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***Official SmX Theater Solutions Screen Thread - Page 33

post #961 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmX View Post


If you can make a window that is perfectly squared and to the exact size of the outside dimensions of the ProCurv, you can drill holes and screws through the top and bottom of the window, into the frame of the ProCurv. This will put unseen holes in the ProCurv frame but is another option.



Regards,
Ruben

Now I like that option - So I will make a 2x8 top and 2x8 bottom, since the width of the ProCurve is a little less than that. Then drill into the frame.

A lot simpler.. I just didn't think I could or should do that... I should be able to get the "window" pretty square...

Thanks Ruben!

Can't wait to get the ProCurv in..I'll post pictures.
post #962 of 1209
Ruben,

Is it true, I should go with the 2.40:1 versus the 2.35:1? I believe that is what we discussed back along. I'm going with the ProCurv and will stretch the JVC RS25 until the Ananmorphic Lens gets installed in Phase 2 later this year.
post #963 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by marklabelle870 View Post

Ruben,

Is it true, I should go with the 2.40:1 versus the 2.35:1? I believe that is what we discussed back along. I'm going with the ProCurv and will stretch the JVC RS25 until the Ananmorphic Lens gets installed in Phase 2 later this year.

Hi Mark,

The recommended fixed screen aspect ratio for anamorphic scope is 2.37:1 when an automated masking screen is not being used. It is a nice compromise in between 2.35:1 and 2.39:1 and is what most of the anamorphic lens manufacturers recommend for fixed screens.

Regards,
Ruben
post #964 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by marklabelle870 View Post

Now I like that option - So I will make a 2x8 top and 2x8 bottom, since the width of the ProCurve is a little less than that. Then drill into the frame.

A lot simpler.. I just didn't think I could or should do that... I should be able to get the "window" pretty square...

Thanks Ruben!

Can't wait to get the ProCurv in..I'll post pictures.

Another option is that we can also tap 1/4-20 holes in the top and bottom of the frame so you can screw right into it.

Ruben
post #965 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmX View Post

Another option is that we can also tap 1/4-20 holes in the top and bottom of the frame so you can screw right into it.

Ruben

Ruben,

So on this side profile drawing, where would the holes be? Since I don't have much headroom left, I would have to drill UP into the ceiling. I don't have room to put a "top" plate for the window.

post #966 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by marklabelle870 View Post

Ruben,

So on this side profile drawing, where would the holes be? Since I don't have much headroom left, I would have to drill UP into the ceiling. I don't have room to put a "top" plate for the window.

The holes would go on the top flat 1.77" side into the foam filled section.

Regards,
Ruben
post #967 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmX View Post

The holes would go on the top flat 1.77" side into the foam filled section.

Regards,
Ruben

Based on that, I imagine I couldn't drill "up" from the frame to a top plate or ceiling. I would have to drill "down" into the frame. That's not possible since don't have the room above. Back to the drawing board..
post #968 of 1209
I did a search within this thread and couldn't find a copy or link to the ProCurve mounting and build instructions. Sent a PM to Ruben, but if anyone has a digital copy and could email me at ronboster@hotmail.com. I've placed my order and wanted to get a head start on understanding the mounting process etc.

It would be appreciated!!

Thanks
Ron
post #969 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by rboster View Post

I did a search within this thread and couldn't find a copy or link to the ProCurve mounting and build instructions. Sent a PM to Ruben, but if anyone has a digital copy and could email me at ronboster@hotmail.com. I've placed my order and wanted to get a head start on understanding the mounting process etc.

It would be appreciated!!

Thanks
Ron

Hi Ron,

I just sent you an email with the link. The assembly manual is on our website under Specs/Support.

Regards,
Ruben
post #970 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by marklabelle870 View Post

Based on that, I imagine I couldn't drill "up" from the frame to a top plate or ceiling. I would have to drill "down" into the frame. That's not possible since don't have the room above. Back to the drawing board..

