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2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 471

post #14101 of 14848
I've tried to read through this entire thread. I have an HLT6187SX/XAA. A few weeks ago my screen had some funky colors then went blank. I took it to a tv repair shop, and after 3 weeks of them 'researching the parts' they said I needed three new light sources and they want $450 for just the parts. Needless to say, I got my TV back and took it home. I took the TV apart and followed some of the instructions here on the forum. None of the LED's look bad.

So what do I need to test?

Do I need to just replace my three LED's, is there another test I need to run?

Help is greatly appreciated. I tried reading though the 400 pages, but I couldn't find what I should do.
post #14102 of 14848
It could be the power supply that powers the light engine. For all the LEDs to go bad at once, that would be my first thing to trouble shoot.

If the power goes bad and burns out the LEDs, replacing them would be futile.
post #14103 of 14848
Correct me if I'm wrong. The power supply should be outputing 16v's. When I tested the power supply it is putting out the proper 16v's. When I called Samsung, they had me do some testing on the Power supply, and they said it is fine. They said there was a recall on the power supply and if it was bad they would replace it. They walked me through testing it, and according to them, its in good working order.
post #14104 of 14848
White dots started to appear on my 5087 and it looks to be the DMD chip. Yesterday, I called Samsung even though I know my TV is out of warranty to see if they could do anything. After complaining, I have my case going to executive customer care (something like that). Today, the green's went on the TV. Looks to be the green LED. I replaced the red LED chip about a year ago.

This is ridiculous what is happening with this TV. The TV was boxed up and stored in an air-conditioned storage warehouse for a year and a half for the time I have had it. For the amount of TV I have watched on this, it shouldn't be crapping out like it is.
post #14105 of 14848
Will,

Thanks so much for your video, definitely the best out there and was all I needed to do this job myself as well. I have the same set you do and am in Austin as well!

Wished I'd noticed the other one before I did this to vacuum the heat sinks on the LEDs but may go in and do that to avoid the dreaded red LED death.

Lots of great info on this forum. I do have a question for the esteemed folks on this thread. After changing out my DLP chip I went into the service menus to adjust the vertical, horizontal, etc. However, best I could do on the vertical (0, bottomed out) still has the picture too high. And there is definitely a band of black at teh bottom. Watching the Olympics now, I don't see the top score in the box at the top, just the lower one. Did I not get something mechanically set, or is there some additional adjustment possible in a potentiometer somewhere that I should have checked before final reassembly?

Thanks!

Doug
Edited by DougBoost - 7/29/12 at 12:47pm
post #14106 of 14848
Doug,

After doing my DLP replacement, I have a slight tilt. It's lifts up maybe 2 degree in the right corner. The service manual I have tells you how to do alignments. There are 3 screws near the DLP chip that my video says not to touch. Those are the ones for alignment. I've considered making a video on this topic, I just don't have much time and motivation because the tilt isn't that obvious. My point, spending $15-$20 on a service manual might give you the answers your looking for. However, since it's lifted so far up, I wonder if you didn't get the light chassis all the way in. Just a guess. I did notice that when I first slid mine in, it didn't sit all the way down until I pushed it in a little farther. Of course, the more I type and think about it, you probably couldn't have inserted the two screws that hold it in if you hadn't put it back in properly. Given your description, it sounds more mechanical in nature to me but I'm no expert.

Also, thanks for your kind comments on my video. I made it to help other fix this TV and it's nice to get positive feedback. smile.gif

-William
post #14107 of 14848
Oops! I went back and looked at your video again (that part 3 more times actually) and now see I completely missed that inset window that showed not to remove those 3 screws. I didn't hear you say it verbally, either, and thought sure they held the board in. In fact, when I first watched the video I wondered how you jumped so fast from removing that heat sink surround to suddenly looking at the back side of the circuit board.

Does the service manual tell you how to figure out how to get this set right again? Does it also explain in any detail how to use the service menus? Where's the best way to get a copy?

