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Philips 42" 1080p LCD TV (42PFL7432D/37) - Page 223

post #6661 of 6891
I'm not sure if there is a discrete code for them (both up and down), I would have to check. The worse-case scenario is creating a macro like you said. It is clunky, but if you time it right it's not as bad as it seems.

I'm not entirely sure about your connection layout, but I would probably control the volume from the receiver anyway. And if you look for a universal remote. I'd recommend the Harmony 676 (670, if you can't find the 676); it's cheap enough for you to do what you need.
post #6662 of 6891
Does anybody know how or if it's possible to get the digital audio out of the TV and into my receiver when viewing OTA HD channels? I searched the preview posts and found some info about re-labeling, so I'll try that but if there's any other tips, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
post #6663 of 6891
Ok, is there anyone here who has gotten the standby whine fix?

I got ahold of the official philips repair documents, which basically says to insert a 6.8MOhm resistor (for my tv anyway, there are 3 different combos) in parallel with 3b34 and 3b60. As you can see in my picture, that is exactly what I did, taking the resistance from the bridge diode to the mosfet from 1.55MOhm to 1.22MOhm. The blue resistor is the one I added.

Now, according to Philips, this should have reduced the whine to an unnoticeable level, but it is just as loud as ever! (maybe a little quieter). What the heck? Is their repair document wrong? Should I keep on adding more resistors in parallel until the problem goes away??? Does anybody have any info on this? Has anyone had their TV successfully repaired under warranty and it's not squealing anymore? If so, could anyone unscrew theirs and photograph the circuit board so we can see what was done to it? This is driving me nuts!!! Additionally, the TV now makes the 'turn on' click while it is off at random intervals.

(I originally posted this in the calibration thread by mistake!!)


LL
post #6664 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by west43rd View Post

LOL

This is the standby issue that all of us have had. What's happening is the power shuts off, then after a few second there is a click, which is the standby power coming on. So the TV is shutting off immediately, but then restarting the standby power. This is also what starts the whine. If you only hear the whine with your head in the back of the TV, you should have the good resistor. If it makes your head explode from 10 feet away, it's worth a service call to fix.

The TV updates channel lineups and receives other information about programming during standby. You'll also notice over time that it clicks periodically throughout the day while the unit is off. This is the system running it's information updates.

Bob

See my post above. What is the good resistor? Can I just keep adding resistors until the whine goes away? I am afraid to add anymore beyond what the repair document says because I don't want to toast it. Is there anyway to disable the standby power?

Can someone who has had the fix done successfully (no more whine) open theirs up and photograph the repair site as I have done so we can see what resistors were added?

Mine is not under warranty, so I am doing all repairs myself and don't want to screw it up.
post #6665 of 6891
I know that a couple people have had the whine fixed, but that only means quieter, as the whine doesn't entirely go away. Having said, I'm not one of them, otherwise I would gladly post a picture for you. I do know that Bob here (west43rd) did the fix himself, so he'll probably chime in soon with his point of view on the issue, but I just wanted to make you aware that the whine is not (or, has not) going away for good, it will most likely just be less noticeable.
post #6666 of 6891
Sidespar, if you don't mind my asking, where did you get ahold of the official Philips repair documents?
post #6667 of 6891
overall, this set has been great. i purchased it almost two years ago, and have been quite happy. i read through the first seventy or so pages of this thread, then started posting a bit about my experiences, and then kind of dropped off, 'cos everything was fine. please forgive me for not scouring through the whole of this thread; i apologize if this has been asked and answered before, but i have a new issue...

whenever using the side buttons, after a couple of seconds, the set turns off and then back on again. if changing the volume by the side buttons triggers this, then the volume change is unregistered when the set turns back on. the power button is unresponsive for a second or so, then the set turns off and then back on again. i havent tried changing channels, 'cos i use the hdmi exclusively, and go between those two inputs with the remote...

thus far, using the remote causes none of this behavior; when using the remote, the set behaves normally.

hopefully the remote continues to work the tv so it behaves normally, because if the set ever acts with remote the way it does with the side buttons, it will be unuseable...

thanks, in advance, for any advice and insight.
post #6668 of 6891
One of the early firmware upgrades removed the source screen image when one switches from HDMI input to TV input on my set. I have HDMI 1 set to the CBL/STB, HDMI 2 - HDDVD, HDMI 3 to BluRay. When I switch, the OK button does not function. I found a 'work around' by using the channel select and working blindly until it finally stops on TV.

Anyone else encounter this problem?
post #6669 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by yukon04 View Post

One of the early firmware upgrades removed the source screen image when one switches from HDMI input to TV input on my set. I have HDMI 1 set to the CBL/STB, HDMI 2 - HDDVD, HDMI 3 to BluRay. When I switch, the OK button does not function. I found a 'work around' by using the channel select and working blindly until it finally stops on TV.

Anyone else encounter this problem?

No, which version do you have?
post #6670 of 6891
Edgary is right, of course.

