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Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall

458K views 2K replies 304 participants last post by  holyindian 
#1 · (Edited)
From time to time I've seen builds posted where the screen wall looks like a load bearing wall, so last week when I had mine apart for carpet installation I took a couple of pics to document my approach which is minimal and considering I intend to join the 2:35 club at some point easy to modify.

UPDATE 12/19/2021

I put together a summary of the steps for building the minimalist screen wall here: Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall



UPDATE 10/29/2017

With the PhotoBucket Apocalypse, 2000 of my linked pictures have been redacted by the bean counters at PB who think they actually need to run the company with a positive bottom line. So I'm going to grab a bunch of my minimalist framing pictures and stick them here. You should note that my designs evolve and that depending on the theater may look different one from the other. My goal has always been to keep it simple. Just enough to hold the screen frame and provide enough of a structure to keep the fabric panels surrounding the screen vertical.

Machine Wood Plywood


Basement Room Floor Machine


Wall Floor Basement Beam


more to follow
 

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#5 ·
Is your screen attached via velcro as well?


It is nice to see you finally got carpet... Looks great!
 
#6 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_hinni /forum/post/0


Is your screen attached via velcro as well?


It is nice to see you finally got carpet... Looks great!

The screen is a Stewart with the deluxe frame. It mounts with 4 large head screws. The frame has 4 brackets. Each bracket has a slotted hole that fits over the the head of the screw and when you lower it an inch it's locked in place. If you look close at the first pic you will see 4 white spots on the inner vertical supports. That's the screw heads sticking out and the paint roller didn't make complete contact.


With the GOM panel resting on top it's wedged into place and isn't going anywhere.


Bpape: I'd say the design would hold about a 150 lb frame.


As for the carpet, Yes I'm glad it's finally in. Now I just have to finish the bar get the counter tops, do the backsplash and then it's on to the spa bathroom. However right in the middle of the room the carpet has a flaw and tomorrow an inspector from Masland is coming to document the problem and recommend a remedy.
 
#8 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by chinadog /forum/post/0


Big, carpet looks great. Is that black on the stage?

Bud

Thanks. Yes, black, we wanted to duplicate the shape over the top. I think I'll be buying lint rollers by the case. Virtually no reflection from the screen.
 
#9 ·
It's hard to tell from your pictures: How deep are spaces behind the false walls? How wide an opening should you make for a speaker?


With my ceiling treatment, my false wall can come out about 18". I know that will fit my Paradigm mini-monitors just fine, but is that deep enough to not preclude upgrading my speakers in the future? How deep are good speakers these days? How much space do they need behind them?


How close can the framing of the false wall come to the speakers before you'll start getting acoustic problems? Do you need 2.5' on both sides of the speaker location?
 
#10 ·
LOL, good speakers is a relative term and one of those ask a hundred people get a hundred answers.

I have 24" from surface of faux wall to treated wall. my REVEL M22's are about 12" deep. The C52 center is a bit deeper but not much.


If your speakers are not rear ported you can get away with less room than if they are. All three of my fronts are behind my Smx screen.
 
#11 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by McCall /forum/post/0


LOL, good speakers is a relative term

Yeah, I didn't mean to open up the 'good' speaker can of worms! I'm mostly trying to avoid building a theater that will work with my current speakers but not prevent any reasonable upgrades. To me a reasonable upgrade means
 
#12 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/0


I started with 2 rectangular frames of finger joined pine trim boards. Connected on the top and bottom with a cross member. I doubled up the outside leg with a space between the two boards.

What dimension of boards did you use, and did you use the same boards for your frames that you wrapped the fabric around?


I'm also curious if you needed to make sure these were screwed into a joist on the ceiling, or if just into the drywall was good enough?


I've been admiring your screenwall for almost a year now, it is nice to take a look at the magic behind the fabric. Simple is good.
 
#13 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer /forum/post/0


It's hard to tell from your pictures: How deep are spaces behind the false walls? How wide an opening should you make for a speaker?


With my ceiling treatment, my false wall can come out about 18". I know that will fit my Paradigm mini-monitors just fine, but is that deep enough to not preclude upgrading my speakers in the future? How deep are good speakers these days? How much space do they need behind them?


How close can the framing of the false wall come to the speakers before you'll start getting acoustic problems? Do you need 2.5' on both sides of the speaker location?

My false wall is flush with the front of the "stage" with is 2'-0 1/8" deep.

Im using B&W 604's which are also flush with the front of the false wall/stage.

The yellow lines are the 2" OC 703 Bryan (bpape) designed into the room.

The purple box with red speakers is the an IB that will be in the ceiling/attic.

