2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 364

Just got the call from Eagle.

Ordered on Monday, set to deliver on Friday!

Man I have a lot of furniture to move in the next 2 days.

I havn't had time to purge this thread, so not sure if anyone else is having trouble with HLT5687S but.....

today my set "reset itself" (like someone recycling the power), but when it came back on the picture was gone. Im still getting sound, can change input, but screen is completely blank. gOing back to Fry's to see what they can do about it... set is appx 6mnts old.

Wow! That sounds surprisingly like the document I wrote and made available to everyone for free in this tread.

Here's my original post with the link to the document.

Too bad I won't make any money from their sales

I checked the build on my hlt-6187S set.. it says August 2007.. from previous discussions it was speculated that august onward were 1.3a.. any new news on this?

I'm trying to decide whether to go with a 1.3a capable receiver (HDMI) or go for a less expensive 1.1 or 1.2 etc...

Cheers

Haha - look closer. That POS surge protector has only three things plugged into it - the cable modem, router, and my phone. The good protector with all the real equipment plugged into it in hidden behind that.

Hey ML, Do you know that if the lens is not put back with the black painted edge on top as you indicate in Step 5, if it will cause the alignment issue I'm dealing with where the picture has shifted to the right a good 2 inches? They (the tech) are coming back on Monday so I guess I'll find out but I'm just curious. It's always good to have as much knowledge as possible when these guys come out, especially considering he didn't seem too enlightened to begin with.

That would be a welcome surprise! Then again, my SAX having given me 24p makes me think theres a possibility for the 1.3 as well, maybe Samsung started including some 08/better features in the late 07 models and simply doesn't wan't to piss folks off, so they can't and won't ever officially acknowledge this...if it were the case, I'd be 1.3 compliant all the way across with the receiver, Blu-Ray player AND display...if only!

Well i just got both the 50 and 56 87s in today... both look great right of the bow. have not notice and of the problems that i have read here so far. the build date are both from 1/08 but i can not seem to locate the firmware version...
i tried doing the following...

"To check your firmware version, here are the instructions:

1. Turn on your TV.
2. Press the MENU button on your remote.
3. Select SETUP, and then press ENTER.
4. Select Function Help, and then press ENTER.
5. Use the Up or Down arrow button on your remote to move down to Function Help to ON, and then press the ENTER button.
6. With Function Help ON highlighted (don't actually push ENTER on it), press the INFO button on the remote. Your firmware revision will be listed as two lines of information. The TOP line is your software firmware. The BOTTOM line is the hardware revision number."

but all i get is the input source and the time, what gives? this happens on both tvs

Sounds good. I found this from a website and posted it here. Whatever it takes to guide people to help them. All information that is on the net is free for the world to share. This is not a college exam.

Good one, my eyes are failing me, but I wanted to make sure.

The lens looked pretty symmetrical to me, so I doubt that this could cause the problem. It's more likely that something isn't seated properly. If everything was seated properly when reassembled, it's unlikely that you would get so much of an alignment problem.

The problem could possibly (but again, not likely) be related to the adjusting screws that I described here.

Note that picture alignment can be adjusted from the service menus to a greater extent than can be done from the user picture menu "position" setting.

I gave them a try and for me, it takes away the "pop" that my prior settings had (they're posted back somewhere in this thread.... now I need to go find them since I forgot to bookmark them... LOL).

Thanks for posting them regardless.

Usually more then enough. Unless you are living in a area with frequent power interuptions, and lights flickering occasionally using a expensive power conditioner doesn't buy you anything except you know some sales person is sleeping easy that night.

I have heard of some premature arc-bulb failures caused by voltage fluctuations, but then we are using LED's in xx87s/89s displays. The power conditioner is not going to save you from a direct lightning strike to a outside antenna with your display connected via coax unless you utilize a coax lightning surge protector such as a Gas discharge tube protector type as these offer multi-strike capability and bi-directional protection.

Should I connect my different sources to the three HDMI 1.3 inputs on the TV are connect to the A/V receiver's HDMI 1.3 inputs? It sounds like from the previous post that I should connect to the TV so that it can be calibrated to each input. Or can the HDMI CEC somehow allow the calibration of each input even if they are connected at the receiver?

I am new at this, so don't flame me very bad if this is a stupid question.

so i call samsung CS and they tell me that my TVs are the latest builds and there is no need to show the latest FW build when I press the info button... what a load of bull sh!t not sure why it wont display but it can't be for that reason?
oh well all is good with the TVs, i only wanted the info in case i ran across any problem down the road.

btw they must get lots of call about FW upgrade because once i mention it he went into a whole practice speech on why you should not mess with the FW dahhh

Not a problem. Make sure you have all your components connected before the calibration. The calibration should be done at each input.

It's on your PS3 under your BD/DVD settings. Change 24FPS from AUTO to ON.

Calibration follow-up question:
I have a DVD for calibrating the TV. My DVD player can only output to the component in slots. My TV cable source is a TivoHD on the HDMI1 slot. So, do I have borrow my buddies PS3 to use the DVD to calibrate the HDMI1 port? If I only calibrate the component ports then that has no effect on the other input slots?

There is one other way I can do it - transcode the DVD to play on my Tivo and move it from the PC to the Tivo, but that is a pain.

I just received my Samsung on Monday and I love it so far, thanks for all the info on this thread it really helped me in selecting my tv. I was trying to find info on the best settings but I can't seem to find them, might be because I'm Polish.