Hi Mark,

Send me a drawing (if possible) of your stage area and screen-wall and I will provide a solution.

Regards,
Ruben
post #971 of 1209
Mark you could probably mount the top and bottom 2x8 plate on the screen while it is still laying on the floor. This would allow you to 'drill down' into the frame. Then mount the plates(with screen) on your partially built false screen wall and toe nail the boards in place.
post #972 of 1209
Sorry to ask a simple question, just couldnt find it anywhere in the thread (quick look that I had), how much space should I leave from the speaker face to the back of the screen?
post #973 of 1209
Are SMX Cinemascope screens 2.40:1 or 2.35:1? I think the answer is 2.35 even for the ProCurv. Shouldn't a curved screen be true 2.4?
post #974 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ Jackals View Post

Are SMX Cinemascope screens 2.40:1 or 2.35:1? I think the answer is 2.35 even for the ProCurv. Shouldn't a curved screen be true 2.4?

Hi NJ Jackals,

All of our fixed screens are available in any aspect ratio. The standard for using anamorphic is 2.37:1. So if you are considering an anamorphic lens and a curved screen I would recommend 2.37:1.

Regards,
Ruben
post #975 of 1209
Perfect. Thanks, Ruben.
post #976 of 1209
Hey Ruben, do you guys just sell the screen material. To be honest i cant afford an entire fixed screen, but may be able to purchse some materials and weld myself an aluminum screen. My neighbor works at a place that does custom aluminum work.

Thanks
post #977 of 1209
Any owners out there have any tips on getting the solid material tight within the frame? My screen will be arriving tomorrow. I didn't know if there were any tips (outside of the manual) from experienced owners on mounting the material to the frame? Or is it as simple as follow the manual to the "T"? I've been admiring Ruben products from afar...excited about finally being an owner.
post #978 of 1209
I'm sure my experience with my new SMX screen is similar to many of you out there. I've owned a number of screens over the last nine years. Several from the secondary market (Da-lite and Stewart) and a couple of new screens (Carada and Prismasonic), but SMX certainly has the best attributes of all the screens I've used...in some areas certainly topping them all.

As others have stated, the screen arrives in as secure of packaging as any screen I've ever seen (comparable to any electronics hardware). Can damage still occur...yes. But, they've taken as many precautions as possible. What the packaging conveys is a sense that SMX respects the product and wants the product to perform at it's max level (no crushed velvet framing etc).

Once I unboxed the frame and read through the directions, I noticed a very detailed level of knowledge and experience was coming through with the step by step instructions. There isn't a need to interpret or find a work around to accomplish the final task.

But, (there are always at least one "but")...installing the screen material does take patience, sweat (I sweat easily ) and steady hand. As I stated earlier, I've worked with a number of screens. From the easiest to assemble and hang, like Carada, to the most difficult like Prismasonic.

As I've stated in my other review of the Prismasonic, the biggest plus (being able to switch out the screen material to any raw material at any time)...the flip side minus is the difficulty in attaching the material to the frame without the proper tension. My long worded "set-up" is to explain that SMX's material installation is not the snap in place, everything is tight and hang. The material takes time, effort and a steady hand to get the proper tension without wrinkles or waves. It took some time to get it right.

One of the issues was the pre-channel clips slipping out and having to go back and re-do several points on the frame. Once the material was in place...it looked good. The plus side to this system vs a snap in place... like the Prismasonic, you can use any raw material in the SMX screen's frame....HUGE benefit in my opinion, as one changes projectors, one can change material without buying a new screen frame too.

Once I put the screen together, I entered the point at which my wife fears......HANGING THE SCREEN. If she was a horror writer like Steven King, she'd have written an entire series of scary novels based just her distaste and fear of helping me hang our screens. Since my son is not old enough and I don't have any of those (good guy neighbors), she is recruited to help me each and every time.

