Sony VGX-XL3 - Page 120

OFFSET            CPU ID          Core stepping           CPU sSpec (CPU Name)
000DFFE0        06F6h            B2                      SL9S5 (Intel Core 2 Extreme X6800)
                06F6h              B2                      QTOI (Intel Core 2 Extreme X6800)

000E2FE0        06F5h              B1                      QPHV (Intel Core 2 Extreme X6800)

Hello Stanislav and John,

Curiously, my list shows only one compatible 1066 MHz FSB 'Conroe' Core 2 Extreme X6800; the "SL9S5"

http://ark.intel.com/products/27258/Intel-Core2-Extreme-Processor-X6800-4M-Cache-2_93-GHz-1066-MHz-FSB

PCN/MDDS Information SL9S5

Is it possible that what we are seeing with the 'QTOI' and 'QPHV' references are product number assignments, for runs which were were not actually produced?

Cheers!

Robert.

PS:  Stanislav, I believe that after about 5 regular posts, the daily 'PM' restriction is lifted. You might want to recheck that periodically to see if they have lifted your limit. AVS Forum does this for new members to try to limit the potential for spamming. Makes sense, but is also annoying for our new members.

PPS. I found my own answer. the QTOI and QPHV processors were Intel ConroeXE "Qualification Samples".  I suspect that all of the 4-character alphanumeric designations beginning with "Q" may also merely be Qualification Samples for that product otherwise identified with the standard 5-character product code.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kepocuhka 

When unsupported CPU was installed, but his name is present in CPU table, BIOS will load default setting's for it:
FSB=66MHz multiplier=same as CPU have

FASTEST CPU's that already support (exclude Xeon CPU's that same as Core 2 Quad):
Dual core:
SL9S5 (Intel Core 2 Extreme X6800)

Quad core:
SL9UM (Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600)
SL9UL (Intel Core 2 Extreme QX6700)
SL9UK (Intel Core 2 Extreme QX6800)
 

Hello Stanislav,

I found the performance test passmarks / CPU marks for those processors  [compared to the Core 2 Duo E6300 and E6400 units which shipped OEM in the XL201, XL202, XL301, XL302 and XL3 models], following:

Dual core:
SL9S5 (Intel Core 2 Extreme X6800)

Quad core:
SL9UM (Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600)

Quad core:
SL9UK (Intel Core 2 Extreme QX6800)

http://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html

Cheers!

Robert.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by kepocuhka 

Hello, Robert!

Problem in that QX6800 have 130W TDP, so we can get unstable thermal system, or greater noise.

I absolutely agree with you, Stanislav.  Even if it booted, ... it's a pretty poor match for a maximum 297-watt system power supply, and a passive radiator CPU cooling assembly.  But, ... you could probably cook a nice pork roast inside the XL* case. The key would be selecting the right size of roast (keeping it small), so that the roast would be completely cooked before the processor was completely cooked! 

Cheers!

Robert.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kepocuhka 

That's nice joke, Robert!

I just found information about how BIOS check CRC, checksums and other. So i check whole BIOS and flash it

I don't have needed CPU, but I guarantee that he will work, because BIOS loads perfectly.





Now we must search raid bios for update, or maybe not.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwaiv 

Congratulations! I'll be doing the test with a Q6600 G0 on Thursday.

John

Good work Stanislav and John,

I have gone through the lists of CPU ID groups, and I have a list of questions I'm preparing for you both. But I'm going to take this back offline for now (at least for my part), and I'll contact you both by 'PM' tomorrow.

Stanislav, your daily AVS Forum private message 'PM' limit should now be lifted. We can verify that, with you and John and I communicating by 'PM" rather than on the regular discussion thread. I'll explain in my message.

Just a quick heads-up to you both before you start swapping and testing processors. As tempting as it will be to speed up your work, I recommend you don't try booting and testing without the passive radiator cooling assembly in place each and every time you swap processors. Even the cooler-running TDP 65w Core 2 Duo processors will reach critical shutdown temperature in as little as 2-seconds without the passive cooling assembly in place.

It's fussy and time-consumming to keep taking it off and putting it on, but trust me it's worth the effort ....and a lot better than cooking a CPU or motherboard socket! 

