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Cheaper Component to S-Video Converter - Page 21

post #601 of 694
I bought the Atlona new, and read the manual thoroughly. Besides that, I was already familiar with the need to power up with a SD 4x3 image, because of owning an Audio Authority converter. Unfortunately, even though I tried that with both converters, repeatedly, when I first installed them, and they are never turned off, but plugged into a UPS, that doesn't really work. True, both converters will quickly lock on to both WS HD images, and 4x3 SD images, but getting a lock on a 4x3 LB SD image requires a little trick. What I do is start play on a TCM 4x3 SD image, then switch to the DVR recording with the 4x3 LB SD image, and it locks quickly. I don't do a lot of timer recordings, but dub DVR>DVDR instead, so it isn't much of a problem.

That green shift I'm talking about is very slight. Just looking at the converted image, I don't think things look greener. But, using my PIP to make a side-by-side display of the original, and converted signal, and with the screen mostly blue, like a blue sky, or a TCM card, one notices a very subtle green shift. Unless you can compare the images side-by-side, you might not notice it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by greaser View Post

A note in the Atlona AT Comp-500 owners manual:"When input source is not displaying "full screen"(ie;letterbox,pillerbox image)then the output display may come out w/incorrect size or positioning of images.Input source must be set to full screen first before powering on converter".

I guess i didn't see the incorrect positioning you report kjbawk because when i first got my converter i read the "note" and acted accordingly by first inputting a full screen image,and have been doing so ever since(tho' i do know it happens). I use Fox News HD for my reference channel cuz it gives the full screen necessary to fulfill that need.The converter only needs a few seconds to 'lock on' to the image,then when i change channels to TCMHD the aspect ratio(usually 4x3)comes out normally as do other aspect ratios.2:35:1 CAN cause trouble at times,(stretching),it can be cured,but i don't worry about it much cuz i rarely record movies filmed in that AR.In fact,once the unit is fed the "full screen image"just one time at the beginning,i can then record from diff.channels in sequence,each showing a diff.AR and the image will show normally.I commonly do this when i have multiple movies to record from diff.channels,usually unmanned timed recordings while i'm at work.
You can google Atlona AT Comp-500 and it will lead to the Atlona website where you can view a PDF copy of the owners manual and read everything for yourself. This is a good converter that has excellent PQ(far,far superior to the Lenkeng) as long as the source has excellent PQ.I have never seen the green shift you see,my eyes are sensitive to that sort of stuff,and if i saw it i'd have gone thru the roof!!
I have seen it while recording OTA(w/o the converter)on certain "Perry Mason"eps.that i have recorded.I v'e also seen a blue shift,but as i said that was during OTA recordings w/o the converter.
post #602 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bizarro_Stormy View Post

Thanks for all your info and opinion jjeff... it's greatly appreciated.

I think I'll hold off for now... and keep trying to convince DISH NETWORK to find and send me a VIP222 to replace my new VIP222K receiver...

The VIP222 has S-Video output, whereas the VIP222K does not... but, according to them, the VIP222 is not manufactured anymore...

Heck, I'd take a used unit if they could find me one...

Well, these do turn up on EBay once in awhile, much like the sought after 211 which also retains the s-video output and can be modded to record the direct stream. My days of playing with electronics are done though. My eyes won't take it anymore. Getting tired of using magnifying glasses to read labels on ports and such and no more burning myself with soldering irons.
post #603 of 694
Quote:


But, using my PIP to make a side-by-side display of the original, and converted signal

So PIP means picture in picture, what actual device do you use to do this?
post #604 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyclone82 View Post

So PIP means picture in picture, what actual device do you use to do this?

PIP is a function of my Samsung DLP HDTV. For the particular comparison I was doing, one side of the screen shows the HD component output from my cable DVR (via my AVR,) and the other side shows the S-Video output from my DVDR, which is receiving the component output from the DVR via a component>S-Video converter.

