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Philips 42" 1080p LCD TV (42PFL7432D/37) - Page 3

post #61 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knightwulf View Post

1.) Is this a 6 or 8-bit panel (I.e.: 16.2m colours dithered to 16.7m or true 16.7)

8-bit
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knightwulf View Post

2.) How's the banding?

I'm a little biased, but I have seen several of these and have not noticed any issues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knightwulf View Post

3.) What percent of the NTSC colour gamut does it display?

We do use the latest CCFL technology for the backlight. I don't have the exact number but something around 80% of the NTSC color gamut.

To reference a previous question as well, we haven't switched to a new backlight technology because there are also some disadvantages. Without very advanced color management and tweaking, the new backlight technologies can produce some very unnatural colors (fluorescent colors which aren't supposed to be fluorescent, and skin tones than are too green/yellow). Currently we don't feel that the advantages outweigh the disadvantages.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knightwulf View Post

4.) Will it take 100% of a 1920x1080x60 signal from a PC via DVI-HDMI converter cable?

Yes, when connecting a PC via HDMI use the "High Resolution" Format mode. This format name will change to "Unscaled" with the SW release scheduled to come next week.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ironchef25 View Post

well i hooked my ps3 tonight thru hdmi1 and at set it to output 1080p. tried playing grand turismo hd. (1080p) game and when it switch to the game. i got the blue screen with un supported video format. after i reset the ps3 load it up and tried it agian and it worked. I played oblivion for 20mins and decided to watch a bluray.(departed)
when i put the disk and played it. it didit agian. bluscreen and it said un supported video format. switch the source to hdmi two and went back to hdmi 1(where the ps3 is connected) and it decided to worked. it seems to me that its getting stuck when its switch signal from 720p to 1080p ever so often.

Check to make sure you have the latest firmware for the PS3. Some of the early firmware on the PS3 was a little goofy with HDMI output.

Also, anytime there is a drop in the signal (like when switching format modes), the TV will display a blue screen and the message "Unsupported Format." This is simply indicating that there is currently no signal being fed into the input. This should be a temporary display lasting no more than 3-5 seconds (possibly up to 10 seconds with HDMI devices that are operating outside of specification) We have tested extensively with the PS3 and many other HDMI devices. Rarely (1-2%) of the time you may have a handshake issue with the HDMI signal. This can usually be fixed by switching to a non-HDMI input (ex. AV3) and then switching back to the HDMI input.

Additionally there is a SW release scheduled for next week. No major issues just working to improve interoperability with HDMI devices, so this may also help.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ironchef25 View Post

why is it that when i watch bluray. the screen is not fill up. i have black bars. i tried switching the format and it still there. automatic, widescreen and hd and its still there.

A few things to check:

1. Check the presentation of the movie, i.e. 2.35:1, 1.85:1, 1.78:1... 1.78:1 and 1.85:1 anamorphic will fill the entire screen. Other formats will still have black bars because they were filmed in a wider aspect than the TV (16:9) There are some threads in this forum with more information as well. Do a search and you will come across more info on Movie Aspect Ratios

2. Check your Blu-Ray player to make sure it is set to output a 16:9 image vs. a 4:3 image. All DVD players default to 4:3, but I'm not sure about Blu-Ray

3. Automatic format mode should stretch it. Give it a minute or two to adjust. We have adjusted the algorithm this year to make automatic more stable (trying to reduce the constant resizing that could be an annoyance especially when dealing with TV commercials).
post #62 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by pikoo View Post

Thank you very much. Is the picture of 42PFL7422D in Amazon.com right? Amazon also mentioned "Pixel Plus". I think it should be "Pixel Perfect" - right?

The picture was correct. And the link you had previously did say Perfect Pixel HD Engine.
post #63 of 6891
Hey Phillips,
Are the HDMI inputs on this TV compatible with HDMI-CEC?
post #64 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGJOHNB20 View Post

Hey Phillips,
Are the HDMI inputs on this TV compatible with HDMI-CEC?

