2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 291

Originally Posted by Dino520

I got my 5687sax at the big river for $1675 last week. Today I noticed it was offered at $1629..so I called in and got the price adjustment!

Originally Posted by prijo

SAMSUNG CANCELLED MY TICKET!!!!!!


ARRGGHHHH

I sent them an email back with the pictures attached, perhaps they didn't actually "look" at the pictures I wrote about in the few characters they give you to describe the problem.

This is the first bad experience I've had with them, I hope they correct themselves.

Originally Posted by wopino

is this normal???
<<picture of halo>>

Originally Posted by Stormwind

A tech just worked on my HL-T6189S set to fix the blue halo problem, improve focus, and eliminate a loud buzzing sound. The blue halo is now fixed (the black lens ring fix as discussed was installed) and the focus is improved.

He replaced the mainboard to try and eliminate the buzz, but it did not work. The loud buzz sounds like it is coming from the LED light source. Does anyone know the magic words to tell Samsung customer support to get them to fix the buzz in the LED light source (I assume replacing it)?

Something interesting: the new mainboard has a date of 2007-09-21 with a firmware version of 1019 ("MODULE: T-LAU2AUS0-1019, DATE: 2007-09-21, MICOM: T-DLEDAUS5-3029").

Originally Posted by SheepNutz

Help everyone! Is this picture below the infamous "halo" problem? I just noticed this today, I only seem to see it on black pictures. If this is a halo issue, how do I contact Samsung to get it fixed, and how long does it take them to fix the issue? Grr, I just got my TV less than a fortnight ago.

<<picture of halo>>

Originally Posted by wopino

i just noticed the screen pattern a couple of days ago that people have been referring to as )))))((((( its on the lower sides of the set, what is causing this? Are all the screens exhibiting this and we just don't notice it?

Originally Posted by prijo

Nope, call you local service rep and ask them to look up the service bulletin for Halo (I think it is called a diffuser kit) and have them come out and fix it.

Also, for folks with buzzing noise, the tech that came out said it is an easy fix, there are fans mounted on the light engine that need adjusted away from the light tube, they are too close. An easy adjustment fixes the buzzing noise.

Originally Posted by av8orjb

Bought the 5687 about a week ago and so far no major issues. Does have halo and slight bowing but no big deal. It does have that "new electronics smell " to it that gets more pronounced the longer the unit stays on. Anyone else notice this smell. It doesn't quit smell like something is burning up (smoking resistor) but it is rather strong, to the point where i can smell it sitting on the couch 12 feet away. Anyone else notice thier units giving off that "electronics smell"?

Originally Posted by FX35TN

I am jealous of all the people have such great success with this TV. I am having problems after problems and the support has been less than desirable! Has anyone had problems where the remote or TV will not do the following:

1. It will not shut off... have to pull the plug
2. The remote will not work... I have tried doing the reset function. It did work when I first set up the set two days ago but soon after stopped.
3. My pic quality is poor but I am sure the is comcast and not the TV.

Thanks

Originally Posted by wopino

my set does that only with that image, but i dont have the normal halo i used to have even when using the torture test image...do you think it will develop into the regular halo like my previous set had (this was my replacement set manufactured Oct 31) is there any easy way i can check and see if i have the black gasket or not without opening the back of the set?

Originally Posted by ant12179

Yes, Mnilan please let us know which firmware version you get and if it does work.

Originally Posted by JohnAV

1)Call warranty support for the display not turning off. Hitting the front power button should turn the display off immediately.

2)Bad remote, thats not a common failure? Go to a local dealer and have them verify operation of the remote. Perhaps the display not turning off and remote not working are one and same problem. Are the batteries Ok?

3)Try over-the-air broadcast to view local HD broadcasts. Usually standard comcast (480i) channels is lousy compared to HD channels.

Originally Posted by paardengel

I tried searching your posts but haven't found instructions on how to fix the underscan. I have tried the Auto adjust and the image lock. I have everything adjusted correctly on my computer too. It's very odd because when I used my old gaming machine it worked perfectly right off the bat. I used the VGA output instead of the DVI output on my Radeon 9700 that time. I'm wondering if there is something funny going on when it converts the digital DVI signal to the analog vga signal. Today i'm going to pick up a DVI to HDMI cable. I'm hoping this may solve my problem because a lot of people seem to be going this route and managed to get it working. So at least this way I can be trying the same setup as them as opposed to DVI to VGA. I'll let you guys know what happens after i try it out this evening.

Originally Posted by paardengel

So i got an DVI to HDMI converter and this is HIGHLY recommended. I think the conversion from DVI to VGA really causes some screwy things to happen. I was only utilizing like 75% of the screen at 1920x1080 rez. Straight VGA worked well on my old computer as well.

Originally Posted by prijo

This is just my $0.02 based on my experience. If I didn't have the dust collecting on my DLP chip, I wouldn't have called in warranty to fix the Halo. I thought the bright spot on my screen was Halo related and just asked them to fix the halo and maybe it will fix the white spot. When he opened it up and took off the optics, it was immediately clear what was causing my white spot.

He said this is common on all dlp's, everyone on this forum will get it and and should expect it. Luckily, it is easy to fix in about 1 hour, just remove the light engine, remove the shroud, remove the optics (4 screws) and you can reach into the light tube with a qtip and some non streaking cleaning solution.

Depending on your dust situation, you might have to clean this once per year. I've had my tv for 7 months and it needed cleaned, but we have lots of pets, so that doesn't help.