What exactly is the "HALO effect"? How would I know if I have it? I've had my 6187 for a week now and love it!

Here are the "suggested starter settings."


Avio

Here's a list of the "attachments" to this thread. Look for ones containing "halo" or "prism" in the names of JPG or GIF files.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/misc....ments&t=827799

A picture will help you understand what to look for. Other posters in this thread can provide further comments of what the Halo is.

Avio

I agree, I don't like them either now, lol! Its back to movie mode I think...Dynamic just fools my eyes I guess because it sports better clarity vs 'movie', but while just watching The Patriot on Blu Ray, no matter how I played with it, the soldiers blue coats seemed border line on purple, yet in movie mode they're perfectly blue....heh, guess I'm leaving it on movie and I'm gonna force my eyes to adjust - just wish I could get movie mode to be as clean and sharp as dynamic. I'll admit this, the green push I had been seeing in movie is really just from having the color cranked too much, when its dialed down to more normal levels (like when I pop the same movie into my pc/monitor for color balance and LEVEL reference), I don't see it, looks the same - right now I've even put it on wide gamut, normal tone and color at 37, all is well. =)

WOW... just... WOW. Its like I am at a movie theatre now. Eliab at Avical is worth more than he charges. Besides extracting the best possible picture from my TV, the education he gave me was worth the price alone. He is very direct and blunt, and I appreciate that very much. He explained things in a way that I could understand without dumbing it down so much that I felt like an idiot. If you can catch him, or his partner on a tour, I highly recommend it for these TVs. He maneuvered through my TVs menus and settings like he wrote them. I never realized just how out of whack my TV really was until he came here. I must of heard "you were wrong on this setting" about a dozen times. Basically, my TV started way out in left field at a color temp of 9600K. When it was all said and done, it was at a perfect 6500K. That said, I am going to give you my user menu settings, but as someone pointed out earlier, they probably aren't going to do you any good compared to any others without accessing the service menu settings. That is the key. And, there are a million tweaks and ajustments in that service menu that needs done, and every TV is different. I do not know what all was changed, but it was a lot. So, here is what we came up with for user level settings after the service menu was calibrated.

Movie Mode
Brightness = 45
Contrast = 90
Color = 45
Tint = G43/R57
DNIe = off
sRGB color gamut (he calibrated wide too, but said there is nothing to use it for yet, and that he would let us know when its time to use it.)
All other options stock settings. Particulary gamma. His thoughts on gamma are, and I quote; "People that adjust gamma from 0 are just wrong." So thats that.


Anyway, like I said without the service menu settings these probably don't look like anything else thats out there. So, I recommend it if you can. Avical is the only calibration service that I know that specialized in sammy DLPs. Our TVs, if mine is anything to compare to, are way way out of whack from the factory. He did say mine was one of the worse he started with so maybe yours is better off. He also said that for a fact, the 6187SAX has the 89 firmware. He was actually shocked by what he saw at first.

Well if there are any other questions, let me know.

Justin

Unfortunately this didn't work for me. First, those holes do not exist on my HLT6187S (from May of last year). So I removed the back cover altogether and tried to see if twisting or shifting the light engine tray slightly one or the other would help. Those bumper screws don't exist on my set either (from what I could tell), it was just the black screws that hold the tray in. I might try to take some pictures when the tech comes back. All that really did was make it look as though the image on one side or the other (depending on which direction you twisted it) was being "pinched." You unfortunately you can't really just slide the tray directly left or right because it rests on guides/tracks. I'm really thinking at this point that maybe the lens or something is not quite set properly. I guess I'll find out on Monday. I'm not sure I want to get as deep as the lens while the TV is still under warranty.

Sounds great, Justin, I'm envious, thanks for the update! For now, I'm using very similar settings, of course minus the service menu bazillion tweaks (I did take a peek in mine, but touched NOTHING, lol) you've had done!

I'm at:

Movie mode
Contrast 70
brightness 47
sharpness 30
color 40
Tone normal
Tint 50/50
DNIe off
Black Adjust off
Dynamic contrast low
gamma 0
white balance 0
my color 15/15/15


I'm off to try the ones you posted, sure it won't have the same effect, but it may be an improvement!

If you read the entire thread @Highdefforum you would discover that these "lines" were in fact not burn in and instead artifacts created by his set-top box. They went away when he used a game machine or over the air.

So stop spreading FUD.

Do you mean that I can have all the components connected to the A/V receiver before the calibration or do you mean they have to be connected to the TV? Remember that I heard there should be a separate calibration done for each component.

So I am a little confused. I think I want all components connected to the receiver thru HDMI to get better sound from each source, but I also think I want all components connected to the TV thru HDMI so the picture can be calibrated for each input. I don't think I can have both at the same time. So how is it done?

Ya all of those individual colors for each individual gamut that you probably saw in the service menu were way off, and I now understand what exactly is meant by contrast and brightness now... besides just words. To see it was really educating to say the least. I understand grayscale now too LOL. This guy was just awesome. Very professional and very knowledgeable. He did mention that a lot of the people he does were people that messed around where they didn't belong. I don't even know how to get into the service menu and I don't want to know. There is just too much to go wrong.

Justin

**Update
Retailer says to give them a week, they'll call Samsung and get it serviced under manufacturer warranty, blah blah blah. Sounds like I will be without TV for awhile=( Has this happened to anyone else? The LED bad already?


thanks in advance