or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › 2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 197

post #5881 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Ecstasy View Post

Funny that you guys should mention these noise issues with the Samsung DLP's. I bought my first BluRay movie for my PS3 and in dark scenes, I see nothing but noise all over the place. I was pretty disappointed because I assumed even being projection that this noise would be gone. Now i'm debating if these is correctable at all? Or if I need to just exchange it and go with a smaller LCD? Wondering if that will correct the issue? My needs were never for a big tv, but for the money it made it seem worth it.

What settings do you guys suggest on the PS3 and TV? HL-T5687S, PS3 connected with HDMI Precision 800 HDMI cables.

Is there any possibilities to remove the noise or is this just "The way it is"..?


I was able to eliminate most "noise" on mine.. though I still wonder if it has the same pop as the Sony, it certainly looks better. Alot of BluRay discs have noise .. like the 300.. that movie isnt a good gauge.. try something like "wild" from disney, just as a test (yes the movie wasnt great but the visuals are wowoish in a few parts)..

For me .. eliminating noise was the result of switching to movie mode with a bunch of tweaks to the settings (i didnt like movie mode before).. a few posts/pages back I listed my settings.. still awaiting on Talbain to list his settings to see how they compare to mine.. granted these numbers vary from set to set, but it may be a good starting point or way to see if your noise gets cleaned up.
post #5882 of 14846
Can you list your setting for Movie mode to eliminate noise? Appreciate it.
post #5883 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesK1d View Post

Mine does not have that problem but it has others. Sets with NO problems are the holy grail =P

have u ever used Kagaden's test image?? What other problems does ur set have?
post #5884 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlbowerts View Post

Rainbow effect (RBE) is what it sounds like , some see rainbows on pic of DLP sets, it's nothing wrong with these sets, it's just with this tech, some can see it, some see it more than others, but most don't see it at all, I'm sure not the best way to put it , but it's getting late, so best i can do rigth now.


I found out what RBE was after asking the question and it is definitely not RBE. It is prism/halo that appears in the lower centre of the screen. It gives off the color purple and is very noticeable in dark screens. There are a few screen shot examples posted a few pages back (300 & Pirates of the Caribbean) and mine looks exactly like that. It is not something that you have to look for in my case, it sticks out like a sore thumb.

BTW - My build date is from may of this year. I will post the exact date when I am home.
post #5885 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by wopino View Post

have u ever used Kagaden's test image?? What other problems does ur set have?

No I have not used the test image. I don't want to go looking for it so it can bug me forever. I have looked for it in normal watching and no matter what movie/source/game I have displayed, the halo prism has not been seen whatsoever. Mine has some geometry issues on the upper right as well as the upper left quarter being less focused than the rest. Now with the new firmware (some tech said some geometry issues may be corrected by this so I figured "Why not?") it does this weird brightness up and down thing as different brightness content is displayed. If white text is displayed, the whole rest of the picture dims while it is on screen. When its gone, the light output goes back up. Annoying.
post #5886 of 14846
Okay I have the 5687 and firmware 1018. I tried to run the PS3 at 1080 at 24 FPS last night and the picture is all messed up (middle one-third of the picture horizontally is out of sync with the upper and lower thirds). Can some explain to me why 24 FPS is so important cause I would like to get the firmware upgrade but I don't want to do it if its going to do what is happen with BluesK1d's set.
post #5887 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Ecstasy View Post

Funny that you guys should mention these noise issues with the Samsung DLP's. I bought my first BluRay movie for my PS3 and in dark scenes, I see nothing but noise all over the place. I was pretty disappointed because I assumed even being projection that this noise would be gone. Now i'm debating if these is correctable at all? Or if I need to just exchange it and go with a smaller LCD? Wondering if that will correct the issue? My needs were never for a big tv, but for the money it made it seem worth it.

What settings do you guys suggest on the PS3 and TV? HL-T5687S, PS3 connected with HDMI Precision 800 HDMI cables.

Is there any possibilities to remove the noise or is this just "The way it is"..?