As others have stated, SMX provides two bars with "hooks/ledges" at the top and bottom that fit into the frame's channels. The bars are mounted on the wall. Studs are needed to handle the weight of the frame and peace of mind. The wall mounting of the bars allows some flexibility since they can be mounted wide range of distances apart. The closer together the frame will stick out from the wall. The farther apart the bars are the closer to the wall the frame will be. I found it really easy to mount the bars.

Now we get to the dreaded hanging of the frame (my wife's fears, not mine). It was 10:15 pm and she was sound a sleep. She agreed to help me...so wakey, wakey. Half asleep and somewhat grumpy (understandable), she picked up one end and I hoisted the frame up with the removable support bar that is located in the middle of the frame (used for this purpose and to keep the velvet frame from crushing during the build process). The great thing about the center bar is it allows one to mount the frame to the wall mounts much easier. When mounting from the sides, you are jockying back and forth to make sure you hit the mark. With a center support bar to hoist the screen onto the mounts, you can put a step ladder in the middle and easily guide the frame in place. It's definitely a two person job. Luckily, it took seconds to mount to the wall. My wife went back to bed and I admired my new screen.

The pluses of SMX screens:

1) The black hole velvet surrounds the frame. This is the BEST absorption material I have ever seen. What stood out to me was the sharp lines that were created by not seeing the image spilling onto the frame. Zero noticeable light spill, which creates completely clean lines. The second benefit to no noticeable light spill is the floating effect the image has on the wall.

2) The screen material is outstanding. I've purchased the solid matte white. I assume that it has some gain? 1.1ish?? Two things I noticed right away was the details that were lost to some degree in the shadows and the extra "pop" the image had on the SMX. I know that Stewart sells the concept of HD1080P type material....meaning the higher level of resolution of the projectors will benefit from their G3 versions of their material. I don't know how true that is, but I respect Stewart and their products. What I am seeing on the SMX material is what I would expect when using the new G3 Stewart material...a more revealing image/detail.

3) The allure of the curved frame stood out to me. The difference between the Prismasonic mounting and the SMX is the ability to have the screen mounted farther from the wall. The Prismasonic mounts close to the wall. As stated, the SMX can be mounted farther from the wall. I think the mounting farther from the wall accentuates the curvature, which to me is a plus. Some feel the curvature is more immersive, I would agree.

All in all, I couldn't be happier with the SMX screen. The level of love, pride and thought put into the SMX products comes through when dealing with the company and specifically Ruben. Well done!

Ron

PS: We had a parents church group over for drinks Sunday night and one consistent comment was the screen. I thought the pastor's wife was going to rip it off the wall and take it home with her.
post #979 of 1209
One extra...

Since I had some screen downtime, I repainted my screen wall. There is a thread on a newly discovered paint product for low light reflection/light saturation. It's perfect compliment to the SMX deep hole frame material.

Here's a discussion thread on the paint in the construction forum

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1218000
post #980 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmX View Post

Hi Anthony,

You would need to mount the screen surface to the frame first with the existing attachment method we offer. We are introducing a new attachment method in the near future that will allow you to do what you are asking and will make assembly much easier than it is now.

Regards
Ruben

Hi Ruben. It's been about a month since this post. Any news on the new attachment method?
post #981 of 1209
Good write-up Ron thx for the review. What curvature did you purchase?
post #982 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by davey_fl View Post

Good write-up Ron thx for the review. What curvature did you purchase?

Thanks for the kind words. The radius is 40.

I know that I am preaching to the choir, but can't say enough nice things about the SMX product and company.
post #983 of 1209
Ron-

Could you share the other equipment you are using with the screen? Projector, lens, etc. do you remove the lens for 16:9 content? What is your seating distance and screen size? Any candid comments after using the screen for almost a week? Comments on ease of use for the masking panels?
post #984 of 1209
Of course...

My projector is the DLP by Planar 8150. The lens is the panamorph 480 lens with a manual slide. The screen material is the SMX matte white. The screen ratio is 2.35:1, size is 110" wide and a radius of 40.

I have two rows of seating, the first is 10 ft from the screen and the second is approx 15 ft. My primary (sweet spot) is near center on the second row.

