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How to install recessed lights

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
Alright, so Home Depot was having a 20% off moving sale on recessed lights. Well I needed some eyeball 4" lights for a wall wash and all they had left was the remodel kits... for $12 each, I figured I'd buy them.

Well, the problem is, I'm not remodeling, I'm new construction I didn't think this would be a problem, but when I went to try and figure out how to mount them, I just kinda stood there blankly.

Has anyone done this before? One option is to just dangle the wire, put up the drywall, then cut a hole in it and mount it.... but I don't trust my wiring skills and would like to try each light circuit before drywall is up.

Anyone have any ideas? Or should I just buy new construction lights, stop being cheap and be done with it?

Nick
post #2 of 8
i believe they make the arms to attach to the smaller remodel gumball lights but the 4 inch cans i dont know about.....you could look into it.
post #3 of 8
Isn't there small clips to be used in three slots in the can body that secure the light to the drywall? The cans are removeable if they use this mounting method.

And are you using insulation in the ceiling? It needs to be kept back from the light.

I'd also recommend several wraps of electrical tape around the electrical connection box to make sure it doesn't rattle.
post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 
Tedd,

Correct there are four clips that normally would press down against the drywall to hold the light in position. The problem is, that I don't have drywall up. I want to mount these lights to the studs, by building a box or using strapping or something like that.

Dugejust,

I've seen the arms you're talking about for the square recessed lights, but not the remodel ones that have the 4" can, then a 5" bar off them that leads to the junction box with the wiring. Maybe they exist though?

Nick
post #5 of 8
You want to mount them after the drywall is up. Otherwise, you'll bury the can and viloate electrical code by having no access to the electrical junction box. Just coil your wire up in the ceiling out of reach of a circle cutter, and carefully mark where you want your cans on the drywall before installing the sheet.

The cans attach to the drywall itself. The can itself has a lip that stops the can from falling up into the ceiling. The clips add force from topside so they are locked into place. I know it doesn't sound solid, but it works far better then I would have given it credit for. Your cans are remodel style, they are designed so they can be removed to enable access to the electrical junction box so your worry about electrical issues is not a problem as the light can be removed for access to the electrical junction box. I'd also suggest a few wraps of electrical tape around the junction box so the lids won't be able to rattle.

You also want to make sure any insulation in the ceiling is kept away from the can.

This is the best thread I have seen to date:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=654719
post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 
Ok, looks like i'm going to have to return them and buy the new construction ones... bummer as these were a great price, but I want to make sure to do it right.

Nick
post #7 of 8
If the cans are properly rated, you can put insulation against them.

All of the wiring will be accessible if you hang the tails and cut holes later. You wire the cans and test them prior to installing them in the ceiling. You can also remove them from the ceiling if there is a problem.

Along the same line of thought- if you aren't building some sort of isolation box around the lights, maybe it is better to have them coupled to the drywall (Acoustically) instead of the joists? Not sure, just throwing it out there for comment.

Good luck,
Tim
post #8 of 8
Thread Starter 


Mercy!

I went to HD and picked up some new construction 4" lights. They're actually pretty sweet in that they're air tight and IC rated. They were too big to fit where I wanted, so I just moved the beam around the soffit. Hopefully, it won't matter that the spacing is 20" now instead of 16"OC.

Nick
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