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2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 8

post #211 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnelson2000 View Post

Let me forst start off my saying these sets (HLT6189S) look terrible OTB. Putting it in movie mode makes it much more tolerable, but far from accuate (IMO).

One thing I noticed is it looks like Sammy took away the ability to defeat the 1:1 pixil mapping (overscan). Unless I am missing it in the SM, it appears that is now gone :-(

Eliab will be doing a full calibration within the next 2 weeks. He has one in the lab now and is going through his methodology and madness (a good thing). If not before, I will give my 2 cents as to our findings during the calibration. I am sure Eliab will post something prior based on his fiundings in the lab.

Overall, still a nice set and know if will get better with a accurate cal.


Did I miss something? I thought that the 1:1 pixel mapping was moved from the Service Menu to being accessible in the User Menu. Did I see a reference to "Just Scan" or something earlier in the thread?

edit: Indeed. See page 30 in the user's manual.
post #212 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ten 99 View Post

Not sure, but are you referring to Chromatic Aberration? That's generally an artifact from the lens (as you mentioned).

Yes, that's what we call it in astronomy with non-apochromatic refractor type lenses. What I am seeing is definitely not chromatic aberration, it's RBE.

-Bryan

EDIT: The issue that looks like a mis-convergence on the top of my screen might be a form of chromatic aberration. It's hard to tell since they share very similar characteristics.
post #213 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ten 99 View Post

Did I miss something? I thought that the 1:1 pixel mapping was moved from the Service Menu to being accessible in the User Menu. Did I see a reference to "Just Scan" or something earlier in the thread?

edit: Indeed. See page 30 in the user's manual.

Yes, "just scan" is a user mode selection that enables 1:1 mapping. I use it when playing the XBox 360 in 1080P mode, and it makes a noticable difference compared to standard 16:9 mode.
post #214 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ten 99 View Post

Not sure, but are you referring to Chromatic Aberration?

Yes! Now how am I going to remember that?

Thanks.
post #215 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by StuckeyBoss View Post

I just remeasured my TV stand. Its the Bush 97850-03 stand. Its 24". I will put my hl-t5089, 50" Samsung on it. Does anyone think this will be to high ? I just know that the 17" stand I saw at the store seemed way to low.


Anyone ??
post #216 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morseth View Post

Yes, "just scan" is a user mode selection that enables 1:1 mapping. I use it when playing the XBox 360 in 1080P mode, and it makes a noticable difference compared to standard 16:9 mode.

Yeah, I just noticed that. Thanks. Using the overscan pattern, it does indeed reduce to 0% with HDMI only.
post #217 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morseth View Post

Yes, "just scan" is a user mode selection that enables 1:1 mapping. I use it when playing the XBox 360 in 1080P mode, and it makes a noticable difference compared to standard 16:9 mode.

You're able to use "just scan" in vga mode? Or are you using component cables? I thought it was disabled for vga mode.

Thanks Morseth.
post #218 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnelson2000 View Post

Let me forst start off my saying these sets (HLT6189S) look terrible OTB. Putting it in movie mode makes it much more tolerable, but far from accuate (IMO).

Care to elaborate on such a heavy handed opinion?

Your initial impression:
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnelson2000 View Post

I owned the hls6188 for 2 weeks and had major issues with the sceen, light engine, etc. If I had to choose, I would definately go with the HLT6189S over the HLS6188. The frame around the screen is much sturdier than the HLS series. No smudges :-), colors are very vibrant. Contrast is 100% better than last years LED sets.

Only menu items I changed is putting it in Movie Mode. Too late to fiddle with the other settings so that will just wait.

After a few movies, HD Sat, DVD, etc, I woulds say this is a very solid set OTB. Of course, I will get the full skinny when I get this calibrated (which will be the week of 4/16).

Seems to contradict your last post entirely. So what's changed?

Thanks jnelson2000.
post #219 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kagaden View Post

You're able to use "just scan" in vga mode? Or are you using component cables? I thought it was disabled for vga mode.