Also, I'll offer once again one of my most famous (and wierd) alternatives to expensive commercial thermal transfer paste (which you'll go thru quickly during processors testing. Ready for it? 

(Drum roll) ...

40% Zinc Oxide Diaper Rash Ointment !!!!

Yep, it works great (better than many expensive commercial thermal transfer compounds), and it's easier to apply as a thin, even layer than most commercial thermal transfer compounds, easier to wipe off, and applies easily with the edge of a credit card. Just squeeze some out onto a folded paper towel and leave it for a few minutes to draw off the extra oils, and it's ready to go. 

I used to recommend "Budreaux's Butt Paste" brand diaper rash ointment (partly because I find the brand name amusing), but they reduced the percentage of Zinc Oxide, which is what you want for the thermal transfer. You want 40% (or higher). 

Give it a try. One 4-oz. tube is enough for about 3,000 processor changes ( or about 50 diaper changes ).

Cheers!

Robert.

PS. You can also use Hershey's Chocolate Syrup for thermal transfer compound. It doesn't actually do anything to reduce the core temperatures of the CPU ( in fact it may actually INCREASE the temperature ), ...but it gives the whole room a nice Hot Chocolate fragrance ...just before the computer starts smoking and shuts down. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sid the cat 

Samsung 3d TV and XL301


Hi all, Long time no see!

I see things are moving along, I'll be interested in the outcome of the bios research as I gave up on that about 2~3 years ago.

Anyway, heres my question:

have been running the 301 with SSD, E6700, 4Gb ram, ATI 4550 for a while now and all is perfect, or was until we bought a new TV (Samsung ES468000/uxxu)

The TV is fabulous, utterly utterly fabulous, so now I want to play 3d Blurays from the 301 to the TV. I've upgraded the HDMI cable to 1.4 and from what I can gather the TV should now autosense the signal when 3D is present.

It does not do this and we have to play around within the TV settings, to get it to work this leads me towards replacing old faithfull (ATI 4550) with a new card.

Does anyone know of a card with HDMI 1.4 output, or has anyone got this working?

Thanks, Sid.

PS is RAFCOPPA still on here? I sent him the leads from a defunct PSU and he was going to play around modding a generic unit to fit the XL's...

Hello Sid,

Long time no see, you have been missed.  I personally stepped up to the Sapphire HD6670 Low Profile 1GB GDDR5 about 6-7 months ago and it's brilliant. I'm not familiar with that Samsung model, but my Sony LED/LCD has similar specs (and integrated WiFi). This card, with CCC software suite "v.13.1" senses the TV, and the TV senses the Sapphire card (either through the HDMI cable or the WiFi network, not sure?) I am using the "HDMI 1.4" specification cable which came with the Sony TV.

See my post #3571 above, where you will also find links/URLs on that post for more information.

In addition to the 3D support, you will see that the HD6670 has 480 stream processors vs 80 stream processors in your HD4550.

Another card, a little more spendy at about +$20-$25 USD more, but better performance, warrants your consideration as well. Two or three of the contributors to this thread over the past few months have it now running in their VGX-XL* systems. It is the Sapphire HD7750 Low Profile 1GB GDDR5; 512 stream processors vs 480 for the HD6670 vs 80 for the HD4550.

The HD7750 Low profile also has the new 28 nm GPU and HDMI with 3D.

Sapphire HD 7750 1GB GDDR5 Low Profile

http://www.sapphiretech.com/presentation/product/?cid=1&gid=3&sgid=1159&pid=1658&psn=&lid=1&leg=0

While you are on the Sapphire website you will see  "Add to Comparison"  buttons on the individual product pages. If interested you can select that button and do a side-by-side product specs comparison of your current HD4550, and the HD6670, and the HD7750. I found this comparison utility helpful in choosing my new card.

Best regards, and don't be a stranger ( or at least don't be any stranger than you are! )

Cheers! 

Robert.

PS. No, we haven't seen 'RAFCOPPA' in longer than we last saw you. HA!   As an aside, I heard through the grapevine recently that a 18-pin molex motherboard connector is available out there in the aftermarket, but have not yet tracked down a source. If true, it will certainly make it easier to transfer the guts ... excuse me, the "innards" of a modern, quiet 80-plus Bronze m-ATX PSU to the emptied-out enclosure of the Delta 297w unit.

