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2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 339

post #10141 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV View Post

Very little difference in brightness going from 56" to 61". As long as you are pretty much sitting right in front of the display 8 feet back is ok, as you will note several other people have said they were OK with the 6187s placed 8 feet away.

The xx89s series offers HDMI 1.3a, bluetooth, PIP, xyVCC, and a all black frame design, no silver area by speakers compared to xx87s series.

Thank you! The only thing I feel I'm missing out on is the xyVCC and HDMI 1.3a to future proof myself. Best Buy doesnt carry the 89 series so I'm stuck. Is there anyway to upgrade to these later with my TV?
post #10142 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecopp062 View Post

I am new to this site and I am wondering if anyone can tell me were on the web I can find the firmware updat for my 6187s thank you

Is there something wrong with your set that you think will be fixed with firmware?

Justin
post #10143 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV View Post

They have a tech note on what to do if your display has a halo, but there is no recall in effect.

In the most technical sense of the deal, yes, its a TSB. They are not going to run out and pick up every set to replace the cradle. They are waiting for owners to call in and gripe. Then you have to prod them to get the info.
Anyway, the set is back and the blue artifacts are gone.
One other Q: is there a convergence adjustment, either user or factory adjustable?
post #10144 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by kartographer View Post

My HLT5687SAX is schedule to be deliveried of 2/12, I also have a Philips DVP5982 1080p Upscaling DVD Player on its way. Other than a surge protector what should I go ahead and get now so I will be ready to set this thing up? BTW I have Comcast Cable.

I put a power conditioner on all of my AV stuff.
post #10145 of 14848
I ordered mine in April of last year . One happy owner here But as a reminder to others in similar position - the manuf wty also runs out, so if you still have small things to take care of, do it while it is free.

A week or 2 after receiving the set, I bought an extended 3Y plan for $140 or something like that, from Mack and it is a good, reputable deal.
post #10146 of 14848
One more thing.....
The service Tech told me that if you lose one color on this set, shut it down immediately. They have found a bad LED connection here and there. When it goes and if you don't shut down the set, you'll get a very smelly, smokey situation in your room. Nothing will burn down, the set won't catch fire, but you'll think it is. Its an easy fix. Its comparable to a cold soldier joint.
post #10147 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by wdreamsmaycome View Post

this is really frustrating: first of all my TV also had to be fixed for the 'blue halo' problem, during my 'halo' request I mentioned the second problem I am having with my set, which is a noticeable off-white line in the middle of my screen visible in dark scenes but completely absent in bright ones. (it's as if some mirrors in the dlp chip did not 'close' completely when they are supposed to go completely 'off') see the picture attached for more.

During the repair for the blue halo the tech took pictures of the issue and said that it looked like a light engine issue and said a light engine replacement was going to be on its way.

After a couple of weeks my tech center scheduled a second visit because apparently somebody at Samsung told them that this problem didn't make sense, so he once again disassembled the tv, shone a flashlight in the optical block to make sure it wasn't causing issues, tried several other things, took again pictures and said that for sure a light engine replacement is the only way forward.

I have called my repair centre once again today and they told me that somebody at Samsung decided that the light engine is ok, and instead the optical block needs to be replaced: this does not seem at all an issue with the optical block at all, the line is visible only in dark scenes, not in bright scenes, if it was something on the lens it would be visible all the time! Not to mention that the tech took the light block out, shone a flashlight through it and verified that there is nothing preventing the light from going through. Not to mention that every time the tv is taken apart and put back together the focus and geometry keep getting worse (especially the focus, where currently the bottom-right half of the tv is noticeably soft, not nearly as sharp as when I got it). Having the technician telling me that focus can not be adjusted (which is wrong, as there is a focus ring on the light assembly and the DMD board can be tilted as well as far as I know) is not very reassuring either.

I am really not sure what to do now, I have sent email to samsung, called my tech, but I am not sure: my retailer is washing their hands because their extended warranty 'covers problems AFTER the manufacturer's warranty expires' and so I can't get the tv exchanged at all (since months have passed while the above happened).