It allows me to use it with the Component inputs at 1080P.
post #220 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kagaden View Post

Care to elaborate on such a heavy handed opinion?

Comparing colors and grayscale to SMTPE standard accuracy. OTB it looks a lot better in Movie mode. However, as with previous models (not just Sammy), if you are looking for accuate SMTPE coordinates, a pro calibration would be needed.

It is more than watchable OTB in movie mode. Just depends on how "accuate" you want the set to perform at.
post #221 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnelson2000 View Post

Yeah, I just noticed that. Thanks. Using the overscan pattern, it does indeed reduce to 0% with HDMI only.

Really, 0%? No optical overscan whatsoever?
post #222 of 14847
Seems to me that any RPTV must have some overscan in 1:1 pixel map mode. I suspect the just mode is an underscan to get the whole picture on screen.
post #223 of 14847
[quote=Kagaden]Care to elaborate on such a heavy handed opinion?
LL
LL
LL
post #224 of 14847
one addition of smtpe color coordinate measurements.
LL
post #225 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by LesMoss View Post

Seems to me that any RPTV must have some overscan in 1:1 pixel map mode. I suspect the just mode is an underscan to get the whole picture on screen.

it doesn't turn overscan off, just feeds the set the native HD content. In so many words, you are correct. However, my 1080i overscan pattern shows all sides at 0
post #226 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnelson2000 View Post

one addition of smtpe color coordinate measurements.

Thanks for providing the measurements. I might try measuring mine tonight or tomorrow.

What picture mode and color tone settings did you use for the measurements you provided? Do you have all the other frills turned off (DNIe, etc)?

I set mine to Movie and Warm1, and turned off all of the automatic settings like DNIe, then did an Avia/DVE visual calibration. Without calibrating with my colorimeter, these settings seem most pleasing to my eyes.
post #227 of 14847
Everthing default except changed to movie mode.
post #228 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnelson2000 View Post

Everthing default except changed to movie mode.

OK, thanks. That explains some of it then. I think the default is either cool1 or cool2, which visually looked way to blue to me.
post #229 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morseth View Post

OK, thanks. That explains some of it then. I think the default is either cool1 or cool2, which visually looked way to blue to me.

default in Movie is Warm 2
post #230 of 14847
Well I just lost this post, so I'll try it again. I wanted to go back to the RBE. Not everyone discovers RBE and when they do it doesn't last long, probably two weeks at the most. You can only see it by shifting your eyes quickly and most people don't do that when watching TV. It could become a habit or a game to try and find it but it eventually goes away. It reminds me of an optical illusion since it is there I guess technically but you don't see it under normal circumstances. RBE should be much less noticeable with LEDs.
post #231 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnelson2000 View Post

default in Movie is Warm 2

My apologies. Thanks for the correction. I'm not home right now, so I couldn't verify the settings. I guess my memory is not what it used to be

I'm going to do some more tweaking tonight. I'm looking forward to it.
post #232 of 14847
I am so confused by all these acronyms. I will post pics once I receive my 5087S later this week or early next.
post #233 of 14847
gtunney, i totally feel your pain. i currently have a 61" JVC HDILA TV, and i love it. However, its not 1080p, so I have been looking for the "next big thing" in 61" TVs in 1080p, and was hoping this LED DLP was it. I wish Circuit City and Best Buy would get some in stock so I can test the rainbows on my own. Maybe I will get lucky and the blink rate of the LEDs will be faster than the refresh rate of my eyeballs! Otherwise, it will be LCOS-type technology all the way for me. Aside from a little jumpiness on panning scenes with dark/light colors, and a bit of noise, LCOS is by far the best for me right now.
post #234 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnelson2000 View Post

one addition of smtpe color coordinate measurements.

Thanks for the charts jnelson2000, I'm looking forward to what they're at once the set is calibrated if you'd be so kind.

