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2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 233

post #6961 of 14458
Perhaps one of you guys would know -

I hooked up a my oppo 98H to the TV via HDMI and the used an optic cable from TV audio out to my AVR audio in.

With this set-up when watching regular TV channels, I get sound from my surround speakers BUT when I play a DVD I don't.

I subsequently ran a coax cable from the OPPO to the AVR and now get sound to my HT speakers.

Is there something, in my set-up that needs to be changed so I don't need the coax cable?
post #6962 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Abrams View Post

Greetings,

As many of your know, Eliab and I have been traveling the country calibrating many of these displays. During our procedure we have been updating the firmware, when necessary, in order to achieve the increased functionality/stability that comes with an update. That said, I had my first 'software update' failure occur yesterday. The set recognized the firmware, asked if I wanted to update it, and we continued. At about 45% through the update process, the display had an error message stating that the USB device could not be found, it then went black for approximately three minutes and turned itself off. This was unrecoverable.

The USB drive has been checked and verified to be ok. This particular drive has been used on other HL-T displays to update the firmware as is. Please be aware that even if you have used the drive before to update the firmware on a display, it could still fail - updating firmware is at your own risk.

Anyhow, I just wanted to give you all a heads up.

Good Pictures!

Dave

curious, since no one else has inquired...how did you handle this?
post #6963 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by bahamabart View Post

... I hooked up a my oppo 98H to the TV via HDMI and the used an optic cable from TV audio out to my AVR audio in.

With this set-up when watching regular TV channels, I get sound from my surround speakers BUT when I play a DVD I don't.

I subsequently ran a coax cable from the OPPO to the AVR and now get sound to my HT speakers.

Is there something, in my set-up that needs to be changed so I don't need the coax cable?

This has been extensively discussed in this thread.

Currently you need the coax or optical cable from the OPPO to the AVR for DVD sound.

Samsung takes the postion that they may not pass thru audio on the TV because of HDMI/HDCP. Many in this thread think Samsung is wrong and should fix this by a firmware update.

Avio
post #6964 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by bahamabart View Post

Perhaps one of you guys would know -

I hooked up a my oppo 98H to the TV via HDMI and the used an optic cable from TV audio out to my AVR audio in.

With this set-up when watching regular TV channels, I get sound from my surround speakers BUT when I play a DVD I don't.

I subsequently ran a coax cable from the OPPO to the AVR and now get sound to my HT speakers.

Is there something, in my set-up that needs to be changed so I don't need the coax cable?

Info here and what you can do about it http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post11409693

more at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post11829088.
post #6965 of 14458
I have the 6187 and was wondering if SD was supposed to be automatically upconverted by the TV. My SD quality is very poor from what it used to be with a Hitachi 53" RPTV. Are there any settings that make the SD look better? HD looks awesome, but I just don't get enough channels in HD, so I need to make the SD look a little better. I thought this TV upconverted everything, but I didn't read one word about it in the owners manual.
post #6966 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by dinokath View Post

I mentioned to the tech today that I read here that Samsung is out of light engines. He said he knows they are NOT out of light engines but Samsung has issued a directive that all other components be replaced before they authorize a light engine swap. A light engine costs $1200-$1300. I mentioned the DMD board and he said that is the first thing they have been told to replace. He said he is pretty sure that Samsung is getting tired of having to drop $1200 on a repair. He said he should have an answer for me by Tuesday.

I will post follow up. I trust Samsung will do the right thing, eh?

Well, it's their own fault for having to drop $1200 so often on repairs. You have to think they'd do something in the production of this series by now to avoid this halo issue.
post #6967 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avio View Post

This has been extensively discussed in this thread.

Currently you need the coax or optical cable from the OPPO to the AVR for DVD sound.

Samsung takes the postion that they may not pass thru audio on the TV because of HDMI/HDCP. Many in this thread think Samsung is wrong and should fix this by a firmware update.

Avio

Thanks - appreciate the response.
post #6968 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despacio View Post

Well, it's their own fault for having to drop $1200 so often on repairs. You have to think they'd do something in the production of this series by now to avoid this halo issue.