I also am not sure how I can get my focus back to where it was, the top left corner is perfect and pretty much all the way to the middle of the screen, but the bottom right corner from about 1/3rd away is a lot softer than the rest: I don't think it was this soft when I first bought it, but likely all this opening and reassembling of the light engine parts might not have helped...

I am having a similar issue with my tv. Except I see almost a blue haze that runs across the entire tv. The room has to be dark and with a dark scene it is clear as day (I use an all black image from the test patten zip). The problem is noticeable in regular viewing when a dark scene is up. The first time i saw it was playing PS3 in a totally dark room when the playstation logo comes up.

After two service visits they have replaced the Light Engine, Main PCB and Power Supply. There isn't too much to do now. I also had my machine calibrated before the issue popped up and that cal is now wiped... Needless to say i'm not happy. PQ has gotten worse after each service visit also. Hopefully there will be a new TV here soon...
post #10148 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by kartographer View Post

My HLT5687SAX is schedule to be deliveried of 2/12, I also have a Philips DVP5982 1080p Upscaling DVD Player on its way. Other than a surge protector what should I go ahead and get now so I will be ready to set this thing up? BTW I have Comcast Cable.


I just got this same setup, but the 50'' model, and I assume you are getting it from Amazon too. Just don't forget the HDMI cables. I got mine from monoprice and I'm happy with them.
post #10149 of 14848
I've had the TV now for about 2 months, and I love it.

There is a few minor things that are there, but nothing major.

I do have the )))))((((( thing on the buttom part of my tv. but it can ONLY
be seen if I'm about 2ft away from the tv and looking at it. Honestly, no one
has noticed it intill I've pointed it out. I did however notice it even before
reading it in this thread. Also, just with my ps3, I get the flickering which
only happens in dynamic setting. It's a very small flicker that happens on dark
objects, but goes away if i switch to Standard or movie modes. I havn't
played with the settings but it only happens with the ps3. 360 (Composite), cable (hdmi), PC (HDMI) does NOT do it.

Otherwise fantastic tv, I just wish the IR reciever was not located
in the center. I have my center speaker there and it's a pain to turn it
off sometimes.
post #10150 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALTSean View Post

I just got this same setup, but the 50'' model, and I assume you are getting it from Amazon too. Just don't forget the HDMI cables. I got mine from monoprice and I'm happy with them.

As a newbie please bear with me, but it seems that opinions of which HDMI cables to get are all over the place. To be honest I my 5687SAX is my first HD TV. I have presently an old 1996 model RCA 46" CATV projection tv, so I am not a 'cutting edge' kind of person and face it the improvement is going to be dramatic no matter what.

Personal I don't care if I can tell if something is vanilla white or navjo white on my set, just as long as I get a crisp, clear, clean picture. I will be very happy. So that said what should I look for in my choice of HDMI cables?
post #10151 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by kartographer View Post

As a newbie please bear with me, but it seems that opinions of which HDMI cables to get are all over the place. To be honest I my 5687SAX is my first HD TV. I have presently an old 1996 model RCA 46" CATV projection tv, so I am not a 'cutting edge' kind of person and face it the improvement is going to be dramatic no matter what.

Personal I don't care if I can tell if something is vanilla white or navjo white on my set, just as long as I get a crisp, clear, clean picture. I will be very happy. So that said what should I look for in my choice of HDMI cables?

It sounds like monoprice.com is just what you want them because you can get an HDMI cable, depending on length, for about $6 compared to around $75 to $100 for a Monster cable at Best Buy or CC.
post #10152 of 14848
I'm trying to setup my remote for a comcast Scientific Atlanta HD8300 DVR/HD cable box and the codes from the manual, "042" and "043" do not work. Does anyone know a code that works?
post #10153 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by kartographer View Post

As a newbie please bear with me, but it seems that opinions of which HDMI cables to get are all over the place. ... So that said what should I look for in my choice of HDMI cables?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ALTSean View Post

It sounds like monoprice.com is just what you want them because you can get an HDMI, depending on length, of about $6 compared to around $75 to $100 for a Monster cable at Best Buy.

