Philips DVDR3575H/37 160G HDD DVD Recorder w/ ATSC tuner - Page 157  

If this IS a problem involving the cable box (and it's not the same old false "you can't make a DVD from this recording" signal so many have had), it's very possible a video filter could solve the problem.

I'll see about getting links to where you can buy them.

Try these for filters-

http://www.xdimax.com/grex/grex.html

http://www.world-import.com/dp-x7000.htm

http://home.roadrunner.com/~filter/

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

I don't know about "the so many have had" part of your statement. I don't think there have been 10 people that have reported this problem with the Philips 75 or 76 in the Philips HDD forums for programs recorded using the built in tuner. Attempts to duplicate prerecorded programs using the line inputs are a completely separate issue, at least in my mind. I have NEVER seen the problem with my 75 or my 76. I believe that most of the reports started when the 0x93 tuner appeared in the 76 and my units have older tuners. I suspect that the 0x93 tuner is reacting to a real flag that previous tuner versions and other manufacturer's tuners ignored.

If memory serves, for a forum this size, there were far too many cases of the machine getting those anti-dub flags, whether legit or not. My other 76, only about a month older I think, has NEVER gotten one.

When I tried using an external tuner with my flag-prone 76 it didn't get the flags. When I used the built-in tuner, also using an antenna, it frequently did. While it sometimes did NOT get a flag on its own tuner, it NEVER got one using the external one.

Once or twice I even tried stopping the recording half way thru and switching to the other source before going on and recording more. Whether the 76's own tuner did the first half or the second, it came out flagged, whereas the recordings from the external source never did.

Still, I'm just being cautious. Who knows what the real story was, since we never got a straight answer from Philips, that I'm aware of.

As for the later 76's being "more sensitive" or more "attentive" to the flags, to the best of my knowledge the Maggie 2160s, newer still, have NEVER been reported to get such flags. (Of course, they don't finalize their own discs unless you delete every timer-recording event you have set up; you then have to put those back in again after finalizing a DVD. )

I don't remember what forum I read it in, but I seem to recall a discusion of other units that were detecting OTA copy protection flags. There seemed to be speculation that there was a time window issue when tuners honored the flags. Old units would have assumed that it was unneceassary under the "fair use" doctrines that has exempted VCRs for personal use. Then there was a time window when the copyright owners seemed to have been able to make a case that digital recorders had to honor the flags, even OTA. Then the claim was that they lost the arguement. I don't recall that anyone could point to final court decisions. If true, it would explain why the oldest and newest digital tuners would ignore the anti-copy flag, while some in between would honor it. The manufactures would not want to honor copy protection, if they did not have to, since it would make their products more valuable.

Hi! I got my 3576H about a year ago, and I'm quite happy. I used mostly the analog tuner until the start of June. It's working pretty well still, but I have just a few questions for you guys

1 If I don't want to watch channel 2.3 and want to remove it from the list of scanned channels, does that remove 2.1 and 2.2 too? It seems so for me and I don't like that.

2 Has there been a new version of the firmware in the last 12 months or so? There was one more than 12 months ago, but it predated the version on my machine. It works well but I still see so many areas for improvement, I really hope there is new firmware. i''ve tried to read all the posts for the last year, but I haven't found this topic. Maybe I missed it.

3 FYI When recording, I would lose, every day, about 5 seconds 10 or 20 seconds at the start of the recording, so for the show I record where the first 30 seconds matter, I start the recording 1 minute early. I don't care if there 5 seconds missing before my program starts. This one is not a question. I just wanted to point out the issue.

4 When recording an OTA show with a lot of talking, I notice that I miss a word every day or two. Every 5 or 6 days it's a word that matters and I replay my recording (to the harddrive) but I still can't get the word. I was using SLP mode, so I swttched to the next slower mode. It didn't really seem to help. Do you think the next slower or the slowest would avoid that problem, or is it the OTA?

5 I went to the Philips website to look for new firmware and it didn't even have the 3576 model. It stopped with an earlier model. Is there some other company or website that now supports the 3576

6 These Copy Protectin flags you keep talking about. I record OTA. Are the flags visible to me too?. I haven't noticed anything. I record to the hard drive exclusively, although I expect I will want to copy something to a DVD eventually.

7. FYI I wanted to remind everyone with an analog tv that you can take the co-ax output from the DVDR and send it to an RF modulator (which costs about 20 dollars) and that will convert it to channel 3 (or 4, your choice?) and then you can route more cable to your tvs.