I haven't shopped for TVs for a while, so I don't really know, but my sense is that the PIP function is becoming rare. I love being able to do a side-by-side comparison of source and recording. Also, I often do editing on one of my DVDRs, while watching another program on the split screen. I think that cable DVRs with two tuners diminished the popularity of PIPs, because you can switch back and forth between the two tuners, and back up, if you missed some of the main program you were watching.
post #605 of 694
Ok thanks. I know some 'prosumer' type video monitors have PIP function built in such as

http://www.productshop.co.uk/hd.asp?product=lcd215hd which i was considering getting
post #606 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug O View Post

Well, these do turn up on EBay once in awhile...

I got really lucky...

Went through Dish Network technical support, instead of the usual CSA.
She sympathized with our plight, and found us 2 new VIP222's...

Should be here by Wednesday night [WOOT!]...
post #607 of 694
I trust you'll get much better picture quality with a native S-video device My guess is you could spend over $500 and on a external converter and not get better. Of course if your source is CP'd you'd need a filter which would cost in excess of $100 and would degrade the picture quality back to the quality of a $200 component-to-S-video converter, hopefully you won't have to worry about that.
post #608 of 694
The Shinybow unit was mentioned earlier in this thread -- favorably, I think. It was also said to have disappeared off the market. Anyone have more current info on that ?
post #609 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post

I trust you'll get much better picture quality with a native S-video device.

You are correct sir...!

I'm actually amazed at how much sharper the picture is using an S-VIDEO connection compared to a COMPOSITE one...

Also using a COMPONENT video connection straight to my TV...

I'm quite satisfied with my standard def TV's picture quality...
It's 32 inch Toshiba 32a43...

Switching between S-VIDEO and COMPONENT, it's hard to tell the difference picture-wise... though the COMPONENT video's colors are a tad "brighter"...
post #610 of 694
Heres a couple

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...o_S_Video.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ponent_To.html

Cheaper than ebay

regarding Shinybow, Go to their EU site and find the converters part number by input and output types then google the part numbers.
http://www.shinybow.eu/eshop/p-104/k...deo-converter/
http://www.shinybow.eu/eshop/p-103/k...art-converter/

I will try and find some sites selling these later.

I know the one is availble here
https://www.audiovisualdevices.com.a...oductid=SB3681

but to break the audio out of the scart connector you will need a simple $5 adaptor

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Scart-Adapte...312003&sr=1-17
http://www.amazon.co.uk/SCART-Adapte...312003&sr=1-21
http://stores.ebay.com.au/Selby-Acou...1&_from=&_ipg=
You can get some that have no switch too.

There was one i mentioned a few pages back on a US site that has RC audio out rather than having the audio out only in the scart output.
post #611 of 694
[OPINION]

I've been following this discussion for quite some time now and due to circumstances which changed within the past week, I've come to the following conclusion:

IMHO, there are TWO reasons to use a 'XXX-to-YYY' converter. You want to record:

  1. 'Watch-and-Delete' HD 16:9A from your HD STB / PVR onto your SD DVDR.
    .
  2. 'Watch-and-Keep' HD 16:9A from your HD STB / PVR onto your HD PC (ala Hauppauge PVR-1212, for example).

For the sake of this discussion, let's say that

7 days ago, based on the posts in this forum regarding 'Conversion Quality' and 'Analog Sunset', I ordered:
  1. HDMI Splitter Amplifier 1 In to 2 Out Dual Display
  2. HDMI to YPbPr Component Video Converter for HDTV PC PS3 STB, DVD and Projector (Support HDCP 1.2)
  3. HDMI to Composite /S-Video Converter 3RCA CRT TV CVBS
  4. Digital Coax & Optical Toslink to Analog Audio Converter
Then, let's say 6 days ago, Newegg put the Hauppauge PVR-1212 *ON SALE* for ~$155 plus tax ($195 - $15 Promo - $20 Rebate - ~$5 FWCB).
Although I read everything I found about the 1212, I wasn't swayed until the HUGE price drop - AFAIK, the "Best Price EVER" was ~$150. So, on impulse, I bought it. WOW!!!

