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2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 473

post #14161 of 14848
Hey guys. Last night I went to change the picture display settings and it switched to something called "Work Mode" and now, regardless of what I set the settings to, after 10 minutes or so, they reset and go back to default. Does anyone know what I may have done and how to turn it off?
post #14162 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinsane87 View Post

Hey guys. Last night I went to change the picture display settings and it switched to something called "Work Mode" and now, regardless of what I set the settings to, after 10 minutes or so, they reset and go back to default. Does anyone know what I may have done and how to turn it off?

Are you sure it didn't say "shop mode"?

Search this thread for shop mode. There are over 100 posts regarding it.

I can tell you from memory that there was a particular model that had a firmware bug that caused it to stick in shop mode. It was fixed by a firmware upgrade.

I don't recall how to turn it off, but the answer is probably buried in this thread.
post #14163 of 14848
I think to turn off Shop mode you need to go into the Service Menu (In order to enter the Service Mode, Press "Mute" → "1” → "8" → "2" → "POWER" button on the Remote Control.
In case entry into SERVICE MODE is unsuccessful, repeat the procedures above.)

Then go to option #22 - Shop Mode and make sure it is set to OFF.

If you go into the service menu all of your calibration settings are reset, so be careful.
post #14164 of 14848
I tried going into the menu and then simply exiting thinking that would do it, but it did not. I don't have the Samsung remote after a messy move and have been using a remote for a satellite box I had that's programed to my tv and it obviously won't allow me to move around the service menu.
post #14165 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinsane87 View Post

I tried going into the menu and then simply exiting thinking that would do it, but it did not. I don't have the Samsung remote after a messy move and have been using a remote for a satellite box I had that's programed to my tv and it obviously won't allow me to move around the service menu.

You'll need this then:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SAMSUNG-Remote-HLT6187S-HLT-6187S-DLP-TV-/110311249386

WARNING EDIT - that is not an original 6187s remote, it has no 3D mode button. Make sure you get the correct remote!

Here is one with the 3D button:
http://www.newremotecontrol.com/samsung/catalog_item.php?catnum=BP5900128A

The actual part number is BP59-00128A but I think it is on a nationwide back-order.
Edited by nickels55 - 10/16/12 at 10:46am
post #14166 of 14848
Alright. Thanks
post #14167 of 14848
I dont think you need the remote.Try below, before you shell out out some cash.

Turning Off Shop Mode
To turn off Shop Mode, follow these steps:

1.Turn your TV on.
2.Press the Volume button on the side panel of your TV. The volume bar is displayed on the screen.
3.Press the Menu button on the side panel of your TV for about seven seconds. If Dynamic or Dynamic Mode is displayed on the screen, your TV has been removed from Shop Mode.
Note: You may want to press the INFO button on your remote again to confirm you TV is no longer in Shop Mode.
post #14168 of 14848
That did it. Thanks so much buddy.
post #14169 of 14848
"I'm looking for some suggestions.I have the 61" and have had the power supply and capaciters replaced using the samsung capaciter settlement twice,so thats not my issue. Problem is whenever the set is cold and I try to power it on the green LED on the front of the display will blink steady for about 30- 40 seconds then stops.Its as though the TV stops trying to turn on, and at that point it will ignore all subsequent power button presses via the remote or hard button on the display itself.I need to physically unplug the AC then plug back in again in order to try again.After that the set powers on.Any thoughts what it could be?"


I'm having the same issue as BopperG above. The capaciters have been replaced so far. Not the power supply as of yet.
Samsung tech is thinking main board, but he is guessing and I dont want to spend the money if Samsung wont cover just to replace a part and it might not fix the issue.
Anyone else find a fix for this problem? The TV is fine while on. It takes about 3 minutes for it to turn on when off all night. I'm thinking this is only going to get worse.

Any additonal suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick
Edited by sciulan - 10/19/12 at 4:29pm
post #14170 of 14848
Hey Nick,
I had a different samsung tech come to my house again yesterday,as a follow up from the last visit 2 weeks ago.This time the tech said it was not the power supply or capaciter,but the mother board as well.So.. if your tech said it, and my tech said.. it's probably the main board.I was quoted 300 for the part plus 70 labor.You add tax in to the mix,the repair will be approx 400..I already needed the red and green LED replaced and the DMD board,which was covered under my 3rd party warranty.In this day and age,you can get a new 60" for 1000. Just might not make sense to invest 400 into a 5 year old set Ive been having problems with... the whole situation sucks,especially considering I bought this set as a brand new model and cost me 2300!. I've been in contact with samsung tech support asking for a one time courtesy for it to be covered,but they won't budge..
post #14171 of 14848
Hi BoppperG.

