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2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 295

post #8821 of 14852
I've been watching my new 6187S (manufactured in Nov-1) for couple weeks. I have not notice any major problem except sometime I heard clicking or poping noise as if something is switching on and off. I also notice the sound comimg from the speakers become slightly louder or weaker as well similar change from stereo to mono or vice versa. It seldom happen when watching broadcast channel, but it happens a lot while playing SD DVD. I am wondering any one has similar experience?

Thanks,
Anthony
post #8822 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by kian View Post

Does the shades of gradation have to do with the Deep Color support?

Also, can the xx89S support and display all the colors in 48-bit Deep Color sources(when there are some)? You said LED DLP's have a higher color gamut so I was wondering if it's as high as 48-bit Deep Color.

I also sent you a PM. Thanks John!

I think explaining this as bit depth will help out. There are three primary colors (green, blue, red) when one hears 8 bit processing what we are really discussing is 8 x 3 primary color = 24 bit color depth, and 10 bit processing x 3 primary color = 30 bit color depth. 12 bit processing x 3 primary colors = 36 bit color depth. 16 bit processing x 3 primary colors = 48 bit color depth.

See how this is beginning to relate to HDMI 1.3 spec which supports 30-bit, 36-bit and 48-bit (RGB or YCbCr) color depths, up from the 24-bit depths in previous versions of the HDMI specification.

8 bit processing = 1.67 million colors (256 gradation)
10 bit processing = 1.07 billion colors (1024 gradation)
12 bit processing = 68.7 billion colors (4096 gradation)
16 bit processing = 281.4 trillion colors (65536 gradation)

Now if you were looking at a B&W image that only had 256 shades of grey you wouldn't have a great image (banding) but as you increase the number of gradation to 1024 you achieve much less banding. Now add the primary colors each to this scheme and you end up with 1024 x 1024 x 1024 = 1.07 billion shades of gray.

What consumers need to know is that the standard single DLP processor supports 1024 shades of gradation, and some expensive multi-chip DLP projectors support 4096 shades of gradation.
post #8823 of 14852
Anyone have any experience with the OmniMount CCH1B Center Channel Speaker Shelf and a 5687S? I'd really like to get this, as my center channel is half blocking the remote sensor on the TV.
post #8824 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by SheepNutz View Post

Anyone have any experience with the OmniMount CCH1B Center Channel Speaker Shelf and a 5687S? I'd really like to get this, as my center channel is half blocking the remote sensor on the TV.

I looked into TV shelves for the centre channel speaker but the back of the 5687 is too steep. No one else seems to have gotten any of this type of stand to work. So unless someone chimes in with some direct experience, I suggest you look for another solution.

Personally, I'm going to try putting it on my stand under the TV. It will be a bit lower than I'd like but we'll see.

Bob
post #8825 of 14852
Quote:


BTW, each of the red, green, and blue LEDs uses about 30 Amps of current!

How unbelievable! So each uses 30 amps; that's 90 amps consumed from your 15 amp wall plug circuit. You have defied the laws of physics. Amazing.
post #8826 of 14852
@ what voltage - that is the question

Most likely at ~3V or so (if not 1.5V). So no laws of electricity are compromised here .
post #8827 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlachowin View Post

Just an update on my halo prism issue. Samsung tech was sent out with just the "black ring" - and installed it in about 20 minutes. No more halo!

Glad to hear it. I put in an online ticket to have mine fixed. It has been 6 days and no call from the local tech. I thought it said they are supposed to contact you within a day. Can't wait to get the halo fixed but I guess I'll have to try again after the holidays.

-Redbird
post #8828 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by hiyman View Post

I think someone described in a earlier post how to tilt the picture. I think it was just a screw on the back somewhere that tilted the whole light engine slightly which makes the picture on the screen tilt. I am not positive about that but I am pretty sure.

That would have been my post here.

Note that this technique is only for a very minor tilt. Larger tilts are corrected as described in the service manual; by loosening screws holding the board that contains the DLP chip and physically rotating it.
post #8829 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by rashid11 View Post

@ what voltage - that is the question

Most likely at ~3V or so (if not 1.5V). So no laws of electricity are compromised here .

That sounds about right to me.

Here is another interesting bit of trivia: These LED DLP sets seem to be the only kind that do not require any high voltage DC in order to work. Traditional CRTs obviously need really high voltage, plasma screens need something like 50-100 volts to create the plasma, LCDs need a similar voltage to run the backlight, and color-wheel DLPs need a couple hundred volts for the lamp. So as long as you stay away from the main power supply, you can fiddle with adjustments without worrying about getting electrocuted.