IME, there's a STEEP Learning Curve for the 1212, with no (that I've yet to find) FAQ or Tutorial. Since I have to return my "FREE-For-One-Year" FiOS Motorola 7232 HD PVR on 05/22/12, I initially jumped in with my 'Best Guesses', while I continued to read everything I could find on the 1212. After a couple of days, 'Experimentation' and 'Reading Posts' CLICKed and I 'Found-My-Way'. I'm currently 'Converting' all of my saved HD videos to the 'MAX Possible' VBR to fit on an AVCHD DVD, using TOSLink to get 5.1 sound (where available). Yeah, some 'Best Guesses' were wrong and I had to RE-CONVERT. But, watching these HD videos on one of my ~$50 Media Streamers is just heaven.

I also added another 40" x 3" x 3/4" strip of plywood to the back of my 'Entertainment Center' so that I could add another row of 3 'Multiple Outlet' (i.e. 6 or 7) strips. The majority of the 'Chinese Device' Walwarts require a 'Readily-Available' horizontal (i.e. prongs go in horizontally) strip, while I've been constantly shopping for the 'Rare' vertical strip, which the majority of my existing walwarts *AND* X-10 modules have required.

Thus, I've been able to test the HDMI-to-S-Video Converter - UGH! The HDMI Splitter works well - I split the output from my FiOS PVR to the TV and to the HDMI-to-S-Video Converter. The TV looks the same. The output from the HDMI-to-S-Video Converter doesn't even belong in the same room with the output from the 1212.

Following the same logic as jjeff, I also bought the HDMI-to-Component Converter for ~$30 just in case the 'Analog Sunset' removes Component Outputs from STBs / PVRs (I haven't tried it yet - no time right now - the 1212 is running almost 24x7).

The Coax / TOSLink-to-Analog Converter unfortunately arrived DOA. Good Coax or TOSLink outputs that feed other devices provide NO OUTPUT from the Converter. I'm glad that I used Amazon as the go-between in case there's a problem getting a replacement *AND* a prepaid mailing label to return the DOA one.

Closing Thoughts:
  • The output from the 1212 is VASTLY superior to the output from the 'Chinese Device'.
    .
  • The output from the 1212 is slightly inferior to the original STB / PVR output, even @ 13.5VBR w/TOSLink.
    .
  • SD output from either the 1212 or the 'Chinese Device' is still 4:3.
    .
  • ~$155 for a 1212, plus ~$50 for a Media Streamer (everyone already has a PC) for a grand total of ~$205 produces some *GREAT* HD videos, which you can also burn to DVDs as AVCHD (haven't had the time to try this yet).
    .
  • As someone who was previously perfectly satisfied watching Analog Cable recorded @ STD / Low on a ReplayTV 5XXX and viewed on a CRT, along with being even more perfectly satisfied watching Digital 'Clear QAM' FiOS recorded @ MED on a ReplayTV 5XXX (fed via S-Video from a Mag DVDR) and viewed on a LCD HDTV, I can honestly say that I'm surprisingly pleased that I can create AVCHDs (aka 'Pseudo Blu-Ray') shows on 4.7GB DVDs *AND* store them on my 'Media Server HDD(s)' where I can then view them via one of my (previously 'under-utilized') Media Streamers.
Anyhow, that's my contribution regarding 'XXX-to-YYY' Converters. Accept / Be-Aware-Of UPFRONT their 'Price vs Capabilities' so that you won't be disappointed after your purchase.