No, we are doing work with CEC but current CEC protocol has a very limited range of commands.

This TV does support discrete IR commands, and also RS-232 commands via the 3.5mm service jack.

Check out www.remotecentral.com for more information on discrete and RS-232 control.
post #65 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philips TV View Post

The picture was correct. And the link you had previously did say Perfect Pixel HD Engine.

Thanks for all your insights. You are awesome. Here is what Amazon mentioned in their web-site about 7422D:

Technical Details
* 42" LCD HDTV, 1080 p with matching swivel stand
* Pixel Plus HD Engine for the most vivid and sharp HD images
post #66 of 6891
yah dont rely on amazon discription. a few days ago i saw a discription for this tv in amazon and it said full ambilight which is not true. the tv has surround ambilight which is left and right only.

thanks philips tv for explaining alot.

anyone know when the firmware update is coming out? and what will it included
post #67 of 6891
Thanks for all the information Philips TV and others. I took a look at this set last night in BB and the picture looks great. I was really impressed with the amount of highlight and shadow detail preserved in this set, especially relative to the Sharp model it was sitting next to. I'll probably be taking a look in another store before I pull the trigger (their TVs weren't particularly well-adjusted in that store), but right now the Philips is definitely the strongest contender.

I saw above someone mentioning that this model can take 1080p/24 and 1080/30 signals. Philips TV, can you confirm this? Also, since it's not a 120Hz panel, what does the set do with the 1080p/24 source? I'm assuming it's performing it's own internal 3:2 conversion, but if anyone else knows the answer to this it would very helpful.
post #68 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by thefreefood View Post

I saw above someone mentioning that this model can take 1080p/24 and 1080/30 signals. Philips TV, can you confirm this? Also, since it's not a 120Hz panel, what does the set do with the 1080p/24 source? I'm assuming it's performing it's own internal 3:2 conversion, but if anyone else knows the answer to this it would very helpful.

Yes, all 2007 model Philips 1080p sets accept 1080p/24, 1080p/30, 1080p/60 via both HDMI and Component.

for 24 material the set does a 3:2 pulldown
post #69 of 6891
Does anyone know when or if they will come out with a 1080p Ambilight with the white boarder around it? I have a black wall and am not sure if the regular ambilight will work with that dark of a color?
post #70 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philips TV View Post

for 24 material the set does a 3:2 pulldown

That's a bit disappointing ... could there be a firmware upgrade to do away with the 3:2 pulldown? A 48Hz (or better still 72Hz) refresh rate would be best. Would the 9-series be able to do this?
post #71 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelJames View Post

Does anyone know when or if they will come out with a 1080p Ambilight with the white boarder around it? I have a black wall and am not sure if the regular ambilight will work with that dark of a color?

You mean the "Aura" ... I'm also interested in that beauty ...
post #72 of 6891
Philips TV, thanks for the info on the HDMI connectors being version 1.2a. Can you please comment on why Philips would not be using 1.3 or 1.3a connectors which seem to have a lot more capability and would be more future proof. I have been particularly interested in the lip sync feature as out of sync audio drives me crazy. Is it a cost issue? Also, is there an adjustment on the unit to adjust the audio lag/delay to try and fix an audio sync issue?

Can you please describe Philips' position on stuck/dead pixels and the chances of getting a unit with out any.

Thanks for all your answers.
post #73 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by AK47 View Post

You mean the "Aura" ... I'm also interested in that beauty ...

Yep!!! When does the Aura come out in 1080p?
post #74 of 6891
lol,im sorry but you Americans make me laugh when you worry about philips being a good brand or not.

Over in Europe philips is one of 'the' brands.

We are talking on level terms as toshiba, sony..or even better, there tvs have always been awesome(very overpriced) but awesome.