A recent addition to our ol' discussion thread has posted and sent to me some excellent internal photos of the contents of the Delta unit ( we were trying to remotely diagnose if it visable evidence of failure). If you would like me to send off a copy of those photos to you, send me a 'PM' and I'll quickly get his permission and then send you a copy of them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kepocuhka 

Awaiting original BIOS from another XL*

Hello Stanislav and John,

I'll be sending you the original BIOS copies I have collected within the hour, as well as the BIOS ID information sheet I have started. You two can fill out the remainder of the BIOS ID when the information is provided. (The information is in Windows.TXT file format)..

I apologise, but three of my prospective BIOS copy donors have not followed through on their commitment; but I will send you both what I have, and forward the others to you both if they do eventually arrive.

I have also expanded my outreach to others with the same VGX-XL* models, as those who have not followed through.

Cheers!

Robert. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by crevi74 

Hello, all. I haven't been on here for years. I'm working on resurrecting my VGX-XL3 for daily use as a light duty media pc again. No video recording, tuner functionality, cable card, etc needed. Just music, pics, and occasional Internet video. I just want it to be stable. I've bought the license key for Windows 7, and was starting to read through this forum first, but there's just too much info. I'm planning on a fresh install, not an upgrade. Any proprietary Sony devices/drivers to watch out for? Is 64 bit an option? Looks like the hardware will support it, at least on paper. Everything is stock, except I did replace the flakey video card with a Radeon HD 4300/4500 series.

Any pointers much appreciated.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Hello again crevi,

We were pretty sure you had "passed on" (or worse, that your VGX-XL3 had passed-on )

Yes, our VGX-XL* systems all love Windows 7, and most of us have already upgraded (a few have even jumped to windows 8).

And if you will be installing a Windows 7 version with Media Center, you will love the user interface and functionality improvements, over your Vista Home Premium Media Center.  And add the free Media Browser plug-ins and you've got an HTPC was is darned close to Nirvana (well, at least it can see Nirvana from its house!")

A clean installation (for some reason referred to by Microsoft as a Custom installation) is in some regards a little easier (less fussy), ....but you will encounter some hiccups following installation in the hardware device drivers, which for the most part get sorted out by letting Windows Update run with auto updates for a few days after you complete the installation.

As for deciding between x86 (32-bit) or x64 (64-bit) Windows 7 the best recommendation I can make to you is to first run the Microsoft Windows Upgrade Advisor on your system (if you have not already done so). You will get a nifty, thorough and printable report of incompatabilities for hardware and software for both 32-bit and 64-bit installations of Windows 7.

Download page:   http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/downloads/upgrade-advisor

Before proceding with your Windows 7 installation, "F2" boot into the Bios and disable the IEEE-1394 iLink Firewire support. There is a system conflict with a new IEEE-1394 driver which is loaded in Windows 7 (all versions).

If the IEEE-1394 Firewire support is not temporarity disabled in the Bios before beginning installation, during the multiple auto restarts during the Windows 7 installation, the system will freeze at the "VAIO" boot splash screen and you will have to manually intervene and cycle the power button. Windows still installs, but if you can avoid the possibility of any files corruption during your OS installation and avoid the boot freezes, you can avoid possible headaches or corrupted installation glitches..

After you finish your installation, send me a 'PM' and I'll help you to install the correct driver for the IEEE-1394 bus which does not cause the boot freeze, and you'll have your rear and your front I/O iLink Firewire support available, if you want to connect your Disk changer, or external hard drives, etc. 

Also, if you do have a VGP-XL1B Disk Changer, there is a correct procedure for installing it in Windows 7 (Note: you will not reuse any of the software that came on the OEM Sony CD packaged with your Disk Changer; just the drivers which are built-in to Windows 7, the support interface in Media Center and the updates delivered by Windows Update).

You will also want to uninstall the drivers for your Radeon HD 4300/4500 video/graphics card before beginning your Windows 7 installation (just allow the card to use the native/generic video drivers and lower resolution) and then reinstall your Radeon card software suite following the the completion of your Windows 7 installation; either from your OEM software CD, or just go to the AMD site, and find the Catalyst Software Suite current update for your card, download and install it from AMD. 