You don't have to use AV jacks on your tv, especially on my tvs which don't have them. The RF modulator came probably from Amazon and it turns on automatically when the DVDR goes on, then turns off 20 seconds after it turns off. It has 4 buttons to choose outputs, but I just use one output, then I split the signal to go to 8 tvs in different rooms (including one bathroom and the unfinished attic.) It's actually much simpler now than it was, because I can only change the channel in one place. Used to be I had to remember if a tv was on channel 3 or not, which tv got better reception for which channel.

Thanks. Mike

The new addition to our household is a Magnavox ZV450MW8A of August 2008 manufacture.

Photo one shows this tuner information:

UTUNNTUSP034
U1023AF
LOT FVHI A

Photo two shows this DVD Drive information:

N78FODUM
1VM222812 G (2)

This Magnavox ZV450MW8A was initially connected to an antenna. An ATSC channel scan was run. Reception of local ATSC channels was normal.

Later this Magnavox was connected to the Comcast coax feed. A cable analog/digital channel scan was run. A Zenith DTT901 CECB was connected to a line input for reception of local ATSC broadcast channels not carried by Comcast. Test recordings were made. Scheduled recordings were programmed. So far this Magnavox is maintaining its hold on the clear QAM channels.

Photo three shows the DTV CBA module (in the background behind the VHS drum).

No firmware for user download & installation has been released for the 3576. A download for the 3575 is on the Philips support site but nothing for the 3576.

3576 support:
http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/d...&scy=US&slg=en

I just bought a 3576 open box and want to hook it up as a second off air tuner and hook up with my Dish 622. I don't have an owner's manual, but will search for one shortly. I would like to record one off air program while watching another off the air channel.

I also want to transfer video (SD) from my 622 to burn dvd's. Finally, is it possible to use the 3576 unit's hard drive as a backup hard drive for the 622? If so, how do I do that. Thanks.

You can connect as shown in Sketch 4 here, including the "Optional" connections shown by dotted lines, which show how to add antenna or cable to a satellite system.

Read the text in that help file also to get an idea of how things should work when connected properly.

The 3576 can't be a "backup" HDD for the 622 in the normal sense of a backup cuz the 3576 needs the 622 to decrypt the signal sent via the satellite... no consumer DVDR's tuner can "read" a satellite signal and record it as video and audio streams, like OTA antenna or cable signals.

Thanks, I just found the operation thread for the 3576. I thought it might work as a backup HD unit for the Dish because the Dish 622 accepts external hard drives for extra storage.

"Thanks, I just found the operation thread for the 3576.."

There is an operation thread for the 3576??? I've only found this thread for the 3575, which I figure includes both of them.

Click #1 in my signature... covers 3575/3576 and 2160 (2080 also to some extent).

Hi:

It looks like WNED has added a subchannel with WNED-FM 94.5. I discovered this while surfing on my Magnavox H2080MW8 DVR. When I landed on 17.3 it was the program WorldFocus but the soundtrack was classical music. After awhile of listening the music ended and the announcer came on and said you are listening to WNED-FM 94.5. I then checked on my Artec T3APRO converter box. There was no music detected and the soundtrack was correct for the program, ie audio of a news program. I tried cycling the audio button on the Artec from english1 to english2 but no change there. I also went back to the Magnavox and changed the audio from stereo to sap to see if I could get it to give the correct audio. No go, it was still the 94.5 FM audio. I then tried finding it on my Artec by inputting subchannels from 43.1 to 43.12 but couldn't find it. So I guess that it is meant to be hidden from us. Now, I understand that the Rochester PBS has been doing this for a while now. When i've received them from tropo a little while ago I don't recall this type of problem on their 21.3 subchannel. So, I don't think that it is my equipment as such(I hope!). I'm betting that they have implemented something incorrectly and will fix it soon (I hope!). In the meantime I wonder if there is anybody from the Buffalo/Toronto areas who have a Philips 3575/76 or Magnavox 2160/2080 and can check that channel to see if they are getting the same or any old tuner for that matter. That's WNED 17.3 Thinkbright.

Thanks

Edit:

Hi Again:

I don't know what to say, but it seems to have been corrected. I just checked and the soundtracks between the Artec and Mag are now in sync. The program was called Onstage. I had noticed this problem initially last night. I guess I will keep monitoring and I apologize for any inconvenience.

Edit2:

1)The WNED-FM feed is now back on 17.3.

