2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 467

I downloaded the Service Manual, and the Training Guide from Service-Manual.net, described as:
SAMSUNG HLT6187SX/XAA Chassis L67A(N)_Laurel

They charge $12.99 for the 2 .pdf files, but I'm pleased with the material. there is much more in it than I will ever use, but that's OK.

I paid via PayPal, since I don't know the company, and I didn't want to expose my credit card.

The red went out of my display last week late in the day, but on the following morning, was functional again. It might have just been a heat buildup problem - I measured 120 f. at the outlet near the light engine, so I cleaned out the unit thoroughly.

The outlet temp. dropped down to 100 f. after cleaning, and everything continued to work, but given the high failure rate of Red LEDs on this set, and the 18,000 accumulated LED hours on mine, I decided to just go ahead and order a replacement for it.

I received the new LED from encompass.com today, and installed it without any drama. I was disappointed that encompass charged me about $20 for shipping and handling,after the initial purchase, for a small 1/2 lb package via UPS Ground from Georgia to NC, but I will just look further the next time I'm parts shopping for my set. I'm sure they are taking advantage of the limited number of sources for these parts, and getting premium prices where they can.

They show a picture that looks very much like the one you posted, in the troubleshooting Section of the Service Manual Section 6-3, item

9. Other Screen Errors

Described as:

40 Vertical Lines 16 pixels wide:
DDP3021 or BGA, DMD panel interference
They recommend:
Replace the DMD Board or DMD Panel.

Just a precaution. Take the back cover off and clean heat sinks. That is what causes the over-heating of the LEDs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHE1knzJSfQ
I just put a fan back there, plugged into my SWITCHED outlet on my A/V Amp. It will cool the Samsung from now on, and hopefully extend the life of the LEDs. Now I have to order the RED LED, and install it myself.

see my quote for youtube video replace red led.

For $20.00 buy a small 110 volt fan, and park it behind the vent. It will keep it cool, and extend the life. Take the back cover off first, and clean the heat sinks tho.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHE1knzJSfQ
I am a very visual type person, so this helped me a ton.

BWAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! You sound like me!!! I have to work on my PATIENCE sometimes!!! L0L

That's what I did. I put 2 red bricks underneath the TV, and it works great!

COOKED??? That mother is DEEP FRIED!!! Thanx for the very clear photos. This forum is great for DIYers, and the info is invaluable. We are helping each-other solve problems, and that is neato!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHE1knzJSfQ
Check the dust level/accumulation like in the video, and make the apropo adjustments. These Corps. put cheap crap fans in there that couldn't blow a match out! Electronics+ HEAT= DEATH! I DID NOT put a fan behind my HL-T6189S b/c of my other Samsung I bought about 6-7 years ago. I read somewhere, back then, that the heat levels in the earlier 720Ps should not be adjusted with additional cooling. It was probably BS!

That is where mine was set for 4 years before it blew.

It seems reasonable that using Dynamic mode should reduce LED life, but in my case, I selected Normal mode on the day it was delivered 4 years ago, so that wasn't a factor for me. I had 18,050 hours on the LED's before I ran into a problem last week.

Does it give you a part# for either one of those? And would it be possible to post or send me a picture of the picture that you seen in the service manual, Thanks

Well I went ahead and bought the service manual and I don't think the pictures of errors look anywhere close to the problem I'm having.



http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...8&d=1323933464

Sorry - Not a helpful post. I felt compelled to say "Yikes!" After seeing that picture.

EDIT:
I pulled out my service manual and went through it. It is not going to be the LEDs. Absolute garbage is being asked to be displayed. I would think DMD board based on everything I read in the manual even though picture does not match exactly. This is where it would be handy to have another to swap in....

To vicw, actually Movie mode, which I use, has more reds and is harder on the Red LED than Dynamic or any other mode. I've replaced the Red LED a couple of months ago. My only problem is the small smudge I didn't clean on the lens--I'll get to it sometime.

You know the problem when you see 6 fins on Blue, 12 or 14 on Green, and 24 on Red. They knew it would be a problem. (Numbers approximate.)
-Ken

Sorry for that, and that you seem to be upset, but I'm looking at both pictures right now, and the vertical lines look pretty identical to me. Maybe you are looking at something else.

I just stick with the Normal mode, but if Movie or Dynamic was more pleasing to me, I wouldn't hesitate to use it, even knowing that it might cause the Red LED to fail a bit earlier. These things are made to be enjoyed, I think, not preserved for posterity. I lucked out with the lens on mine. No marks, but I think my focus is just a smidge softer than it was. I may get back in and touch that up sometime, too.

You are probably right about the fin count and that they apparently knew that heat would be a problem for the Red LED. To give them the benefit of doubt, though, they might have just been compensating for the progressively warmer air as it goes through each set of fins.

Using calibration software and DVDs, the only mode that gets realistic results is Movie mode. I am unable to get good results on any mode other than Movie mode. A lot of us bought USB laptop cooling fans and put them on the side vent to remove excess heat. I haven't heard of one red LED failure yet from any of us using this technique.

Since I had an extended service plan through the retailer where I bought my HLT6187S, I called them to fix my halo problem. They ordered a replacement flat black bracket to go around the lens and installed it today. It fixed the halos, but now it looks like the geometry is off. The right side of some HD content gets cut off, and pillar box shows the left pillar as wider than the right.