The whine fix does not eliminate the whine, but makes it unnoticeable at a distance and may take several days to break in. You'll still hear a whine charging up periodically as the set powers up in sleep mode, but it quickly goes away as long as you are at a typical viewing distance.

Now if you stick your head at the back of the set, all bets are off. That sucker still squeals like a greased pig in heat.

Bob
post #6671 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiteck View Post

Sidespar, if you don't mind my asking, where did you get ahold of the official Philips repair documents?

Someone on this forum sent them to me. They are poorly written, but describe the fix good enough, and give you the part number of the resistor to use. I didn't deviate from the instructions given that my TV was not under warranty.
post #6672 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by west43rd View Post

Edgary is right, of course.

The whine fix does not eliminate the whine, but makes it unnoticeable at a distance and may take several days to break in. You'll still hear a whine charging up periodically as the set powers up in sleep mode, but it quickly goes away as long as you are at a typical viewing distance.

Now if you stick your head at the back of the set, all bets are off. That sucker still squeals like a greased pig in heat.

Bob

I am young and still have sensitive ears to high frequency. So I still hear it all the time. In fact, I hardly noticed a difference at all after putting it in. Although I guess it is a little better from a distance. Do you think if I added another resistor in series it would make it better? Would I need to do it in series or parallel? I am guessing series since the original addition increased the resistance, and I'm guessing we want to keep on increasing it. But I am concerned because of the specific resistor that they said to use. Where did they come upon this value? If I increase the resistance, do I run the risk of damaging everything? I'm guessing all this is doing is limiting power available to the standby supply. So if I limit it too much, it won't work at all?
post #6673 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by sidespar View Post

I am young and still have sensitive ears to high frequency. So I still hear it all the time. In fact, I hardly noticed a difference at all after putting it in. Although I guess it is a little better from a distance. Do you think if I added another resistor in series it would make it better? Would I need to do it in series or parallel? I am guessing series since the original addition increased the resistance, and I'm guessing we want to keep on increasing it. But I am concerned because of the specific resistor that they said to use. Where did they come upon this value? If I increase the resistance, do I run the risk of damaging everything? I'm guessing all this is doing is limiting power available to the standby supply. So if I limit it too much, it won't work at all?

You may want to replace the resistor again and see if another one gets to an acceptable frequency. The engineers basically game up with this value based on experimentation. But when a tech came out and did my board I had the same issue of the noise getting worse. So the engineers sent me their board and I installed that. Solved the problem completely.

All I can think is that there is some minor differences between brands or individual resistors that could be causing issues. I don't think adding more resistors will help the problem.

As a side note, when the engineers got my original board back and tried it, they thought the fix was even better than theirs, so either people are that different with sensitivities, the resistors just need time to settle or there is variance with the resistors themselves.
post #6674 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by sidespar View Post

Someone on this forum sent them to me. They are poorly written, but describe the fix good enough, and give you the part number of the resistor to use. I didn't deviate from the instructions given that my TV was not under warranty.

Did they just send you the the documentation for the standby whine issue, or the 3 HDMI issue as well?

Does any one know if there is a repair for the 3 HDMI issue other than replacing the entire board?
post #6675 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiteck View Post

Did they just send you the the documentation for the standby whine issue, or the 3 HDMI issue as well?

Does any one know if there is a repair for the 3 HDMI issue other than replacing the entire board?

It is a fix, not a board replacement, but I never got that documentation. When the engineers sent me their test board to fix the whine, it was the one they had already performed the HDMI fix on. But I do know that it is a service repair not a replacement.

The trouble now is that with Philips having pulled back their US presence and sold the name rights here, I don't think you will find the same level of support and knowledge that we had early on in the lifecycle of this product. Not sure where you will get this.
post #6676 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by edgary View Post

No, which version do you have?

I am currently running firmware 0.64.14.11, which I believe is the latest for a 2007 set. I believe I discussed this back in thread # 2803 and 2804. This issue started when I switched from the original firmware 39.1.1 to 51.1.0. For some reason, I can switch to AV1, AV2, AV3 with no difficulty, but when I switch to TV input, nothing happens when I press the OK button. I have to use the channel selector and then its a "hit & miss" effort. Ironically, switching back to STB-1 which is the HDMI 1 input, its a snap. Not a big issue, I can work around it, just annoying. I was just curious if anyone else had experienced this issue.
post #6677 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by west43rd View Post

The trouble now is that with Philips having pulled back their US presence and sold the name rights here, I don't think you will find the same level of support and knowledge that we had early on in the lifecycle of this product. Not sure where you will get this.

Good point
post #6678 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by yukon04 View Post

I am currently running firmware 0.64.14.11, which I believe is the latest for a 2007 set. I believe I discussed this back in thread # 2803 and 2804. This issue started when I switched from the original firmware 39.1.1 to 51.1.0. For some reason, I can switch to AV1, AV2, AV3 with no difficulty, but when I switch to TV input, nothing happens when I press the OK button. I have to use the channel selector and then its a "hit & miss" effort. Ironically, switching back to STB-1 which is the HDMI 1 input, its a snap. Not a big issue, I can work around it, just annoying. I was just curious if anyone else had experienced this issue.