Doug
post #8830 of 14852
Hi guys..

I recently also had my halo issue fixed.. took the technician about 1.5 hours to do the simple swap of the 16Cent part.. but the halo issue is gone..

I just told him to about the issue and that it was called a "diffuser kit" possibly and he knew about the ring replacement..

There were no geometry changes either which was good..

However, Maybe i'm just seeing things .. but i swear the picture is not quite as clear or sharp at times.. almost like you wish you could turn a focus wheel slightly to bring it back.. Though last night i played with settings and set things like contrast and brightness higher and it seems "slightly" better.. it may also be that i had set the gamma in the service menu to a higher value and forgot.. i'm not sure on this one..

I was planning on watching for a few more days, since i really hadnt had time to watch much to confirm this.. (Comcast HD stations)

Did anyone else run into this after a halo fix.. or is it just my eyes fooling me lately

Cheers
post #8831 of 14852
I just recieved my brand new HLT-5687s yesterday from ABT. After an easy set-up I started trying all the bells and whistles it has. It was pretty good for the most part. Im a novice at HDTV, its my first. Well to make my story short, I was watching Superbad in 1080I ( it was great). Suddenly my tv made a loud snap crackle and pop. Then my picture was gone. The sound can still be heard. In short my tv is dead and the smell of burnt electronics still lingers in my living room. Just a note I did use a surge protector and only got to enjoy my tv for less than 4hrs. [color="Red"]Now has anyone experienced this issue with this unit or any othe LED units of samsung?[/COLOR]


I called ABT today and told them what happen. Pretty good customer service.They will replacing my unit and picking up the dead 1 in 2 days.
post #8832 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Hi guys..

I recently also had my halo issue fixed.. took the technician about 1.5 hours to do the simple swap of the 16Cent part.. but the halo issue is gone..

I just told him to about the issue and that it was called a "diffuser kit" possibly and he knew about the ring replacement..

There were no geometry changes either which was good..

However, Maybe i'm just seeing things .. but i swear the picture is not quite as clear or sharp at times.. almost like you wish you could turn a focus wheel slightly to bring it back.. Though last night i played with settings and set things like contrast and brightness higher and it seems "slightly" better.. it may also be that i had set the gamma in the service menu to a higher value and forgot.. i'm not sure on this one..

I was planning on watching for a few more days, since i really hadnt had time to watch much to confirm this.. (Comcast HD stations)

Did anyone else run into this after a halo fix.. or is it just my eyes fooling me lately

Cheers

I think it might be your eyes I was watching a blu-ray (Underworld Evolution) when the tech showed. We powered down the set, and he did the repair, and I continued to watch the movie which looked the same except without the halo. Maybe your display settings were reset when the power was unplugged?
post #8833 of 14852
Didn't you know that these were the disposable models?
Sorry to hear about your experience. I hope the next one is a great one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dell12 View Post

I just recieved my brand new HLT-5687s yesterday from ABT. After an easy set-up I started trying all the bells and whistles it has. It was pretty good for the most part. Im a novice at HDTV, its my first. Well to make my story short, I was watching Superbad in 1080I ( it was great). Suddenly my tv made a loud snap crackle and pop. Then my picture was gone. The sound can still be heard. In short my tv is dead and the smell of burnt electronics still lingers in my living room. Just a note I did use a surge protector and only got to enjoy my tv for less than 4hrs. [color="Red"]Now has anyone experienced this issue with this unit or any othe LED units of samsung?[/COLOR]


I called ABT today and told them what happen. Pretty good customer service.They will replacing my unit and picking up the dead 1 in 2 days.
post #8834 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlachowin View Post

I think it might be your eyes I was watching a blu-ray (Underworld Evolution) when the tech showed. We powered down the set, and he did the repair, and I continued to watch the movie which looked the same except without the halo. Maybe your display settings were reset when the power was unplugged?

The settings were reset (forgot to mention), but i reset them to the values i was using.. though i'm wondering if i had done a gamma setting (higher) in the service menu.. as it does seem like i'm using higher contrast and brightness settings (brightness wise around 65, to be able to see all the folds on dark/black clothing etc) for Cable.
post #8835 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV View Post

I think explaining this as bit depth will help out. There are three primary colors (green, blue, red) when one hears 8 bit processing what we are really discussing is 8 x 3 primary color = 24 bit color depth, and 10 bit processing x 3 primary color = 30 bit color depth. 12 bit processing x 3 primary colors = 36 bit color depth. 16 bit processing x 3 primary colors = 48 bit color depth.