Thanks again,

Doug
post #14108 of 14848
Hi Doug,

Yes, section 3-6 tells you how to "loosen" those three screws and (with a second person in front) move the board. Sounds like for you it would be either a simple slide up (maybe down when I think about the mirror reflections) to get the image into place. I've never done this and don't know how easy or hard it is. The other thing to think about is you actually need to have the TV on (they say so in the service manual) so you can see what you are doing. Be careful what you handle and touch. In particularly don't touch large capacitors. Section 3.6.3 also has some notes on "illumination adjustment". There are two knobs to turn. One for horizontal, one for vertical. It's not clear to me what exactly is being adjusted; but maybe this can also shift the image down for you.

As for service manuals, I found two places online. I added them to the "comments" section of the DLP replacement video. I'd never heard of either of the places. I just picked the cheaper. I received an email with a link for the pdf download and it worked. YMMV.

Good luck and I'd be curious how it goes. Your treading in to water I haven't reached yet. I thought the water would be much deeper when I decided to do the DLP replacement. It actually wasn't. So I suspect some patience, reading, a screwdriver, and some time is all you need.

-William
post #14109 of 14848
Thanks William, I figured it pretty much had to be done the way you (and the SM) say since don't know how you could do it with the TV off. BTW, I saw you work on computers and so do I. I'm an Electrical Engineer and used to design computer h/w for IBM and Boeing Military so well aware of the risk of charged capacitors but always good to post in forums like this for those who are not.

Doug
post #14110 of 14848
Has anyone had an issue with the left edge of the screen being darker than the rest of the screen? About an inch or two of the whole left edge is very dark, almost black, but you can still see the picture underneath. The rest of the screen is normal and looks good. Any idea what this could be? I can try to get a picture later if needed.
post #14111 of 14848
Hi all. I have had several issues with my 5087 tv. I fixed the red LED last year. Recently, I started getting whte dots on the screen. The other day, all greens went. Today, I replaced the DLP Chip since white dots were showing up and that fixed that problem. The greens are still not showing up. Instead of replacing the green LED, I tested all of them and they all light up. What else could it be why the greens are not showing up at all if it's not the LED? Thanks!!
post #14112 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by dengland View Post

You may want to try calling Samsung Executive Care 1st. I had a positive experience.
Samsung Executive Care: 1-800-522-7341

Do tell (or is it somewhere buried in here - I couldn't find it). I called the 1-800-SAMSUNG number last week about my stuck mirrors and they told me they would replace my DLP chip under the program. I was THRILLED to finally have Samsung stand behind this product for once. Then when the repair shop went to order the part, they were told that my model wasn't covered. I called Samsung back to find out what was going on. Now they say my model (HLT6187SX/XAA) is not covered. I pitched a fit and they sent me over to Exec Care. After 20 minutes of very polite exchange, the lady told me there was nothing she could do. That was today. I guess I'm going to have to sign up for another DIY repair (already did my red LED a couple years back). Grrrr.
Edited by Jarrod - 8/18/12 at 1:29pm
post #14113 of 14848
Does anybody here know if the DLP chip part no 4719-001997 is 3D-capable? Reading through some of the DLP chip replacement posts here leads me to believe that there is a replacement chip that works with this TV but disables 3D mode. I want to be sure the get the right one, because I use 3D on my HLT6187.

Edit: This is the one my Samsung authorized service center was going to order for my TV, so I'm going with it. Order placed @ $159 shipped from shop jimmy dot com.

Edit2: Got the chip, replaced it as per wrwier's video posted earlier in the thread. Took about an hour. The new chip works great, including 3D. Annoyed at the problem, but super happy I was able to save almost $200 on labor and the part was also about $80 cheaper ordering online vs. through Samsung authorized repair shop. So overall saved about $270+ going DIY with the info in this thread and didn't have to miss work waiting for a repair truck during the week. Thanks all.
Edited by Jarrod - 8/25/12 at 11:08am
post #14114 of 14848
Looked through my service manual, and AFAICT, all troubleshooting guides lead to the DMD Board. That's the board you mounted the DLP chip on. Since you see the green LED light up, I'm assuming that means it's not the LED. The next "step" in the diagrams is for the DMD Board to "process" the light and send it to the correct mirrors. I'm no expert but I'd guess either one of the cable is lose on the DMD Board (because you said you did the DLP replacement), or something has failed on the DMD Board. Again, I'm only guessing based on the information below and the service manual.