Thanks for the quick reply. Wow. You got a good deal 5 yrs ago. I think I bought my Samsung HL-T6187S for around $3600 back in July 2007.
You would think these TV's would last more than 5 yrs with the prices they go for.
The tech is going to replace the capaciter board again next week.Hoping it was a faulty one, but I doubt it.
I would hate to replace the main board with cost out of pocket, and then another part goes. (LED's for example)

Hopefully my 61in will last a bit longer.

I'm starting to just browse the newer TV's. Samsungs bigggest at this time is I believe 75 inch.
Sharp looks to have a 80 in that is getting good reviews.
post #14172 of 14848
I've decided to live with my pain in the left ba##..umm toe issue untill unplugging and plugging back in no longer works.I'll then bite the bullet and buy something new.I just saw a LG plasma for 800 at costco.I'm no video-phile, but nothing compares to our 61" sammy.The picture is awsome when I finnally get it turned on.
post #14173 of 14848
Hey guys, I have a HLT5089S and I'm starting to hear a noise that seems to be getting louder at times. Sounds like when a fan goes bad on a PC so, I'm guessing it is a fan. Does anyone know how many fans are in these TVs and does anyone have any idea what the part numbers are?

Hope this isn't the start of the end for this TV because I don't have the extra money for even a cheap 50" replacement, much less one I'd really enjoy.
post #14174 of 14848
Here is all the info in the service manual about fans:
Quote:
Troubleshooting
6-2 Samsung Electronics
3. Noise:
Internal noise may be caused by a foreign substance on the fan or driving device.
For a DLP TV, the LED fan, DMD board fan and Driver board Fan are vulnerable to noise. Sometimes the connector wire around
the LED or DMD fan makes contact with the fan, When irregular noise occurs for no particular reason, check the inside of the TV
for any foreign substances.
The DLP projection TV may cause noise as the physical screen is empty inside, causing a resonance of a particular frequency.
Thus a low vibration is not a malfunction.
Any 'creaking' noise is mostly from the structure of the device itself. A short, harsh noise may occur from a distortion or
malformation due to thermal expansion between the metal

Not sure if each LED has a fan, but it seems like there are three fans. You are probably safe as long as the fans are working. Sure they may be noisy, but they are at least cooling the parts. I'd be more worried if there was no fan noise. If it is really loud you may just want to open up the back panel and see if you can get to the fan making the noise easily.

Hopefully someone who has done a fix like this will reply as I have yet to open up my set for any reason.

Here are some parts from samsungparts.com:
BP31-00022B
FAN
$22.05
In-Stock Specification
G8025S12B2-AE-WS,K520,BALL,12V,12
FAN-DC / LAMP FAN #2


BP31-00025B
FAN
$24.10
In-Stock Specification
K880 DLP TV(LAUREL),BALL,12V,70MA
FAN

BP31-00025A
FAN
Nationwide BO Specification
G6015S12B2-BA-WS,K520,BALL,12V,70MA,
FAN DMD
post #14175 of 14848
I had a creaking fan recently, took it out, lubed it up and it's back to normal

when i was just in there replacing an LED i disconnected all the fans and gave them a cleaning

there are three, one by the red led, one that blows air over the coils, and one near the dmd board


as nickels55 said, it's good they are still running, just try cleaning them up first and if that doesn't work they are inexpensive to replace


also, you may consider adding another fan...something i have been thinking about doing
post #14176 of 14848
Adding the external fan (seen earlier in this thread, like 1000 pages ago) was the best move I have made next to self-calibrating this set with DVE and AVIA.
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-External-Cooling-AF0007/dp/B002OJN250/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1351024000&sr=8-2&keywords=external+pc+fan

For under $20 you can't beat this fan for helping keep the internals cool. Plus, it is super quiet. Connects cleanly to the side panel and easily connects to the TV's USB port. Whoever thought of this is my hero!
post #14177 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolltide1017 View Post

Hey guys, I have a HLT5089S and I'm starting to hear a noise that seems to be getting louder at times. Sounds like when a fan goes bad on a PC so, I'm guessing it is a fan. Does anyone know how many fans are in these TVs and does anyone have any idea what the part numbers are?
Hope this isn't the start of the end for this TV because I don't have the extra money for even a cheap 50" replacement, much less one I'd really enjoy.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/827799/2007-samsung-led-owners-thread-hlt-xx87-89s/13710#post_19815630

Just found this post going back in the thread - shows location of all the fans.
post #14178 of 14848
Thanks guys with the info about the fans. I was able to determine that it is the fan near the LEDs that is making the noise, opened the back up and used my finger to stop the fan and the noise went away.