[/OPINION]
post #612 of 694
  1. The FIRST thing that I noticed about these devices is that they have NO FEET! They are all just metal cases.
    Thus, I'm now shopping for (at least) 16 (at least) ¼" rubber feet.
    .
  2. The SECOND thing that I noticed is that the 'HDMI-to-S-Video' Converter runs "Hot-to-the-Touch" (as Wajo previously noted in his FAQ). I taped my ancient RadioShack Indoor/Outdoor Thermometer's Outdoor Probe to the case and after ~1 hour it's reading 103.8°F, which, although feels HOT to the touch, is still lower than the temps my *CRAP* NiMH cells reach when charging.
    .
  3. The THIRD thing that I noticed is that WHATEVER combination of devices and/or cables I try, the 'Coaxial / TOSLink-to-Analog' Converter is DOA.
Since it's now *WAY* past my bedtime, I just started up a CONCURRENT record of "Falling Skies" HD Series 1 (~10 hours) on my PC via the 1212 @ 13.5VBR and on a Mag DVDR, through the 'New' "HDMI-to-S-Video" Converter @ SP. We'll see tomorrow, aka later today, how they compare...
post #613 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClearToLand View Post

Then, let's say 6 days ago, Newegg put the Hauppauge PVR-1212 *ON SALE* for ~$155 plus tax ($195 - $15 Promo - $20 Rebate - ~$5 FWCB).
Although I read everything I found about the 1212, I wasn't swayed until the HUGE price drop - AFAIK, the "Best Price EVER" was ~$150. So, on impulse, I bought it. WOW!!!

IME, there's a STEEP Learning Curve for the 1212, with no (that I've yet to find) FAQ or Tutorial.

Congratulations, you have taken your first steps towards the light. Do a search in the HDTV Recorders forum for threads on the 1212 -- here is one to get you started. You will also find it discussed in the HTPC forum. You can ask for tutorial links and alternative capture software there. You are already familiar with this thread where we have been talking about alternative recording/authoring of HD/5.1. If you are going to continue with the HD PVR 1212 (and it sounds like you will) you absolutely need to make the investment in Video ReDo H.264. There is also discussion of some inexpensive programs to author AVCHD/BDMV disks.

There is a learning curve, but it can be fun because the results are so good compared to what you were doing. A couple quick tips.

Recording bitrate is crucial. The original bitrate of the program doesn't matter because you are converting it to analog, sending it out the component port and re-encoding to H.264 digital -- because of that it will always never look quite as good as the original digital signal. So you are in the analogous situation you have been with a DVD recorder as far as choosing a "recording mode" depending on how much you want to fit on a disk. With a DVDR you could fit 2 hr of quality SD/2.0 on a DVD-R with an MPEG-2 bitrate of ~4.5Mbps. For good quality HD/5.1 it's more like 40 min using MPEG-2. H.264/AVC is a more efficient modern codec but it is not a miracle codec that lets you squash a recording down to put 2-3 hr of HD/5.1 on a DVD-R. Rule of thumb for MPEG-2 --> H.264 is ~70% of original size for equivalent PQ, so you are looking at ~1hr of HD/5.1 on a DVD-R as H.264. I would not go any less than that with the 1212. As always, the quality of your display and your vision will be the ultimate arbiters.

IMHO, burning HD/5.1 to DVD-R is a waste of time. You need a BD player anyway to play an AVCHD disk so just burn it to BD-R to start with and get 5 hr of HD/5.1 on the disk.
post #614 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjbawc View Post

True, both converters will quickly lock on to both WS HD images, and 4x3 SD images, but getting a lock on a 4x3 LB SD image requires a little trick. What I do is start play on a TCM 4x3 SD image, then switch to the DVR recording with the 4x3 LB SD image, and it locks quickly. I don't do a lot of timer recordings, but dub DVR>DVDR instead, so it isn't much of a problem.

I'm watching The Diary Of Anne Frank, 4x3 LB version on TCM HD right now, and the converter has no problem locking onto the LB version so long as i first feed it a WS image from Fox News HD. However,if i feed it the image from TCM-HD first,the pic. shifts around as the converter is trying to'lock on'but can't.If i start with TCM-HD,allow the converter to give the wrong AR,then turn to FN-HD,let the converter 'lock on' to that image,then switch back to TCM-HD it will then show the correct AR.(4X3 LB).I don't mind having to use these little "tricks"at all,if it allows me to get the correct AR,Not being able to get the correct AR is what would piss me off!(Thank God for "little tricks"!!) I do a lot of unmanned timed recordings,so i'm glad there are "little tricks".I never use the TCM-SD feed.

