Cheaper Component to S-Video Converter - Page 4

Goose, don't forget that most people likely have no idea that the Lenkeng converter is available at Deal Extreme for $52, and it is in fact priced higher at other outlets. So I think you'd likely make your money back if you wanted to list it on ebay.

V7Goose, I don't know if you were just unlucky, or I was just lucky, but I have been using a Lenkeng for months now, between my Comcast Moto 6412 and my Pio 640. I have noticed no color banding, or problems whatsoever. The picture was just a tiny bit darker, in side-by-side comparisons with the component picture, using my PIP. But, the Pio offers a full range of picture adjustments on its inputs, so I adjusted for that. I have made MANY anamorphic DVDs with it, and all have been good, better than zooming a LB picture. My only complaint is that there is just a tiny bit of vertical stretching, unnoticeable except in my side-by-side comparisons.

I am glad to hear that it strips copy protection! I have meant to try that, but temporary rewiring with my system is a PITA, so I haven't done it. But, now that I know I can use it to make a PAL>NTSC conversion with my Oppo 980 of the 1986 Australian film Bliss, which is unavailable in NTSC, I will set up and do that!

Hi, newbie here. I also bought the $52.00 Lenkeng converter. Have had the same problem as other people here,with a pic. so dark as to be unwatchable no matter what adjustments i make. Then i hooked up my Sima ct-2 in tandem w/ the Lenkeng converter and PRESTO! instant perfect pic. I don't know why it works,but it does. So my $ isn't wasted afterall,and i get the proper AR from my sat. receiver box,and can record to any of my 3 dvdr's. So if u have a video filter it will make your converter work like it should.

AN UPDATE: Using a phillips 3576H DVDR to record a movie, i found that i must view the movie thru the s-video or component video of my tv's inputs. Using HDMI produces poor results like pillarboxing, letterboxing,or a postage stamp. Also a very dark screen image,even when using a Sima CT-2 between the Lenkeng converter and dvdr. Using the Sima VF and viewing tv thru any input other than HDMI produces very good results.

Anyone tried the AV Toolbox VS-223? If so please provide comments. Thanks.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc..._to_CS_SV.html

This device looks exactly like the Ambery Down Converter which did not work for me and my cable HD box (Scientific Atlantic Explorer 8300HD).

I think with any of these devices the main priority should be how generous the return policy is. If it doesn't work for you and you can't return it, it doesn't matter how cheap it was, it was wasted money.
I was going to say it looked rather well built and the case even looked similar to another high quality(but expensive) converter that was made of aluminum. Of course I'm just going off the photo, which could be deceiving. IMO if they take the effort to make the case out of metal(especially Au) hopefully that quality should carry on to the innards, but again I have no proof of this.

I own the Ambery unit and it works great for me. The only thing I was unhappy about was the cost. Not sure what the problem was JoRodd, but it worked as advertised for me.

Did you see any reduction in brightness or changes in color? Does it remove copy protection?

Well it finally came in stock! Who's going to be the first to try one out?? I'd be interested to here how it handles CP......
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

It seems that is just a Monoprice rebadged Lenkeng LKV-7611. Not sure if there is any practical difference. I may give it a shot through Monoprice though.

I agree about it being a Lenkeng clone although at least one member has had good luck with his Lenkeng(a few others haven't) but with MP the shipping isn't unreasonable and if it's a dud returning it shouldn't be a problem.

They do look alike except for the order of the RGB inputs and the price (almost 1/2-price at Monoprice).

If you try one, please post your impressions... lots of people will want to know!

Well, don't forget about the $50 one at Deal Extreme.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.22844

The Lenkeng in its various forms can be had for $50 elsewhere. But again, I'd feel a bit better ordering the Monoprice version. Though it might be worth a call to check if it is simply a rebadged Lenkeng.

Good catch, that is odd......wonder if it's why some people are having problems with the Lenkeng, maybe the connectors are mislabeled?
The brick power supplies are also different, the MP one is 5v 2a and horizontal while the Extreme Deals one is 5v 1a and vertical.

Upon further reading it looks like the Extreme Deals one outputs both S-video and composite(and lists that as a feature) while the MP one has a switch and I assume only outputs one or the other(although it's features also list -Simultaneously output Composite Video and S-Video......then why would they need the switch?...
The MP converter is model LKV-7611 sure sounds like LenKengVideo...

