2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 286

OK...the link, the examples and explanations are PERFECT!

Thank you again AVS forum for the continuing education!

I've got the same model. The HDMI does not support 5.1 pass-through. Samsung should be able to fix this with a firmware update, but has not done so yet.

I'm curious what benefit you think you would be getting from HDMI 1.3. It really only adds a couple things, neither of which actually benefit the tv. It has the ability to carry TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio bitstreams to a reciever for decoding, and it can support higher bit color formats (30, 36 and 48). I'm pretty sure the two tv's use the same light engine, so i don't see how the added color levels would actually be displayed. It also adds some sort of audio/video sync correction, which would require your tv, reciever, and source to all be 1.3. Personally, I don't find it that hard to tweak the audio sync manually.

would anybody else like to chime in on the answer to these questions? I doubt i am going to replace the screen, just wanna know what the trade offs would be...any info would be greatly appreciated!!

Here's the best advice I can give.


Don't.

Look at some quality speakers.
There's a speaker forum here that can point you in the right direction.

What if I was looking to purchase Samsung's multi format HDDVD/BD player. Would this become an issue? That is some of my concerns after the things that I read that it needs hdmi 1.3.

Spoke to my Samsung Tech today.

He has ordered the part to fix the Blue/Purple Prism HALO effect.

Part # : BP61-01639A
Desc: Optical Modular Bracket

He's coming out on Friday to install. I'll try and post a copy of the Service Order. He said the Service Bulletin just came out, and Samsung is referring to it as the Smudges/Blotches issue.

I'll see if I can get a Service Bulletin # & Description when he arrives on Friday.

I'm pretty sure the player, while it has an HDMI 1.3 output, will still output to a 1.1 tv. It just won't be able to use the 1.3 features unless transmitter and reciever are both 1.3. I'm pretty sure the HDMI spec has this backwards compatability built in.

24 Hz firmware experience (lack of thereof).

Called Sam, asked for later FW for my 5087, citing support for 24Hz as the reason for me wanting to upgrade. Was told, in no uncertain terms: No way ! They do have new FW for this TV, but won't ship it or have technician show up for install, unless I cite a problem that is officially addressed by this FW. And support for 24Hz refresh is not one of this things.

Was also told that even if there is a problem that is addressed by FW, the FW install can kill the TV etc etc etc.

So I dunno what to do. Now sure just how much better 24Hz will look (I have PS3 for BluRay, so I can force it to 24), compared to 60Hz. It is a shame though to have 24Hz capable TV and not able to obtain the FW required to enable it

Where do I go on this TV to set the 1080p/24 or 1080p/60?

It is the source (bluray or HDDVD player, for example) that determines the signal that is fed
to the TV. If the TV supports that particular resolution, it will display it.

24fps is how film-based movies are shut. 60Hz is how most TVs operate. 2 don't match, so some creative math is used to convert 24Hz to 60Hz . Some folx believe that such conversion has detrimental effect on quality of video. So when we found out that our beloved HLTs support 24Hz, it was an extra bonus for an already excellent set.

I would just recomend calling back. I called about getting an updated firmware for my set, and as I was trying to get through explaining why (24Hz) as soon as i mentioned firmware, they perked up, Oh, you need updated firmware, sure.. just a second... verified my email address.. only then to realize that my tv didn't have one available. (I have an 89s, with v1011, which i found out later, already supports 24Hz).

It seems to just depend on who you are dealing with. Some are very by the book, meaning they have to go through a service guy and everything.. others seem happy to just give out a quick fix and get you off the phone.

If you ahve an 87 series, I think there are firmwares somewhere in this thread for it that people ahve posted. Perhaps the OP should edit his original post with some updated info (and copy the firmware links there).

here're the links:

http://remotelypossible.info/images/firmware/1025.zip
http://remotelypossible.info/images/firmware/1026.zip

these links are buried deep inside of this very thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=12138937

At this point, need some courage to flash my set. It was posted
by at least 2 people that they bricked their sets by trying the procedure.

My setup is contained on my mantle, with the sub sitting behind the TV. (The mantle is recessed into the wall) It is a cheap Sanyo home theater in a box, so the sub doesn't exactly rattle the windows, but I was wondering if the vibrations could hurt the TV. Currently have a 37" Emerson LCD, but am more concerned about the Samsung HLT5687SAX that will be in its place Thursday.

For various reasons, this is my third Samsung DLP. My first, HL-R5078 was replaced under warranty (light tunnel issues) with a HL-S5087. Unfortunately, this set was stolen during a burglary in October. I now have a HL-T5089, thanks to my insurance company and the fact that these sets keep coming down in price.

The first two sets were calibrated by Avical and this one will too, probably in February when Dave is through my area. Needless to say I've been happy with the results. In the meantime I've used the starter settings posted elsewhere in this thread.

I am sensitive to RBE's but got used to them on the first two sets so they didn't really bother me. On this set, I still see them, but much less significant. I almost have to "try" to see them. If you see them on other sets, they are virtually gone with this one.

From a lip synch perspective, I had my receiver at 110 ms on the first set, my second at about 60 ms, and this one at 30. You only notice it if you have the set speakers on at the same time as the receiver.

I have no blue halo issue or "green push". No screen scratches, no creaking, no high pitched whine.

My firmware version is 1019.

It seems like this set is much less prone to color banding than my previous sets so that makes me happy. The picture, even without calibration is spectacular. This makes me very happy. My only complaint is a minor one. When viewing a movie being shown in a wide-screen format so that the picture doesn't go all the way to the top and bottom, the top and bottom of the picture are off just a tiny bit from being exactly parallel with the top/bottom of the screen. Perhaps it's something Dave can look at in February.

