2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 470

saturnguy - I watch a lot of hockey and have no issue with tinted ice. Although, it is where you see a rainbowish screen texture if you look hard. I suggest going into movie mode, turn off all enhancements like DNE or whatever they are called, and color correct using DVE, AVIA, or another tool like those. The only time I see red tints are when 3D is enabled.

This set for $100 is the steal of a lifetime. Get the mitts 3D adapter next, and prepare to go HOLY SH*T! haha

It will be very tough for me to scour through 470 pages so I'm hoping someone can answer this question.

My TV has suddnely started to turn off randomly on its own. I power it back up manually and it will turn back off again at another random time. Sometimes it will last a couple of hours and sometimes it will only last a couple of minutes but it's quite annoying to have the TV constantly shut off.

Anyone know what the fix is?

Mine made it 12k hours on my 6187SAX..... so I guess that's not too shabby. 45 minutes and 85 bucks later, my "baby" was back up and running as good as new. Even the wife noticed the difference in PQ, stating "The picture looks better now than it did before it died." My guess is that the red LED was failing over time, and maybe dulled the picture a tad? Dunno....

Here's to another 12k hours.

What source is $85? I remember the original source was $85, but checked recently and they are now over $100!

Ordered through Amazon.....

SAMSUNG BP07-00029A LED DISPLAY PHLAT LI OEM Original Part
Sold by: Order Parts Today ( seller profile )
Price: $87.67

I was a little concerned about the seller, but the transaction went through without a hitch.

Thanks for the info, Ramsrule. I see they're $89.99 now. I think I'll order one to have on hand for the likely future failure of my red LED.

I was thinking about doing the same thing (actually was going to get all 3 colors) in an attempt to stock up some parts for future failure and eliminate down time, but now that I've come back here (for the first time in a LONG time) and read about the capacitor issue, I dont know what will fail first - the LED's again or the boards. Ugh. Mine did have a main-board replacement due to my house taking a lightening strike last year (it only killed one of the HDMI inputs, but insurance paid to replace it so I figured why not), so maybe that will extend the life of things a bit?

So I think I'll just ride it out and deal with it whenever it happens. It's been a great TV set for me over the past 4+ years, and I wouldnt want to have to replace it unless it's absolutely necessary.

Good luck everyone with your sets!

The thing that worries me most about these sets is the way they suddenly go from flawless to broken. Seems like there are no warning signs that a failure is coming until it is too late. So far, so good (knock on wood). Currently there are no sets on the market better than these for size, features, and PQ except for the 61A750 which is also impossible to find now.

Hi All,

Haven't posted since 10-21-2007 (I tend to read/lurk rather than post) and in general have been enjoying my HL-T6187. Unfortunately, the good feelings started ending around October 2011. I started noticing white spots that didn't move. In other words, a few of the pixels of the DLP chip where stuck on. By April, I had well over 60 stuck on pixels and additional 30+ stuck off pixels (probably more, I stopped counting after I got to 25 stuck on).

So I came back to the forum and found that others were having this problem along with red LED and capacitor issues. Definitely learned a lot by reading every ones post. Thanks for posting all your information (good and bad). So, I decided to try to replace my DLP and film it because I was unable to locate a good video on replacing the DLP chip in the LED DLP Samsung TVs. FYI, there is a good video on Youtube for replacing the Red LED. Anyways, the replacement was a success as of Saturday afternoon!

Today I downloaded the video in to my computer and plan to edit it over the next several nights. I want to distill it down to the necessary steps and adjust the audio where necessary. Once it's done, I'll post it. The good news is that I don't think it's hard and it only took about 1.25 hrs (not bad for my first time ever replacing a DLP). Take that with a grain of salt though because I tinker with computers all the time and have built three from scratch.

More to come,
-Will

Ugh, I sure hope someone can help me. I've had a 5087SAX since April '07 and have loved it. Recently, though, it started taking longer and longer to turn on and the power seemed to cycle on and off several times before it would finally stay on. Then it started turning on and the color would be messed up but it never seemed to be the same color (one time the screen would be mostly green next time mostly red and so on) and if i turned it off and back on the color would be fine. Now it's taking hours (seriously) to get it to stay on and the color will flicker in and out and then the TV will turn itself off and the 3 light will blink. Every now and then, though, it will come on and have all three colors represented but still doesn't look right and it's dimmer than it should be but it will stay on.

Does anyone have any idea what might be wrong? I've been looking at plasma and LED TVs but I really would rather stick with my DLP. HELP!

You may be a candidate for the Samsung Class Action Settlement that relates to failing electrolytic capacitors on the Main and sub power supplies. They replaced both of mine at no cost.

