Eagle Aspen ROTR100 DiSEqC antenna rotor - Page 2

I have taken amny of the CM design apart, but didn't think about their design. I have CM rotor in my attic upside down. I Contacted CM anregarding the above issue of the compas directions being reverse and the told me to reverse #1 & 2 wires (if I recall correctly). Unfortunately, that can't be done here.

Come on. I've spent over $700 on my setup and you are worrying about a $30 tripod? Build it out of wood.

Here is what I did. The antenna shown was sold. It was only used on a temporary basis. I have another 4228 on the roof.
I will call EA and see what they say.

I called Eagle Aspen (Pro Brand, take your pick) and asked about a upside down mount.
He told me he didn't think it would be a problem, as it is a very similar design to the CM since it was (supposely) designed by the same person (other than the motor).
I also asked about the reverse compass directions. There is no solution other than after you program in the channel numbers, it wouldn't be a issue any more since you are only interested in a channel number.

I would NOT use the downlead as the power cable (even though it is temping to do so). There is too much loss running through those two devices which is unnessary. See my review about this.
It's not hard to use a two conductor cable that is soldered to short pieces of RG59 with a F fitting on each end as I did.

One thing I didn't do was to cut off the overly long threaded bolts (eight in all). 1 1/2 to 2" could be trimmed from the length.
As with any rotor, run a ground 'jumper' around the rotor bypassing it. Don't rely on the rotor to pass a discharge through it because it won't.

If you are replaceing an existing install, you can use two of the three (or four) wires in the orginal rotor cable.

Just strip two pieces of RG59 (RG 6 is not necessary) back a couple of inches, separate the shield from the dielectric, twist the stands together, solder one wire to the shield and the other to the center conductor. Insulate the two and use heat shrink tubing to cover the length of the splice. Add fittings on each end if you haven't already. You could use one of those pre-made 'jumper' cables, but I never trusted those fittings. I have had to many fail on me.
That's it.

It might be easier to pull the rotor wire down to a area that is easy to work on to add the short RG59 jumper (adapter) cable. Inside should be no issue.

DiSEqC was a good idea if they kepted it separate from the coax. To much of a current limitation and in this case, too much loss.

Yes and yes.

BTW, you can edit your post if you need to instead of posting again and welcome to the forums.

Best to ask that in the amp/pre-amp thread.

Yes, it will work (for now).

BTW, it really isn't obvious where you are from and welcome to the forums.

I just discovered this a few weeks ago. I called their number and was told they were looking for another manufacture to produce these units since the two Chineese companies that supplied these raised prices, making them uncompetitive. As of now, no word on any new source yet. I hope they find someone since I still feel it's a decent buy in spite of the 'quirks'.

Having said that, I did run into a problem 2 years after I purchased my unit. To make a long story short, five of the six screws that hold the main motor/gear plate to the housing loosened and fell out inside the housing causing the circuit board on the motor and the main control board to short out. The rotor stopped responding. I ran some checks without removing the rotor and called the company. We came to the conclusion that it was the control board. I ordered a replacement for $18 (plus shipping). I also ordered a whole replacement rotor for $38 as a spare. When I received the order I removed the rotor and noticed something rattleing around inside. I had no idea what it was untill I removed the bottom plate. From all the recent windy days we have had in the past year or so, the constant rocking back and forth loosened those screws and all but one fell out. One 'cap' on the manin board completely broke off, but something else went south since replaceing that disn't solve the problem. I replaced the board with the new one, but the motor still didn't respond.

I called the company back and told them even though it was one year over the warrenty period I fealt I shouldn't have to take the 'hit' for this. He aggreed and sent me another rotor at no charge. I used the rotor I purchased to replace the orginal and now have a spare.
He admitted this has happened before. There was a black substance on the screw threads which was suppose to prevent this, but it seemed more like dried grease. I removed the screws on the replacement and used lock washers this time and tightened them down as best I could. I'm hoping that will do the trick.

I dissasembled the orginal rotor and I canm report all the gears are metal! The ball bearings are in a 'race' that prevents them from dropping out. Unlike the orginal Channel master design where only grease holds them in palvce (if your lucky), these can't fall out so you can't loose them. They are also twice the size of the CM design. The only reason one would have to remove that plate is to replace the motor itself since the screws that hold it in place are only accessible from inside. I can't see any way any of those gears would fail.

Thre was concern regarding the small motor. With the gear reduction, I really don't see a issue here. It's not lifting the antenna, it's just turning it. One note of caution, I don't know if I would use this rotor mounted upside down in an attic (hanging from the rafters) since the 'clip' that holds the main shaft in place isn't made to support all that weight. The CM design is somewhat better in this repsect.

AFAIK, it's the same design.
I would suggest calling them to show interest. Ask them when are more expected. Tell them you are interested and you know others are also. I just talked to them about something else and was told "they are getting closer".

Pro Brand International: 770-423-7072

reserved

Edited by videobruce - 2/12/13 at 4:49am