Even if the MSRP on the light engine is $1,200 - they get the old one back and probably refurbish them in-house to be used as replacements going forward. I don't think it truly costs them $1,200 for each repair
post #6969 of 14458
Right click the image.. Save Target as.. to save locally, full size and all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Here is one more image.. black:
http://remotelypossible.info/images/...erns/black.jpg

Also.. for all those needing the firmware.. i've placed two zip files out here:

If this is against forum rules let me know and i'll edit this line to say, pm me for the links:
http://remotelypossible.info/images/firmware/1025.zip
http://remotelypossible.info/images/firmware/1026.zip

Just to be clear, in order to view these test patterns, I do the following:
1. Copy the jpg files to a thumb drive.
2. Insert the thumb drive into the USB port on my HLT6189S.
3. Select the USB source with my remote.
Is this correct?
post #6970 of 14458
Just got my replacement HiDef digital DVR cable box from Time Warner (my previous died DCT6400 died Monday night). Hooked me up with a brand new out of the box replacement Motorola DCH6416 box...and the picture looked horrible. Thinking that something went wrong with my HLT over the past few days. The tech tested the signal strength from the coax cable...and it was fine.

So...the tech whipped out a new box from the van and the picture was wonderful. The DCH looks so much better than my DCT.

What this tells me is that the picture quality depends much on the input feed it receives....and I had a defective box. So if any of you are having difficulties...make sure to have you cable guy come out to test the lines and cable box. Asking to swap out the box.
post #6971 of 14458
DapCorderman,

Eliab and I are truly blessed to have some of the best clients out there. The gentleman who's set was bricked was a repeat client and a software engineer - he was extremely understanding of the situation. With that in mind, we are going to work with him in expediting the repair of the display. When the display is in working order, I will be flying back out to his area, at no additional charge, to calibrate the display.

Good Pictures!

Dave
post #6972 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Also.. for all those needing the firmware.. i've placed two zip files out here:

If this is against forum rules let me know and i'll edit this line to say, pm me for the links:
http://remotelypossible.info/images/firmware/1025.zip
http://remotelypossible.info/images/firmware/1026.zip

Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that there are two series of firmware. One is for xx87 and another for xx89 models. The ones that you provided are for the xx87 only. Does anyone have the latest xx89 firmware? Also, does anyone know what happens if you try to load firmware for the wrong model?
post #6973 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by EdN View Post

Right click the image.. Save Target as.. to save locally, full size and all.
Just to be clear, in order to view these test patterns, I do the following:
1. Copy the jpg files to a thumb drive.
2. Insert the thumb drive into the USB port on my HLT6189S.
3. Select the USB source with my remote.
Is this correct?

Exactly. Select WiseLink on your remote and then you can view each one in turn.

Just tried it and found slight (1-3%) overscan on each side. The grid is also useful to see any bowing in or out. And any tilting.

I suppose I need to get into the service manual to adjust these. No takers on where to download it? Even for a fee?

Bob
post #6974 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWalker View Post

Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe that there are two series of firmware. One is for xx87 and another for xx89 models. The ones that you provided are for the xx87 only. Does anyone have the latest xx89 firmware? Also, does anyone know what happens if you try to load firmware for the wrong model?

You are correct; there are two series of firmware; one for 87; one for 89. The files you are referring to are for the xx87 NOT THE xx89.

My prior post, copied below answers your other question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Avio View Post

Here's how to determine your firmware version:

Firmware version accessible thru User Menu; No need to access Service Menu
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...u#post11346658

Samsung has not posted any firmware for the HLTxx87S or HLTxx89S on their PUBLIC access website. If you contact Samsung, and speak with a Level 2 Tech, they can give you a link to update your firmware or they can send you a USB thumb drive with the newer firmware.

There are at least two posts in this thread to xx87 series firmware. However I have not seen any posts or links to xx89 firmware in this thread.

I have an HLT5689S with 1011 firmware. Apparently versions 1014 and 1016 exist, but I do not know of any source except from Samsung.

Also, I think if you try to use the xx87 firmware on the xx89 it just will not work. I have examined the files in the zipped package for the xx87 and it seems to contain various checks for this. The 87 has one code name [T-LAURAUS0]; the 89 has a different name.

Avio
post #6975 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfischer View Post

Even if the MSRP on the light engine is $1,200 - they get the old one back and probably refurbish them in-house to be used as replacements going forward. I don't think it truly costs them $1,200 for each repair

How much do you think it costs to send a repairman out 2 or 3 times and install a part that doesn't fix the problem. I would think that $1200 would be cheap compared to that if it fixes the problem the first time.
post #6976 of 14458
I take it, then, that Eliab would've updated the firmware on my Samsung 5087 if it had been necessary?

BTW, Eliab did an outstanding job on calibrating my set. I'm loving this set more than ever, which I hadn't thought possible.
post #6977 of 14458
Hi guys, I am new here and am trying to learn from you all. I just hooked up a new HLT6189S a couple of days ago. So far so good, Just trying to learn about calibration right now.
In reference to the firmware....My set was just built on 9-30-2007. Would it have the latest firmware? How do I check which version it has?
post #6978 of 14458
Hey all,

I pulled the trigger on a 6187S after deciding for a while. Anyways, it's coming Monday, I'm praying for no halo issues though odds don't seem good from all the reads.