If your set is in the eligible group (it should be), and your symptoms satisfy Samsung, they will set up a home appointment to replace either the caps or both of the supplies. Scan back a bit in this thread, and you will see it discussed in some detail, If you can't dig out the info., post again, and I'll post it again to get you started.

I've definately been spoiled by my new Panasonic plasma when playing video games. PS3 and 360 look so damn good on a plasma. Is there anything that can be done to make this set close to the clarity and sharpness of a plasma? I know it will never be the same, but I feel you lose a lot of detail with the DLP tech.

Try these starter settings; I've been using them since day 1.

http://www.avical.com/articles/samsung_hl-t_and_hl-s_dlp_starter_settings.html

Finally finished editing and posting of the video on how to replace the DLP chip in the HLT 6187S.

My take on the difficulty level is that it is fairly straight forward and not difficult. It only took me ~1hour and 15 minutes and that included extra time for camera setup and filming. If you have ever home-brewed a PC then it will be easy for you. The only tools you'll need are a phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, and a razor blade (and perhaps some courage). The only part you need to buy is the replacement DLP chip. The correct part number is "Samsung/Mitsubishi/Toshiba 4719-001997" (take the stuff between the quotes and do a web search-you'll find it). I also purchased a service manual online which shows you how to do this. The side benefit of the service manual is that it also has information about aligning/adjusting your DLP image. I personally didn't do an alignment but I know some forum members are very particular about such issues. Finally, you might want to have some sort of "thermal paste". The adhesive thermal pad on the heat sink should be replaced and thermal paste (like arctic silver - which is what I used) is really better than the pads anyways. Finally, I even had my 10 yr old son help a little (you'll see him a few time in the video). He into photography and want to film and help; so, he did.

My total cost for this replacement:
DLP Chip ~ $190
Ser. Manual ~$15
Total ~$205

A lot cheaper than having a service representative do it.

Anyways, if you're thinking about doing this, check out my how to video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBz3TanJv0Q
I think you'll see how simple it is.

-Will

Great video. If I ever have to replace my DLP chip I'll definately do it myself. Thanks!

Thanks. Hopefully your DLP won't die anytime soon. I made the video because I could find any good HLT*87 DLP chip replacement videos. Probably works for the HLT*89 also; but I don't know for sure.

I'm eventually going to add a second video. Basically, while you have it open, you can clean out the LED heat sinks (so as to help avoid the red LED failure) and clean off 2 optical lenses of any dust. Unfortunately, I've been having AC issues at my house and too busy at work. Should take less than a week to put it together once I have the time.

-William

Finally, after much procrastinating, I installed an OTA antenna for HD today. No surprise that compared to my analog cable, the picture quality is astonishing. My problem now is with audio. My volume output on Antenna is far lower than on Cable. When switching back and forth, there's a noticeable (sometimes painful) difference.

I've noticed before that my TV volume was always higher than my other sources (HDTV, MP3 player...) on my HK AVR-254. Now it turns out that it's not TV, but actually Cable TV that's way too loud. Am I missing an output adjustment somewhere?

BTW, the audio in question is through the Optical Out.

Thanks,
PC

You mention analog cable. Is it directly into the back of the TV or does it go through a cable box first?

If there is a cable box, there is often a volume control for the cable box. It's not always obvious, it might be down in a setup menu. If you don't have a cable box, then I guess it's the signal from the cable provider. Not much you can do then.

-Will

No cable box. Straight into the set. I guess I'll have to live with it.

Added a second video on how to clean the lenses and LED heat sinks while you have your HDTV disassembled.

***** EDITED 8-28-2012 ******* Put old link back. Resolved Copyright issue ***************
http://youtu.be/lsSnQnKsKWs
*****************************************************
For those that read this forum often, you may have read about the red LED failing. This is not a guarantee, but cleaning the heat sinks for the LEDs may help increase the lifespan of them. This video shows where they are and how to clean them.

-Will
Edited by wrweier - 8/30/12 at 9:40pm

Nice video. ...Back in 2011, I posted this picture of a USB fan I installed to suck out the hot air near the heatsinks. I'm not sure it will prevent the LEDs from going bad, but it can't hurt.

Thanks for your video. It is going to be most helpful as I replace my DLP chip/board set in the next few days.



Question:


I have a HL-T5087SX-XAA Samsung model DLP.

I know that the part number for the chip is 4719-001997.

However the stamp on the chip is 1910-6103W. Some have referred to this as the "board number".

When I look for a replacement part, all seem to indicate that 4719-001997, 1910-6103W and 1910-6143W are all the same part.


Do you have any info on this ??


Thanks in advance.

You may want to try calling Samsung Executive Care 1st. I had a positive experience.