I put up a test grid image and indeed the right side is cut off. Is it possible that this happened as a result of the guy taking the light engine assembly out to replace the bracket? I don't want to blame him, but if something is fine, then a change is made, and now it' s got an issue, the change is typically the cause.

Could replacing the ring somehow shift the the image?

Just completed the repair of the red LED on my HLT67... Pretty straight forward and the youtube video available made it really simple. However, I also have a slight shadow on the left side of my screen and I am wondering if it may be a light tunnel issue? I saw all of the online docs on the non LED DLPs with the class action suit on the light tunnel but did not see anything regarding this set. Does anyone know if you can still get just the light tunnel or am looking at a whole new light engine? I have a single white dot as well, usually not an issue and has only been one in the 4+ years I've owned the set now.

I've had my Samsung HL-T6187 SAX-XAA since Xmas 2007 and it runs 24 hours a day 365 days a year since.

The only problem that I have had out of it is a red streak & a bright strobing of the entire picture both problems are independent of each other and happen on occasions.

On December 2010 one of the power supplies went out & Fry's extended service replaced it (only had 14 days left on the warranty). I told Ted the service guy about the red streak & strobing, he said lets just get the set working then we will worry about the other issues.

Well fast forward a year and I notice the colors are off. After a little investigating I find out that the blue LED was out. So I ordered & replaced all 3 of the LEDs and cleaned the Fans & Heat Sinks (Thanks to the guys that posted their adventures on YouTube) Put it all back together and crossed my fingers and turned the TV on. Yes, my colors were back to normal!

But after an hour or so I notice this iridescent rainbow effect. The picture looks horrible, I change inputs and the problem follows... So I turn off the power and rainbow goes away sometimes for hours but it does eventually start again.

Yes, I still have the red streak and the strobing issue.

Any help would be appreciated!

I can't have the only Samsung doing this. Any others out there. because I'm not really want to spend $300+ dollars to find that was not the problem.

Any others care to chime in? Thanks

Wow I did not know my TV could do 3D!!

I must first apologize for my ignorance on this subject - BUT

Can someone list the hardware (I'll assume this package above) and anything else I need to watch 3D movies on my LED Samsung (61")??

After the hardware - what settings changes need to happen if any?

sorry -and thanks

I was hoping you guys could help me out. I have a HLT6187SAX, and a couple of days it started giving me no sound. Then it went down hill from there quickly.

Where I am at now..... I try to turn it on and you see the set come on but with no picture or sound. Then what happens from there is the green light on the front blinks 8 times. Then the red light comes on and it turns itself off, but then it starts the process over again by itself...... 8 blinks of the green light, shuts off with one blink of the red, turns back on with 8 blinks of green off with one red and so on. I unplugged the TV overnight, and when I plugged it back in..... same thing over and over.

I am hoping you guys might be able to point me in the right direction. Does it sound fixable without spending a fortune? If it were going to cost more than $600, I would probably just trash it. Darn thing is less than 4 years old! I have 4 really unhappy kids right now, which makes for 2 very unhappy adults

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you VERY much!!

Cheers Guys (and Gals),

Chris

Has anyone ever seen this behavior with the Samsung HLT5687sx?

I have come home twice now in the past month and the TV appears to be on, black screen with the blue light on but pressing the center power button on the TV won't turn it off and it seems to be frozen. Pulling the plug for a few seconds fixes the issue. I have no idea what the TV was doing before is freezes as I was work and the kids and wife were home and of course no one can tell me what was going on...

yes, i have those glasses and the IR emitter

also, you will need a device that plays 3D content, I have the Panasonic BDT-210 which outputs in checkerboard format, which the tv needs

it is one of the few that output in checkerboard, so get it or one that does

if you have another device (ps3 or cable box) that outputs 3d, but not checkerboard you will need an adapter such as the mitsubishi 3da-1

here is a helpful thread for figuring that out:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1341216

I decided to try again to open the TV and clean the mirror and also check if i might have damaged something from my last attempt. I had to remove the power and main units to have access to the 4 screws to remove the front screen. I missed these 4 screws the first time because the service manual had no mention of these screws. So i cleaned the mirror, checked all the connections, re-assembled everything and once powered on, did a Factory Reset from the service menu. Everything is working fine now.

So either the reset did it or maybe pulling all the cables from the boards "reset" the system. Like rebooting a computer. I just have to dial in my settings and i'm, thankfully, back to normal. And at least i got a chance to fool around inside the TV. Very easy to work on if i ever need to in the future.

I have the hlt-6187S in my case, decided to try a friends glasses he got off ebay.. they were the ones that are similar to the eagle 510's, $40 per pair, dlp-link type..

I have TMT 5, loaded up Captain america 3d.. set tv to 3d.. (DLP/dual view std glasses).. then in tmt (media center version of the player), under info.. 3d... i see 3d is checked off..

I see the typical red tint to the screen as many reported with my set.. i see the 3d shift on the image.. put glasses on, press button, get an initial flash like its trying to sync but never does..

My HTPC is an motherboard for the i3-540 series cpu (built in graphics onboard cpu etc) (Intel HD graphics).. it only supports checkerboard, not side by side.. (motherboard P7H55** series)

Not sure what i'm missing here.. maybe something with TMT and the media center version or maybe intel? My avr is the denon AVR-1912. I dont have an emitter, as with dlp-link it was my understanding this isnt needed, nor a 3d driver.