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Minimalist Approach to Screen Wall - Page 4

post #91 of 280
5/3/11 at 10:49am
awesome pic, thanks. Did you do the insulation stuffing and fabric wrapping and stapling before you mounted it?
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post #92 of 280
5/3/11 at 11:17am
Thread Starter 
Yes, all the staples are hidden on the top.
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post #93 of 280
5/4/11 at 1:13pm
Big,

My false wall will be built with in next 2 days. The framers are here framing up the basement. I did talk to the contractor about building a minimal false wall and he was fine with it. I told him to use the type of wood you used in your latest wall and he told me that he will use Timber strands. It is some type of laminated wood and he assured me that it will not move.

I will not have detachable panels so I will build a frame at the top and bottom.

What kind of black paint will you put on the false wall?

I have tall speakers so they will sit on the concrete floor. Should I be concerned that the frame in the lower section of the false wall will cause sound issues? I will have GOM but I am not sure if wooden frame is going to be a problem.

Do you have any suggestion for wrapping GOM around the false wall. One side will be open after the false wall goes up so it should be easy to wrap it with GOM and staple it.
The other side of the false wall touches the studs which are next to the exterior wall.
I am not sure how I will wrap GOM and staple it on this side.

Thanks
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post #94 of 280
5/4/11 at 5:15pm
Thread Starter 
There should not be any wood members in front of a speaker. My picture may be misleading.

I staple all the fabric on the back of the fabric frames which rest in front of the false wall framing. If you elect to do it differently you are on your own, put you can use furring and attach the fabric to the furring strip and then wrap the fabric to the backside and attach the furring to the false wall, then mount matching furring on the opposite side so that the depth is even. This technique is documented in ChinaDog's linked photo album in his thread.

You also mention the false wall framing being next to a stud this doesn't sound right as the false wall should be framed in after the room is drywalled.

As for paint get Behr flat tinted to Mouse Ears.
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post #95 of 280
5/11/11 at 8:09am
I'm going to be building my wall/frames this weekend, and I'm tyring to keep it as simple as possible. For the GOM frames, do you think a Simpson Mending Plate and some glue in the butt joint would suffice? Google "Simpson MP14" for a look at what I'm talking about. People have used them for years when making wooden window screen frames, and since these aren't weight bearing at all, I figured they would be an easy way to attach things... So basically, glue and clamp, and then hammer in one of those plates and be done with it. Maybe I'll even skip the glue, and just put the frame in the table vice and hammer the plate on. Just an idea.
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post #96 of 280
5/11/11 at 5:12pm
Thread Starter 
Should work, The panels I'm making this weekend will be screws and a little glue. The wood strips I'm using will be 1 1/4 x 1 5/8
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post #97 of 280
5/11/11 at 5:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADDUpstate View Post

I'm going to be building my wall/frames this weekend, and I'm tyring to keep it as simple as possible. For the GOM frames, do you think a Simpson Mending Plate and some glue in the butt joint would suffice? Google "Simpson MP14" for a look at what I'm talking about. People have used them for years when making wooden window screen frames, and since these aren't weight bearing at all, I figured they would be an easy way to attach things... So basically, glue and clamp, and then hammer in one of those plates and be done with it. Maybe I'll even skip the glue, and just put the frame in the table vice and hammer the plate on. Just an idea.

The only concern (maybe aggravation moreso) I would have using those plates would be keeping the pieces square while you attach it. Could always make a jig I guess. I just built my screen filler frames and used a cheap Kreg jig. As long as you cut the ends square on your miter saw, it'll square up quite nicely when screwing together. Two screws per joint and it's not going anywhere.
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post #98 of 280
5/11/11 at 5:48pm
Since my ceiling height at that area is 100", I think I'm going to use 1x4x16' FJP cut down to 99" and then ripped in half. I tried to map out using 8' 1x2s, but I didn't want to have to build up the end plates on the top and bottom. HD and 84 Lumber don't have anything but 8' 1x2 FJP, but 84 told me that would be willing to rip down the 16' 1x4 for me, where HD or Lowes won't, and I sold my table saw last year before we moved.
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post #99 of 280
5/11/11 at 5:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fotto View Post

The only concern (maybe aggravation moreso) I would have using those plates would be keeping the pieces square while you attach it. Could always make a jig I guess. I just built my screen filler frames and used a cheap Kreg jig. As long as you cut the ends square on your miter saw, it'll square up quite nicely when screwing together. Two screws per joint and it's not going anywhere.


How are you screwing it? Pocket screws? If so, that's too much trouble for me on this job. Or are you just screwing it through the ends?

I can make a jig pretty quickly, and that's a good idea. Thanks.