The tech said that if you are smokers and the dust builds up, the smokey dust stains all plastic lenses and stuff, and cleaning makes the non stained areas clean but the stained areas stick out worse than before, so they just don't clean lenses in houses that smoke, those lenses will need to be replaced.

The guy knew what he was doing, he was in and out and got my tv back to original condition. Now I know, twice a year or so, clean the dlp chip.

Originally Posted by paardengel

I tried searching your posts but haven't found instructions on how to fix the underscan. I have tried the Auto adjust and the image lock. I have everything adjusted correctly on my computer too. It's very odd because when I used my old gaming machine it worked perfectly right off the bat. I used the VGA output instead of the DVI output on my Radeon 9700 that time. I'm wondering if there is something funny going on when it converts the digital DVI signal to the analog vga signal. Today i'm going to pick up a DVI to HDMI cable. I'm hoping this may solve my problem because a lot of people seem to be going this route and managed to get it working. So at least this way I can be trying the same setup as them as opposed to DVI to VGA. I'll let you guys know what happens after i try it out this evening.

Originally Posted by Kagaden

PC 0% Overscan Tutorial

Read Me: By default, when you connect your PC input there will be several inches of underscan. Following these simple steps should fill the picture on your HLTxxxx from a PC input with minimal picture loss. This method has only been tested by me with VGA input, feel free to give feedback on how this works with DVI/HDMI input.

Note: This does NOT fix bowing or pincushion only over/underscan of the picture.

Do these steps in order:

1) Go to Menu > Setup > PC.
2) Highlight "Auto Adjustment" and press "Enter". This will scan your signal and set your 'Image Lock': 'Coarse' and 'Fine' adjustments automatically. To put it bluntly, it will make sure that all of your PC image is showing.
3) Press the "P-Size" button on your remote.
4) Increase the size of the image several times, attempting to get the vertical length of the display perfectly set.
5) Move the image around and left align & vertically center it.
6) Repeat 4 and 5 until you have the vertical width (top to bottom) of the screen near perfect, and the left side aligned perfectly with the chassis.
7) Go to Menu > Setup > PC again.
8) Go to Image Lock > Coarse. The Coarse setting widens the right side of the picture by 1 pixel increments. This will allow you to adjust only the horizontal length of the screen so that it's perfectly set with the chassis. Adjust the "Coarse" setting until it is satisfactory and you should be done.

Feedback, comments, and questions welcome. I did this about a month ago and I'm explaining it from memory so I hope I didn't skip anything.

Originally Posted by CraziFuzzy

It's not so much the 'conversion' of DVI to VGA, it's just that the VGA signal is analog, and is much more restricted by timings. A newer video card should be able to get the porper timings from the TV via the EDID information, and use that, but a lot of video cards (laptop's especially) don't like working at anything but 'standard' computer resolutions. This is where programs like PowerStrip come in, as they can force these stubborn cards to use the 'custom' resolutions. (most older cards consider 1920x1080 a custom resolution).

Just FYI, there is no real 'conversion' going on in those DVI to VGA adapters for the back of the video cards. The DVI-I connector actually has a normal VGA signal in it, the adapter you have is simply connecting the DB15 plug to those analog pins of the DVI-I.

Originally Posted by SheepNutz

Well, a service tech just came out and fixed my halo issue, and it didn't take long either. What's weird though, is that for some reason, the picture (especially SD content) looks like it has a slight grain to it, especially when there's motion. I don't know if it's just me, or is there something that he could have done that would cause that to happen?

Originally Posted by wopino

does everyone get the red line angleing up from the lower center to the upper corner when using the image that has the white circle in the corner where the rest of the image is black? Just wanna know if that is normal or not...because mine does it too, my set does not exhibit the halo however...

Originally Posted by cannarella

OK so I just got my HLT508SAX and all is working well. Doesn't seem to be any halo but how can I tell if there is any bowing? Where do I get that grid to see if there is any bowing? Now I just have to get the HD installed, that's Monday when Dish Network comes out.

Originally Posted by MLXXXp

Today the tech guy finally fixed my blue halo problem. With the new black lens retainer, the halos have completely disappeared

I still have the "red line" problem that I first reported about, so it seems to be caused by something other than the lens retainer. Wopino, you're the only other person that has mentioned seeing this, so far, in this thread.

As I said before, the "red line" problem is so subtle that I doubt it will have enough effect on normal viewing to be a problem. I don't think I'm going to worry about it for now.

My tech also tried to fix the buzzing problem by replacing the sub (LED) power supply. I told him before he even changed it that it wouldn't (and didn't) fix the problem because it's the LED driver board that's buzzing so this issue is still ongoing.

Originally Posted by mnilan

Well, I still haven't gotten anything from Samsung customer service - they said they were going to send me the firmware for my new Samsung BD-P1400 Blue-Ray player and for my HLT 6187s. They said it would take three days to a week...

I went to the Samsung customer service website and found the page for my DVD player and downloaded the v1.2 firmware myself, unzipped it and burned an ISO image onto a CD-R. I installed it with no problems. (NOTE: this procedure takes quite a long time).

With help and encouragement from "rashid11," I copied the file that "markm75" posted (post #5727 on THIS thread) for FW update version 1026 for the HLT xx87s displays, unzipped it and installed it in my HLT 6187s according to the instructions in the manual.

Now with the BD-P1400 set to 24 fps, I get a crystal clear picture on the HLT 6187s and the info button reveals that the image is 1920 X 1080p @ 24 fps.

So, even though downloading and installing firmware is AT YOUR OWN RISK, it worked for me. I am very pleased with the results even though Samsung customer service was only a waste of my time and a source of frustration... YMMV Good luck!