2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 296

Thanks for the input.....anyone else? What do you guys think about service/protection plans? Waste of money?

I tried adjusting the brightness, contrast, and other things, and it made no change to the buzzing sound.

I think it is a waste of money. The retailer is betting that nothing will go wrong, thus you give them free money, while you are betting something will go wrong. You are just buying a piece of mind. I personally never get them. Even on my vehicles. The times that I did buy them for things, I never used them, so over time I deemed it not necessary to purchase. Plus if you buy it on certain credit cards, the credit card typically extends the warranty an additional year and is warranted thru the credit card.

Personally, I think about 8-10% spend on 5yrs warranty is money well spend. Check this thread out
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=826857

It lists some good options

OK so I have found out that I have the halo and need to place a service call. Will do tomorrow. Also something else I noticed. I was sitting directly in font of the set adjusting some components below and about 5 inches up from the bottom of the display is this )))))))))(((((((((( going all the way across the screen. Where it transitions between ) and ( is in the middle of the screen. Any ideas? It is about 1.5" tall.

Your most welcome!

Just a FYI but if the price is close then the xx89s is a better deal. List online at Samsung shows $100 difference in MSRP between models. Problem is that most B&M stores carry the xx87s series rather then xx89s series. Most noticable feature in xx89s is xxYcc option, enabling it you notice immediate increase in color depth even with upconverting DVD player.

"So what stands the 89 Series apart? Bluetooth® capability for wireless headphones, for starters. then there's the one-tuner picture-in-picture feature that lets you simultaneously view two shows at once. Three HDMI inputs (version 1.3) help add greater color depth to your digital movies and pictures. Samsung's most advanced DLP® HDTV, it even comes prepared for the 3D future with 120Hz switching."

What ever model you get, enjoy!

The )))))((((( is common to many of these sets - probably around 70% of them. Mine has it and I can't see it if I am more than 3 or 4 feet away from the screen. The consensus seems to be (and I agree) that this is not a defect since it has no adverse effect on the PQ when viewed at normal distances.

I've had my 5689 for about 6 months now and after calibration, I am very happy with the picture quality. I run Comcast HD, an Oppo 981, Samsung Blu-ray and Xbox360 w/ HD DVD and all sources look great. But I've had two issues: One is a very slight "bow" downward in the middle center of the image in 2.3x:1 ratio presentations. Has anyone experienced this, or do they know the potential fix. Second, since I got the TV, the power button on the front has been very tempermental, most of the time not working at all (although the remote will always switch the TV on and off). In addition, the little blue light under the power button has never worked, despite switching it on and off in the options. Has anyone else experienced this? Thanks!

If you are wondering about power consumption, this reply should answer some of your questions.

I have the same issue and I too am looking for a solution.

No, nothing you can do (even in the service menu) can fix the buzzing. There is (probably) an actual *short* in one of the LED light drives.

A tech must come to your home and replace the entire LED light engine. The tech showed me the old drive and there was a huge brown scorch mark on the middle LED cover.

If you are within your first year of purchase (has the TV even be out more than 1 year?), call Samsung and arrange a tech call through a local service.

For the most part, I agree. However, on certain "big ticket" items, I will purchase the EW. The local big electronic store here offers EW at resonable prices. I didn't buy the EW for my Xbox 360, but for a $2400 HDTV, you bet your ars, I'm buying the EW.

Yea ,I was wondering if this SAX is a newer "fixed" model or is it the same?

J.L. Jameson:
My four-year-old Samsung HLM 507W DLP set still works great. I had no extended warranty on it. I now have an HLT 6187S (bought in August) that has no extended warranty and I'm not worried.

In essence, the extended warranty is you betting that the TV will break within the time-frame and the seller of the extended warranty betting it won't. It's a gamble but I agree with "candy76man" on this issue. Good luck.

The '89 WILL pass stereo but NOT Dolby. (pg39 of the manual)
the 87 doesn't pass audio at all from HDMI source

Thanks SnakeDoctor. I can only see it when up close. Just wanted to know if it was a problem or not. It looks like spinning tool marks in the actual screen. I can't see it from normal viewing distance also so I won't worry about it. I just need to call them about the halo.

Looks like the MSRP was a mistake, I don't see it listed anymore?

Does anybody have some data on how many of the HL-T's have been sold? It would help put into context the frequency of problems reported here. I've had an HL-T5687 since April and it has none of the problems discussed herein. I'll still keep my fingers cross.

Does anybody now what is the best test pattern or image to determine if I have the halo problem? I can't tell if i do or not.

OK, I have read through a great number of these posts on the HLTXX87/89 and I have seen some issues, but did not see the issues I am having and wanted to see if any one else has had this....

I ordered this TV about a month and a half ago and got it a week ago due to back order. I plugged it in after allowing it 5 hours to come to room temp and hooked it up.

I ran the digital cable into the coax input and watched a little TV. The next day I removed that and put my digital cable box in place, hooked up the DVD player, etc.

Well the cable "source" is still shown as an option, and cannot be romoved.

And, about the second day, the TV started turning itself on and switching from AV1 to th coax input, and then start changeing channels. The remote will not control it after that. I have to push the power off on the front of the unit, and then back on. If I hold the power button on the remote for like 5 seconds it will turn it off (or on), but that is all. no other functions on the remote work, nor do the buttons on the side of the TV.

After resetting via the power button on the front, it seems to work ok.