Dear AVS Forum,

I wish to start recording material I've recorded to my cable box to DVDs (I'm getting rid of Time Warner and switching to Fios, so if I don't move my you-know-what I will lose hours of irreplaceable material). I wish to record them in widescreen (though I realize the recordings would still be SD). Many of these items are longer than will fit on a standard DVD at SP speed (2 hrs. 20 mins. is the max at that speed, as I understand), operas, news events, and so on. So I will be using LP for a lot of the material.

So I have three questions: 1) Are there certain DVD recorders which have a well-deserved reputation of giving better quality at the slower speeds than others?
2) I heard an unpleasant rumor from someone that one CANNOT record widescreen on DVDs at any speed less than SP. Please tell me this is not true.
3) Finally I am looking for a DVD recorder that would do particularly well quality-wise in upconverting my widescreen SD recordings to HD playback through its HDMI or component outputs.

Before anyone expresses concern that this is slightly off-topic, let me hasten to add that I cannot use the S-video out either of my old Time Warner cable box or my new Fios box, since both put out letterbox instead of widescreen with HD material. Consequently, in addition to a good DVD recorder, I am also in the market for a good HD component to S-video converter. Two things in particular are important for me in this regard:
1) First, I would like the converter to be able to handle HD component as well as SD component so I will not have to downgrade my cable box's output to 480i every time I record to a DVD.
2) I would also like the converter to create a halfway-house output on its S-Video and its composite output side, one where the signal has been downgraded to 480i but where the screen raster has NOT been downsized to anamorphic 4x3 or to letterbox 4x3, but rather has been allowed to remain in widescreen 16x9 mode.

Hope all the above makes sense, and I look forward to hearing from you.

Best wishes,

Charles

I'm seriously thinking of getting one. I am one of the two or three people who have had good luck with a Lenkeng. I ordered mine from Deal extreme. It was cheap, but it took a while to get here from China. I trust Monoprice. I think that if they are carrying them, they have tried them, and found that they work. If they don't Monoprice will take them back.

Currently, I have one hooked up to a Comcast Motorola DCX3400. It allows me to make anamorphic DVDs with my Pio 640. If I get a second, it will go between my Oppo PAL>NTSC converting DVD player and my 640. I am assuming that this converter will strip copy protection, just as the Lenkeng does, so I can make dubs of copy protected DVDs, including PAL ones.

I don't think this converter strips CP but rather I believe component may not have CP, I could be wrong.

Criggs,
1. Panasonic is the only current recorder that will record much over 2hrs(up to 4hrs) and still retain full D1 resolution. Personally I try and not go much over 2hrs 42 minutes, maybe up to 3hrs, otherwise macroblocking in areas of fast movement becomes a problem. Since Panasonic jumps from 2hrs(SP) to 4hrs(LP) in it's canned speeds, you must use FR for inbetween speeds. FR isn't as handy as a canned speed for DVDs with multiple titles but with a little figuring it can be done quite easily.

2. The Lenkeng converter does not have passthru for component but this one seems to, although at $209 it's much more expensive(and looks better made) than the others.

It seems like the Ambrey converter will do everything you want, although it's the most expensive. If you could get by without the component passthru I'd give the Lenkeng from MP a try.

Note no current US DVDR will set the Wide Screen bit. What this means is if you record wide screen material to DVD and then play that DVD back on a old 4:3 TV the picture won't be letterboxed but rather everyone will look tall and skinny(the whole 16:9 image will be inside a 4:3 frame. If you only have 16:9 TVs(like I do) this won't be a issue and you'll get nice 16:9 recordings. Some people use a computer and program to set the bit after the recording.
In your case you could get buy with the cheaper line input EA-18 or easier to find EZ-28 with tuner both from Panasonic.
If you wanted to go with a international Panasonic w/HDD (from $250(floor model)and up)), they would set the WS bit and also make FR recordings much easier.

I believe that component can carry CP, just the same as S-Vid, and composite, but it is a different CP than that used in HDMI. But I, too, could be wrong.

What I do recall is that another poster using a Lenkeng tried to copy a commercial DVD with CP, and was able to do it. I can't copy the S-Vid output from my DVD player, of CP DVDs.