See how this is beginning to relate to HDMI 1.3 spec which supports 30-bit, 36-bit and 48-bit (RGB or YCbCr) color depths, up from the 24-bit depths in previous versions of the HDMI specification.

8 bit processing = 1.67 million colors (256 gradation)
10 bit processing = 1.07 billion colors (1024 gradation)
12 bit processing = 68.7 billion colors (4096 gradation)
16 bit processing = 281.4 trillion colors (65536 gradation)

Now if you were looking at a B&W image that only had 256 shades of grey you wouldn't have a great image (banding) but as you increase the number of gradation to 1024 you achieve much less banding. Now add the primary colors each to this scheme and you end up with 1024 x 1024 x 1024 = 1.07 billion shades of gray.

What consumers need to know is that the standard single DLP processor supports 1024 shades of gradation, and some expensive multi-chip DLP projectors support 4096 shades of gradation.

So from what you said, I'm guessing this xx89S set can only output and process a 30-bit Deep Color source? To process 36-bit Deep Color you would need one of the higher end DLP's with 4096 shades of gradation which this set does not have. And to support and process the full 48-bit Deep Color color spectrum you would need a DLP that has a lot more shades of gradation which there currently are not any of.

Does that all sound right John?

(ps I also sent you a PM again)
post #8836 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbird View Post

Glad to hear it. I put in an online ticket to have mine fixed. It has been 6 days and no call from the local tech. I thought it said they are supposed to contact you within a day. Can't wait to get the halo fixed but I guess I'll have to try again after the holidays.

-Redbird

Redbird,

Call the 800 number that is on your service manual. They will fax your problem sheet to the Local Tech in your area, and provide you with the Tech's name and number so you can call yourself (if they do not call you within a 1/2 hr).

Don't wait, you can have the Halo issued fixed before Christmas!

Matt
post #8837 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Did anyone else run into this after a halo fix.. or is it just my eyes fooling me lately

I don't think it's your eyes at all, it does seem that the focus is quite finicky in terms of having the light engine in at exactly the right spot as it was before: when my tech did the black ring change he was about to close up when I told him to wait so I could check focus and guess what, it was quite a bit out. After some fiddling and pushing I guess he finally put the engine back right where it was as the focus is about 90% of what it was (slightly off at the bottom compared to before), otoh I am likely getting a new light engine so I didn't push to have it perfect.
post #8838 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by kian View Post

So from what you said, I'm guessing this xx89S set can only output and process a 30-bit Deep Color source? To process 36-bit Deep Color you would need one of the higher end DLP's with 4096 shades of gradation which this set does not have. And to support and process the full 48-bit Deep Color color spectrum you would need a DLP that has a lot more shades of gradation which there currently are not any of.

Does that all sound right John?

(ps I also sent you a PM again)

Yes on the xx89S set can only input and process a 30-bit Deep Color source.

45-bit is the norm for DLP based Digital Cinema projectors.
post #8839 of 14852
Good day folks. I have a 6187S ,sound system Onkyo 7.1 HTIB . First off I'd like to thank everyone for all the info I've gleaned from this most informative site. My problem is while running audio thru the Onkyo ,sometimes the sound skips almost like it is cycling there seems to be a even amout of time between sound interuptions . Any ideas ?
post #8840 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV View Post

Yes on the xx89S set can only input and process a 30-bit Deep Color source.

45-bit is the norm for DLP based Digital Cinema projectors.

Thanks so much for the help John. I decided I'm going to keep the 6187s as I was expecting full 48-bit Deep Color if I were to upgrade to HDMI 1.3 with the xx89s. It was my own cluelessness that I expected 48-bit Deep Color but now I've learned that there may not even be any sets with 48-bit color gamut support. Maybe in 5-7 years the prices on 48-bit panels will be just as great as the 6187s
post #8841 of 14852
Dell12
Thanks for the info about ABT. Have you had a good experience with them? I have an install happening Saturdayfor a 6187S. I am hoping not to have the same issue you were unfortunate to have.
Thanks
post #8842 of 14852
You can also register your TV at www.samsung.com/register and make service calls right from the website!
post #8843 of 14852
what is the difference in the s model or sax
post #8844 of 14852
Samsung has some new web pages.