I was actually just considering laying it all out and clamping it with some glue. While it's clamped, I'd hammer the plates in. But I'm even second guessing the glue at this point. I've got wiring to do, to move an outlet to the front wall to plug in the subs in the front, and on the same circuit. That, in turn, has me now ripping down some trim columns for the wiring, etc. This simple wall project has me getting into more time than I wanted, which isn't entirely true, since we all do this to ourselves...
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post #100 of 280
5/11/11 at 6:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ADDUpstate View Post

How are you screwing it? Pocket screws? If so, that's too much trouble for me on this job. Or are you just screwing it through the ends?

Yep, pocket holes (just posted pics in my thread). Didn't take that long in my opinion. but YMMV.
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post #101 of 280
5/12/11 at 12:10pm
The trick to putting those plates on, and keeping them square and tight is to put the plate on the end of one board at a time, and then slide the opposing board under, and slightly push in the tines to grab, then whack it down with a hammer over a 2x4.

Those tines are really sharp, so they grab ahold pretty easily without driving it home completely.

I'll try it that way and with a clamp and if anyone's interested, I'll post up my results.
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post #102 of 280
5/15/11 at 4:12pm
Got my "goal post" and wall braces up and painted today. Only took a couple of hours from raw to done. Spent the day yesterday rerouting the sub outlet from the back to the front of the room with metal surface track. It probably would have been easier to take down the drywall and re-rock it, than use that stuff. Not a fan, but it's done. Also installed 4 Aura Pro Bass Shakers. Pretty fun, especially running them with just the rear four speakers, since the subs and LCR are out for the work. Now just need to find time this week to put together the GOM frames... and enjoy.
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post #103 of 280
5/16/11 at 9:29am
Thread Starter 
Just to move some pictures over here to document the panel building for my most recent minimalist screen wall.

In preparation I ripped and painted the wood for the frames. The skinny pieces were 1 1/4 x 1 5/8 to be mounted with the longest side pointed out. When placed next to the screen which had the 1 1/4 pointed out it would result in a slight shadow box framing effect.

I used a gang painting method for the first coat. Just lined them up and ran some mouse ears flat black on with a foam roller. Waited an hour then rotated for the next side, repeat.



At Jesto's I decided to add mid-span support as a backer for the top fabric panel and to add additional stability to the cross bar.



Then measured each panel, cut the wood and screwed the frames together with 3 1/2 inch deck screws in pre-drilled pilot holes. No Glue



Don't ask why one piece of wood was white. There is a story about cutting a couple pieces a little short and having to make a another run to HD.

Anyway here are the top and bottom panels getting the final coat of flat black.



Notice I used 1 1/4 x 3 1/2 pieces for the ends to give some stability against racking. Just mounted them flush with the front.

One of the sides




Then stapled on Hancock Fabrics black micro velvet and positioned the panels around the screen. All friction fit. Hard to take a picture of the final wall. I used scraps of 1/2 inch thick MDF as a proxy for the carpet yet to be installed.

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post #104 of 280
6/8/11 at 9:53am
Thread Starter 
I had some PMs about the wood I used and where to find it at HD.

Here is the display:



I used 5 of these:



and two of these:



To build the screen wall minimal frame (goal posts), the screen frame for the SMX fabric, and the frames for the fabric panels. $176.
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post #105 of 280
6/14/11 at 6:14pm
Ok, I want to do this in my basement, but I am nowhere near as technically and mechanically savvy as the posters here (I understand about half the posts). I am attaching pictures of my set-up. I am really trying to keep it as simple as possible. These are the first upgrades I will have done to my theater in 5 years since I built it. I am planning on the minimalist approach as per BM in DC. Will black out the wall behind it. I am planning on using jet black speaker cloth from Simply Speakers, as they have assured me no light with get through unless there is a source from behind and they are much cheaper than GOM. I will hire someone to build it out, as I don't have the tools or skill necessary. I was planning on putting the fabric in myself. However, I could not do the panels myself. Is there a simpler way to accomplish that or should I have my carpenter make them? Seems like it would be labor intensive and expensive. Anybody done a simpler method themselves?
LL
LL
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post #106 of 280
6/14/11 at 6:22pm
How are you going to accomodate the soffit and door swing? You could build the wall to the door jam, and then notch it around the soffit, but have you done any mock ups in photoshop or paint to see if that is how you want it to look?

You have two good photos there to electronically manipulate to figure out how you want it done.