 
#14 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmeyer /forum/post/0


I guess I'm looking for the answer to this question:


"You won't be limiting yourself much in speaker selection department if you have ___ (fill in the blank) inches of space behind your screen wall. "


Any takers?

36 or 48 inches. Keep in mind that if you do an AT screen that there should be some distance between the front of the screen and the speaker. I think it's in the neighborhood of 10 inches. I haven't seen many speakers deeper than 24 inches. Also they recommend having the speaker well in front of the wall so it adds up.


High quality in-walls would solve your 18 inch limitation.
 
#15 ·
I ended up with about 14 inches due to the limitations of a door to my equipment/concession area. The Ascends are not very deep, maybe 8 inches and port out the back. I've been very happy with the result. You have to do what you what you can within the limitations of the room, obstacles, etc.

http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/ear...pstagedim.html


Bud
 
#16 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_hinni /forum/post/0


What dimension of boards did you use, and did you use the same boards for your frames that you wrapped the fabric around?


I'm also curious if you needed to make sure these were screwed into a joist on the ceiling, or if just into the drywall was good enough?


I've been admiring your screenwall for almost a year now, it is nice to take a look at the magic behind the fabric. Simple is good.

Without taking it apart again, I think the uprights were 1 1/4 x 3 (or 3 1/2)


Here is another shot of the bottom panel.



The smaller pieces were 1 1/4 x 1 1/2

I stuck a couple of pieces of larger stock on the ends for a little stability


Drywall was fine for me. (two layers)


the two side panels actually have pieces that are not square. Since they sit at an angle I cut all the pieces to fit the appropriate angles. If you look carefully at the pic you might spot it. Sorry don't have a close up.
 
#17 ·
Big,


Carpet looks fantastic. Your wall has me once again chanting the "simple is better" mantra.
 
#19 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by ifeliciano /forum/post/0


Big,


Is the fabric above the chair rail GOM Cement Mix ? How does it look with the lights out and PJ on ?


Ivan

Crystal blue on the top, Baltic blue bottom, paint on trim and ceiling is Lowes Amercican traditions Drizzling Mist. Looks fine but does light up a bit.
 
#22 ·
I used finger joint pine from Chile. HD carries a line of exterior trim boards that are pre-primed finger joined pine. The boards are 1 1/4 thick and come in various widths. at my HD they are easy to spot because they stand the 16 ft lengths on end.


After cutting to size I calculated that it runs 3x the $ of stud grade lumber. It comes straight and stays straight. Also stiffer than studs of equal size.
 
#23 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC /forum/post/11390449


I used finger joint pine from Chile. HD carries a line of exterior trim boards that are pre-primed finger joined pine. The boards are 1 1/4 thick and come in various widths. at my HD they are easy to spot because they stand the 16 ft lengths on end.


After cutting to size I calculated that it runs 3x the $ of stud grade lumber. It comes straight and stays straight. Also stiffer than studs of equal size.

DC,


Did you use the pine for the top arch of your stage? I saw another pic you posted elsewhere and it appears you used standard 2x4s. if not, would it work with the pine? If a 2x4, how did you bend the wood? I did not think that type of wood would accomodate such a large curve. Also are the bottom and top stage arches the same size?


Finally, is there any reason why your side panels are angled outward versus being on plane with the screen and center panels?


I plan on unabashedly copying your design. Thanks.
 
#25 ·
Thanks guys for the compliments.


The angling out was pure cosmetics on my part, It is more noticeable in person than in the Photos. I plan on migrating to 2:35 AT (SMX) in the future so I am not certain that design element will survive.


As for the Marquee over the stage:


the rounded piece was actually a double layer of PVC wood composite which bends pretty easy. The long straight pieces were the finger joined pine. The rest was ripped 2x4's The thing is 2 inches thick. Stuffed with 2 layers of Linacoustic, wrapped in black GOM. It's mounted to the ceiling with 2 screws (through the uprights in the back) and 2 tubes of Lock-tite adhesive (the stuff in the commercial where the guy glues the hammer to the ceiling)


One other little detail, I put a couple of cross pieces of black Gaffers tape (and stapled) across the big sections to keep the linacoustic from sagging the GOM.


here are some construction pics of the details.


details on that Finger joined stuff:




Measure twice cut both sides at once, my template:



Finished frame:





I practiced lifting into place 4 times before I did it for real. I temporally screwed 2 pieces of wood to the side walls to hold the back straight edge. I cut 6 2x4's the exact length to wedge between the floor and the marquee while the glue dried. I wrapped the ends with scrap GOM to protect the GOM on the marquee. I also had a can of Acetone and some clean rags on standby in case I got any glue on areas That I didn't want. And I did, and it cleaned it off. I did have to touch up the paint because it came off too. But the glue on the black GOM came off cleanly.



 
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