I do use the masking panels on the 16x9 material. The channels for the panels are located on the lower end of the frame. You first insert the panels on the top end and slide the panel into the lower end's channel. This guides the panel into place. I was nervous the first couple of times inserting the masking for fear of damaging or putting "marks" on the screen material. I have sense become comfortable with the process. As many already know the use of masking makes a noticable difference with preceived contrast etc of the image. I also appreciate the clean look of the panels in place with the screen. The panel product isn't particulary "fancey or complex"...but the overall product is effective and serves the purpose. The channel system is simple, but clever way to insert the system into an SMX frame.

My overall impression of the screen and image has not changed. I am delighted with the result of the screen, material and workmanship of the product.
post #985 of 1209
Thanks Ron. I'm pretty sold on it at this point. Curious whether you leave the lens in place for 16:9 or if you remove it. If you remove it, is there any noticeable barreling? I'm going to be using the same lens with an Epson 9500UB. Screen choice at the moment would be 130" wide. Thanks for taking the time to share your feedback.
post #986 of 1209
I do notice a very, very slight barreling when I move the lens out of the path. Once the black hole absorption panels are in place...you'll get a completely straight lined image...the material absorbs any and all light (and image).
post #987 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by rboster View Post

I do notice a very, very slight barreling when I move the lens out of the path. Once the black hole absorption panels are in place...you'll get a completely straight lined image...the material absorbs any and all light (and image).


OK, so that means you slightly over scan the image and the distortion is unnoticeable?
post #988 of 1209
I have a question for you SMX AT screen owners out there.

Is there a sweet spot in regards to size that limits moire? I have room on my wall for a 110" diag AT screen (approx 10.5" viewing distance for first row). I recently saw a 103" in action (non-SMX / non-AT) and thought the size was nice. Was wondering if there is any trade off between the 110" and 103" other than the obvious.

Thanks.
post #989 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lazer Bison View Post

I have a question for you SMX AT screen owners out there.

Is there a sweet spot in regards to size that limits moire? I have room on my wall for a 110" diag AT screen (approx 10.5" viewing distance for first row). I recently saw a 103" in action (non-SMX / non-AT) and thought the size was nice. Was wondering if there is any trade off between the 110" and 103" other than the obvious.

Thanks.

Even with the old material moire is a non-issue. I have a 10' wide screen and there's no moire at any viewing distance. Per instructions I installed the screen material at 15 degrees from level and that seemed to take care of the problem.
post #990 of 1209
Hi guys,

I have a question for Ruben or anyone else that can answer to help me understand this... I plan on purchasing an SmX screen once my second theater build gets going, but am trying to understand this panamorphic aspect ratio thing... The SmX website identifies 1.78:1 and 2.35:1 screens and this thread mentions 2.37:1 and 2.40:1, which confuses me a bit... So please pardon the ignorant question:

Using a 16:9 or 1.78:1 projector, an image for a movie recorded in 2.40:1 aspect ratio is emitted the width of 1.78:1 ratio screen with black bars on top and bottom... correct? To create a CIH "Cinemascope" effect, that image is first stretched vertically to the height of the 1.78:1 ratio screen and then goes through a 1.33:1 anamorphic lens that stretches the width of the picture by 33%... correct?

So, if you do the math, if an image is projected on a 16:9 projector, and then stretch the width of that image through a 1.33 lens (1.78 x 1.33), then that is a final ratio of 2.36444:1 projected regardless of the format the movie is recorded in... The vertical stretch will fill the recorded aspect ratio to the full 16:9 height and then that full 16:9 image will be stretched horizontally by 33%... correct?

So how can you possibly have an aspect ratio different than 2.36444:1 (I guess they round it to 2.37:1)? I see that's what the anamorphic lens manufacturers recommend if masking is not involved... is the extra width of a 2.40:1 screen to allow for masking and have nothing to do with the projected image? What am I not understanding here?
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