal now.

I still want my locals in HD but their box compresses all the signal & no HD gets through.

So I used a splitter - 1 from the box into Ant2 (cable) & 1 into Ant1 (Air) on the 5054.

Clearly expecting to be able to use the QAM on Ant1 to get the unencrypted cable signal.

But it appears Ant1 doesn't provide a QAM tuner?
Ant2 (cable) definitely has the QAM cause I just tested it without the box.

So is this right: the 5054 doesn't provide a QAM tuner for Ant1 & I need to get a A/B switch & just feed the signal tho Ant2 (cable)?

UPDATE: SOLVED

Well I switched the 2 coax cables & got it to work.
Apparently my Ant1 DOES NOT have QAM built in, so I just stuck it with the digital box input & it broadcast those encrypted signal through there fine.
Stuck the non boxed cable into the Ant2 (cable) input & I am back in QAM HD heaven.

I guess I always thought the 2 RF inputs of this Sammy would have the QAM circuitry build in. My wrong.
post #8383 of 8389
I've had a Samsung HPT5064 for over a year. I have an Oppo DVD player with HDMI output only, connected to HDMI on the Samsung. All works well. However, recently (after over a year of working) the HDMI no longer works. I get "mode not supported" error. I've tried:

1. a new cable between the Oppo and Sammy - didn't help
2. the Oppo and its cable on another TV - works fine
3. another DVD player and a new cable on the Sammy - doesn't work

So the problem seems narrowed down to the HDMI port on the Sammy. I've seen many interent posting about a Samsung handshake issue, but no solution. I know there's a firware update, but this is for HDMI sound problems.

So:
1. has anyone found a fix to the HDMI handshake issue?
2. does the firmware update that Samsung offers also fix this problem? They say on the website no to install it if you don't have audio problems.
post #8384 of 8389
Hello! Hopefully I'm writing this in the right section and I apologized if I revived this thread from the dead. I recently acquired 5054 50" Samsung Plasma. But after few days, I was a victim of getting 2" wide black vertical line. I have tried soldering all the cold joints as well as adding more when it was needed. But unfortunately, it didn't work for me. So instead, I'm planning to buy a replacement board. My question is, while noticing the board itself, the cable seems to be locked with the board itself. Does anyone have any experience on taking it out or maybe even suggestion on fixing it? Any input would be great. Thanks!



post #8385 of 8389
Class Settlement here:
http://www.samsung.com/us/capacitorsettlement/

Plasma affected:HPT5034X/XAA; HPT5044X/XAA; HPT5054X/XAA; HPT5064X/XAA
post #8386 of 8389
Interesting,

Mine is still going strong Beautiful picture and heats my living room in the winter!! ( just checked... since 2007!! :0 )

Anyway I am just starting to think about replacing it with...yea another plasma since I hate the fake LED frame interpolation effect... will see if I get another Sammy or ???
post #8387 of 8389
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caribwoy2000 View Post

Interesting,

Mine is still going strong Beautiful picture and heats my living room in the winter!! ( just checked... since 2007!! :0 )

Anyway I am just starting to think about replacing it with...yea another plasma since I hate the fake LED frame interpolation effect... will see if I get another Sammy or ???

Mine too, it's on my son's bedroom and he loves it.
post #8388 of 8389
Me too. Love my set, picture continues to be awesome, had to increase the brightness recently, but probably running at maybe a 1/3 of the brightness this set is capable of, lot's of life left, and no capacitor problems. And yes, it is a heat generator, nice in the winter, not so nice in the summer. I am planning on hooking up the new Kindle HD with HDMI out, this winter. Will be interesting to see how it looks.

Have tried to use PIP, displaying my PC output using the VGA port, with digital over the air channels, but it only handles analog channels. I didn't buy this set for PIP, but with such limitations, why did they even bother, I'd be surprise if one single customer is using PIP regularly on this set.
post #8389 of 8389
Mine is going strong as well but I'm looking into this class action thing. The flicker was and continues to be an annoying problem.
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