Downloads support page:   http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/Pages/index.aspx

Your video card manufacturer's website might also have the same Catalyst Coftware Suite update download available.

Here are ssome considerations to add to your 32-bit vs. 64-bit decision:

* 64-bit will allow your system to run 8GB of RAM (maximum), all addressable and "usable." The memory DIMMS selection is important, however. If you go with 64-bit and want to install *gb of RAM (two-pairs of dual-channet 2GB DIMMS = 4x 2GB), you can post your intentions here if you wish and we can give you some pointers of which specs. to avoid, and which will work best in the VGX-XL3.

* 64-bit offers improved system stability.

* 64-bit may be incompatible with some of your owned programs and applications, which you would need to replace.

* 64-bit will disable the functionality of the front panel Blu-ray optical drive eject button . We do not have a patch as yet for this, and inasmuch as we have known about and not fixed the problem in about 5-years, you should assume there isn't going to be a fix and decide if that's a deal killer (you will have to use the eject function in "Computer" with the touchpad, and touchpad buttons or wireless mouse. [Note: it is possible to reroute the wired connection from the front panel eject button and cut and solder them to the eject input points of the optical drive. You would need to consider your own skill set if you decided to tackle that hardwired fix].

       ************************************************************

* 32-bit maximum RAM is 4GB installed (about 3.25GB addressable "usable", and the remainder allocated for background services). This is a Windows imposed limitation. There is a method of bypassing the Windows 32-bit RAM limitation by installing a 36-bit Physical Address Extension (PAE) kernel patch, which will allow you to install the maximum 8GB of RAM which is supported by your Intel 965P chipset, and then select on booting when you wish to run 4GB and when you wish to run 8GB.  I have posted ( a few pages back in this thread ) the information about the PAE kernel patch, and the download link (Note: it is written for and only installs on Windows 7 x86 (32-bit)].

* 32-bit does not guarantee that the Blu-ray optical drive eject button functionality will be restored for your system. I would say about +/- half of the VGX-XL* system owners who post here who have done a complete clean ("custom") installation of Windows 7 32-bit ( rather than an "upgrade" installation ) have been unable to successfully restore functionality by reinstalling the Sony 32-bit software support. 

However, to the best of my knowledge everyone who has done an "upgrade" installation from Vista Home Premium to Windows 7 ( or even have done an "upgrade" installation from the Sony/OEM XP Media Center Edition, to the sony/OEM Vista Home Premium, and then an "upgrade" installation of Windows 7 32-bit, have all retained all of their hardware functuionality including the Blu-ray optical drive eject button functionality)

* 32-bit "upgrade" installation will retain most of your Sony OEM applications, all of your Sony support utilities and will retain your Sony Firmware Extension Parser Device Driver, specific to your VGX-XL3. And you will retain your system ID as a VGX-XL3 when you use Windows Update and the Sony support page for your VGX-XL3 model, including being able to download and successfully install Sony updates delivered through the support page. You will lose these things with a clean ("custom") installation.

If you choose a 32-bit vs a 64-bit installation, a recommendation I would make to you is either clean up your exisitng installation of Windows Vista Home Premium (or backup your personal files and do a complete Factory fresh System Recovery installation from the Recovery partition or from your set of Recovery DVD's if you own a set) and then let Windows Update bring you fully current over the course of a few days of updates. Then do an 'upgrade' installation of Windows 7 over the fresh, fully factory fresh Recovery installation of Windows Home Premium (and retain all of the good aspects of your VGX-XL3 as designed and the support utilities and drivers). You will have no unknown device warnings in Device Manager.

You can also "clone" (image) your existing Hard Drive to another fresh HDD or SSD, using a software application such as Acronis, and then do your Windows 7 upgrade installation on the cloned drive withour affecting a single file on your existing system drive. That will give you the flexibility of changing your decision later, if you decide you want to do something else, because you still have your status quo system drive unchanged; you just need to plug it in.