They are a dutch company and have been making tv's since the 1950's...they also make everything else electrical you can think of.
post #75 of 6891
Thread Starter 
Royal Philip is a pretty good brand over in Hong Kong as well. It's just that philip was not known here in the states to make top notch Television. But with this line of tv I hope Philip will make it big here. All they need now to compete with the Big Guns here in the States are LED backlighting, HDMI 1.3, 120Hz, and "Panorama" view that won't zoom in and out. I know they already demo some of the technology.
post #76 of 6891
can someone explain to me the concept of the light sensor. cause for me it seems that the picture is much better when this is off.whites are much brighter and the white levels seems higher.
post #77 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by AK47 View Post

Not exactly LG's ... it's a JV between Philips and LG, I understand it ... it's called LG-Philips or now LP Panel. Even though the panels are the same, the video circuitries are diff.

Ambilight are (or were) flourescent lamps ... so, they buzz ... heard that Philips now changed to Ambilight to LED instead (which should not buzz any more) but the catalog didn't mention a thing. Can anyone confirm?


Well I know the few times I have turned on Ambilight, there was no buzzing at all so maybe that's a good sign
post #78 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by ironchef25 View Post

well i hooked my ps3 tonight thru hdmi1 and at set it to output 1080p. tried playing grand turismo hd. (1080p) game and when it switch to the game. i got the blue screen with un supported video format. after i reset the ps3 load it up and tried it agian and it worked. I played oblivion for 20mins and decided to watch a bluray.(departed)
when i put the disk and played it. it didit agian. bluscreen and it said un supported video format. switch the source to hdmi two and went back to hdmi 1(where the ps3 is connected) and it decided to worked. it seems to me that its getting stuck when its switch signal from 720p to 1080p ever so often.

why is it that when i watch bluray. the screen is not fill up. i have black bars. i tried switching the format and it still there. automatic, widescreen and hd and its still there.

Sounds like a similar problem that I had when I tried my PS3. My sony 40V2500 didn't do that but then again it is Sony . Well I honestly don't think it will be a deal breaker for me. I come home from vacation today so I am going to work on calibrating the set. Honestly, I REALLY want this set to work out for me because I have been through so many sets with dead/stuck pixels, banding problems, clouds, etc. So far so good though. Maybe that firmware upgrade that philips tv is talking about will fix the handshake issues on the PS3. I think what is strange is that my xbox elite has NO handshake problems at all running through HDMI......leave it to sony to not be compatible .

I will report back tonight and if anyone has any settings, please post them. Thanks!
post #79 of 6891
is there any long term effect if i turned off the light sensor. its seems brighter when its off so im sure it uses more lighting from the backlight. is the light sensor there to prolong the backlight lifespan?
post #80 of 6891
I went to another BB last night to get another look for comparison and although they had it in stock, they hadn't even put it out on the floor yet. I took another look at the alternatives I'd been considering and decided to pull the trigger anyway. They gave me the price adjustment from the online sale, but I couldn't fit it in my car, so the delivery truck comes Tuesday.

I'm definitely looking forward to seeing what this thing can do when it's not in that atrocious fluorescent lighting.
post #81 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by ironchef25 View Post

is there any long term effect if i turned off the light sensor. its seems brighter when its off so im sure it uses more lighting from the backlight. is the light sensor there to prolong the backlight lifespan?

I'm inclined to think that it's intended for PQ rather than energy-saving or panel-lifespan-saving considerations. When the room is dark, you don't need that much light output to be able to see the details.

Having said this, I'd do a day calibration and a night calibration with the light sensor off if I were you.

post #82 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by ironchef25 View Post


i did notice that when the format is in auto. it would change the screen stretch base on the content of the tv back and forth. kinna anoying but nothing realy serious.


If you change it to "widescreen" mode, it will stop trying to stretch the picture.

:-)

Charles
post #83 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by VeeArSix View Post

sounds like there's an HDCP handshake issue w/ the set and the PS3. the Samsungs also have this problem and haven't found a concrete solution yet.

is the problem similar to the one in the video here?

or is it something different?