Yes, CP in component us very different than CP in HDMI. First, remember that HDMI is a digital interface, where composite, S-Video, and component are all analog formats.

I heard of using a component to USB device in order to get the HD from a cable box to your PC. I did some searching but only found composite to USB converters. Does anyone know of one with component inputs? Obviously you would need a PC, but it may be worth the extra step if you really wanted a program in full screen 16:9.

Yes they are available. I can't vouch for any of em but they are out there.
Here is one with component to usb from Black Magic for $149.
http://www.blackmagic-design.com/pro...videorecorder/

Well, I gotta say I'm starting to get a tad frustrated.

After combing through online reviews I had found the CNet Panasonic EA18k review compelling and reassuring. I can't get one in my local brick-and-mortar store (I prefer buying items like this in person to online), but there are plenty of stores which sell the one just above that with the tuner, the EZ28K.

But then I read all the user reviews. --

-- and their take is TOTALLY DIFFERENT. Again and again they excoriate this line of Panasonics as unreliable, slow-operating, junk. Again and again, it seems, they treat us to the same horror story where these Panasonic units are concerned: beautiful picture, and the unit dies 1 to 6 months after purchase. And this is all so DESPITE the fact that there is universal agreement that the Panasonic LP speed blows away the competition, hands down.

So I'm back to the drawing board. I guess what I now want to know is what is the SECOND-BEST LP speed available on the market, since the Panasonics are apparently made of extraordinarily high-grade and dramatically superior tissue paper.


The component pass-through strikes me as an expensive bell-and-whistle, one I don't really need. One of the nice things about the Verizon Motorola is that it feeds simultaneously out of the HDMI and the component outputs. So what I'm thinking of doing is leaving the HDMI connected to my HDTV, connecting the component out to my converter, connecting the S-Video out of the converter to my DVD recorder, and then connecting the HD component out of the recorder to the component in of my HDTV

Yes, my component input on my HDTV will then NOT be true HD, since the DVD recorder only records in SD. But who cares? I can always switch to the HDMI input for that.

Which is why I went with the Video Converter from Sewell, for $50 (is that the same as the Lenkeng?). The cheapness makes me nervous, but if it turns out to be a lemon at least I'm only out $50 rather than $150. By the way, some of these HD component to S-Video converters also helpfully constrain the video in the 4:3 space, which is obviously what I DON'T want. I called the manufacturers of ALL SEVEN CURRENTLY AVAILABLE HD COMPONENT TO S-VIDEO CONVERTERS, and discovered some do force into 4:3, others don't. Sewell insists theirs doesn't, and so does SVIDEO about their Apple TV Converter. Another nice thing about SVIDEO is that they now have a Converter that accepts HD component. So, if the Sewell unit doesn't work out, I'm figuring on going with the Apple. And no one answered the phone at Ambery, in spite of repeated calls during business hours.

Speaking of which, how's this for a question. If I succeed in making all my recordings in widescreen, what difference does it make if I watch my recordings using the S-Video input on my HDTV or the component input on my HDTV? Since it's all SD anyway, and since the S-Video output is already widescreen, will there still be a discernible difference in quality? In fact, might it not be superior, considering the fact that the HD component out might have artifacts resulting from the "upconvert"?


This is EXACTLY my situation. The only TV I have is HD 16:9. So are you saying this means that I will NEVER have to worry about making any sort of adjustment on the DVD recorder, or tweaking or toggling ANY of its parameters? That as long as I succeed in feeding it widescreen SD I'm good to go no matter what? And that it will never make any difference whether I use DVD-R or DVD+R or DVR-RW of DVR+RW or DVD-RAM?

And, as along as we're talking about DVD formats, in what flavors are Dual Layer available?

I also understand that using VR mode minimizes the likelihood of falling afoul of copy protection. Is it possible to record in VR mode on a Dual Layer DVD? Are there any DVD formats where it is IMPOSSIBLE to record in VR mode?

Also, I've read a few remarks about how sometimes, after finalizing, the Panasonic will play back a widescreen SD recording in anamorphic, squeezed, SD rather than full 16:9 SD. If that's the case with other units as well, can I get away with NEVER finalizing a disc?