PS:These 'quirks'in the converter that some may look upon as 'flaws',are actually caused by an intentionally"built in feature" that Atlona added for professional techs.who work with large commercial TV/video equipment installs.These converters are made PRIMARILY for commercial use,not for home use,but may be used that way(home use).At least that is the thumbnail sketch given me for their use from an Atlona CSR.
post #615 of 694
Greaser, I'm not sure I understand. You were getting a "4x3 LB version on TCM HD?" Meaning it had black bars on all four sides of the picture, while watching TCMHD from a HD input on your TV? Or, do you mean that your converter was inappropriately causing you to see the WS TCMHD version as a 4x3 on an SD input?

Neither of my high end converters ever has any trouble locking on a signal from a HD channel, even if it doesn't fill the screen. They only have trouble locking on to 4x3 LB images from SD channels. They lock on to full 4x3 images from SD, and HD channels just fine, very quickly.

I record WS films from TCMHD, I record 4x3 films from TCM SD. If you record a 4x3 film from a HD channel, you have to stretch it to get the aspect ratio right. That means that you are wasting pixels to produce black side bars, when recording 4x3 from a HD channel. That reduces the picture resolution.
post #616 of 694
Quote:


Neither of my high end converters


What ones have you got?
post #617 of 694
Audio Authority (no longer made,) and Atlona (pretty much identical.) A week or so back, I list all of my converters, and discuss their performance.
post #618 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjbawc View Post

Greaser, I'm not sure I understand. You were getting a "4x3 LB version on TCM HD?" Meaning it had black bars on all four sides of the picture, while watching TCMHD from a HD input on your TV.

Was watching TCM-HD.Had black bars on top and bottom only,no window boxing.Compared the unconverted Component HD signal on my tv's Component input to the converted signal as seen and shown by my Maggie DVDR.Both pics.showed the identical AR.Today starting at 11:30AM TCM will be showing 4 movies in a row that are listed as being letterboxed,i'll do some comparing between the unconverted Component HD feed,the converted Component feed from TCM-HD again,and compare those images with the images i get from TCM-SD. I haven't done many these comparisons before.I might learn something.
post #619 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClearToLand View Post

Thus, I'm now shopping for (at least) 16 (at least) ¼" rubber feet.

Radio Shack has some.

Large

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2104070

Small.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103342


And Parts Express has them in numerous different sizes.

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards...omo=&srchAttr=
post #620 of 694
Also i saw plenty on ebay too
post #621 of 694
OK kjbawk,this is what i see watching The Seven Year Itch(LB version) on TCM.
TCM-HD shows bars on top/bottom on the unconverted HD feed thru the Component input on my tv w/wide mode(on tv) set on "full".The converted video thru my Maggie, the pic.is the same(bars top/bottom)w/the same "full" setting on my tv.

TCM-SD shows a windowboxed image(bars all around)on the unconverted Component input on my tv w/the wide mode set to "full",and the converted video thru the Mag.shows the same image w/the wide mode set to "full".
Changing the tv's "wide mode" settings to any other setting(normal,zoom,wide zoom) gives bad results(tall skinny,wide fat) thru both the unconverted and converted video streams on both TCM-HD AND SD feeds.

I definitely like the HD feed better.
post #622 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by greaser View Post

OK kjbawk,this is what i see watching The Seven Year Itch on TCM.

