2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 292

Here is an interesting product that I came across today. Octava 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with Optical Toslink Routing -V1.3 Full 1080P with Deep Color Support http://octavainc.com/HDMI%20switch%204port_toslink.htm. I have added this option to my "Surround sound 5.1 from an HDMI source" post at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=6801. Note that this solution is easily combined with an lip-sync error correction product, if your receiver doesn't provide lip-sync correction.

Ah thank you very much for your input. I wasn't sure what the problem was. I appreciate the information you provided

Thank you very much for digging that up. and for your help =)

Yeah, my guy did the same thing putting the lens on the carpet. I figured out why my picture didn't look right. He went into the service menu, which reset my picture settings, so I just had to change those back to where I had them before. All fixed.

I keep flip flopping between this set and Sony A3000.Do the new sets out have the lens (halo)problem fixed from the factory? Talk me into this over the Sony so I dont have to worry about bulb issues.

^
It appears so, from reports here. But, even if you get it, further reports say that it's a 10 min fix with a service visit.

DON'T let the halo deter you from this TV. It is amazing!

Just wanted to post some info on my set after reading more of the posts in this massive thread:

I bought my HLT5687S in early November 2007 from Amazon for $1674.99. The model code for my set is HLT5687SX/XAA and the sticker on the back says it was manufactured in Mexico in September 2007.

My TV does have the halo effect, but I am not sure if it bothers me enough to go through the effort of having it fixed. I guess I about a year to decide before it costs $$$. The halo shows up slightly below center on the screen. I'm scared if I get this fixed, the tech is going to mess up something else on the set.

I have used Avical's starter settings and these are much easier on the eyes.

I have noticed that if I move my eyes around while watching the TV, I will notice green and red flashes of light as my eyes move. However, they are just that - flashes. I notice this especially when I am using outputting my laptop to the TV via the VGA input. Is this normal?

Also, sometimes when I am watching the TV, the TV will physically make a noise, like a crackling noise. I notice this happens when the color changes suddenly on the screen. Do any of you hear this? It's almost like the plastic casing is expanding or contracting or something.

After almost a month of owning this TV, I still can't get enough of it!

I said I would update any interested parties on the bowing on my 5687 after the tech came out. I`m not sure if this really clarifies anything but here goes. The bowing was relatively slight and more accentuated at the top of the screen towards the center. He said he would "try" to correct it but wasn`t sure he could. He removed the back after setting a horizontal line pattern on the screen..and proceeded to adjust something with a screwdriver as I sat in front viewing the result. After a good 45 minutes and many adjustments with said screwdriver...and many trips from behind the set back to the front to assess his progress..nothing much changed! I could see the lines moving up and down the screen and very little effect on the bowing..but I thought I`d let him do his thing...Finally I offered an opinion. To wit ..that it must have something to do with the geometry of the frame and the body (rear) of the set. Why? Because the only thing that would correct the bowing was literally pulling the set from behind on the upper part of the frame/bezel...to the point of lifting the front of the set off the table. That worked (no screwdriver required)! I suggested a work around involving a cable and pulley system affixed to the top of the bezel and the wall behind the set to create some torque and leverage..but it may void the warranty...

But seriously folks..it seems his adjustments involved loosening the screws on the dmd board and trying to adjust its` seat/alignment relative to the case. It was having an effect..but it needed some kind of twist or torque adjustment he was unable to do. One assumes that this bowing/geometry thing would be checked at the factory before it`s sent to the warehouse..His opinion (in a heavily accented Romanian English) was that the dmd board has to be aligned properly to the case to avoid the bowing issue. If it`s not..the only alternative is to replace the set. Because if one were to only replace the case, you would surely have the same issue appearing all over again.

To summarize..it seems that the alignment of the dmd board relative to the case has to be perfect when it leaves the factory. Replacing the whole set is the only alternatve..and that seems like overkill as the bowing effect really isn`t noticeable while viewing normal programming content.

I also recently saw what I believe to be "judder" on this set. I played a portion of the movie Primeval for him..and he thought it was the Comcast signal. I am skeptical about that opinion. However I`ll expound more on that (uh oh) in a later post.

I just tried the discrete code for the HDMI 3 input from the link above. Unfortunately, it didn't work. If anyone ever finds one that does work, please let me know. Thanks for trying to help Avio.

Does anyone know where we can buy/download a Samsung HLTxx87 service manual?

Thanks

Bob

On bowing issue - methinks it is related to the simple fact of the giant mirror that is attached to the inside of the back of the set, not being a perfectly straight surface.

As any thin glass plate would, it has some flex to it and thus, by pushing/lifting/tilting assorted areas of the TV enclosure we can see that a fix is possible, but it is tough
to come up with an elegant, non-warranty-voiding way of doing it.

One of my friends followed advice posted here a while back: remove all the screws along top line of the screen and 2 upper ones on ea side. Using a thin instrument (he had one of those rounded and pretty dull kitchen knifes) gentry pry the front and back of the TV apart, going at it at the middle, top point, till you get a small gap to show (2mm or so).

Now, he used some black electrical tape, folded into 3 layers and stuck it into the gap. The goal is to provide a way for larger separation between the screen and back of the set in THE MIDDLE - that's where it bows the most. Samsung was partly right, advising to play with the screws to fix the bowing problem. The reason it never works, is that nothing compels the front (the screen) and the back to part and stay parted, when screws are adjusted for some slack.

With a piece of that tape stuck in the gap, it _will_ provide that separating force. Now put the screws back. In my friends case, all but the 2 screws atop, in the middle, were screwed in tight, the 2 atop were left with some slack. The bowing was gone.