The consensus in this AVS Forum is that expensive "premium" HDMI cables are not worth the extra money. Most of us side with ALTSean's comment to skip the Monster and go with a good generic like Monoprice.com.

That's what I did and I'm very pleased with the quality, performance and price of all of their cables.

Avio
post #10154 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonry10 View Post

One other Q: is there a convergence adjustment, either user or factory adjustable?

no, single chip dlp's don't have convergence problems.
post #10155 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALTSean View Post

I'm trying to setup my remote for a comcast Scientific Atlanta HD8300 DVR/HD cable box and the codes from the manual, "042" and "043" do not work. Does anyone know a code that works?

I have the same set top box with an Atlas remote, the following code works for me 0812.
post #10156 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonry10 View Post

In the most technical sense of the deal, yes, its a TSB. They are not going to run out and pick up every set to replace the cradle. They are waiting for owners to call in and gripe. Then you have to prod them to get the info.
Anyway, the set is back and the blue artifacts are gone.
One other Q: is there a convergence adjustment, either user or factory adjustable?

That's true with all display vendors.

Good that the display has been serviced to your satisfaction.

As mentioned earlier with a single chip DLP you don't have convergence adustments, however all Samsung LED DLP displays have a service menu where you can adjust the geometry. Unless you are quite experienced with such adjustments, I would advise you to leave any service adjustments to an ISF-certified technician or a Samsung-approved repair person.
post #10157 of 14848
I am done with Samsung.
This is my third DLP in 2 years
the first one, a HL-S5087 was great but the screen geo. at the foot was off a bit
then
the light engine croaked,
then the bulb died agter 6 months
so Samsung replaced it with a HL-t5076
This was the worst HDTV I have ever seen, walking across the room would throw of the screen geo.
So Samsung gave me my money back.
I then bought my current HL=T5087
BAD screen geo at the head, about a 1/4" + on the left, and 1/8"+ on the right, not to mention a very noticable purple halo during high contrast scenes.
I called for repair in OCTOBER and they never showed up after e-mails, and pictures, and phone calls.
I finally got Samsung to send someone else and they showed up the second week in Jan.
The repairmen said that he needed to order parts.
So far no follow up. When I call Samsung, they say my case has been refered to the regional Service Engineer.
I know I am going to get scre&$ here.
I never should have bought this set, and NEVER will buy ANYTHING from Samsung again.

In fact I plan on calling the AG's office MA.
If you are cruising this board, and thinking of a Samsung DLP, DON"T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The issues I am having with this set are obvious, and clearly visible to anyone.
They are documented problems, Samsung has acknowledged these issues.
I think they are trying to cut their loses from bad DLPs and walk away.

I am rambling now , but I have been far more than patient, this is absurd bordering on criminal.
post #10158 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by s.hasenauer@veri View Post

I am done with Samsung.
This is my third DLP in 2 years
the first one, a HL-S5087 was great but the screen geo. at the foot was off a bit
then
the light engine croaked,
then the bulb died agter 6 months
so Samsung replaced it with a HL-t5076
This was the worst HDTV I have ever seen, walking across the room would throw of the screen geo.
So Samsung gave me my money back.
I then bought my current HL=T5087 BAD screen geo at the head, about a 1/4" + on the left, and 1/8"+ on the right, not to mention a very noticable purple halo during high contrast scenes.
I called for repair in OCTOBER and they never showed up after e-mails, and pictures, and phone calls.
I finally got Samsung to send someone else and they showed up the second week in Jan.
The repairmen said that he needed to order parts.
So far no follow up. When I call Samsung, they say my case has been refered to the regional Service Engineer.
I know I am going to get scre&$ here.
I never should have bought this set, and NEVER will buy ANYTHING from Samsung again.

In fact I plan on calling the AG's office MA.
If you are cruising this board, and thinking of a Samsung DLP, DON"T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The issues I am having with this set are obvious, and clearly visible to anyone.
They are documented problems, Samsung has acknowledged these issues.
I think they are trying to cut their loses from bad DLPs and walk away.

I am rambling now , but I have been far more than patient, this is absurd bordering on criminal.