I have the Philips 42" 1080p tv and it does something very similar. For some reason it will not do 1080p. It tells me that the format is invalid or something like that. I even had a upconverting 1080p Philips dvd play attached via hdmi. Oh well other than that, the tv is awesome. It is the sharpest clearest LCD that I have seen.
After I make my 5 post I will post some picture for you guys to see with the ambient light.

If anyone knows of a way to get 1080p to work let me know. I tried unpluging the hdmi cable and switching the inputs with no success.

Syirrus
post #84 of 6891
Well everything was going smoothly until last night. The tv has performed great for satellite and PS3/XBOX 360 but I am having an issues on the component connections. My DVD player and Nintendo Wii both have what seems to be interference (power/electrical) on the screen. There are wavy/static lines whenever I turn them on. When they are off there are no lines at all on the screen. It exhibits a perfect blue background. None of my other ports do this on the tv. I already tried plugging into a different outlet in the house and moving the component cables from behind the tv to the front and it does the same thing. About the only other thing I can think to do is take the tv out of the cabinet and isolate it. If it still does it, then it's going back. My previous Sony LCD didn't do this at all and nothing has changed in my setup. Anyone have ideas?

PS: Man that black piano finish on the outside bezel scratches easily! LOL
post #85 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by AK47 View Post

That's a bit disappointing ... could there be a firmware upgrade to do away with the 3:2 pulldown? A 48Hz (or better still 72Hz) refresh rate would be best. Would the 9-series be able to do this?

There isn't much choice with a 60Hz panel. 3:2 pulldown is the best way to transition the 24Hz material to 60Hz. (Any Blu-Ray player that outputs 1080p60 does this also). Also, with the TV supporting 24Hz, it gives you the choice of letting the TV do the 3:2 pulldown, or the Blu-Ray player. If one does a better job you have the option.

48Hz, would just flicker terribly. Especially if you are used to 60Hz.

72Hz would be a good option. The only TVs I know that are currently doing this are some higher end Pioneers. 72Hz still doesn't have smooth motion because you are just tripling the frames, so the image will still appear "juddery" I would consider 72Hz a higher-end "videophile" feature. Not really the price point these TVs are in.

The 9-series will also use 3:2 pulldown. But, I'll do some investigating if there are any differences b/c of the 120Hz panel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ironchef25 View Post

can someone explain to me the concept of the light sensor. cause for me it seems that the picture is much better when this is off.whites are much brighter and the white levels seems higher.

The light sensor adjust the brightness and contrast of the screen dynamically with the changing light levels in the room. If the room darkens, the picture darkens, if the room brightens the picture brightens. The feature is a personal preference so just set it to your liking, there is no adverse affect on the TV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YOTR View Post

Well everything was going smoothly until last night. The tv has performed great for satellite and PS3/XBOX 360 but I am having an issues on the component connections. My DVD player and Nintendo Wii both have what seems to be interference (power/electrical) on the screen. There are wavy/static lines whenever I turn them on. When they are off there are no lines at all on the screen. It exhibits a perfect blue background. None of my other ports do this on the tv. I already tried plugging into a different outlet in the house and moving the component cables from behind the tv to the front and it does the same thing. About the only other thing I can think to do is take the tv out of the cabinet and isolate it. If it still does it, then it's going back. My previous Sony LCD didn't do this at all and nothing has changed in my setup. Anyone have ideas?

Good Eyes YOTR. There was a minor change in the board layout which could cause minor video interference in some situations with Analog connections. There is already have a firmware update out to fix it.

http://www.usasupport.philips.com/pr...SU_US_CONSUMER

Quote:
Originally Posted by gameling View Post

Philips TV, thanks for the info on the HDMI connectors being version 1.2a. Can you please comment on why Philips would not be using 1.3 or 1.3a connectors which seem to have a lot more capability and would be more future proof. I have been particularly interested in the lip sync feature as out of sync audio drives me crazy. Is it a cost issue? Also, is there an adjustment on the unit to adjust the audio lag/delay to try and fix an audio sync issue?