Anyways, I need to get a new stand and was looking for recommendations. Trying to get something black to match TV and other furniture. I'm looking at the Bush VS74962 which is real nice. Someone mentioned BB runs sales on it every now and then and price drop is big.

One further question is what height should TV be at? That stands is 23", with the TV that would be center of picture at like 44" (half of TV height plus ~2" for base). That seems high to me. Laying / reclining in my couch puts me at ~30" from ground, so I'd always be looking up at TV to reach center. Is that normal? I've seen stands as low as 18" which would help, but I dunno, maybe this is a bigger deal than I'm making it, just don't want to darken the picture from lower vertical angle.
post #6979 of 14458
Hey there,

For those of you who own the HLT5689S, I'm sure you are aware of that whining sound whenever a new channel loads. This sound seems to disappear when you change channels but then comes back once the picture is back. I'm just curious if this whining sound is supposed to stay while watching t.v. I can hardly hear this sound when the volume is on. I have to pay attention to hear it, but if your volume is low it can be heard. Whenever I turn my ps3 on, and just stay on the cross media bar (xmb) with my volume on mute, I can clearly hear this continuous whining sound. The noise can be also heard during playing a game. If the game is loading and a black screen is present, then the sound is gone, but once an image is shown, the sound comes back. Do you all experience this whining sound during the situations I mentioned? Remember that it is not a loud sound, but with low volume or on mute it can be clearly heard. Shall I be worried and call a tech? I have 30 days to keep my t.v, therefore I want to make sure I do not have a problem that can become more serious in the future. I would appreciate any input that any of you have.

Thank you
post #6980 of 14458
without going through 233 pages, are there any links for reviews on the LED engine vs bulb? we have a 56" bulb dlp 2007 model. and now Im looking at a 61" for another room, thinking maybe LED this time?

I could care less about lifespan, 2 DLP tvs over 6 years and never blown a bulb. if it happens, Ill deal with it.

I dont care about start up, sure itll be nice, but its not the reason Im buying a TV so I wont make a choice based on it.

I want the TV with the best picture. I dont see rainbows or screendoors with the bulb, so I guess Im just not susceptible to that, so again, no strikes against the bulb.

that leads to which will have the blackest blacks, the whitest whites, and the most contrast in between and max color accuracy?
post #6981 of 14458
Don't stand so close to me!
I'm a complete newby here, about to buy this TV, but from what I read, and that's a bunch, if you're closer than 2x the screen size (about 8 ft), you're bound to see problems, which is my experience in stores. I've also seen 2x vertical screen size (about 4 ft) somewhere, but can't recall where, and I personally see flaws (or things that may be working as designed but irritate me) in ALL technologies at this distance.
I like to sit close too b/c I don't like wearing my glasses; lame, I know! But if I can read banner scores and news at 8-10 feet I'll be a happy guy!
ADS
Quote:
Originally Posted by balaw View Post

I have an HLT5089 that appears to have most of the problems that have
been discussed on this thread; geometry, green-push, prism-halo. There
are a couple of other things that bug me that are difficult to describe. There
is a "hotspot" (for lack of a better word) where ambient light collects in the
center of the screen even when off. This shows up in some dark scenes
when the room lights are on. There is a vertical "stripe" that shows up rarely
for certain viewing angles, it goes from the top of the screen to the bottom
and is perfectly rectangular, looks like the screen is just made that way.
When standing relatively close to the TV (say 5 feet) there is a V of white
light that can be seen coming up from the center of the lower quarter of the
screen.

I see that the green-push may be fixable by firmware upgrade. As for the
rest...I have looked at a bunch of Samsung TVs. The V shows up on every
set I looked at. The 'hotspot' shows up on every LED set. I haven't had a
chance to look for halo problems on a lot of sets, but it's clear from this
thread that it is very common.

There are a ton of posts on these topics in this thread but I don't see a lot
of success stories with people getting them 'fixed'. I don't want to go
through multiple attempts to repair a design flaw that is never going to be
overcome or run the chance of getting a fix that just makes things worse.

My question for the experts is, are these things that can really be repaired on
this tv or is this just the way the TV is designed?
post #6982 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPG54 View Post

Hi guys, I am new here and am trying to learn from you all. I just hooked up a new HLT6189S a couple of days ago. So far so good, Just trying to learn about calibration right now.
In reference to the firmware....My set was just built on 9-30-2007. Would it have the latest firmware? How do I check which version it has?