No damage of any sort is done to the TV. No pressure of any sort is ever applied to the mirror. The piece of tape can be removed in seconds, should there be a need for a service visit, so that the whole voiding-of-wty issue is avoided. The whole procedure should take 5 mins. Of course, one needs to display some lines along the top portion of the screen during the procedure, for visual feedback.

Hey guys, I recorded the HDNet test patterns this morning, and on the one where you can check overscan (Sample Here) I could see the 4 on the left, but only the 6 on the right, also I could 2 on the top, but only 4 on the bottom. Is there any way to move the screen position so that I get it right in the middle? On shows, I don't notice as bad on the vertical, but you can tell the horizontal is off.

Why buy?

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/do...Type=D&vType=R

Very nice! But a little steep at $275 (US).

I have been lurking for a while now, but thanks to everyone for all of the information. I picked up my second 6187 last night. The first had small halo, a bit of the green push, (((()))), and extremely minor geometry problem. Would have kept it but I got a great deal on the second (Fry's price match at Se@rs plus 10% rebate = $1479 - I got the first at Se@rs for $1740 ). Anyway, I was looking for a 6187 SAX but they were not in stock. I got a 6187SX/XAA that was made in Mexico in October 2007 and it is perfect! None of the problems noted in this thread. Looks like I have a winner.

Oh, to the other lurkers thinking about buying this set. All of the problems that I noted above (except for the green push), I would not have noticed during normal viewing. I was able to get rid of the green push through adjustments. My friends were blown away by the TV. However, I am admittedly a perfectionist. I found most of the problems only because I was looking for them. Overall, this is a great set.

room112: Your link seems to lead to the "Users Manual" not the "Service Manual."

PerfnRestore: The Service Manual seems to available from SamsungParts.com for $28.

http://www.samsungparts.com/part_det...model=HLT5687S

Avio

I would not try to mount these sets. The cases do not appear to be designed for that (flimsy enclousure and air vents in the back) Even if you did mount it, the 6187 would be 15'' off the wall. You might want to look at plasma or LCD units.

Samsung rated #3 in Rear-Projection reliability by Consumer Reports December 2007.

 

December, 2007.pdf 152.4833984375k . file

I seemed to have fixed my own issue here. I downgraded my firmware from 1026 to 1025. The red issue persisted. I then upgraded from 1025 to 1026 and the problem is fixed. I just hope it stays fixed!!

Hey Kagaden, thanks for the tutorial , it helped me some but I have a question for you. I am hooked up via vga and the res is 1920x1080P. When I follow your instructions for eliminating overscan I can get the horizontal pretty much perfect however I still have a good bit (3/4 inch) of overscan in the vertical that I can't get rid of. The psize settings I have available are widepc, widetv, and 4/3. Widepc makes the screen uderscan(ie- the computer screen ends about a half inch short of the ends of the actual screen horizontaly) while widepc ends up with vertical overscan that I can't seem to get rid of. Do you know a way to fix this?

Thanks.

manualuniverse.com for $17.99.

Bob

just got the tv, I'm watching pirates on blu ray on my ps3 over component. My HDMI doesn't seem to work, but there are black lines on top and bottom of the screen. It really pisses me off, I went through pretty much all of the available settings. Hell, it even has full screen during the previews! If anyone knows how to fix, that would be awesome.

Maybe this thread will help in explaining different aspect ratios that you might run across, if that's your issue:

Where Did Those "Black Bars" Come From?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...hreadid=328207

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but wasn't Sony and Panasonic, the number one and two in the CR Report, sued due to service issues with their RP tvs?

[quote=blazeblaze;12436350]Maybe this thread will help in explaining different aspect ratios that you might run across, if that's your issue:




thanks, but I was only able to make the lines half as small...

I also was trying to decide between the Sony A3000 and the 6187. I decided to go with the 6187 and have been extremely pleased with my decision. I bought my set in November and it had an October manufacture date. I have none of the issues described in the forum... no halo, near perfect geometry, and awesome pq (after changing the factory settings to those suggested in this forum).

I'm assuming that my TV already has the black ring installed from the factory but I haven't opened it up to find out.

Ok, I just reviewed the Dec. 2007 CR article on page 25 on TV Reliability and Brand Repair History.

The RPTV graph is based on 2004 to 2007 owner reports of repairs or serious problems in the 2007 CR annual survey. Here's what it shows:

DLP RPTV's
Samsung 19%
Mitsubishi 21%
Toshiba 30%
RCA 34%

LCD RPTV's
Sony 12%
Panasonic 16%
Hitachi 24%

The article points out that about 25% of repairs involved replacing the bulb.

The article has a separate graph for flat-panel LCD and Plasma TV's. The repair rate for LCD FP in this graph was, Panasonic 2%, Sony, Sharp and Samsung 3%. Plasma was report as Panny 2%, Pioneer 3%, Sammy 5%, Philips 8%.

Samsung rated Number 1 in DLP RPTV Reliability (this includes bulb based Sammys which are the majority).

Avio

I too was deciding between the same sets. I made the same decision with the same results as SlyDoggie. It seems that the new sets have fewer problems. I was looking for an SAX when I got mine but I ended up getting an SX made in October. Great set - no problems. In addition to saving on bulb replacements you also reduce your energy consumption by about 40%. The LED can save you big time in the long run.

If you check the dvd box it should say "2.35:1" on the back somewhere, or imdb.com under "technical specifications" of the film. As long as you don't see black on the sides, you should see black on the top and bottom as the 16:9 sets are 1.78:1. This (2.35:1) is the original aspect ratio of the film (OAR) and is a good thing. Supplemental material and menus may be 16:9 or even 4:3 (1.33:1) depending on how old the dvd is....

Is HDMI 1.3 and Deep Color going to really be noticable?

Oh and something I didn't see in the first post: Does the xx89s support 48-bit deep color with it's HDMI 1.3 or is it a lower bit one?