At a minimum, check any and all cables. Maybe one is lose, not inserted properly, or got bumped while you were in there.

-Will
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rev2S View Post

Hi all. I have had several issues with my 5087 tv. I fixed the red LED last year. Recently, I started getting whte dots on the screen. The other day, all greens went. Today, I replaced the DLP Chip since white dots were showing up and that fixed that problem. The greens are still not showing up. Instead of replacing the green LED, I tested all of them and they all light up. What else could it be why the greens are not showing up at all if it's not the LED? Thanks!!
post #14115 of 14848
Given the garbage mid-term reliability of these sets, Samsung really should have put the service manual in the public domain.
post #14116 of 14848
Hi All,
First and foremost: I apologize in advance if my problem exists in the previous threads....

I have searching the Web for solutions to fix my Samsung DLP. Unfortunately, I have not resolved my issue--I am really stumped here!!!

Model:
Samsung HL-T5687SX/XAA

Symptoms:
sound, no picture (sometimes)

Details:
When I turn on the TV, the background somewhat flashes as if the LCD's are starting up while the "LED" indicator on the bottom right hand corner of the TV blinks for about 1 minute--then the LED light turns off but the TV remains on. Within that minute, the sound turns on. I can even change the channels with my remote. If I leave the tv on for 5 minutes or so (sound still on), I will turn it off, turn it back on and get sound AND picture—a very clear picture, good as new. There are no color deficiencies.

What I have done so far and what I have observed:

1. cleaned out the dust in the back of the tv
2. all fans are working
3. replaced power supply (BP44-01001A)--same symptoms
4. inspected all boards for blown/bulging capacitors, etc--no deformities
5. tested all LCD's with a 9 volt battery--all are working well
6. Called Samsung...some things are better left unsaid

Is there anything else I need to test? It seems that this may be some kind of mechanical problem…as if it needs to warm up, expand to make some kind of a connection.
Thoughts, please. I really appreciate it. Thanks!!!
post #14117 of 14848
kasanami,

I had the same problem, and a DMD board replacement fixed it.

Symptoms are exactly like mine; most likely the DMD board. I had the power supply checked as well and everything seemed fine. I've heard that it's an overheating problem? Not sure of its ability to recover. Best of luck. Try calling Samsung and mentioning the DMD board explicitly.

I had my DMD board repaired recently and the replacement just died on me. White dots in the corner, can tell that I'm changing channels because I see some white dots moving when I change, have audio.
post #14118 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by gpong View Post

Has anyone had an issue with the left edge of the screen being darker than the rest of the screen? About an inch or two of the whole left edge is very dark, almost black, but you can still see the picture underneath. The rest of the screen is normal and looks good. Any idea what this could be? I can try to get a picture later if needed.

I had this same issue last year gpong. To fix it, you need to adjust one or two of the screws for the lens illumination. They are located just below the actual lens itself. I've included a couple pics to show you about where to go and what you are looking for. If you're like me and have small hands, you can reach in and adjust them with the TV on but if not, you'll need to pull the whole board setup out about 6" to get to them. Let me know if you have any trouble finding them or if it doesn't fix the issue.



post #14119 of 14848
Here we go, the red LED finally blew out after a little over 4 years of use. Funnily enough I was looking through this thread the other day to see about a 3D upgrade and heard about the Red LED issue for the first time, now it has struck. I have a general idea of what to do to fix it but there's one thing I haven't seen mentioned here...after about 4 minutes of the tv being powered on, the image starts flickering blue every few seconds. Is this something else more than the LED or will the replacement do the trick? I don't want to keep throwing money into it in the long run.
post #14120 of 14848
Well, the part is coming tomorrow. Any thoughts on also replacing the thermal compound on the Green & Blue LEDs or leave well enough alone? Hope this is the fix
post #14121 of 14848
kasanami,