If you ever watch a Blu-Ray or HD DVD on a computer with a nice monitor, you will see they are not what you should be using to test noise. They all have some to varying degrees. Do you notice noise in dark areas of your games on the PS3? If not, don't blame the TV.
post #5888 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrbigvolume View Post

The Halo prism issue. Is this will all sets or is this with a certain percentage. Please chime in if you have a set without the halo prism issue. Thanks

Mine doesn't appear to have the halo prism issue...I've looked for annoying blue blobs and don't seem to have any. Mine just has a pattern across the screen when up close that I'll get checked out, along with a small scratch in the very top right corner, and a few spots of dust on the inside of the screen. Nothing is visible when at the actual distance though. I'm still waiting for Samsung to identify a new service center here in San Diego (you'd think they'd have a few). The old one is no longer under Samsung and I'm glad...I was not impressed with their repairs of my prior HL-S.
post #5889 of 14846
@Pocket Aces. I am with you man. I was going to update the firmware first thing to get 24p with the PS3, but if it messes the TV up I am not going to do it and I can live without 24p. I have read elsewhere that people cannot tell the difference. Anyone else wanna chime in?
post #5890 of 14846
RBE is when you notice a red blue green rainbow effect - a micro-second flash of those colors caused by quick eye movement. I can see it on my LED DLP.

If you have Direct TV an easy way to see if your susceptible - Not all can see it - is go to one of the music channels (XM) Look at the right side of the blue rectangle and jerk your eye focus from the top to the bottom lines of the rectangle. I can easily see RBE by doing this. My son and a friend could not!
post #5891 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesK1d View Post

If you ever watch a Blu-Ray or HD DVD on a computer with a nice monitor, you will see they are not what you should be using to test noise. They all have some to varying degrees. Do you notice noise in dark areas of your games on the PS3? If not, don't blame the TV.

I haven't noticed any dark area grains or noise on my PS3 games. Only my Mission Impossible 3 Blu Ray disc I've watched. I bought the Mission Impossible Blu Ray Pack so maybe I could try the others.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pocket Aces View Post

Okay I have the 5687 and firmware 1018. I tried to run the PS3 at 1080 at 24 FPS last night and the picture is all messed up (middle one-third of the picture horizontally is out of sync with the upper and lower thirds). Can some explain to me why 24 FPS is so important cause I would like to get the firmware upgrade but I don't want to do it if its going to do what is happen with BluesK1d's set.

How did you get an updated firmware for the tv? I looked all over Samsung.com and couldn't find anything.
post #5892 of 14846
Both are linked in this thread. At home I have 1025 and 1026 sitting on my desktop. Just not sure if I am going to use them. If I get the TV and everything is perfect...I am not going to touch anything.
post #5893 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Ecstasy View Post



How did you get an updated firmware for the tv? I looked all over Samsung.com and couldn't find anything.

I don't have it yet. My TV came with version 1018. Samsung isn't going to have firmware just sitting in on their site. I am sure there are compatibility issues between older sets and newer firmware versions that could cause major problems so it would be pretty dumb for them to do so. This might be the case between TVs that had 1017 or older trying to go to 1025 or newer as BluesK1d has a rather odd issue right now.
post #5894 of 14846
Okay i'm playing Rainbow Six right now on PS3. With game mode Sports on, the picture looks great. With Adventure, or Off, the picture looks real dark and grainy. Well not so much grainy but sloppy I should say. The colors seem to bleed, where as with Sports, the color is brighter and cleaner.
post #5895 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Ecstasy View Post

Okay i'm playing Rainbow Six right now on PS3. With game mode Sports on, the picture looks great. With Adventure, or Off, the picture looks real dark and grainy.

I used movie mode on my xbox 360.. then set it to game mode (standard).. I thought this one looked best with my config (i think).
post #5896 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Ecstasy View Post

Okay i'm playing Rainbow Six right now on PS3. With game mode Sports on, the picture looks great. With Adventure, or Off, the picture looks real dark and grainy.

Do you set your PS3 to 720p max on Rainbow 6? I find that the 1080i setting is totally messed up on that game. Its also one of the worse ported games I have ever seen.
post #5897 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham5280 View Post

Hello,

BB just delivered my HLT6187 set yesterday. I was hoping I wouldn't end up with the prism problem.