Also, a run of them after DVE would be helpful also if you're planning to do one. I'm curious how much of this is correctable with a user level calibration.
post #235 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtunney View Post

You sound just like me. I can walk around our office building and tell whose CRT monitors are running at 60Hz. I had the HP MD5880 for their 3 week trial period. Absolutely loved the picture and overall performance but the RBE gave me headaches and at times made me feel nauseated.

To date, I've been underwhelmed by LCD and plasma for a variety of reasons while like you very impressed with the sharpness of DLP. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed. It'll be about a month before I'm in a position to buy so hopefully one of the HLT LEDs will be on display in my area by then and it will be sufficiently comfortable for me to go with.

Is that a good test for RBE to see if one can see the flicker of 60 Hz on a CRT computer monitor? I can def. notice this, esp. from my peripheral vision. So if that is an "equivalent test", then I guess I'd be better off going w/ the LED and not the lamp version. Or maybe I'm just upselling myself to the higher model.
post #236 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by beowulf7 View Post

Is that a good test for RBE to see if one can see the flicker of 60 Hz on a CRT computer monitor? I can def. notice this, esp. from my peripheral vision. So if that is an "equivalent test", then I guess I'd be better off going w/ the LED and not the lamp version. Or maybe I'm just upselling myself to the higher model.

It's not related.
post #237 of 14847
Pincushion info on the HLT6189?

I'm looking to order an HLT6189 to replace a 6188 that I currently have. I like the 6188 a lot except for the excessive pincushion distortion. It's more than a 1/2" and out of Samsung's specs (Samsung is replacing it for free). Since most broadcasts are the 4:3 ratio, I definite prefer to watch them in 4:3 ratio with the black bars on the sides. This makes the inwards pincushion very noticeable.

I checked a lot of other Samsung DLPs in stores and compared then to other brands (Hitachi, Sony, Mitsubishi). The Samsungs seem to have a problem in this area. Any word on whether pincushion on the LED based HLT6189 is any better?

Also, do you loose any color accuracy or contrast with the LEDs units compared with the excellent lamp based 6188?

Thanks.
post #238 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by donabel View Post

Pincushion info on the HLT6189?

I'm looking to order an HLT6189 to replace a 6188 that I currently have. I like the 6188 a lot except for the excessive pincushion distortion. It's more than a 1/2" and out of Samsung's specs (Samsung is replacing it for free). Since most broadcasts are the 4:3 ratio, I definite prefer to watch them in 4:3 ratio with the black bars on the sides. This makes the inwards pincushion very noticeable.

I checked a lot of other Samsung DLPs in stores and compared then to other brands (Hitachi, Sony, Mitsubishi). The Samsungs seem to have a problem in this area. Any word on whether pincushion on the LED based HLT6189 is any better?

My pincusion in 4:3 material is less than 1/8" on each side. It's so small I can barely measure it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by donabel View Post

Also, do you loose any color accuracy or contrast with the LEDs units compared with the excellent lamp based 6188?

I don't believe you lose any color accuracy. If I remember correctly, last year's HL-S5679W RP LED calibrated more accurately than its bulb based counterparts. Hopefully, the same will hold true this year.

Contrast on my 6189S seems to be fantastic, so no worries there.
post #239 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by hubbabubba View Post

I noticed the small led light in the front lower cabinet, is there a way of turning that off?

A 2" piece of Black electrical tape will work wonders.
post #240 of 14847
Quote:
Originally Posted by gxer View Post

Uh Oh...I purchased a great looking (built like a brick outhouse ) heavy custom TV stand from someone who didn't have room for it in his new house and it is 32" tall, 24" deep and 63" wide. I thought I had the ideal stand for a Samsung HL-T6189S but I guess I don't, it will be too tall based on what has been said about viewing height. Do I forget about rear projection sets and go LCD or Plasma instead?

If your stand is too tall it is possible to place the TV at a slight forward angle. If you tilt the set about 3 degrees forward there should be no issues.
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