Specific to DLP displays is bigscreens page.

Some useful information on various innovations

Whats interesting is only the $100 difference between the xx87s and xx89s series when looking at 61" size.
post #8845 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by FX35TN View Post

That sounds like a 60hz AC hum. Try this $2 fix. Go buy a adaptor plug at the hardware store which converts 3 prong to 2 prong. That will eliminate the earth ground which can cause a hum. If it work post your results.


Ok, I finally tried the 3 to 2 prong adapter, and I can still here the buzzing sound. Sadly to say I do slightly notice the sound even when the tv is not muted. Probably because I am listening for it.
post #8846 of 14852
i have a quick question, im sure its been brought up already, but why dont they offer an LED 1080p DLP less than 50", my ideal size is 42-46". It kind of annoys me, because i had the 50" 87 but it is getting returned (bad coloring *it was an open box item*) and it hurt my eyes because of the size. I dont want to go LCD becuase of the 1. price 2. Tripple ball effect. This tv wont be used for watching standard tv, only bluray's/dvd's, sports and other high def tv

-J
post #8847 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by romad600 View Post

Ok, I finally tried the 3 to 2 prong adapter, and I can still here the buzzing sound. Sadly to say I do slightly notice the sound even when the tv is not muted. Probably because I am listening for it.

If you do a search on the post for "buzzing", you'll find better results.

I had the same issue. The buzzing sound is louder, when the picture is brighter, correct? One of the LED light drive has a short. The local tech guy replaced the entire LED light drive in my unit and the buzzing went away.

Hope this helps.
post #8848 of 14852
UPDATE:

So Samsung gives me a ring and says that they aren't going to be able to replace the part to fix the blue halo, because that part is on back order. So they say they want to switch the TV out for a newer one, the SAX model.

Well, that's fine and dandy by me. I could care less. But what really stinks is that i bought it through Amazon and bought the 4 year service plan from NEW and I ring them up tonight, and they say that the plan will NOT transfer over to the replacement TV. They said they wouldn't charge me for the replacement plan, and would refund my money.....but now I am left (next week) with a brand new TV and NO replacement plan.

What do you guys suggest? The NEW off amazon was going to cost me only $250 for 4 years.

I called Samsung, and they said to call them back tomorrow morning when they had someone better to advise...

So, the question is, I'm getting a new TV from Samsung, what should I do for an extended warranty? What are my options?

Thanks a ton....
post #8849 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by kian View Post

Thanks so much for the help John. I decided I'm going to keep the 6187s as I was expecting full 48-bit Deep Color if I were to upgrade to HDMI 1.3 with the xx89s. It was my own cluelessness that I expected 48-bit Deep Color but now I've learned that there may not even be any sets with 48-bit color gamut support. Maybe in 5-7 years the prices on 48-bit panels will be just as great as the 6187s

Wow Kian thanks for asking the question because I too was wondering if it would be worth it pay the extra cash for the 89's but seems to me like there is no reason to... and thanks John for answering the questions
post #8850 of 14852
Quote:
Originally Posted by J.L. Jameson View Post

UPDATE:

So Samsung gives me a ring and says that they aren't going to be able to replace the part to fix the blue halo, because that part is on back order. So they say they want to switch the TV out for a newer one, the SAX model.

Well, that's fine and dandy by me. I could care less. But what really stinks is that i bought it through Amazon and bought the 4 year service plan from NEW and I ring them up tonight, and they say that the plan will NOT transfer over to the replacement TV. They said they wouldn't charge me for the replacement plan, and would refund my money.....but now I am left (next week) with a brand new TV and NO replacement plan.

What do you guys suggest? The NEW off amazon was going to cost me only $250 for 4 years.

I called Samsung, and they said to call them back tomorrow morning when they had someone better to advise...

So, the question is, I'm getting a new TV from Samsung, what should I do for an extended warranty? What are my options?

Thanks a ton....

Frankly I'de pass on that. If the tv makes it through the manufacturers warranty period with no problem then odds are it will make it well past that extended warranty period just fine as well. It has no moving parts to wear out and if there is a defective electrical part it will probably show itself before the manufacturers warranty is out.
If the extended warranty covers damage from power surges and the like and you live in an area where that is a problem then maybe, but otherwise I don't think it's worth it.
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