Also, what's this I hear about NO WIDESCREEN RECORDING being possible if the speed is less than SP?


I want to get the cheapest DVD recorder possible that 1) is reasonably long-lasting, durable and reliable and 2) gives decent quality at LP. I don't care if it doesn't have a hard drive, and I frankly don't care about the onboard tuner either, since I'm keeping my Verizon DVR, and can always feed that direct to the recorder. That's why the 18 was my original first choice over the 28, and the reason I briefly flirted with the 28 was only because it was available from the big reliable stores in New York (J&R, Best Buy, and so on).

Of course, now that I know that the Panasonics have the lifespan of a mayfly, I guess I'm back to square 1.

Don't over think this. You'll never find the perfect recorder. I've made hundreds of DVD's on my EZ-27 which by all accounts sucks. I got it for $30 on ebay, so if it eventually croaks, no big loss. But it still works perfectly. I think most who have see bugs and reliability problems are those who use these daily as DVR's. When you take tuners and timers out of the mix, problems go way down. If I were you, I'd grab whatever cheap panny I could find and move on with my life.

First of all, thank you for your honesty and your genuine desire to help me out of a situation that seems to be taking up more energy than I had originally expected.

However, to be frank, I'm interested in purchasing something that I can depend on to be around for half a decade or so. In line with that, I want to buy a new unit, not a refurbished/resold/ebay "find", though I acknowledge that very good deals of that sort are out there.

So, assuming that Panasonics are non-starters and that used recorders are non-starters, which would you recommend, assuming that, in addition to the criteria I laid out in my previous message, I also would like a unit with a reasonable reputation for longevity?

Thanks very much for thinking about this; I appreciate it!

Just recd new monoprice converter. Initial tests positive.
CPRM removed. No color banding. Pic is NOT dark or blurry, as others have reported when using the Lenkeng filter. Seems normal.

Undecided whether recorded pic is "softer". Test content is "soft" to begin with. More testing needed.

Details of initial test.
U-verse HDD receiver is new Cisco unit, with 250gb HDD.
No coax in U-verse network.

Output from U-verse receiver set to 480i for initial tests.
Then to 1080i briefly for more testing.

U-verse content recorded via MP converter was copy-protected Chiller TV show (Twin Peaks pilot). Do not have HBO (or other 1080i protected "premium content") to test.

1. component video out from U-verse receiver to MP converter. SVHS out to Pioneer 220 #1 recorder. Audio direct from U-verse to Pioneer 220 #1.
2. component video out from U-verse receiver to Pioneer 220 #2. second audio direct from U-verse to Pioneer 220 #2. Pio 220 #2 was baseline system.
3. Playback of copy protected content to both recorders simultaneously.
Pio #1 recorded without CPRM putting unit into pause.
Pio #2 did NOT record content. Msg "This content is copy protected."

Addl tests over next few days.
1. Substitute Sony GX7 recorders for Pio 220 recorders.
2. Attempt recording of Blu-Ray content from Sony 350 player.
Insert MP converter between Sony 350 and Pio 220 recorder.

Any other tests?

You've already got some good recommendations from the real experts on the board, but you'll never beat panny's PQ. I've been around the block a few times and had many different recorders over the years (sony, toshiba, polaroid, magnavox, philips, etc.), and nothing beats panny PQ-wise, which is my top priority. Returns on ebay are usually as good as new. Usually the previous owner just couldn't figure out how to use it. I've bought many recorders that way and never been burned. But I understand if you don't want to go that route.

DVD recorders in general just aren't very reliable. There are always media compatibility issues, spindles get worn or dirty, belts break or stretch. It's the nature of the beast. I'd take PQ over reliability any day because you'll be watching the final product many years after the recorder you made it on went to the landfill.

I'd look at some of DigaDo's posts before totally ruling out panasonic. He can tell you exactly how long a particular panny model will last and how to fix it when it starts to wear out. I've made hundreds of DVDs on supposedly the worst panasonic models ever made, but he's made thousands on many different panasonic models.

[quote=criggs;19260786]

. By the way, some of these HD component to S-Video converters also helpfully constrain the video in the 4:3 space, which is obviously what I DON'T want. I called the manufacturers of ALL SEVEN CURRENTLY AVAILABLE HD COMPONENT TO S-VIDEO CONVERTERS, and discovered some do force into 4:3, others don't.

