Overscan can be cured! I have 2 ways of doing it that are available in every calibration I perform. It is one of the most highly sought after modifications I do, and I have been doing it on these and other big screens for well over 10 years.
So can the intermittent problems caused by the way-too-thin soldering job done on the PS board when these units were produced, inevitably resulting in the reported problems later, years down the line.
I have been actively involved in the thread mentioned earlier for 5 years now, and there's no stopping that problem from continuing to occur, one set after another. But there are cost-effective remedies for saving your set, and after my way of doing it has been applied, there are no worries again, from then on. Just send me the PS board and I'll make sure your set has kept on humming, intermittent-free and completely stable, years from now. When I resolder one of these boards, you get my lifetime warranty on my work.
Len - lcaillo - is right, the replacement boards from Pioneer are no better than the originals. But buying a new one is not the way to go, and neither is the typical local repair person. Len I trust completely, and a few other service repair techs I can count on one hand, but 99% of most other local repair people will simply fix what's wrong now, justifiably collect your money because the set is working again, and leave the rest to chance. Later a new set of cold solder joints will fail, and not only will you be back where you started but you may then have damage happen to your set from lightning bolts being sent down into it from those cold solder joints that are not bad now but will go bad later. The earlier ones that go are innocuous, they are just a shot across the bow. The later ones are the ones that will take your set down, and hard. Not heeding that warning shot - the intermittencies - can cost you dearly.
I future proof your PS board against those now-good cold solder joints going bad later, and I lifetime warranty that work.
Another reason to not get a replacement PS board is that your entire set was set up on that original PS board. They are not all identical to each other in the voltages and current levels they put out to the rest of your set, far from it. So any precision you currently have on your set from operating on the original board will immediately become suspect upon the installation of any other board
in there but the one it came with.
Send me your board and I'll keep your set going for you. Turn me loose on your set and I'll make it look young again. Give me free reign and you'll have a dazzling picture, far better than anything you've ever seen from your set before.
If you want proof, please go to page 45 of the thread mentioned earlier -http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...402397&page=45
Scroll down till you see the pretty pictures, and you'll see what your set is actually capable of.
Then go to the last page and see why
your set was malfunctioning the first place! Again, scroll down until you see the pretty pictures of the cold solder joints causing all these problems.
Luckily the PS board is the only one in the unit that suffers from this issue, meaning your set can be corrected permanently.http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...402397&page=90
That's page 90, if you are reading this a while later.
Send me your PS board and I will save your set.