Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall - Page 2

I refuse to answer that question.......

Shhhhhhhhh! Be very, very quiet ........

Bud

I plead the 5th.

Big, when are you going to get those countertops in, I'm ready to come over for a snack

Hey Big,

LOVE your theater. Do you have pics of your walls before the GOM went on?

thanks,
WS

Thanks for that pic. Sorry should have been more specific. Do you have a pic of the making of the wall frames to hold the GOM? What did you put in the frames?


Also, do you know which Quadrate colour sandman used?

thank you,
WS

I want to make a really simple false wall. I currently have no acoustical treatment at all. I might do this in the future as finances allow. All I have right now is an L-shaped room (the previous owner finished the basement). I don't really want to destroy this basement as it is a really nice party room (that is what he used it for but I don't really have parties in my basement). However, if I need to resell the house, I don't really want to destroy the work he put into it. Ideally I should have bought a house with an unfinished basement, or I should be ready to destroy a lot of the basement. But I don't really want to do that since this work was done only about 4 years ago.

However, I am ready to damage the walls a little bit. I already made some 2x3 inch holes in the wall trying route cables! I still have not done them yet though

I would really like to put a false wall with as little damage as possible. Is it ok if I just get some 2x4 and cut it so that it will stand up really snug between the carpetted concrete floor and the finished ceiling. And then use velcro like BigMouth did to attach framed AT screen fabric as well as black fabric. I was thinking of having four 2x4s standing vertically for the purpose of putting the velcro on and attaching the false wall. I don't want to built a stage.

Any comments!

Big in DC - thanks, you just saved me a lot of time. I think many of us tend to over-think/over-engineer things.

I would be hesitant to friction fit the framing for the false wall. The screen will weigh a fair amount and while you might be able to support it with such a wall, I would be scared that it would tip if anyone touched it or simply over time.

Plus, to get the framing snug enough you probably would scar the wall and ceiling quite a bit. Probably no more than screwing the frame into the walls and ceiling. So since you would have to make a few cosmetic repairs anyway when you took the false wall out, I would recommend screwing the framing so that you can be confident that it is safe and sturdy.

I used 1x3 poplar from HD to frame out my false wall. Easy to do and sturdy.

I too did that for the panels, but Bommai was asking about friction fitting the framing for the false wall

I figured that!! I don't have much carpentry experience. Do I just figure out where the ceiling truss is and screw in the vertical frame to the ceiling truss through the drywall ceiling then. Also, my floor is carpet covered concrete. How do I attach the frame to the floor. Can I screw into the concrete? How hard is that? Will that affect any moisture barrier that may be below the carpet. Should I remove the carpet where I am doing the false wall?

With respect to the framing, can I just do the vertical frames for the false wall? I am planning on making as big a screen as possible. So, with the AT screen plan, my screen would extend all the way to the right edge of the false wall. I will leave a little gap on the left side because it is blocked by a soffit. The total width of the screen itself would be about 116" (133" diagonal ) My LCR and Sub will all be behind the screen. However, since I will need several vertical supports here, I would assume I will have about four vertical supports. Two on either side of the center channel and two on either side of the L and R.

My plan is to get the most affordable AT screen fabric and frame it similar to how I did my first (currently being used) BOC and wood. I am wondering if the consistency of the AT screen fabric is similar to the BOC from Joanne fabric. Slightly rubbery so that I can wrap and staple.

Should I go with SeymourAV or Dazian for AT fabric. SeymourAV seems twice as expensive. I have the Epson 1080UB projector. Hopefully it can handle the bigger screen size and still be bright enough. I am currently displaying it as 103" wide screen (not 116") due to speakers blocking the picture. With the false wall, I can put the speakers behind.

Thanks all for your help. Anyone in the Kansas City area that can help me out

While the Phifer material from Seymour may twice as much as the Dazian, it is still a reasonable price for what it is. Also cheaper than what SMX material which was originally based on the Phifer material, would have been able to be had for when the material alone was being sold. Not sure of AT properties of Dazian and if they have been officially tested, but the Phifer product has been tested and proven. Also with the Phifer being a vynil covered product it cleans easily. With Dazian I had read before that someone needed to replace because it acted like a filter and basically got dirty over time with no easy way to clean. Good luck.

this is truly an amazing room..

im gread this crazy light bulb flickering in my head.....

This is GREAT! I am going to do this today! I have a couple questions, you said you started with 2 rectangular frames? I see only 4 boards, two inner and two outer? Then you say connected with a crossmember, like a "T" on the top and bottom, and if so was it horizontal with the screen wall? Lastly you said you put a space between the two outer boards, what was that for?

I am going to use 2x2's and I am going to do 4 in the middle for the screen. 2x4's on the ends so I have room to connect the panels. I will take pictures as well so others may be able to learn from it as well.

Depending on how you will configure the panels, I also would consider putting boards along the side walls to give the side panelssomething to mount against.

I had one panel running the length of my screen above and below the screen and then one panel running the heigth of the false wall on each side of the screen. I ran a board along the ceiling, along the floor, and on each side wall. That made it easier to friction fit all the panels, both in terms of snug fit and in keeping the side panels on plane. The first time I put it all together I did not have the side boards and the side panels seemed too delicately fit -- now, I do have two little kids so I was concerned about someone pushing on it and the panel pushing through the false wall. With the side board that is not a problem.

And thanks to BMinDC for the inspiration and guidance.

I probably looked at this thread a 100 times before building my wall and never noticed that detail.

My screen wall is very simple. It's basically a long GOM wrapped panel on the bottom that is velcro'd to 4 'boxes' framed out of 2x4's. One box on each side and two towards the middle to form the table on which the center channel sits.

Building the GOM frame for the lower part of the screen wall.


The SMX screen's mounting bracket (an 8' piece of aluminum that acts kind of like a french cleat) was screwed to the lower 2X4 on the ceiling.


With just the GOM panel and speakers in place. The bottom of the screen just leans slightly against the top of the GOM panel. You can kind of make out the tops of the 2x4 boxes


With the screen in place:

Here is my attempt:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...tml#post125077

Sorry for bringing up this old thread. I'm thinking of switching to a false wall build like this and had a couple questions. How far away should the false wall be from the back wall - like 2.5 feet or so? And I should wrap the entire backwall in a linecoustic type material? And finally on a SMX type screen, how far back should the speakers be from the screen - like 10" if they are front ported?

Does a less "structural" screen wall have any problems with vibration which might impact either screen or sound (rattles?)

Thanks for the info. Do you notice any video quality loss/issues with the weave/perf screen? I'm thinking of going to a 137" SMX Proline with a JVC RS10 - will it be bright enough to compensate for the "holes" in the screen?