Samsung Executive Care: 1-800-522-7341

Take a look here http://www.avsforum.com/t/827799/2007-samsung-led-owners-thread-hlt-xx87-89s/13920#post_20930212

HDMI Issues on all inputs

Has anyone had HDMI issues on all inputs? I have several devices that seem to have intermittent issues on HDMI. The TV will lose the signal for a second and then recover. My main viewing is an HD tivo connected via component, so I don't have a lot of viewing time on HDMI inputs.

It started with my Panasonic Blu-Ray which I use very infrequently. I assumed it was the player since the forums have reported problems with that model (U73 errors).

I had a second Direct TV receiver connected to the Samsung that I used on occassion. (Mostly NFL ticket or any HD show that is MPEG 4 only... TNT, AMC, etc.) It started having issues about 9 months ago. Again, I though it was the source device. That receiver was replaced with an HR34 whole home reciever about 3 moths ago. Recently, that one has started having issues too. Last night it was so bad, that I could not get a signal with the HR34 that lasted LONGER than 2 seconds. The TV reported combinations of No Signal, Searching for Signal, and Unsupportrd Mode.

I have tried different HDMI cables with no lasting effect.

I have not taken the set apart to try reseating the I/O board. Scanning through my service manual, I cannot seem to find the part number for that board. Section 7-1 of the manual referes to it as Jack Board.

Anyone out there replaced one of these?

Thanks

The part I removed from my TV does have the 1910-6103W stamped on it. I don't know if this is a Samsung part number or not. If you put following in to a web search:
Samsung/Mitsubishi/Toshiba 4719-001997
You'll find the part you want. Based on information I've read at resellers and the service manual, the DLP chip itself is mounted in a package called the "DMD panel". In my video while I'm inserting the new DLP chip, I have a graphic that points out the plastic ring that helps you line it up. This is actually a PCB (printed circuit board) that is mounted around the actual DLP chip. My guess is that this PCB package for the DLP is being referred to as "board number" since this the "board"/"package" that works in the HLT-??87s TV's.

@dengland
I was well past my warranty time. I assume Samsung had no reason to help me. I had also read that to get it serviced cost $500 and up. I figured I'd do it myself for half that. I'm still a little worried that my TV will have "other problems" after reading more of this forum. But, I figured if I can fix my TV for ~$200 and it last for 5-6months (i.e. till Christmas) then the price of any currently selling TV will have drop by at least that much and probably more. In fact, before I committed to doing the DLP replacement, I started searching for what TV I'd get next (just in case I destroyed the TV in the process of "fixing" it). The TV I decided upon has already drop from 3200 to 2800 in the last 4 months. Hopefully I can put off buying a new one for longer. The technologies just keep getting better.

As for your HDMI issue, I scanned through the service manual I have. The "Jack Board" I see on page 74, is for analog signals only. Back on page 65, they show the main board. it looks like the HDMI ports sit/connect directly to the main board. I have not taken that board out or tinkered with it so I'm just going by the pictures. Sorry I can't be of any more help. Good luck.

-William

Thanks William.

I was well outside of warranty too on the DLP chip replacement. I was reay to pitch a fit, but they were nice about it. It was replaced only 10 months ago.

Looks like some folks sell the main board that includes the I/O as you said. It has to be in a connector. It just does not look like it is available by itself.

So we just had the Samsung tech out to replace the board with the capacitors, but the TV (HLT-6187SAX/XAA) is still having issues. All 5 capacitors were swollen (bad), but replacing them didn't solve anything.

Basically, it takes a really long time (and many attempts) to turn it on when it is cold.

We turn it on, one of the green leds on the front blinks for a while, then it turns itself off after a couple of minutes. We do this several times (about 4-5 times I think) before the TV finally warms up and stays on, and we get a picture. We've thought about just leaving it running all the time, but I have a feeling that that will shorten the LED lifetimes, particularly the red one everyone talks about going out.

The Samsung contracted tech called it in after the capacitor replacement failed to fix the problem, and apparently he was told that sometimes the light engine is damaged by the failed capacitors, and it needs a new "light engine", which would only be refurbished at this point, and probably cost $1000 or more.

Anybody seen this problem, and have any idea what is really wrong, and if there's some cheaper part we can replace? We did love the picture on this TV, but it looks like it's dying.

Thanks!

There are 2 power supply boards that are candidates for replacement due to defective capacitors. Did he just repair the sub PS assy?

Hmm, good question. I think he only replaced one board, on the right side of the TV when looking from the back.. I'll open it back up and look around. Maybe I can see some other swollen capacitors.

Be careful back there, and pull power from the set first. They have some fairly high voltages that can remain for a while after power is removed, and before they bleed down. The Main PS board lies horizontally on the left side, facing into the rear of the set. You should be able to see some, but perhaps not all, of the caps without removing the board.