Until today. Now it is locked on cable input and nothing will fix it. I have unplugged it for 30 seconds, I have reset the remote. I have turned it off and on, and nothing. (and have to hold the power button for several seconds to get it to respond)

I have only had it a week.

I called Samsung and they were going to send a tech out, but then suggested getting a replacement unit from the retailer I bought it (B and H photo)

B and H wants to pick this one up, get it returned to them and THEN ship me a new one. So about 2 weeks turn around.

I am tempted to just return it completely and go get something locally. A local retailer really likes Mitsu and is pushing me on those. (a 57" 57833 or a 65" 65733)

I got this TV due to good things I had heard about it and the LED technology. But I am starting to get concerned.

The box it came in had one end slightly damaged, but the TV and inner packaging was all fine. The box might have been hit or dropped, but the TV looked 100% OK.

I am also at 10,600 ft in elevation, but the LED does not have a high altitude setting. The local retailer thinks that it is an altitude issue, but he has not been very pro Samsung (excpet the Blu-ray player)

Thoughts? Get a replacement? Get a Mitsu?

Hello my first post here, just a quick question does anyone know if I did a SW upgrade on HL-T5087AX will I be able to get 1080p24, right now my SW version is 1009.

I wanted to post on how the halo issue was resolved for me.

My 6187SAX had the halo "blue/purple blob" issue. I setup a repair through Samsung, and earlier this week the repair center (Schneider TV in St. Louis, MO) called to let me know they had received the part and offered to come a day early to do the repair. I took them up on the offer and left work for lunch to meet the repair guy.

He had arrived a few seconds before me and was waiting at my door when I arrived home. He said this was the 2nd time he'd replaced the chrome colored lens cover with a black one and that Samsung had let his repair center know about the issue about a week ago. He finished the repair in about 15 minutes and even took the time to clean my TV's screen (and gave me the rest of the bottle of cleaning solution) and show me the LED's and other internal parts of the TV. He also explained the lifespan of the LED's and showed me that "jiggling" the frame of the TV is a good idea after moving it. He said the internal part of the TV can come out of the "tracks" in the frame when it is moved, since they're so slim; and jiggling the TV sets the TV back in the tracks.

The repair guy was an absolute pleasure to work with, and I could tell he really knew my model of TV inside and out. I no longer have the halo prism issue, and the TV is working great now.

Hello, first post here. Thanks to all for the great info…

OK, like several other posters, I have been following this thread for weeks. I really want to buy the 6187S after comparing it to the Sony 60A3000 and Mits 57734/833. I am convinced it’s the best one for my needs. The only thing I’m struggling with is the geometry and flimsy plastic case issues. So I went to a local CC that had a bunch of RPTVs lined up side by side. I ignored picture quality and focused only on geometry. Walking up and down the row I compared Samsung 5676S, 6176S, 6187S, Mitsubishi WDY657 and WDY577, and a Toshiba 65”. The program was live ESPN with info bars displayed continuously across the bottom so it was easy to see any distortion. Here’s what I saw:

5676S- worst of the bunch with bowing on each end. It was really bad on the right side for some reason, like it was being stretched.

6176S- Interestingly, this larger unit was much better than its little brother with only minor bowing. I would consider this acceptable if it was in my home.

6187S- Better again. Very little bowing. Completely acceptable. I would love to own this unit. BTW, I saw no halo effect either.

WDY657 and 577- Very good. About the same as the 6187S.

Toshiba 65”- Best of the bunch. Horizontal lines were flat and smooth.

As far as the flimsiness of the Samsung case, I put my hands at the top left and right corners and applied twisting pressure to see what would happen. I repeated the twisting with my hands on the bottom corners. It was easy to change the geometry. In fact I could actually make it look pretty good when I pushed or pulled just right. Shims under the base would easily fix any slanting horizontal lines. The Samsungs are indeed flimsy but the Mitsubishi units were almost as bad. The Toshiba was the best in this regard.

I have to believe that the reason why some here have no geometry issues while others do must be related to how these thing are handled during crating, shipping and setup. Another possible source for geometry issues could be poor support from whatever the TV may be sitting on.

What did I get out of this exercise? Well, I was all set to buy online but now I’m thinking that paying a couple hundred extra bucks at a local brick and mortar store will allow me to check the geometry before I accept the unit or even return it if necessary.

Still thinking…

just hooked up my 5687s yesterday and i havent noticed any problems as of yet. i'll keep my fingers crossed.

I don't know. Simply solve your situation by gettng a 42" Panasonic plasma.

Hey everybody. Finally got my halo fixed. The repair guy had the bulletin with him. He said this was his first time servicing any of the hlt xx87/89s. It took him about 45 min. When he was done I loaded up the halo test pic on my 360 and it was gone. I noticed on one of the geometry/overscan grids that it was off a little afterward, but I just about got it back to where it was. Overall very much worth getting it fixed.

Greetings,

I finally got around to trying to fix the "plus green" on my 89 series (too many movie explosions were yellow-green) using DVE. I ended up with tint settings of G30 / R70.
[Color 52, sRGB]

I'm a bit surprised I had to push it that far over -- anyone else seeing that?

Thanks.

alot. it's the #1 selling dlp series on the market by a very wide margin

Anyone buy a Philips 5 yr extended warranty for their set?

Does it cover the LED engine without having to buy bulb warranty?

I'm told Mack does, so would lean that way if Philips requires bulb warranty.

It seems like there are many more reports of problems with the 87 series than with the 89 series...I wonder if thats because more 87s have been sold or is there a quality difference?...I have a 5089 and have no issues at all...luck?