Last recommendation tonight:  I strongly recommend for all of our VGX-XL* owners that they install a SATA2 (SATA II) Solid State Drive (SSD) for their system OS/boot/programs/applications drive for Windows 7.  The performance improvement is steller, the system OS boots much faster, the system runs cooler, quiter and more reliably, draws less power off the power supply, and you don't even need to mount the 2-12 inch SSD in the hard disk drive rack (leaving all three bays available for storage HDD's, if desired).  If you decide to install a SSD for your Windows 7 system OS drive, let me know and I can give you some pointers, recommended minimum drive capacity ( depending on how you will use it ), and share some bench test results and settings recommendations for optimizing its performance.

Cheers!

Robert.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sid the cat 

Thanks Robert,

FYI the link for Molex connector is herehttp://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0430251800_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml

Also, the tools are readily available on ebay here http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/?_nkw=molex%20pin%20tool&clk_rvr_id=452996995964

Sid.

Thanks Sid. You've always been the best ( and I don't care what those other people say ) 

I have forgotten, did you swap-out / mod a OEM Delta 297-watt PSU yourself?  We have at least two forum members who within the past couple of weeks are posting that they are dealing with possible failed PSU problems. Possible, because neither has had theirs tested yet, as far as I know. So curious to be reminded if you actually replaced your OEM with the innards of a similar sized unit and used the aftermarket acquired 18-pin molex?

Thanks for sending the links. That's a nice addition to the forum resources. We need to figure out how to create a master index and repository for this resources, tips, how-to's and stuff, because it now just gets lost among the other thousands of posts.

Cheers!

Robert.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crevi74 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sid the cat 

Just plug it in, install W7 and enjoy

Thx. Looks like Media Center is part of Win 7? What are the free Media Browser plug-installed mentioned above, and where do you get them?

With an "upgrade" vs "custom" install, do I still need to uninstall the firewire and video card driver as described above?

Sent from my Motorola Photon using Tapatalk 2

Hello crevi,

Yes, Sid is right. I think the only versions of Windows 7 without Media Center are "Starter" and "Home Basic", and I'm not even sure they're available anymore? So Windows 7 Professional (or Home Premium, Enterprise or Ultimate) and you're 'good to go.'

Yes, temporarily disabling the Firewire avoids a problem we all encountered, but it's easy to do and will make the Windows 7 "upgrade" installation completely automatic. I can assist, if you are uncertain about booting to the BIOS ("F2") and turning it off.

If you do that, no intervention on your part will be needed for your Windows 7 "upgrade" installation. 

And yes, when you run the "Windows 7 Upgrade Adviser" you will see it's recommended to uninstall the drivers for your Radeon card before beginning the Windows 7 installation, and reinstalling your video/graphics card drivers following the upgrade. If you no longer have the OEM software and drivers CD for the Radeon card, no problem. because Windows will identify your card and install the basic Windows 7 support drivers for the Radeon HD4300/4500 series card (replacing the Vista drivers which are no longer present) and therefore no conflict with the new drivers installation).  And then when everything is finished you'll download the most current "complete" Catalyst Software Suite update version for your card from the AMD link that I gave you (or the card manufacturers website).

A few minutes of preparation avoids having to deal with and fix any conflicts or unidentified hardware devices following installation of Windows 7, and there's less of that to begin with, following an "Upgrade" installation over the top of your original OS programs, applications and setups. As goes the old adage: "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."

From my personal perspective, based on how you will be using it, the most satisfactory end result for you, is what you have decided, a complete factory recovery from the Recovery Partition (or from your System Recovery DVD's) and a Windows 7 x86 (32-bit) "upgrade" installation over the top of that. It's just a little bit "fussier" than the straightforward clean ("custom") installation, but the end result is much more satisfying, if you're not wanting to mess with stuff after your upgrade to Windows 7 and want continued support for a VAIO VGX-XL3. 

I have done both "Upgrade" and "Custom" (clean), and both 32-bit and 64-bit  installations, and "Upgrade" yields far better end results if you want to still have a VAIO VGX-XL* and all its support, following instaling your new OS. I think you'll be happy with doing it by "upgrade" and you'll be VERY pleased with Windows 7 on your system (you certainly aren't going to entertain thoughts of selling it anytime soon. Feel free to contact me by 'PM' when you are ready to go.