Man, there was so much dust when I opened the TV up. I used a vacuum to clean it out, the TV is probably cleaner then it has been in almost 4 years. Wondering if I should try and dust the lens, picture quality looks fine so, I probably shouldn't press my luck. I don't have to remove the lamp engine assembly to replace the fan and I'd hate to damage something.
Edited by rolltide1017 - 10/25/12 at 11:37am
post #14179 of 14848
I wouldn't bother dusting the lens unless you see anything that is projected onto the screen

I have a very small piece of dust that is on my DMD chip...only noticeable when the screen is completely black...it doesn't bother me, so I'm not going to risk getting more dust in there
post #14180 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by sneakking View Post

I wouldn't bother dusting the lens unless you see anything that is projected onto the screen

You won't see dust on the lens projected on the screen since it won't be in focus (just like you don't see dust particles on a camera lens in photos taken with it). The overall image will just be blurrier than it would be with a clean lens.

You can inspect the exposed surface of the lens, without pulling the light engine, by removing either of the circular access covers on the back sides of the set and looking inside the main cavity. Just remove the one screw holding a cover in and it pops out by pulling from the front edge where the screw goes.

You can also inspect the back of the screen through the same openings. Any dust or dirt on the screen will show up, in focus, in the image.
Edited by MLXXXp - 10/26/12 at 6:03am
post #14181 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by MLXXXp View Post

You won't see dust on the lens projected on the screen since it won't be in focus (just like you don't see dust particles on a camera lens in photos taken with it). The overall image will just be blurrier than it would be with a clean lens.
You can inspect the exposed surface of the lens, without pulling the light engine, by removing either of the circular access covers on the back sides of the set and looking inside the main cavity. Just remove the one screw holding a cover in and it pops out by pulling from the front edge where the screw goes.
You can also inspect the back of the screen through the same openings. Any dust or dirt on the screen will show up, in focus, in the image.



the spot i am referring to is about 4 inches in diameter and shows up as a blurred dark gray section only when the screen is 'black', i am assuming it is on the dmd chip, because that's where i had an issue before, although it could be somewhere else



cleaning the fans, boards, heat sinks, and fins of dust is very important and relatively easy....if you miss some dust there, unsettle some dust, or introduce new dust in these areas it won't change your viewing experience


however, cleaning in the chain of light from the LEDs to the screen is a little more tricky, it is very easy to introduce more dust into the area you are trying to clean


if you were to open the access panel and stick a vacuum wand in you could introduce dust, or imagine taking everything apart in the back, cleaning it all out, putting it back together only to turn on the set and have a blurred screen


unless you notice something on the screen that is degrading your viewing experience to the point where you can't stand it, I would be hesitant to do anything that would make it unnecessarily worse
post #14182 of 14848
Yah, I think you're right sneakking, since I don't have to remove the lamp engine to replace the fan I'll just leave it well alone. Long time ago I had to open one of the ports because a large piece of dust was on the back side of the screen, could see it all the time. Reached in the port hole to clean it and bumped the mirror in the process, which caused a nice big smudge market to show through on the screen. Cleaning that was a pain. It almost became this endless circle of cleaning one spot but, making another dirty. I'll just replace the fan when it comes in and stay away from the other stuff... for now.

I will have had this TV for 5 years in February and I hope it will last another 2-3 years.
post #14183 of 14848
Well, last night while watching a movie I encountered the first problem I've had with my HLT-6189. First, the screen suddenly turned a green tint, making me think the red and possibly blue LEDs went out. But immediately after that, the screen started getting darker, almost on a timed interval. Approximately every two seconds, the screen would get darker and darker - not gradually, but in these two second increments until the screen was completely black. Now I have no picture at all. The TV turns on, and I get green light on the front of the TV flashing like it's looking for a signal, then nothing. I called the phone number for the Samsung capacitor class action settlement hoping they'd be able to tell me if these symptoms fit. The person asked if the sound worked, and I told them I had the speakers turned off as I was using sound from my receiver. They said to turn the speakers back on and see if the sound works, and if it doesn't, it's probably the capacitor problem. Well, I've just realized that I have no idea how to turn the speakers on because I can't see the screen.