I own an Atlona AT-comp500,and what it does is give me stretch-o-vision when i first turn it on. An example of this is when i record from TCM-HD. The AR is normal for the first few seconds then whamo! i've got a s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d pic. but it also stretches a 16x9 pic. too,like when i record from MGM-HD. I found a way to compensate for this though. I turn everything on,then wait for the stretch,after the stretch i hit the menu button on the remote control for my SAT receiver box and bring up the menu and in about 2 sec. the pic. snaps back to normal and stays that way. For unattended timer recordings i set everything up,wait for the stretch then hit the menu button,wait for the snap back,then leaving my SAT receiver and converter "ON". i walk away and go to work. When i come home i have a good recording.

BTW,i found out that the Ambrey converter does the same thing. If you go to the Ambrey website you can read the owners manual.On p.3 under "note" it explains this. In the owners manual for the Atlona converter they give definite reasons for this,but i can't remember what it says. Other than this little quirk the Atlona AT-comp500 works VERY well with only the expected degradation of PQ when downrezzing from HD to SD. The pic is bright but not to bright and the colors are true.Also,there doesn't seem to be any softening of the pic either. The Atlona converter is made for commercial use and as such is meant to be powered on 24/7 so there's no problem with leaving it on for hours at a time. G.

Criggs,
We really shouldn't be debating the merits of any particular brand of DVDR in this thread, it's really titled " Cheaper Component to S-Video Converter" but I'll follow up with one more post.

As mdavej said, the nature of DVD recorders is iffy at best, they just aren't 99.99% reliable like VCRs of the past. Of the current US models I'd probably rate the Magnavox 2160a or it's replacement the 513 as the most reliable for day to day use. The downside in your case is Magnavox drops resolution to 1/2 D1 on any speed above SP. You said you wanted full resolution over SP so I don't think the Maggy is your best choice.
Older ES series Panasonics are very reliable, on par with the Maggys, problem is none are new anymore and you wanted a new recorder.
Again as dave said most of the problems with current Panasonics arise from the tuner(this is also a problem with almost all other DVDRs except maybe the Maggy which seems to have got it right). I suggested the EA-18 since you said you didn't need the tuner, problem is AFAIK no store sells the EA-18 B&M. You can find the EZ-28 and if you only used it's line inputs you should have similar reliability as the EA-18.
No other brand except the late Pioneer kept full D1 past SP so if that's a must then you have no other choice other than a Panasonic for a new product.

With a Panasonic you can use ANY speed or ANY disc and still get 16:9 recordings, as said before only RAM discs will have the WS bit set, which enables letterboxing on a 4:3 TV. If you have a 16:9 TV you'll have NO problems and just leave your TV set to STRETCH or as I do, have your DVD player(or the Panasonic DVDR if that's what you'll use for a player) set to FULL for 4:3 source and leave your TV set to FULL. When you play a DVD if it's 16:9 it won't do any stretching but if it detects 4:3 source it will return it to it's proper 16:9 aspect. Note if your recordings are truly 4:3 it will also stretch these to 16:9 so if you don't like the W-I-D-E- effect then turn it OFF when you play true 4:3 material. I just leave mine on WIDE all the time and live with wider people with 4:3 source.

If you keep your spindle clean(yearly cleanings in dusty environments) and use quality media(Ty, Verbs, Sony) you should get maybe 99% or better recording reliability. DL media is slightly more problem prone so keep that in mind if going that route. For DL media only use Verbs +R DL(2.4x) or Ty -R DL. Anything else will have higher failure rates.

garyjo, thanks for the review of the MP converter, sounds good. Do your notice any PQ difference if feeding it a true HD signal(720p/1080i/1080p) vs 480i? I'd be most interested in a true HD source like primtime TV, not just a HD upconvert.
If the MP device didn't raise the black level I might just get it for backing up my DVDs. I'd go component out DVD player to S-video input of my DVDR. For the price it's less than 1/2 of what I paid for my Sima's and that was 5 years ago.

So I've started a new thread, entitled Pros and Cons of Magnavox vs. Panasonic DVD Recorders, and have started it off with a reply to this latest message from you.

Thanks for the very helpful discussion!