We feel that supporting all formats of 1080p (24,30,60hz) on both Component and HDMI is more important for "future proofing" than HDMI1.3. HDMI1.2a connections will be compatible with all future versions of HDMI. A TV that doesn't support the full range of 1080p signals may have to employ workaround or sub-optimal connections with future 1080p devices.

Also, search this forum. There are several threads on HDMI1.3. My only comment is that all of the features people are excited about with HDMI1.3 are optional features, and are expensive for manufacturers to activate...

The SPDIF (Digital Coax) audio out is "Display Synced" so that the audio, when fed into an external device, will match the video on the screen. Also, many AV receivers have options to adjust the audio to match the video displays, if the audio is not going through the TV. In our testing we have not seen any noticable audio lag. Please let me know if you have an issue with this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gameling View Post

Can you please describe Philips' position on stuck/dead pixels and the chances of getting a unit with out any.

This is something I'd have to research with our service team. We employ very high standards in testing and verifying panel quality. If I can track down some information I will let you know. (I am on vacation, though)
post #86 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by YOTR View Post

Well everything was going smoothly until last night. The tv has performed great for satellite and PS3/XBOX 360 but I am having an issues on the component connections. My DVD player and Nintendo Wii both have what seems to be interference (power/electrical) on the screen. There are wavy/static lines whenever I turn them on. When they are off there are no lines at all on the screen. It exhibits a perfect blue background. None of my other ports do this on the tv. I already tried plugging into a different outlet in the house and moving the component cables from behind the tv to the front and it does the same thing. About the only other thing I can think to do is take the tv out of the cabinet and isolate it. If it still does it, then it's going back. My previous Sony LCD didn't do this at all and nothing has changed in my setup. Anyone have ideas?

Ground loop issue?
post #87 of 6891
Thanks PhilipsTV! I just downloaded it and will try it tonight when I get home. I really like the tv so I don't want to return it.
post #88 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by AK47 View Post

Ground loop issue?


I don't think that's it but you never know. I think what is weird is that my older Sony 40V2500 I had before did not exhibit this problem. All of the HDMI ports on the TV are flawless also without any wavy lines. I am going to try the firmware update that PhilipsTV reported and hopefully it works. I really like the tv minus the black piano finish. It reminds me of the PS3 finish which attracts scratches no matter how anal you are.........lol. Microfiber even seems to scratch it at times. Anyone have any suggestions how to clean the bezel? When I took the plastic strips off of it it left a little residue. Can I just use a household cleaner to clean it and then wipe off with a microfiber? It's really not that big of a deal but I was curious.
post #89 of 6891
Just got this one as a gift (this is a GOOD birthday), and it is incredible. Very quiet, doesn't appear to produce too much heat, easy setup and tweaking, easily accessible rear and side controls, plenty of connections, LED ambilight is a great improvement. Great picture quality, with 1080p input via HDMI, you can't beat it. The only negative I've noticed so far is the sound. The 8W output is not that good. It's not awful, but you're definitely going to want a good surround system with this, or at least some alternate audio output. I have it set up in a room where i have no control over ambient lighting, and it performs equally well in bright daylight and night. A great buy for the $. If it's missing something, I haven't found it yet.
post #90 of 6891
/Quote/ lol,im sorry but you Americans make me laugh when you worry about philips being a good brand or not.

Over in Europe philips is one of 'the' brands.

We are talking on level terms as toshiba, sony..or even better, there tvs have always been awesome(very overpriced) but awesome.

They are a dutch company and have been making tv's since the 1950's...they also make everything else electrical you can think of. /Quote//


Another funny fact that people don't know is that about 10 years ago Philips made the worlds first flat panel ever.
RESPECT!
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