First, here's the link for the free, open source Media Browser project:  http://www.mediabrowser.tv/

Free Media Browser and its also free plug-ins are all post-installation of Windows 7 with Media Center, so don't worry about downloading anything before you're up and going, and Windows Update has had a few days to get your new Windows 7 installation current with drivers updates, and Service Packs. 

I'm sending you a 'PM' with some additional contact info if you want or need any assistance with your Recovery restoration and preparation for the Windows 7 upgrade.

As a reminder, the Recovery process from the hidden Recovery Partition (which holds a complete re-installation copy of the Sony factory setups, operating system and programs/applications for your system)  is accessed by scrolling down to the bottom of your start-up menu:   "Start" > "All programs". Look for the shortcut  "VAIO Recovery" and click it. The option you want is labeled:

"Restore C: Drive.

This option deletes all files on the C: drive and restores the drive back to the original factory condition."

If unclear how to proceed from there, just send me a 'PM' and I'll help you through it. It's really all pretty simple and intuitive, and it's automated so you just watch ... or fix yourself a cocktail and just let it run without intervening. 

Then after a few days of Windows Updates to get the system current, you'll temporarily disable the IEEE-1394 iLink Firewire, as previously noted, and proceed right to the "upgrade" installation of Windows 7 Professional. If I remember correctly the Windows 7 "upgrade" installation will require you to have Vista Home Premium updated to Service Pack 2, through Windows Update, before preceding to install Windows 7. You can reducie the updating process time by downloading a copy of the service packs, or just let them install through Windows Update (which is what Microsoft recommends). 

Cheers!

Robert.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crevi74 

Thx so much, Robert. I'll get started on it this weekend.

One funny thing I noticed in playing with the machine this week is that I get "system" sounds through the HDMI cable connection, but not media sounds (media player songs). Any ideas? Could there be a missing connection or jumper between the sound card and the video card? I can make an optical digital connection to my receiver, but HDMI is so much cleaner and easier.

Sent from my Motorola Photon using Tapatalk 2

Hmm, well the most simple answer is to first verify that the independent volume control bar on the bottom of the Windows Media Player interface is not muted, or set at zero (or set too low to hear it).

You can use the mute and two volume control buttons on the top row, left-hand side of your VAIO wireles keyboard to check if the volume has been muted or turned down (those buttons are associated with Media Center and Windows Media Player, which is the default player in Media Center). It works in tandem with the core system sounds support from your sound device drivers (AMD and Sigmatel, in your case), but Windows Media Player is an independent application, and individually controlled. You can have 100% volume from the XL3 to your monitor through HDMI , and yet have no volume from Media Player. So first check that independent volume control.

If it's a driver glitch, that's not a problem. After the Recovery installation and the Upgrade installations, all of the sound and media drivers get replaced.  Anything which doesn't work right now (or doesn't work properly) on your XL3, becomes factory fresh again with the Recovry installation, and then updated with the Windows 7 "Upgrade" installation.

Cheers!

Robert.

Hi Sid,

Thanks for the clarification.

My Delta PSU is still working, and I'm not planning to do anything with it, but I was entertaining the thought of trying to do a proof-of-concept conversion of a 400-watt m-ATX unit (the innards of which could be transfered into the enclosure of the OEM Delta) by removing the 20-pin molex connector (it's a 20+4 config.) and then matching the proper voltage leads positions, wire-for-wire,  to match the Delta power configuration and reinserting them in one of the new 18-pin molex connectors.

If it worked it would offer an alternative for those with failed Sony/Delta 297w power supplies (which now cost around USD $150 incl. shipping, to replace.

Gosh, those 18-pin molex connectors are only USD $1.20 ea. plus shipping!!!

I looked at the tools on that Ebay.uk webpage. I hate to look like a complete idiot (even though I AM a complete idiot) ...but is the only tool needed (to replace the molex connector) the pin-removal tool ...

...or would I need to also acquire the crimping tool and new pin sets?

Obviously, based upon the level of my knowledge, I have absolutely no business whatsoever attempting such a conversion project ... which of course just makes me want to do it even more! HA.  

I already have the appropriate  new 400-watt '80-plus Bronze' m-ATX ( 20+4) PSU in hand, and the measured innards will fit nicely inside the Delta enclosure. If I can remove the pins from the 20+4 molex and then reinsert them into the proper-voltage pin locations as the Delta 18-pin, it seems that it should be a workable rebuild.