Have you had any luck with your set? I am in the same boat (I think) and would like to know if you have any solutions.
post #14122 of 14848
I think I would leave well enough alone (other than vacuuming any dust out). I don't think there is enough benefit to what you want to do. The blue and the green get more airflow, There is not much history of those going out. I just don't think you will add any measurable life to the LEDs and you run the minute risk of an "aw crap" moment.

Would you change out the grease on your PC CPU Heatsink because there was a new one that worked 10% better than the Artic Silver that you put on 2 years ago?
post #14123 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by dengland View Post

I think I would leave well enough alone (other than vacuuming any dust out). I don't think there is enough benefit to what you want to do. The blue and the green get more airflow, There is not much history of those going out. I just don't think you will add any measurable life to the LEDs and you run the minute risk of an "aw crap" moment.
Would you change out the grease on your PC CPU Heatsink because there was a new one that worked 10% better than the Artic Silver that you put on 2 years ago?

As someone who used to build PC's for a living, I would recommend replacing it and replacing it often. Thermal compound is only really good for a year or two at best, and that is if you are using good stuff like Arctic Silver 5. I've been replacing the thermal compound on all of the LEDs on almost a yearly basis since I bought the TV and I have almost 12,000 hours on all original LEDs, including the red. As a standard, I run my TV with the back cover off and a small desk fan sucking air away from the red LED heatsink as well and even then I sometimes the red will overheat and shut down on me, causing a nice light-blue hue to come over the screen and not leave for awhile. If there is one thing I learned real quick with these TVs it's that they have huge heat/humidity problems and there is a lot of evidence in the forums to support that as well.
Edited by white_bread_trav - 9/13/12 at 5:15am
post #14124 of 14848
I've read through and searched the thread a bit, but wanted to see if anyone had a take on my problem.

Bought a Samsung HLT5087S in '07. Tonight when I turned it on the entire screen is almost completely dark, you can just barely make out the outline of whatever's on the screen, and it intermittently flickers. What's visible is greenish hued I'd say, not normal colors. I figure the LED's have gone out. Any thoughts? Thanks for any help, I appreciate it.
post #14125 of 14848
It's not likely that all 3 LEDs have gone out. Typically, only the red LED fails. This sounds more like a power supply failure.
post #14126 of 14848
Similar problem. Let me know if you have a fix.
post #14127 of 14848
Thanks for the feedback!
post #14128 of 14848
Last night my 5089s screen turned completely red tinted for 5 seconds, then turned back to normal, then several minutes later did the same thing for 10 seconds, then turned back to normal

i then watched a movie for 2 hours and it didn't happen again


is this the signal of impending doom?

does this sound like an LED or the DMD board?
post #14129 of 14848
Intermittent failures are hard to diagnose. I was having HDMI problems infrequently, but it eventually was persistent enough to blame the TVs and not the sources. There is also a LED driver board in the mix. Blue and Green LED failures have been much more rare than the Red LEDs. When my red failed, I dont remember any warning it just went and the football fields were all blue.

Are you using RGB inputs or HDMI? If you are using RGB, you could pull off the Blue input cable and see if that replicates what you saw. Not sure you can do that with the Green. You may lose sync on the picture. I am pretty sure you will lose the picture if you remove ther green input cable.
post #14130 of 14848
I'm using hdmi, if i can find some component cables i'll test it out

I watched again tonight and nothing went wrong

you said that the football field turned blue, does that mean the rest of your screen was ok? the whole screen basically turned red on mine, no matter what the color was before

already had the dlp chip replaced under warranty 2.5 years ago for the white dot issue....no longer under warranty

i guess i'll just wait and see if it happens again and try to snap a picture and go from there
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