So, for you guys considering one of these sets I'm sold on the technology, Samsung, and especially these sets. I could have bought any competing set, but I've been happy, and continue to be happy with Samsung DLP's (I hope I haven't jinxed this set now!).

that seems kind of strange, as people here have been getting this replaced for a while, my tech also knew exactly which part to order and said he's done this repair a few times already

OK,

flashed my 5087 (bought late April 07 from Big River) to 1026 (link 3 msgs back). Took about 40 seconds. Have my 24Hz now. After setting PS3 to 24Hz, played most recent Die Hard w/o any issues.

Original FW was @ 1018.

The video input settings were reset after FW flashing, but nothing biggy to redo.

So there you have it. A happy camper.

Originally Posted by hunter99507
I need help with a questions please.

I have the 6187s, an xbox 360 and a reciever for surround sound, and an optical cable.

When i hook the xbox 360 up via componet cable, the sound works fine from my tv to my reciever.( optical cable from my tv to my reciever.) But when i plug my xbox in via hdmi the sound does not go through, via optical cable. It works with my composit audio cables but not my optical.

Any ideas on why this doesnt work? It seems weird that the optical cable works via componet cable, but not hdmi? And my composit audio cables work with both. Do i need to acivate something in the tv, or xbox? Im stumped on this one. Any ideas?

Just curious if you are using your XBOX thru HDMI #3? It will not pass audio. I have mine thru HDMI#2 and the 5.1 passed thru the optical out of the TV to my reciever. I just turn the volume down to 0 on the TV when I want to play games loud(when the wife is not home). My DVD player is thru HDMI#3 and I run my optical straight from DVD to reciever. I hope this helps if you try it. Also I have an SAX model and I do not know if that makes a difference.

The Cinimate speakers are analog audio only No HDMI or digital or fiber optic. I use them on a secondary TV. They sound good and can give a good sound field in small area. You may find them a bit pricey for what you get. Try and buy them used and save some money. Go the the Bose site and down load the manual. That will show you how they are hooked into the audio system.

Got my HL-T5687SAX from Amazon today. Delivery was seamless. It came 2 days before estimated.

The TV does have a quiet buzz, like a guitar amp on low, as well as fan noise, but the noise from both is very tolerable and only noticeable when there is so sound.

There is Rainbow Effect, which I didn't expect because I didnt really notice it on the in-store demo models. It is significantly less noticeable than color wheel DLPs and rarely distracts me.

I have no halo effect to speak of, and the screen geometry seems perfect, though I have yet to use the test grid to establish that. Frankly, I'd rather remain ignorant of it. There is no green cast that I can detect either.

It seems to have trouble with weak signals from my digital cable box. That may just be the crappy service/box TWC provides though. Incidentally, I had to return the first box I had because it didnt work...

Picture quality is spectacular for SD and HD cable, and with my Samsung BD-P1400, DVDs are revived and highly watchable, and Blu-rays are out of this world.

No regrets about the TV.

Don't worry, you may not be missing a thing. I took a chance and flashed firmware 1026 to my 5687S Samsung LED and couldn't tell a damned thing of difference for the better. The set still would not recognize 24hz from my Toshiba HD player, for instance. Apparently it only does that for PS3's.

Hi, im definately kinda confused i was set on purchasing a 5089, but recently started looking at the 5087 and 5087sax. What is the difference between the 5087s and 5087sax? I cannot find anywere stating the true difference between the 2. I know what the diffderences betwen the 5089 and 5087 are, and am ot sure if theres enough to warrant the added cost to me.

Any help would be apprecitaed.

The 5087S and 5087SAX are one in the same. The TV is sold by the 5087S designation but when it ships the last two digits indicate the country of manufacture. I have a 6187S and when I received it the model number on the TV itself says 6187SAX.

I don't think you will see a 5087SAX advertised for sale anyplace but you will see people on the forum talk of 5087SAX because that is what their TV Sticker says the model number is.

Hope this clears it up.

Amazon advertises the sets with the AX, but I didn't see them that way in a B&M

Thanks MarkMSM, that's good information to have. Let us know how it goes. I plan on calling it in after the New Year.

-Redbird

I recall reading the SAX model has different firmware than the S model?

Calling all 50" owners. I ordered my HLT-5087SAX from Amazon on Monday and it "should" be here on my birthday. Yippee. I am now looking at stands. I want something that looks more like furnature and is under $300. My main thinng is getting the right height stand. I know the set is 32" tall and when I sit on the couch my eyes are 40" off the floor. So my math would tell me to have my eyes pretty much center on the screen the stand needs to be around 24 inches tall give or take 3 or so inches. What are the 50" people running for stand heights here for comfortable viewing?

Thanks
Andy

PS, I am really excited about my new set as long as Eagle delivers it on time. We will see.

Blue Halo problem fixed with black gasket!!!!!!!
Helped the repair guy change it out, very easy, could have done it myself.

Also have the high pitched buzzing sound, changed out the LED driver but buzzing is still there. Repair guy is suppose to come back. He had a main power supply but he said he recently changed it out on another LED TV and nothing changed. He didn't have the LED driver power supply but I think he is going to order one.

I purchased the Bush Sonoma series stand with my HLT-5687
I don't have either yet but it is about the same height as the stand from Samsung.

Visit your nearby Ikea - there are plenty of furniture pieces that, while not designed to be TV stands, are really good for it. Cheap too.