According to IMDb The Seven Year Itch is a(cinemascope) 2.55 : 1 film(extremely wide, even wider than the normal 2.35 : 1 widescreen movie) so you'll see rather wide bars on the top and bottom of a normal 1.77 : 1 HDTV. No way around that without cropping or stretching things very tall.
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0048605/
post #623 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post

According to IMDb The Seven Year Itch is a(cinemascope) 2.55 : 1 film(extremely wide, even wider than the normal 2.35 : 1 widescreen movie) so you'll see rather wide bars on the top and bottom of a normal 1.77 : 1 HDTV. No way around that without cropping or stretching.

Yes jjeff,the bars were rather wide on the screen.
Well this might make for an interesting afternoon. The next three movies are also listed as being LB versions.
Bell,Book,and Candle (1.85:1)
The Far Country (1.77:1)
The Spirit Of St.Louis (2.35:1)
I'll have to watch to see the differences.
Gee,i have rarely watched movies quite this closely before just to check out and compare AR's.God forbid i might actually Learn something!!

PS:Bell,Book,and Candle just came on.
TCM-HD shows with very thin black bars (1/4")top/bottom,thru the unconverted Component input on the tv,and with even thinner bars on the converted video thru my Mag.
TCM-SD shows with heavier bars all the way around(window boxed,1-1/8")on both the converted and unconverted video feeds.The pic. seems to be darker in some scenes.

Unfortunately this won't help kjbawk with his question about 4x3 LB movies.I'll have to keep my eyes open for one.When i read TCM's schedule it said "letterboxed", i assumed they would be 4x3 LB. I should have checked IMDb.


kjbawk the next time you see a 4x3 LB movie coming on tv will you kindly PM me beforehand with the station/date/time(especially if it's on TCM) so i can test for myself whether or not these converters have a hard time 'locking on' to this AR??? I can't recall with any certainty recording any 4x3 LB movies.I probably have...just can't remember it.
post #624 of 694
As I said previously our 16:9 TVs are 1.77 : 1 so you should see no bars, 1.85 : 1 seems to be quite common and you'll see just little bars, hardly noticeable if you have overscan. 2:35 : 1 is very common for newer Hollywood movies and the black bars will definitely be noticeable. Anything over 2:35 : 1 is very noticeable and if it's also pillarboxed(such as on TCM SD) it will look downright silly with a postage stamp size image in the middle of your screen. In this case you could zoom the image but of course as you know that drastically reduces the picture quality.
post #625 of 694
^^^You sure know yer stuff jjeff! This afternoon i saw The Spirit Of St.Louis on TCM. Your description of the 2.35:1 AR is spot on.TCM-SD showed the "silly postage stamp" image,whlie TCM-HD showed bars top/bottom,but that was all.

I've seen this before and have always chosen the HD feed cuz "zooming" isn't for me,for the reason you noted.
post #626 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by greaser View Post

OK kjbawk,this is what i see watching The Seven Year Itch(LB version) on TCM.
TCM-HD shows bars on top/bottom on the unconverted HD feed thru the Component input on my tv w/wide mode(on tv) set on "full".The converted video thru my Maggie, the pic.is the same(bars top/bottom)w/the same "full" setting on my tv.

TCM-SD shows a windowboxed image(bars all around)on the unconverted Component input on my tv w/the wide mode set to "full",and the converted video thru the Mag.shows the same image w/the wide mode set to "full".
Changing the tv's "wide mode" settings to any other setting(normal,zoom,wide zoom) gives bad results(tall skinny,wide fat) thru both the unconverted and converted video streams on both TCM-HD AND SD feeds.

I definitely like the HD feed better.

That all sounds normal. I would just point out, again, that if TCM is showing a 4x3 film, you are better off recording it from TCM SD, because it will fill the screen top to bottom, with out zooming. Also, it will be displayed properly with your TV set to '4x3,' instead of "wide mode," so you are using more of the DVD's pixels to capture the image, than if you recorded a 4x3 film from TCMHD.