2)A member on another website, using a Philips 3505 has also been experiencing the same issues. That member has reported that this has been happening on and off for the last week. So, it looks like it may be a Philips/Magnavox specific bug of some type. Therefore i'm wondering if this will also affect later Mag/Philips units.

3)I've posted this post to a number of threads here on AVSForum that cover the Philips and Magnavox units. In order to facilitate a single easy to follow discussion it would be easier if you could please post your replies to the " Buffalo, NY - HDTV" thread over
here, as suggested by another member.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=137214

Edit 3:

Problem solved- solution: use the audio button to cycle through the available audio streams for each channel.

I didn't realize that the audio button works with the digital side only and going through the menu system, which allows you to select between stereo/sap, only applies to the analog side. When I tried going through the menu system, I guess I assumed that whatever was there applied for both sides. In fact it does allow you to choose stereo/sap, even though you're tuned to a digital channel. So I guess that that kind of made me assume that those were the only choices. From there I jumped to the conclusion that it must be due to a bug or improper implementation on WNED's part.

Of course, if you haven't already guessed, I haven't read the manual. I guess I ought to crack it open and get acquainted with it so that I don't jump the gun in the future.

I just want to apologize for jumping the gun and wasting bandwidth.

Crazy question:
I have an APEX digital converter box with a "Smart Antenna" connection that I would like to try it out.

Is it possible to feed the APEX box with a Smart antenna input and use the TV out (analog pass through) out of it (APEX Converter) to feed the Phillips antenna input?

Am I on to anything that will work?

Hope you get a decent offer!

I hate the refurbed DVDR3575H/37 I picked up from Overstock.com. Its QAM tuner is flakey and its remote off-axis reception is limited.
http://www.overstock.com/Electronics...47&PID=3136390

I want to keep the bound manual for convenient reference but a replacement can be downloaded here:
http://www.p4c.philips.com/files/d/d...7e_dfu_aen.pdf

If anyone has a use for this 3575H POS you can have the recorder (which looks 'like new'); the remote (which looks 'excellent'); the original supplied batteries still sealed in plastic wrap; the Quick Start Guide (in English, Spanish, and French); no cables or manual; all in the original Philips refurb box for $65. ($50 + $15 shipping) Send me a PM.

In April I purchased a refurbished Philips 3576 (of February 2008 manufacture) from overstock.com for $219.99. When this 3576 became useless as a clear QAM tuner I set it up for ATSC (OTA) reception where it is satisfactory for recording local broadcast sub-channels not carried by Comcast or where there are scheduled recording conflicts among local "must carry" broadcast stations.

anyone still trying to sell their DVDR3575H/37? I'd like to get one if they are still available.

Thanks.

Does anyone have problems with the picture being really dark on the Philips DVDR 3537? Mine is just over a year old and not under warranty anymore.

Not sure which DVDR you're asking about cuz there is a 3505/3537, but here's some info on the 3575/37.

Here's the "Bottom Line" note in the help file for dark pic problem:

"BOTTOM LINE: If you get a dark pic thru HDMI on a 720p or 1080p HDTV, try both HDMI settings for Format (YCbCr and RGB) and RGB Range, as described here. If HDMI settings don't help, Component and S-Video output are one option for a brighter pic, as is returning the unit.

If you get a dark pic with a 720p (768p) HDTV (check specs), don't send 720p over HDMI. Instead, try your HDMI at 480p. If you can also find a specific setting like Panasonic have under Menu > Picture > Advanced Picture > HD Size > ["Size 1" or "Size 2"], try both. Size 2 is exact pixel mapping and that's prob. your best bet to get a lighter and better pic?"

I have the same trouble. I've fooled with all the settings and thought I had it fixed, but it's still dark. Do they even sell these anymore?

I would like to attain the highest quality possible when importing video from an external device to the Philips DVDR3575H/37. I would like to use the external devices component video outputs:

1) Does such a thing as a component to DV (4 pin) cable exist?

2) How about a component to coax?

I'm assuming no, as I've looked online and came up empty. I may be trying to way over-simplify this, but what I was hoping to do, without modulators, scalers, converters, etc; was to achieve the highest possible digital video signal when importing to the Philips.

As far as I understand the situation (Please correct me, if I'm wrong.), there are two ways to import a digital video into the Philips DVDR3575H/37: the DV input connection on the front and the coax connection on the back.

The s-video and composite inputs will provide for analog only, and so the quality will be inferior. I was hoping to be able to record an external source using component video cables and keep the video entirely in the digital format.

