Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall

From time to time I've seen builds posted where the screen wall looks like a load bearing wall, so last week when I had mine apart for carpet installation I took a couple of pics to document my approach which is minimal and considering I intend to join the 2:35 club at some point easy to modify.

I started with 2 rectangular frames of finger joined pine trim boards. Connected on the top and bottom with a cross member. I doubled up the outside leg with a space between the two boards.

I stood them in place and screwed through the top into the ceiling and bottom to the stage. Added Linacoustic and some leftover eggcrate from my speaker building projects. Also three blocks on the side walls.



Next built 4 frames and covered with black GOM. Added a few dabs of velcro. A little goes a long way because if you use too much it's really hard to pry off a panel. Paint the visible sides of the frames black before attaching GOM.



Then I put up the two sides, the screen and the top and bottom panels, in that order.

The screen is a Stewart with the deluxe frame. It mounts with 4 large head screws. The frame has 4 brackets. Each bracket has a slotted hole that fits over the the head of the screw and when you lower it an inch it's locked in place. If you look close at the first pic you will see 4 white spots on the inner vertical supports. That's the screw heads sticking out and the paint roller didn't make complete contact.

With the GOM panel resting on top it's wedged into place and isn't going anywhere.

Bpape: I'd say the design would hold about a 150 lb frame.

As for the carpet, Yes I'm glad it's finally in. Now I just have to finish the bar get the counter tops, do the backsplash and then it's on to the spa bathroom. However right in the middle of the room the carpet has a flaw and tomorrow an inspector from Masland is coming to document the problem and recommend a remedy.

Thanks. Yes, black, we wanted to duplicate the shape over the top. I think I'll be buying lint rollers by the case. Virtually no reflection from the screen.

36 or 48 inches. Keep in mind that if you do an AT screen that there should be some distance between the front of the screen and the speaker. I think it's in the neighborhood of 10 inches. I haven't seen many speakers deeper than 24 inches. Also they recommend having the speaker well in front of the wall so it adds up.

High quality in-walls would solve your 18 inch limitation.

Without taking it apart again, I think the uprights were 1 1/4 x 3 (or 3 1/2)

Here is another shot of the bottom panel.


The smaller pieces were 1 1/4 x 1 1/2
I stuck a couple of pieces of larger stock on the ends for a little stability

Drywall was fine for me. (two layers)

the two side panels actually have pieces that are not square. Since they sit at an angle I cut all the pieces to fit the appropriate angles. If you look carefully at the pic you might spot it. Sorry don't have a close up.

Crystal blue on the top, Baltic blue bottom, paint on trim and ceiling is Lowes Amercican traditions Drizzling Mist. Looks fine but does light up a bit.

I used finger joint pine from Chile. HD carries a line of exterior trim boards that are pre-primed finger joined pine. The boards are 1 1/4 thick and come in various widths. at my HD they are easy to spot because they stand the 16 ft lengths on end.

After cutting to size I calculated that it runs 3x the $ of stud grade lumber. It comes straight and stays straight. Also stiffer than studs of equal size.

Thanks guys for the compliments.

The angling out was pure cosmetics on my part, It is more noticeable in person than in the Photos. I plan on migrating to 2:35 AT (SMX) in the future so I am not certain that design element will survive.

As for the Marquee over the stage:

the rounded piece was actually a double layer of PVC wood composite which bends pretty easy. The long straight pieces were the finger joined pine. The rest was ripped 2x4's The thing is 2 inches thick. Stuffed with 2 layers of Linacoustic, wrapped in black GOM. It's mounted to the ceiling with 2 screws (through the uprights in the back) and 2 tubes of Lock-tite adhesive (the stuff in the commercial where the guy glues the hammer to the ceiling)

One other little detail, I put a couple of cross pieces of black Gaffers tape (and stapled) across the big sections to keep the linacoustic from sagging the GOM.

here are some construction pics of the details.

details on that Finger joined stuff:



Measure twice cut both sides at once, my template:


Finished frame:




I practiced lifting into place 4 times before I did it for real. I temporally screwed 2 pieces of wood to the side walls to hold the back straight edge. I cut 6 2x4's the exact length to wedge between the floor and the marquee while the glue dried. I wrapped the ends with scrap GOM to protect the GOM on the marquee. I also had a can of Acetone and some clean rags on standby in case I got any glue on areas That I didn't want. And I did, and it cleaned it off. I did have to touch up the paint because it came off too. But the glue on the black GOM came off cleanly.

One of my motivations on bringing the curve out a bit was to match the bottom and to give a bigger black area on the ceiling since I wasn't planning on painting the ceiling black.

If I were to do it again I might build it taller and put trim molding to match. Also do some kind of lighting.

The bottom turned out to be two 5 inch steps. I would make it bigger the next time. It gave the carpet guys fits.

Here is another arch in the back of my room: Yet to be finished back end.







some constuction details





Using the Flex-trac to create a curved soffit. http://www.flexc.com/products.html?t...x4&mode=simple