For informational purposes the first display was a HL-S5087 (bulb DLP), the second DLP was a HL-t5076 (another bulb DLP), and your third DLP a HL-T5087s actually relates to this topic.

Concerning "I then bought my current HL=T5087 BAD screen geo at the head, about a 1/4" + on the left, and 1/8"+ on the right, not to mention a very noticable purple halo during high contrast scenes" all of that could be taken care of by a normal service visit.

My assumption is that you live in a area where Samsung doesn't have a contracted service provider, and they are having problems arranging a contract service provider to service your display. The normal process would be getting a case # and regularly calling Samsung to get a ETA when they could perform this service.

BTW did you correspond with Samsung by mail? Did you get a written responses either mail or email on why they couldn't service your display? Could you not have communicated with the store that sold you your display to find out if they could be of some help? Saying that Samsung has purposely hung you out to dry is unrealistic.
post #10159 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by s.hasenauer@veri View Post

I am done with Samsung.
This is my third DLP in 2 years
the first one, a HL-S5087 was great but the screen geo. at the foot was off a bit
then
the light engine croaked,
then the bulb died agter 6 months
so Samsung replaced it with a HL-t5076
This was the worst HDTV I have ever seen, walking across the room would throw of the screen geo.
So Samsung gave me my money back.
I then bought my current HL=T5087
BAD screen geo at the head, about a 1/4" + on the left, and 1/8"+ on the right, not to mention a very noticable purple halo during high contrast scenes.
I called for repair in OCTOBER and they never showed up after e-mails, and pictures, and phone calls.
I finally got Samsung to send someone else and they showed up the second week in Jan.
The repairmen said that he needed to order parts.
So far no follow up. When I call Samsung, they say my case has been refered to the regional Service Engineer.
I know I am going to get scre&$ here.
I never should have bought this set, and NEVER will buy ANYTHING from Samsung again.

In fact I plan on calling the AG's office MA.
If you are cruising this board, and thinking of a Samsung DLP, DON"T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The issues I am having with this set are obvious, and clearly visible to anyone.
They are documented problems, Samsung has acknowledged these issues.
I think they are trying to cut their loses from bad DLPs and walk away.

I am rambling now , but I have been far more than patient, this is absurd bordering on criminal.

Sounds more like your service center is the one you should be hating, not Samsung.
post #10160 of 14848
Hi to all in this thread, I'm a newbee also. I have the HLT5687sax Got it from HHGregg, they beat Amazon's price and package so I did not have to wait for delivery, that was pretty cool I just went in to look at stands and conversation took off and low and behold saved about $100 over all for total package not even tax. I was happy.

Anyway, I have none of the issues or a hint of those discussed in this thread and elswhere. I'm hooked up with DishNetwork HD DVR 622 and HD programing is fantastic, everything I hoped for, I use the Dynamic mode for me and I like it, and tried to do some settings on movie mode and got it close to real good but still like Dynamic, probably just personal taste.

One thing though is when I set up from the sat. rec. I use 1080i or 720p and really can't tell any difference on HD programing any thought or what others set it to.

I've heard that 720p progressive scan is better in general than 1080i interlaced.

I know this is not the thread for this, just wondering if anyone has some comments on there experience with this and this particular DLP set. Oh one other thing HDMI from sat. rec. to TV with toslink from TV to yama. surround sound also samsung HD 870 HDMI to TV and that looks great and sound fantastic.......

I'm a happy consumer

Mitch
post #10161 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgainer View Post

Hi to all in this thread, I'm a newbee also. I have the HLT5687sax Got it from HHGregg, they beat Amazon's price and package so I did not have to wait for delivery, that was pretty cool I just went in to look at stands and conversation took off and low and behold saved about $100 over all for total package not even tax. I was happy.

Anyway, I have none of the issues or a hint of those discussed in this thread and elswhere. I'm hooked up with DishNetwork HD DVR 622 and HD programing is fantastic, everything I hoped for, I use the Dynamic mode for me and I like it, and tried to do some settings on movie mode and got it close to real good but still like Dynamic, probably just personal taste.

One thing though is when I set up from the sat. rec. I use 1080i or 720p and really can't tell any difference on HD programing any thought or what others set it to.