I have an old Pyro A/V Link video converter box, but it only appears to output video in analog, or at least that's all the Philips seems capable of handling. If anyone has tried anything similar (i.e., routing an external device through a HD camcorder into the DV input), or has any tips on how to get the highest quality, digital video imports, I'd appreciate hearing about them.

@ nathanbrand, you might want to take a look at this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=599173 . SD recording is as good as it gets.

I'm aware that the Philips DVDR3575H/37 can only record in SD not HD ("all HD video will be down-converted"), but what I want to do is import video in SD 480i digital, not analog, to try and improve the signal quality.

Thanks for sending along the link to that discussion thread though. It was interesting to see that the Philips/Magnavox recorders used to come with component inputs not too long ago.

I've also been looking around a bit, and apparently there is no such thing as a component to coax, or component to DV cable. It appears the only way to accomplish this is through converters that can cost hundreds of dollars.

High Definition recording to devices that do not record to removable media (DVDs) is addressed in this sub-forum:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=42

In order to to that you would have to have digital output on the transmitting device as well as digital input on the recorder. The common digital transports used are HDMI, DV (1394/firewire) and USB. No recorders have HDMI and never will; I'm not aware of any that have USB inputs; several have DV inputs for importing camcorder footage. Composite, S-Video and YPbPr Component connections of most consumer devices are all analog. There are converters that will convert analog component to S-Video, which is useful for output devices that will only output anamorphic widescreen over their component outputs (most cable boxes). But basically, S-Video input to a recorder is as good as it gets. If the source is good quality the recording will look good.

Devices with Y'CbCr digital component output are not very common, yet. Is yours Y'CbCr output?

I checked the specs and the device does have Y'CbCr digital component outputs. The Pyro A/V Link converter will allow me to export an A/V signal via DV or S-Video to the Philips DVDR3575H/37 recorder. (The Pyro also has a digital/analog source switch.) The DVD recorder has a 4 pin DV input or S-Video input. Which one of these will yield a higher quality image?

I'm assuming it's the DV input, but I tried exporting to both DV and S-Video inputs and did not see much, if any difference, in quality. That may be because the Philips down-converts everything to SD anyway, so I'm not sure if it even matters.

The recordings are good quality, but I'm just trying to insure I'm getting the best quality possible.

I've had my 3576 for a couple of years now and been very happy. The unit was in my office and successfully outputting to the TV there (via component cables) and to the living room (via HDMI). I recently "upgraded" my configuration to take advantage of my TV's PiP -- changing the component connection to S-video and, at the same time, put an HDMI switch in so that I could send signals from either my 3576 or satellite STB to the living room. The only problem: the HDMI stopped working.

After eliminating possible bad cable problems, I suspected the HDMI switch. Even though it was successfully passing the STB signal and detected that the 3576 was putting out a signal as well -- still, just a blank picture (and no sound) in the living room. In searching, I just found the note that the 3576 won't simultaneously output to HDMI and S-video -- and thought I'd found the problem.

I appear to be wrong: even after unplugging the S-video connection, the HDMI signal still doesn't cause a picture or sound in my living room. Though, oddly, the HDMI switch does see a signal on that line (by which I mean, it displays an LED indicating a signal is present). After disconnecting the S-video, I've tried powering down/up the 3576 -- which still doesn't help. I even tried resetting the options to factory defaults; still no luck.

Can anyone suggest how to restore my HDMI signal? Is it possible that, somehow, the HDMI would have "burned out"? (I know this might, theoretically, be possible if two outputs were shorted...but that was never the case.)

I'm baffled...

Couple of quick thoughts:
1. HDMI switch is auto-sensing and, since the STB is always outputting a signal, the 3576 signal is recognized but not allowed thru?
2. Progressive Scan is ON?

Hi Wajo, thank you for the quick reply (you're dedication to this board -- so consistent and for so long -- is an amazing thing).

Two good ideas:
1. The HDMI does sense signals, but it also has a manual selector. To remove all doubt, I just tried again with the STB disconnected. The 3576 signal still not getting through.
2. Progressive scan verified as off.

I just tried something else I should have done earlier: plugging the HDMI cable from the living room directly into the 3576. (I didn't do it because cable access is so bad, it meant disassembling and reassembling a lot of wires). The direct connection works. Which seems to isolate the problem to the HDMI switch (the unit from Monoprice -- model HDX-401E). I have an RMA from Monoprice, so I guess I'll send it back for a replacement. But I'm guessing that it's more likely to be a design flaw than a single bad unit...

At least I've "proven" (I think) that it's not a 3576 problem...


Thanks Wajo (yet again)...