Based on my pictures I took last night, is this below average, average, or worse than others have experienced?

"300" DVD via component cables. Also noticeable on Dish HD via HDMI.

How much prism should I expect and accept? Are there sets out there that have absolutley no prism effect?

Thanks


Mine looks exactly like the pictures you posted (using the same movie as an example). I am attaching one of your photos again because this is the EXACT same pattern I see on my screen at different times. It appears this visable also.
LL
post #5898 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pocket Aces View Post

Do you set your PS3 to 720p max on Rainbow 6? I find that the 1080i setting is totally messed up on that game. Its also one of the worse ported games I have ever seen.

Nope mine's set to 1080p.
post #5899 of 14846



Images of my 61" with the test pattern with no major prism issues... it is there VERY dim, can barely even see it using the test pattern - but when watching any scene, black, lots of white with black at the bottom etc... I NEVER see it - and after reading about it here time and time again - I am looking for it, which kind of ruins the pleasure of watching media on this unit. When you read about issues, all you end up doing is looking for them.

The only problem I have is a shimmer effect on HD programming. Shows on vertical lines that are close together at time + when moving... My cable provider was out and said my signal level was great - so I have no idea what it is.

As for my geometry - I would say its 95% perfect. The top is near perfect, the bottom is perfect, and sides are near perfect... probably as good as it will get.
post #5900 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

24hz or 24p.. which exact model do you have.. are you referring to the PS3? The ps3 will show 24hz.. but any other bluray player will show 60hz.

24p is displayed on the tv when playing bd back via ps3
post #5901 of 14846
Anthoneya. Sorry for the stupid question but what do you hit to get the test pattern? I will have my TV delivered Friday and I want to do this while the delivery guy was there. Thanks
post #5902 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post


Here are those settings I've been using :

Dynamic
Cont=87
Bright=53
Sharp=20
Color=42
Tint G52
Color Tone Normal
Digital NR = auto
DNIe=on
Active color=on
Color Gamut=RGB or WIDE


ok, 5689s with the following:

Movie
Cont=70
Bright=46
Sharp=35
Color=65
Tint G51
Tone=Warm2
NR=off
DNIe=off
Active Color=off
Gamut=sRGB


detailed settings has everything set to default or off with the exception of gamma, which i'm still testing. The final setting for that will be either 0, +1 or +2. also i haven't messed with the black enhancer or whatever it's called, but that shows some promise. right now the black levels seem just about perfect.

still very much a work in progress, but all of my test discs and patterns (Avia, DVE, S&V, HQV, HDNet, etc) agree that these are optimal.

here's a great tip to eyeball black levels: david letterman during latenight tends to wear dark suits. record the hd broadcast and test your black levels by looking for details in the folds of the fabric in his suits...

i'll have updates if anything changes, but right now this is just about perfect...
post #5903 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrbigvolume View Post

Anthoneya. Sorry for the stupid question but what do you hit to get the test pattern? I will have my TV delivered Friday and I want to do this while the delivery guy was there. Thanks

I think he's got either a jpg loaded using the USB port or he's got a calibration DVD of some sort. I don't believe the Samsung has any built in test screens unless they are in the hidden in the service menu. BTW what are you going to reject the TV based on cause some of the things can be fixed by a onsite technician. I have one coming out to fix some slight tilt I am seeing.
post #5904 of 14846
the test pattern is 'somewhere' in this LONG thread... do a quick search and you will find it - I think it was called HLT test pattern. Saved it and loaded it onto my usb stick and put it in the WISELINK... This one was created by a member to work specifically with this unit I believe... if you don't see it with this test pattern then you will never see it. Mine is VERY dim - little to not even visible - the way it should be I guess. Maybe they can not get it 100%...but I would say mine is 95% hidden +

There is hope out there, if you can get one with little to no geometry issues, and little to no prism issues - you have an amazing set - better then the SONY A3000...

If anyone can help me with the 'shimmering' I see on vertical lines in HD (CSI Miami buildings with windows, shirts with lots of lines, tennis net (top of the net) etc... it bugs me and I don't think its the tv...