Upper right corner: "Search this thread" is your friend.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...n#post11511882
post #6983 of 14458
What is the problem here. First one out of the box had green screen. Second one worked for 28 days, now green screen, signal or not. Appears red led not functioning. No change using tone adjustment. Is there a problem with the new LED system on this TV?
post #6984 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrod View Post

Glad someone besides me is getting use out of the work I put into tweaking the picture settings.

I updated my firmware to 1026 today and at a quick glance in AVIA these settings pretty much hold up except that I bumped brightness down to 45 to get the black level correct on the component input (my current DVD player is component-only). With everything set the same, the newer firmware seems to have brightened up the image just a bit compared to 1012.

Everything else on my set is still the same as quoted above and it looks good. Really good

I didn't mention this before, but I also have HDMI black level set to "low" in the setup menu. To my eye you definitely want this to get rich blacks, but I'd also recommend to put the brightness control back up to 47-50 on HDMI inputs with this setting enabled or you lose a bit of shadow detail.

I put your setting to use, thank you.
post #6985 of 14458
I asked about SD quality and about how to know if the tv is upconverting and nobody responded. Does that mean no one knows the answer??
post #6986 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by hiyman View Post

I have the 6187 and was wondering if SD was supposed to be automatically upconverted by the TV. My SD quality is very poor from what it used to be with a Hitachi 53" RPTV. Are there any settings that make the SD look better? HD looks awesome, but I just don't get enough channels in HD, so I need to make the SD look a little better. I thought this TV upconverted everything, but I didn't read one word about it in the owners manual.

The TV is a 1080P display. It can only display 1080P, so everything that is input to the TV that is NOT 1080P gets converted in the TV to 1080P, there is no other way.

I don't know what your source of TV is, or how you have it connected to the 6187 so I can't help on settings.

Mikr T
post #6987 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by hiyman View Post

Didn't someone on here say that upgrading to a certain firmware got rid of the green push????

I am new to this board and been searching for info on this Green Push. (What is it exactly?)

I purchased a HLT-5087S and there is something weird with the greens on some HD programing. It is almost like a unnatural green like a lime green. Also in Football games the goal posts color look unnatural. (Like a video game yellow)
I have found that it helps to change the color setting to standard but does not fix the problem with the greens that I am noticing. Is this the Green Push I am seeing on here? Or is this something else.

I apoligize in advance for bringing this up as I know its been discussed but this thread is so big I have been reading it for a while and cant find the source of this or if anyone else has noticed the colors sometimes look unnatural. Thanks!
post #6988 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by hiyman View Post

I have the 6187 and was wondering if SD was supposed to be automatically upconverted by the TV. My SD quality is very poor from what it used to be with a Hitachi 53" RPTV. Are there any settings that make the SD look better? HD looks awesome, but I just don't get enough channels in HD, so I need to make the SD look a little better. I thought this TV upconverted everything, but I didn't read one word about it in the owners manual.

My suggestions for improving SD quality are, in the order specified:

1) Check all your internal home connections. Check that screw type are tight, but don't use tool to tighten. Try swapping cables to see if there is an improvement. If you have a splitter, try bypassing it and replace if necessary. Try making your signal path as short as possible by removing video recorder or AV receiver from source signal path. Consider Stabilant 22 for non-optical connections www.stabilant.com/appnt45h.htm.

2) If you use an outdoor antenna, check to see if it is old and needs to be replace. Consider replacing cable too.

If your source is cable, then have your cable company check your outside connections. Two weeks ago I lost 6 digital TV channels. A cable tv service tech came to check it out. He replaced the four cable connectors and splitter where the signals (2 tv and 1 internet) enter my home. He then replaced the connector for my cable service in the pod in the front yard. He did not do anything else and nothing was changed inside my home.

Checking the old connectors showed that moisture had created a patina on the copper conductors that he removed. The new connectors have two rubber seals that keep moisture out of the connection.

Have all channels now and a better internet connection. Applied Stabilant 22 on my outside connections (except in pod) after tech left.

3) Consider buying a Video Processor. Google search for HDTV video processor or the AVSForum's Video Processor forum are starting places http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...aysprune=&f=37.

My previous posts in this thread about my VP:

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWalker View Post

When I first got my 5689 I was impressed by the HD picture that it produced from my SA8300HD cable box. But I was very disappointed with SD pictures. After a week of research I bought a Calibre Vantage-HD video processor. It makes SD almost HD and HD noticeably better.

My wife thought that I was crazy to spend so much on an accessory. When I hooked it up I asked her how she would rate the picture 1 to 10. She said 15. After turning off all 5689 video processing and tweaking the Vantage-HD she said "now it's a 20."

