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Amplifier Selection

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
I'm looking at buying new amplifiers for my systems, and wanted some help making the decision.

What I have:
  • My car: 2000 Maxima
    • 3 JL Audio 10W6 subwoofers (not 10W6v2, original 10W6)
      • Rated 300W RMS each
      • Each dual voice coil
      • 6 ohms each coil
      • With the coils wired in series and the speakers wired in parallel, the 3 subs have a grand total of 4 ohms
    • 1 Kicker KX150.2 Bridged (I know, incredibly underpowered)
    • 1 individually sealed 3-way box
    • Factory Bose system with original sub leads (pre-amp) running to Kicker amp
  • My wife's car: 2005 Maxima
    • Factory Bose system with no original sub

What I want:
  • 1 x 10W6 in my car
    • With the coils wired in parallel, the 1 sub will have a total of 3 ohms
  • 1 x 10W6 in my wife's car (same config)
  • 1 x 10W6 to sell or keep as a spare

The reason I'm wanting to split these subs up is because my wife and I are expecting, and I need to make room in my trunk for a stroller. Sad, I know.

I know that with a 3 ohm setup, I'll at least need an amp rated for 3 ohms or lower. In an ideal situation, I would get an amp with a regulated power supply - like the JL Audio Slash series. I've been considering the 250/1 or the 500/1.

Now, I'm not an enthusiast. I've been told by enthusiasts that JL Audio is all marketing and no meat (as is Bose). That doesn't surprise me. However, my ear isn't yet trained well enough to tell the difference in sound quality, and I want something that won't burn the subs out, or burn itself out. From what I know the JL Audio Slash series is built for applications like this, so that is why I've been considering those the most. Also, my wife's car doesn't have any aftermarket audio equipment installed - nor does it have any pre-amp sub leads - and I've been told that the Slash series is very good in that situation as well.

Regarding gain: I know gain doesn't directly control volume, it controls the input sensitivity. I also know that if the gain is turned way down, the subs don't distort as easily when the volume is turned up. So, by my logic, if I buy an amplifier with a higher rated power and turn the gain way down, then I'll get less distortion when I turn the volume up. Granted, I should be trying to match the gain of the sub amp to the gain of the factory amp (that runs the rest of my speakers).

This leans me to the 500/1 over the 250/1. In addition, the 500/1 amp has a remote bass control knob that would be very useful when we have a sleeping baby in the back seat.

However, I'm open to other suggestions for other amps - as long as you guys think it will fit my systems. If any of my facts are wrong/misguided, let me know. Thanks!!
post #2 of 6
Huge congrats to you and your wife!! Can't help you on any of your questions, though.

Frank
post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
Thanks man!!

Yeah, I have a problem with forums because I actually do research beforehand. Then when I ask a question, it's so specific that it leaves very little room for many answers.
post #4 of 6
I have no personal experience with the newer JL Audio stuff, but I know their older stuff was really nice (subs anyway). Definitely not as fluff as bose though.

If all you are really worried about is blowing the sub you can really get whatever amp you want... You don't have to stick with the JL Audio. If properly calibrated no amp will blow the subs from distortion (because you would adjust the gains to make sure none or very little gets through). On that note (gain) I wouldn't recommend just turning the gain all the way down. I would recommend listening to the stereo about as loud as you would ever imagine you could listen to it and turn the gain on the amp up to where you detect some clipping/distortion - then turn it down just a notch. If you are worried about your wife's listening habits, make sure you have her turn it up as loud as she would ever have it (and make sure she is honest about it ). If it's no up too loud, then just do the same as you would for you.

I have used JBL, Sony, Fosgate, etc as sub amps and all have done fine. There are going to be some that work better for subs than others, but there are plenty of good amps out there. I'm sure you could get 2 decent amps for the same price as one JL Audio though. I don't have a specific one to tell you to get, but out of the ones I've used I like my fosgate amp for my subs. If you didn't care too much about what happens to your Kicker amp you could always try it and see how it does. Absolute worst case you blow a sub and an amp... Probably more likely would just blow the amp (or just the fuse sometimes) and be fine (I've seen that happen plenty of times on customers self installs).

As for the 3 ohm situation, you already seem to be on top of that - I would just recommend getting a 2 ohm mono/bridged (1 ohm stereo if it's a 2 channel) stable amp. As for your wife's car not having any preamp outs, that's fine. Most amps can accept high level inputs (tapping into the stock speakers) for signal - and if you happen to get one that doesn't you can high a high level to low level adapter as well.

Just my $.02. Hope it helps in some way.
post #5 of 6
I think the enthusiasts were talking about JL's amps (relative to competition level gear), not their sub drivers. JL is fine for 'normal' use. Keep in mind that bass level control is often offered in head units (so paying for the extra knob may not be worthwhile).
post #6 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattpattberg View Post

I would recommend listening to the stereo about as loud as you would ever imagine you could listen to it and turn the gain on the amp up to where you detect some clipping/distortion - then turn it down just a notch.

That's a good idea, I'll give it a shot!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg_R View Post

Keep in mind that bass level control is often offered in head units (so paying for the extra knob may not be worthwhile).

Yeah, I had an Alpine head unit in my old '92 Mustang that had a pre-amp level control (labeled "SUB") - and I miss it terribly. If modern car stereos were wired like they were back then, I would gladly replace my current head unit. However, with all this amps-at-every-speaker nonsense and all the integrated stereo/nav/AC/heat/onboard-missle-launcher controls they have now, replacing the head unit, maintaining the sound quality, and maintaining the functionality of the previously integrated controls is a much more expensive venture. Unfortunately, my car (as well as my wife's) still has the factory head unit, so bass level control is still left to the simple bass/treble controls. I wish I were wealthy enough to replace the whole factory system properly...but, as I said earlier, my wife and I are expecting.


Thanks for the input, guys!!
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