Also - is there any difference in using toslink to send audio to my receiver VS using coaxial? I only have 2 toslink and 2 coaxial digital in... (I know it is not Samsung HLT related - but help me out...)
post #5905 of 14846
I wanted to like the HL-T5689. First I liked the concept of the LED light source as I've had three large screen DLPs(one with a recent light replacement) and second I wanted the bluetooth feature that would allow me to connect to a bluetooth hearing aid. AND even after reading the posts regarding smudges, dark spots, halos, and distortions I was willing to give them a try. But then I saw three 87s at Frys and noticed that these set had a VERY bluish tint and the color saturation was washed out and the contrast was poor. I was able to play with the controls (using a Samsung conventional DLP set next to it as a comparison) and could NOT get the set to look even close to satisfactory. Maybe I don' t know how to adjust the set. Maybe all three of these set were defective. Maybe my eyes are deceiving me and the 87 is correct and the older model is off. Anyway, what I am interested in is has there been any professional evaluations and comparisons of these machines? Does anyone else have the same experience?
post #5906 of 14846
I think alot of people have differing views on what satisfactory pictures look like. I like mine just fine out of the box but I have only had it for a 5 days and really haven't messed with it much. IMO professionals have the same differing views. I don't really trust the 'experts' at all cause they like everyone are out to make a buck and will act like they know whats going on half the time when they really haven't done all the research on say a particular television to really know. All I can say is I am happy. Now I just need the tech to come out and fix my tilt issue and possibly upgrade to the 1026 firmware and I will be an extremely happy camper.

BTW the ambient lighting in a store vs your own home will be totally different which will definitely affect the appearance of the screen. Like when you use a camera to take pictures with the flash on and off.
post #5907 of 14846
Instances of rainbow effect, assuming that's what it is, has been rare on my LED DLP and at the same time it's also shows up on my Sony CRT set. Clothing and ties with sharply contrasting patterns seem to provoke it with camera needed at the right angle. Does this sound a little odd or quite common with a lot of people?
post #5908 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pocket Aces View Post

I think he's got either a jpg loaded using the USB port or he's got a calibration DVD of some sort. I don't believe the Samsung has any built in test screens unless they are in the hidden in the service menu. BTW what are you going to reject the TV based on cause some of the things can be fixed by a onsite technician. I have one coming out to fix some slight tilt I am seeing.

you don't need that image, just switch to an unused input (where you get the big blue rectangle in the middle of the screen) and you ought to be able to see the prism then as well.

Here are two examples, very little prism visible during normal viewing, but crank up the exposure to 2 seconds and boom, there it is: that's what makes me think that the prism happens in ALL sets, just that for some reason it's more evident in some rather than others (better light-fastness of some component?)
LL
LL
post #5909 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by wdreamsmaycome View Post

you don't need that image, just switch to an unused input (where you get the big blue rectangle in the middle of the screen) and you ought to be able to see the prism then as well.

Here are two examples, very little prism visible during normal viewing, but crank up the exposure to 2 seconds and boom, there it is: that's what makes me think that the prism happens in ALL sets, just that for some reason it's more evident in some rather than others (better light-fastness of some component?)

I will have to double check that screen tonight. I don't think I have the prism cause I think I would have noticed something like that.
What do you mean crank up the exposure? You mean on the camera? Have you tried doing the 2 second exposure with the camera on a steady surface? I am pretty sure it is in all sets as you say and some just have it more severe than others obviously.
post #5910 of 14846
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pocket Aces View Post

I will have to double check that screen tonight. I don't think I have the prism cause I think I would have noticed something like that.

take a digital camera, put the exposure at 2+ seconds, I bet you'll see it in your set as well. On the other hand maybe it's better not knowing, so you won't spend time looking for it while watching normal programming...

By crank up the exposure I mean go into M mode (manual, hopefully your camera has it), and put it at something like f/4 aperture and 2-3 seconds exposure. If you can't set your camera in manual mode it'll be kind of pointless as if you increase the exposure the camera will just open up the aperture to compensate...

I also think that POTC shot is about the worst-case scenario for prism, as it has a brightly lit screen all around and black right in the middle: that is probably a scene that will bring out prism in most sets I would think.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › 2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S)