Does anyone here have a suggestion, or thoughts on what could be the problem? I did read through quite a bit of this thread looking for a simliar description of symptoms, but I didn't find one.
post #14184 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mighty_Ferguson View Post

Well, last night while watching a movie I encountered the first problem I've had with my HLT-6189. First, the screen suddenly turned a green tint, making me think the red and possibly blue LEDs went out. But immediately after that, the screen started getting darker, almost on a timed interval. Approximately every two seconds, the screen would get darker and darker - not gradually, but in these two second increments until the screen was completely black. Now I have no picture at all. The TV turns on, and I get green light on the front of the TV flashing like it's looking for a signal, then nothing. I called the phone number for the Samsung capacitor class action settlement hoping they'd be able to tell me if these symptoms fit. The person asked if the sound worked, and I told them I had the speakers turned off as I was using sound from my receiver. They said to turn the speakers back on and see if the sound works, and if it doesn't, it's probably the capacitor problem. Well, I've just realized that I have no idea how to turn the speakers on because I can't see the screen.
Does anyone here have a suggestion, or thoughts on what could be the problem? I did read through quite a bit of this thread looking for a simliar description of symptoms, but I didn't find one.


read back a page or two

I went through something similar

first my screen went red, so i thought it was just the green led, but then it went dark

i could still see a faint light on the screen if the room was dark, but not enough to see the service menu


i would suggest taking out the LEDs and testing them with a 9v battery or with leads from a cell phone battery

i tested mine and thought it was both the green and the blue that were bad, but it turned out it was only the green

so the screen will go dark if only one LED is bad


if you have any questions or need any help, let me know
post #14185 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by sneakking View Post

read back a page or two
I went through something similar
first my screen went red, so i thought it was just the green led, but then it went dark
i could still see a faint light on the screen if the room was dark, but not enough to see the service menu
i would suggest taking out the LEDs and testing them with a 9v battery or with leads from a cell phone battery
i tested mine and thought it was both the green and the blue that were bad, but it turned out it was only the green
so the screen will go dark if only one LED is bad
if you have any questions or need any help, let me know

Thanks very much, I reread your posts and I don't think it sunk in when I read them the first time that you were experiencing a similar problem with your updates spread across several posts. I'll definitely follow your suggestion and remove the LEDs and test them with a 9v battery. This is out of my area of expertise so I very well may take you up on your offer of help.

Thanks again.
post #14186 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mighty_Ferguson View Post

Thanks very much, I reread your posts and I don't think it sunk in when I read them the first time that you were experiencing a similar problem with your updates spread across several posts. I'll definitely follow your suggestion and remove the LEDs and test them with a 9v battery. This is out of my area of expertise so I very well may take you up on your offer of help.
Thanks again.

no problem

i am by no means an expert so it helped to have the service manual, i forget now where i downloaded mine, but i'm sure it is out there available


it is a good idea to take a photo of each stage as you go along, just in case when putting it back together you forget something, and to keep the screws for each part separated and near the part they go back to


basically, you'll unscrew the back casing first and set those screws aside with it

then there is a tray in the middle of the back that can slide completely out if you take out a couple screws and unhook a couple of cables on each side


once that is loose I would set it on a table top somewhere

then it is a matter of pulling off the big and small connectors that go to each LED, then you should be able to touch the leads of each with a 9v battery

each LED should light up if you have the polarity correct and the LED is still functional, watch your eyes because it can be very bright


i think that is all you have to remove, i removed more to get to the heat sink fins and clean up dust, in fact, i tore the whole thing down to clean out everything, but unless you want to, you don't have to take it that far
post #14187 of 14848
Someone posted the service manual in this thread a few months ago. PM me if you need a copy.
post #14188 of 14848
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

Someone posted the service manual in this thread a few months ago. PM me if you need a copy.

I found the one for the HLT-6187 in this thread, I'm assuming it's close enough to the 6189 for the purposes of removing and testing the LED.

Going to give this a go on Saturday.
post #14189 of 14848
Hello everyone,
I'm new to the forum and I'm looking for some direction on how to fix my HL-T5087SA. I bought the TV cheap in non working condition. The sound works, but there is no picture. I got a hold of a service manual for a HL-T6187SA, which isn't exactly the same, but is very close. According to information in the manual, I found that I was getting a blinking error code from the LED driver (green blinking LED on the board) for the green LED. I ordered a new green LED and am not getting the error code anymore, but I still get no picture. I have checked the voltage from the main power supply board to the SPMS board and am getting 330-360 VDC. I also checked the power from the SPMS to the LED driver board and am getting 15.87v on the three labeled 16v and 11.87v on the on labeled 12v. What the manual doesn't specify is what voltage the LED's should be getting. The voltage I'm measuring to the LED's seems pretty low, generally 1.5-2.5v. I'm not sure if that's because there isn't a picture being generated or if that is the root of the problem. The manual says to put the LED driver in internal mode using switch sw9001, but I don't see a switch there. There is a label for it on the board, but nothing is there. I also would like to mention I have no LED indicators blinking on the front panel either. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
post #14190 of 14848
I read through some of the posts about a red LED problem. While my set is only getting red. Have had a new board replaced and spent a good bit of money on it with no solution. Does anybody have the same problem with a solution.
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