I've heard that 720p progressive scan is better in general than 1080i interlaced.

I know this is not the thread for this, just wondering if anyone has some comments on there experience with this and this particular DLP set. Oh one other thing HDMI from sat. rec. to TV with toslink from TV to yama. surround sound also samsung HD 870 HDMI to TV and that looks great and sound fantastic.......

I'm a happy consumer

Mitch

I would keep your stb set to output 1080i since the deinterlacing of 1080i to 1080p is simpler and should result in a slightly better image than upconverting 720p to 1080p.
post #10162 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by mgainer View Post

... One thing though is when I set up from the sat. rec. I use 1080i or 720p and really can't tell any difference on HD programing any thought or what others set it to.

I've heard that 720p progressive scan is better in general than 1080i interlaced.

I know this is not the thread for this, just wondering if anyone has some comments on there experience with this and this particular DLP set. ...

I'm not positive I'm understanding your question correctly but... If your video source (sat. rec.) outputs 1080i to your 5687SAX you can select "Just Scan" using the P.SIZE button on your remote. Just Scan is 1:1 pixel mapping and provides a sharper picture. The Just Scan option is not available in 720p.

Avio
post #10163 of 14848
I have been using component cables for the last couple of months. Today I got my HDMI cables from monoprice and when I hooked them up I notice that I am getting a 3-4 second delay when switching inputs or turning the set on. I didn't have any delay. when using the component cables. When I switch (or turn the tv on) I get the "No signal" message for a few seconds. Is this normal or do I have bad cables or wrong setup?
post #10164 of 14848
Ok guy's got that. Sounds good to me.

Thanks,

Mitch
post #10165 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by hiyman View Post

I have been using component cables for the last couple of months. Today I got my HDMI cables from monoprice and when I hooked them up I notice that I am getting a 3-4 second delay when switching inputs or turning the set on. I didn't have any delay. when using the component cables. When I switch (or turn the tv on) I get the "No signal" message for a few seconds. Is this normal or do I have bad cables or wrong setup?

This is normal.

Welcome to the wonderful world of HDMI and HDCP!

You are experiencing "handshaking" where the HDMI protocol negotiates a connection and checks to make sure all is in compliance with the law (no copying or pirating here) before it gives the go ahead. ...and they call this progress!

It's sort of like "Plug N Play" ... or Plug N Pray!

Avio
post #10166 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinHEMI05 View Post

Is there something wrong with your set that you think will be fixed with firmware?

Justin

Not at all. Haven't gotten the TV yet. Just want the information, so I can be ready if I need the update.
post #10167 of 14848
So what is "judder" exactly? Sorry for the newb question, just want to know what to look for? I'm using my new Panny BD30, the 6187SAX (w/FW 1008) info shows 24Hz - I don't see any issues, it looks and runs flawlessly, unless I don't know what I'm missing that is...this tv is incred, I'm luvin' it. =)

post #10168 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schils View Post

So what is "judder" exactly? Sorry for the newb question, just want to know what to look for? I'm using my new Panny BD30 and the 6187SAX info shows 24Hz - I don't see any issues, it looks and runs flawlessly, unless I don't know what I'm missing that is...this tv is incred, I'm luvin' it. =)

Nice to see that the Panasonic BD30 runs 1080P/24hz on the Samsung. Is it using version 1.5 firmware? Looks very good by that picture.
post #10169 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV View Post

Nice to see that the Panasonic BD30 runs 1080P/24hz on the Samsung. Is it using version 1.5 firmware? Looks very good by that picture.

Wow, in all the excitement with the new gear, I never even checked the BD30 FW - get this, its working fine right now with only 1.2!!! I just hit their site to grab the latest, seems to be 1.4...will report back after I've updated but I'm almost certain now all will be fine. =)
post #10170 of 14848
Shoot, if you're currently happy AND getting 1080p/24hz to work just fine I would leave well enough alone. Some people seem to make a fetish of having the latest firmware. I understand the urge to keep everything updated but with all the problems people have getting everything to play nicely and have full functionality, is it worth the risk?

If it ain't broke...
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