There really is no simpler way than what Big has laid out. I just did it a few weeks ago. Yours will need to be a bit more complex due to the door jam. You will need an extra panel at the very least as a return from the screen wall to the wall by the door.
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post #107 of 280
6/14/11 at 6:42pm
I was planning on incorporating the soffit and building the wall up to the door jam (tight, I know, but I think it will fit). As far as how it will look, I would assume it would look pretty good, better than I now have. Everything now is so light (I am also using it as a family room for my kids with a separate TV for gaming) that I would think it would have to be an improvement. I am using an ae900u with a HCCV screen from Dalite with their cinema contour frame, and I think it's fine. I am assuming that by creating a black front wall, if will help with perceived brightness and contrast. I am planning on shadowboxing the frame slightly, around 10-12 inches back. My big concern is the panels. Again, I am not particularly handy, but that really looks tedious and easy to make a mistake on (if a mistake can be made, I'll make it).
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post #108 of 280
6/30/11 at 10:09pm
Yes, I'm looking at doing this, too, and my main question is about how to go about attaching AT fabric afterwards. Are you building your own DIY fixed frame and hanging it or simply running the AT fabric around the inner posts or something different that I'm not catching? I'm trying to visualize that step in the process.
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post #109 of 280
7/1/11 at 4:49am
Thread Starter 
Elvikingo. There are three parts to my design of an AT false wall

First there is some basic framing. This is positioned strategically to hold all the other parts, It doesn't need to be extensive and kind be quite minimal. Some one nicknamed my design the goalpost design.

Next is the actual screen. You can buy a SMX or SeymourAV screen or build your own. In the "Bethesda build" thread we made our own. Basically a simple wood frame wrapped in screen fabric with the fabric stapled in place.

The screen frame gets hung on the supports with Zbar French cleats.

The last part is to fill in the remaining wall areas with a black fabric which is again wrapped around separate wood frames and positioned above, below and to the sides of the screen. If you can picture in your mind an artist's canvas which is wrapped with canvas you have the basic idea of building a screen wall. You just need 5 precisely measured frames around which you stretch the screen fabric and black fabric. Then all you need is something to hold the 5 frames in position.
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post #110 of 280
7/1/11 at 5:38am
Thanks for your tips-- like the others, I feel I can and I will do this. How are you attaching your black-covered panels? It sounds like you are sliding them in for easy removal without screws or glue-- is that correct?
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post #111 of 280
7/1/11 at 9:44am
Thread Starter 
Yes they are basically friction fit and stay in place. The top sits on the top edge of the screen frame. The sides and bottom sit on the carpeted stage. I originally thought I might need Velcro but it turned out that they stay in place just fine.
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post #112 of 280
7/1/11 at 12:39pm
Big,

I will be building false wall and panels soon.
You have mentioned you used FJP from Home Depot.
You have given a lot of details about the construction of the frames and panels but I want to make sure I am not missing anything.

Did you use the same type of wood for both panels and frame of the wall?

You made the following comment
"In preparation I ripped and painted the wood for the frames. The skinny pieces were 1 1/4 x 1 5/8 to be mounted with the longest side pointed out. When placed next to the screen which had the 1 1/4 pointed out it would result in a slight shadow box framing effect."

Can you explain slight shadow box framing effect means?

Thanks
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post #113 of 280
7/1/11 at 1:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

The screen frame gets hung on the supports with Zbar French cleats.

I'm going to have to go back and look at pictures again, I was thinking the screen frame was also friction fitted.
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post #114 of 280
7/1/11 at 4:38pm
Thread Starter 
Nope, the SMX screen in my theater came with a very long zbar. The screen I made for Jesto in the Bethesda Build used three shorter zbars from either HD or Lowe's can't remember which. I didn't like the price I paid.

Three 18 inch z bar cleats:

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post #115 of 280
8/4/11 at 11:26am
How are you attaching the top and bottom of the frame to the ceiling/floor? Are you using the same 3.5 inch deck screws?
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post #116 of 280
8/4/11 at 11:31am
Thread Starter 
anything 2 1/2 or over.
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post #117 of 280
8/4/11 at 11:59am
Hey Big, if a person did this method and the ceiling is DD GG, what is going to keep holding the deck screw? It doesn't seem like there would be much to bite into and that it would just strip out and fall.
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post #118 of 280
8/4/11 at 12:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nebrunner View Post

Hey Big, if a person did this method and the ceiling is DD GG, what is going to keep holding the deck screw? It doesn't seem like there would be much to bite into and that it would just strip out and fall.


When I built the uprights, they were pretty tight and I had to hammer them plumb. I did install mine over a carpeted floor, so I had some spring action of the carpet to help wedge them in. I probably didn't even need screws on top and bottom except to keep the uprights plumb if they were bumped.

Quick tip... when you put the uprights in place, start them back to front. That way, if you scrape the ceiling it won't be as noticeable, as it will be behind the fabric wall. Ask me how I know.
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post #119 of 280
8/4/11 at 1:07pm
I'm putting in my uprights in the next few days. Any tips on getting the posts on each tower flush if I don't have a real workbench like you do, Big? Do pocket screws? Make some quick jig myself to ensure a 90 degree angle?
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post #120 of 280
8/4/11 at 1:38pm
Thread Starter 
My uprights have been screwed to double layer of drywall for 6+ years, no stripping. As mentioned there really isn't any tension on the screws it is just keeping the upright from tipping (sliding).

Elvi, I don't see any advantage to pocket screws in fact I think that weakens the design. Just drill pilot holes and assemble the thing on the floor. Use scraps of wood if necessary to help things in place.
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