CLEARTOLAND:
Ace Hardware has a good variety of stick-on rubber feet. I often use them for AV applications. Some you can even stack up, to create more clearance between equipment.
post #627 of 694
Quote:


Audio Authority (no longer made,) and Atlona (pretty much identical.) A week or so back, I list all of my converters, and discuss their performance

Ok i just got the impression you had something even higher than those.
post #628 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by greaser View Post

I'm watching The Diary Of Anne Frank, 4x3 LB version on TCM HD right now, and the converter has no problem locking onto the LB version so long as i first feed it a WS image from Fox News HD.

Until seeing the mention fairly recently in this thread, I did not even realize that there was an HD version of TCM. (One of my few remaining "must have" channels, ever since IFC and Fox Movie Channel went completely to s***, following the terrible example set by AMC a couple years back.). DirecTV seems to only offer TCM in SD. But I'm glad to hear that an HD version does now exist.

Quote:
Originally Posted by greaser View Post

PS:These 'quirks'in the converter that some may look upon as 'flaws',are actually caused by an intentionally"built in feature" that Atlona added for professional techs.who work with large commercial TV/video equipment installs.These converters are made PRIMARILY for commercial use,not for home use,but may be used that way(home use).At least that is the thumbnail sketch given me for their use from an Atlona CSR.

I find this a serious design oversight. How much trouble would it have been for them to include a settable default for that "feature." I mean, even the Sima GO pieces (which weren't much good, in my experience) had some buttons for changing settings. And they were not pro gear, nor were they selling at that price point.
post #629 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeker47 View Post

I find this a serious design oversight. How much trouble would it have been for them to include a settable default for that "feature." I mean, even the Sima GO pieces (which weren't much good, in my experience) had some buttons for changing settings. And they were not pro gear, nor were they selling at that price point.


I don't exactly 'like it',but hey,what am i gonna do,get rid of it???
After looking at who knows how many converters(a lot,that's for sure)i found this one to be the best i could find at an AFFORDABLE price point($212.00 inc.shipping 'new in box').It has very good PQ,and it sure beats the pants off the Lenkeng i used to own.If you can find a better converter at around the same price point,then you should buy it.I know this converters' quirk,have a simple work-around,and i'm satisfied with it.
I don't think there was any "design oversight"per se,you must consider that the converter was designed "primarily'' for commercial use,not home use,though it can be used that way.Since i have never designed nor built a converter it's impossible for me to fathom exactly what was in their minds when they designed and built it.I only have the thumbnail explanation for its use given me by an Atlona CSR.The Simas' you mention(i have one too)which WERE designed for home use i agree, doesn't do its job very well.But the Atlona does do its job well,even with its 'quirk'. I do have a "pet theory"about why this converter was designed the way it was,don't know how much water it holds but,it *could be* that it was designed when 4x3 tv's were still the norm???When 16x9 tv's were still new,or even before 16x9 tv's. That could account for why it stretches images to go full screen,and why the instructions say to first feed it a a full screen image before feeding it any other AR.


Dish has been carrying TCM-HD since it's inception.Unfortunately TCM has still not shown,after 3 yrs. in existence, any movies in ''true'' HD,relying instead on upconversion,but some of the movies they show look soooo good that it's near impossible to tell the diff.Still it would be nice if they would live up to their name of TCM-"HD".
post #630 of 694
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjbawc View Post

That all sounds normal. I would just point out, again, that if TCM is showing a 4x3 film, you are better off recording it from TCM SD, because it will fill the screen top to bottom, with out zooming. Also, it will be displayed properly with your TV set to '4x3,' instead of "wide mode," so you are using more of the DVD's pixels to capture the image, than if you recorded a 4x3 film from TCM-HD.

Hey kjbawk,you won't think much of this,but i prefer the TCM-HD? feed over the SD feed because i like the cleaner,sharper image.The SD feed is waay to soft for my liking,and i don't mind the pillarboxing,but only because IMHO,the pic.is that much better from the HD feed.As for a few wasted pixels,i can live with that too because the quality of the HD feed is so much better,it more than compensates for the loss of a few pixels. But my attitude isn't so cavalier AFA AR when i record from any other channel,only TCM.
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