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWalker View Post

Yes, my 5689 only sees a 1080p @ 60 HDMI input. It does not have to de-interlace 1080i. When de-interlacing 1080i, built-in VPs throw away some HD information, to be able to process the video stream in real time. The Calibre Vantage-HD has a 1 trillion operations per second processor that can process all the HD information in the video stream.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWalker View Post

The Realta HQV video processor chip in the Vantage HD and new HD2 match the performance of Teranex's $60,000 video processor http://www.hqv.com/technology/index1...TOKEN=65981011. The Realta HQV video processor does 1 trillion floating point operations per second, which was considered in the super computer range not that many years ago. Good discounts are available, so don't pay MSRP. Best I have seen for an HD was about 25% off MSRP, but haven't searched lately.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWalker View Post

Your last question first. With your setup, the best way to pass surround sound to your audio receiver is via the TV's Optical Digital Audio Output. Unfortunately, Samsung has blocked this signal when a TV source from HDMI is selected. Please read http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post11409693 for explaination and what you can do to help fix this problem.

If you run the audio from the Sat box to the JVC receiver there will be lip sync errors because the processing time the TV requires to de-interlace the signal. This error is compensated for in the TV's analog output and the optical digital output (if the latter were available from HDMI sources). http://www.hqv.com/technology/index1...TOKEN=65981011 has an excellent video on 1080i de-interlacing and http://www.hqv.com/technology.cfm?CF...OKEN=65981011d is an index to related topics.

At this time your choices for audio with HDMI cable are:

1) Use the TV's speakers without real surround sound.

2) Use the TV's 2 channel analog output to your receiver. Again, no surround sound.

3) Use the Sat box's optical digital audio output to the receiver. There will be lip sync errors and TV source switching complexity.

4) Buy a Video Processor. I own a Calibre Vantage HD and love it. http://www.calibreuk.com/home_theater.php describes the Vantage HD and you can download an interactive manual from http://www.calibreuk.com/Vantage_manual.htm. The Video Processor forum http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forum...aysprune=&f=37 offers information about VPs in general and other brands.

I find the advantages of my Vantage HD are: 1) Surpurb picture quality on SD and HD because of Silicon Optix HQV processing http://www.hqv.com/technology/index1...TOKEN=65981011. SD becomes almost HD and a photograph of the TV screen can not show the improvement seen in an HD picture with moving objects. Like when watching tennis and the camera pans the court, the thin white lines are displayed as thin white lines and there are no blurs to moving objects. Your eye is not pulled to the top of the net by processing artifacts. The TV always sees a 1080p signal so you turn off all the TV's video processing and display the picture as received from the VP. 2) Digital Audio Output (optical and coax) is available from all HDMI sources. Lip sync error is automatically corrected and manual tweaking is available if the source is out of sync. 3) Source switching could not be easier. One remote control button is assigned to each configurable video/audio source combination.

The only downside is $$$$. But consider this, all high end computer motherboards come with an onboard video processor and VGA output. Yet, many people buy a graphics card or cards that cost more than, in some cases several times the cost of, the motherboard. Why? Because the video improvements they see are worth the price.

From Vantage HD website:

"So many home theater viewers find that their new projector, plasma or LCD doesn't provide the expected increase in image quality and may even appear more noisy or less clear than their old SD system or CRT set.

Few people realize when they purchase their first hi-definition TV set that the majority of TV programming is still delivered as standard definition. Even true HDTV transmissions, Blu-Ray and HD-DVD sources are often still interlaced or have significant noise, or may contain artifacts due to the original recording medium.

To make matters worse, in order to fill a high resolution HDTV screen, the SD image has to be enlarged but then all the flaws in the original image are enlarged too.

The video processing built into most home theater displays and progressive-scan DVD players has limited processing ability and runs basic algorithms." . . . www.calibreuk.com/home_theater.php and www.calibreuk.com/downloads/vantage-hd.pdf
post #6989 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by hawk203 View Post

... Green Push ...

Here's the posted report of someone upgrading their firmware on an xx87 and getting rid of Green Push:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...e#post11751075

Avio
post #6990 of 14458
Quote:
Originally Posted by Avio View Post

Here's the posted report of someone upgrading their firmware on an xx87 and getting rid of Green Push:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...e#post11751075

Avio

Thanks but what exactly is the green push problem? I am trying to figure out if this is what I am seeing. To me on my HLT5087 the greens seem unnatural and also the problem seems worse when there is yellow involved. Almost like the yellows are mixing with the greens making them seem more a lime color. I looked at my firmware it says 1012 date 3-13-07
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