Not that same problem, but lately I have trouble going to HDMI 2 from any other input. And this is with the discrete code in a Harmony remote. However, I haven't figured out if it's the remote itself or the TV, but HDMI 2 is the only one I have trouble changing to. Again, that's with the discrete code. If I use the Philips remote, I can switch inputs by selecting them and pressing OK (actually, I can do the same, with no problems, on the Harmony remote).
post #6679 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by edgary View Post

Not that same problem, but lately I have trouble going to HDMI 2 from any other input. And this is with the discrete code in a Harmony remote. However, I haven't figured out if it's the remote itself or the TV, but HDMI 2 is the only one I have trouble changing to. Again, that's with the discrete code. If I use the Philips remote, I can switch inputs by selecting them and pressing OK (actually, I can do the same, with no problems, on the Harmony remote).

I have this problem and get around it by having my remote macro always go to 'side' first and then what I am switching to. This always works..

xnappo
post #6680 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by xnappo View Post

I have this problem and get around it by having my remote macro always go to 'side' first and then what I am switching to. This always works..

xnappo

Interesting. Do you think it's the TV or the remote?

I'll try that soon. Thanks!
post #6681 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by yukon04 View Post

I am currently running firmware 0.64.14.11, which I believe is the latest for a 2007 set. I believe I discussed this back in thread # 2803 and 2804. This issue started when I switched from the original firmware 39.1.1 to 51.1.0. For some reason, I can switch to AV1, AV2, AV3 with no difficulty, but when I switch to TV input, nothing happens when I press the OK button. I have to use the channel selector and then its a "hit & miss" effort. Ironically, switching back to STB-1 which is the HDMI 1 input, its a snap. Not a big issue, I can work around it, just annoying. I was just curious if anyone else had experienced this issue.

This is a known issue that has remained unfixed since pretty much launch. The only way to fix it is to leave the set on the TV input before shutting down. For some reason when the TV is shut off on any other input besides TV it won't return to the TV Input. Most people don't have the issue, because they are using cable boxes and never need to actually go to the built-in tuner.

Another thing to do is set up channel lists. Then you just press the okay button to bring up your list, navigate quickly to the channel you want and then the input will change.

This remains my only lasting gripe with the set, since I've complained about the issue since July of 2007.

Bob
post #6682 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by edgary View Post

Interesting. Do you think it's the TV or the remote?

I'll try that soon. Thanks!

Definitely the TV.

xnappo
post #6683 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by xnappo View Post

Definitely the TV.

xnappo

post #6684 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by edgary View Post


I have been living with it for awhile :
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...e#post11088326

Remember July 2007? Awwww.. What innocent times!

xnappo
post #6685 of 6891
Yeah I remember

At the end of the day, though, when it's time to upgrade, I am going to miss the Ambilight feature. I guess it could be because so far I've found workarounds to my issues, but I don't know I would think the same if another problem were to show up.
post #6686 of 6891
I own the 47" version of this set. One question regarding a source that's 24 fps like Blu-Ray's. I know these sets handle this very well, however should I be setting my PS3 or my HD DVD player to this, or just send it as 24 fps. I do see a slight picture difference, but I can't decide if it's proper or not?
post #6687 of 6891
Quote:
Originally Posted by brinyhenry View Post

I own the 47" version of this set. One question regarding a source that's 24 fps like Blu-Ray's. I know these sets handle this very well, however should I be setting my PS3 or my HD DVD player to this, or just send it as 24 fps. I do see a slight picture difference, but I can't decide if it's proper or not?

Our set will pass a 3:2 pulldown test *if* you turn off noise reduction (3:2 pulldown is how it converts 24fps to 60hz). It is very likely that your BluRay/HD-DVD player also does 3:2 pulldown correctly...

xnappo
post #6688 of 6891
To add to what xnappo said, everything I've read (I couldn't tell a difference myself) points to the PS3 doing a better job on the pull-down than the TV. Like I said, I didn't notice any difference, but I still let the PS3 do the conversion and have the TV just work with 60Hz.
post #6689 of 6891
I just hooked up my 42 Philips to a comcast box to get HD. Originally, I was just hooked up by coaxial to the wall to get the standard 5 stations in HD from the sets internal digital tuner. Now that I am using the Comcast box, I've noticed that when I change the stations I get this snapping/popping sound when the station is changed and then it is fine during the broadcast. It's only between changing stations. I get it from most stations but not all. I am hooked up Via HDMI. Any clues? It it very annoying.
post #6690 of 6891
I just had Comcast out here to look at my problem with the popping sound comming through my tv speakers when changing channels on my Comcast Box Via HDMI. By changing to component cables the popping sound is gone. I have the latest firmware for my Philips (.064.014.018). Why do I still have this problem, when it was supposed to have been corrected on a previous firmware update? Anyone else have an answer for this?
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