It looks to me like that pin-removal tool just just slides over the pins and compresses the top of the pin enough to extract it from the molex connector insertion hole so that it can be pulled out of the pin hole.

Is that how it works?

And if so can they simply then be pushed back into the replacement molex connector?

Again, I hate to look like a complete idiot here ....but hey! "It is what it is."

Cheers!

Robert.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigoliver 

Hi everyone,

I have a few questions about external hard Drives.

I am looking to increase storage again, what are the limits on external hard drives. Is there a Max size i.e. 2TB per HD? is there a max number of HDs and is there a Max number of total size ie all HDs that I must not exceed?

I currently have a 1TB and another 2TB HDs. I am hoping to add another 3TB Hard drive if possible?

Cheers in advance,

Oliver

Hello Oliver,

I don't know if you already got some answers?

Can you clarify if the only hard drive inside your XL301 currnetly is your System SSD (your C: drive) and no HDD's inside the drive rack? 

If that's correct, is there a reason why you do not want internal storage in your XL301 (your post says you want to add another external dive).

Are those external drives USB 2.0?  eSATA? iLink/Firewire?  (I ask because the max. throughput speeds of those interfaces is a consideration).

Do you network to extenders? Are you running a Windows Home Server or a NAS, or just external HDD enclosures attached to the XL301?

If you are just running individual (non-RAID) HDD's attached to the XL301, and do not want to go to internal storage or a WHS (Home Server) or a NAS, and you will be managing all of your storage through the XL301 including your media file libraries in Media Center/Media Browser, you can go with a storage system like mine and run any size HDD capacity including the new 3TB and 4TB drives and four or more HDD's per box (and you just open the door and add drives of any capacity as you need more storage). 

I installed a $15.00 (USD) PCI-e-SATA/SATA controller card with a port multiplier chip (allows management of multiple individually identified HDD's through a single eSATA port). The controller card populates one of the two slots on the PCI riser.  It provides two (2) eSATA ports on the I/O slot insert and another two SATA ports inside the XL* case for additional internal SSD's. 

To each of those eSATA ports is connected a SansDigital TOWERRAID 4-Drive enclosure with integrated power supply, cooling fan and HDD management hardware.

I bought my enclosures from Newegg.com on sale for about $90 (USD) each (about 60 GBP each). they also have units which hold more drives (up to 8 drives), but I went with the 4-drive model because the dimensions best fit my entertainment center and sitting alongside my XL2 and my XL1B Disk Changers.  Here's a photo and link/URL if you want to read about them: 

http://www.sansdigital.com/towerraid-/index.php

They measure only about 7-1/8" tall x 5-3/8" wide x10" deep. 

I am currently running two of these boxes filled with eight (8) 2TB 5900 rpm 'green drives' connected to the PCI controller. Additioanlly I have three (3) 1.5TB 5900 rpm "green' drives in a RAID5 volume inside my XL2 drive rack, and two SSD's mounted side-by side atop the Blu-ray optical drive (one is the System OS drive attached to SATA 'port 0' the other is a matched unit attached to one of the internal SATA ports on the PCI controller card and is used for System drive images (backups).

Including the Blu-ray optical drive, and an additional matching slot-load DVD-RW optical drive in a small black external enclosure on top of the XL2, I am running and managing fifteen (15) separate drives with my XL2 (which is older, has a much slower processor, and is much less capable than your own XL301). 

So, .... you can do a whole lot with your beautiful ol' XL301 before you encounter her limits, if you plan it out.

The finishes of these SansDigital enclosures is gloss black and very nicely done. They complement and match-up with the black and silver finishes of the XL* components very nicely.

Another nice thing is that the HDD's are hot-swappable.

If you decide to install some internal storage you will have some capacity limitations, but it just requires a different choice of disk management. You can use MBR (master boot record) up to 2TB. Individual Drives or RAID volumes over 2TB need to use GUID partition table. It's very simple, and all done through the "Computer Management > Disk Management" utility in Windows 7.

Let me know if you want any more detail, or have unrelated questions about going a different direction.

Cheers!

Robert.