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The official SeymourAV center stage screen thread! - Page 51

post #1501 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 05 View Post

I was just showing what Enlightor 4K looks like since I did not see an example. Enlightor 4K is a great looking screen. As others have said, you would not realize that it was AT, when looking at it. Nothing wrong with Center Stage XD. I used it for over a year. It just comes down to viewing distance and eye acuity.

Oh I agree it is a incredible material and the added cost is certainly there. As the saying goes, you have to pay to play
post #1502 of 2609
*whew*

After months of delay, I finally have my screen mounted to the "wall".

Which leaves me with a couple of quick questions....
(Questions which are probably linked to my losing all the instructions before getting this thing mounted. )

1. The screen came with a two part metal mounting bracket. The first one I mounted to the wall, but I could not figure out how to attach the other side to the frame of the screen so I just hung it from the lip of the frame itself. Is that bad?

The cross board holding the bracket.


The top bar of the screen mounted on the bracket.


2. With the picture sized to fit the entire screen, things like the FF and REV arrows show up on the border, I assume this is normal?

3. Along with the screen I ordered a set of side masking panels. I assume the guitar pick goes at the top, but I still can't get the darn things to stay in place. Is there some trick to this I'm missing?
post #1503 of 2609
Scamps,

1. How many silver mounting brackets came with the screen? If you received one, it was meant to be centered like you have it. If you received two mounting brackets, they were meant to be evenly spaced to distribute the load evenly across the top. You are correct that the frame lip was meant to engage the brackets.
2.Yes that is normal.
3. If you look on the back inside edge of the masking panels there is usually a label that says where it is to be located (right, left) and the label is usually toward the bottom side of the panel. I believe the guitar pick is always toward the bottom as well.

Hope this helps!
post #1504 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaisand View Post

Scamps,

1. If you received two mounting brackets, they were meant to be evenly spaced to distribute the load evenly across the top.

Ahh. I never thought of that. Oh well one seems to he holding it. Hopefully I won't come home one day to find it on the floor...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaisand View Post

I believe the guitar pick is always toward the bottom as well.

Really? Towards the bottom? OK I'll give that a try tonight.

Thanks.
post #1505 of 2609
Here is a link from Seymour's web site for the instructions you lost.
post #1506 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveHorn View Post

Here is a link from Seymour's web site for the instructions you lost.

Excellent. I looked for a link on the website but never found it. In fact I still can't find it. Bad form Seymour.

On the other hand, I was able to figure pretty much everything out with out them so that's a sign of a well designed piece of hardware.
post #1507 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scamps View Post

Excellent. I looked for a link on the website but never found it. In fact I still can't find it. Bad form Seymour.

On the other hand, I was able to figure pretty much everything out with out them so that's a sign of a well designed piece of hardware.

The link on the website is on the fixed frame page here, down at the bottom near the illustration: http://www.seymourav.com/screensfixed.asp You can get there from any page on the site through the "Screens" header.

If we supplied two Hangman cleats, then you need to use both due to the width of the screen. We recommend mounting them at about 1/6 to 5/6 width of the frame when using panels. That will ensure the top frame piece is perfectly straight and the panels will fit properly. And yes, on the CIH (side) panels, the pick points down so you can read the label to see what side is what. Place it between the frame and the screen, push it up and let the magnets do their magic.

Cheers,
Chris
post #1508 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

The link on the website is on the fixed frame page here, down at the bottom near the illustration: http://www.seymourav.com/screensfixed.asp You can get there from any page on the site through the "Screens" header.

Can I suggest adding a "support" header to the website? It would make it easier to find things like this and probably save you a few emails/calls.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

And yes, on the CIH (side) panels, the pick points down so you can read the label to see what side is what. Place it between the frame and the screen, push it up and let the magnets do their magic.

Cheers,
Chris

I might have to downgrade myself from "Builder in training" back to "HT newbie". I was trying to put them in velvet-to-velvet rather than the other way round. My bad.

You should put me in a commercial. Look! Even this noob can get ridiculously good results with SeymourAV.
post #1509 of 2609
I came home at lunch and tried using the panels in the proper direction, pick down velvet closer to the center of the screen. They still fall off.

So I took a Neodymium Magnet (very strong) and ran it around the edge of the panels and the screen. On the screen I was easily able to locate the magnets placed under the velvet on the top and sides of the frame. However the only thing remotely magnetic on the panels are the right angle brackets.

So does that mean the magnets for the panels are in with the directions I have misplaced and I was supposed to install them?

post #1510 of 2609
The panel magnets are located along the outside edge, in the same locations as you found them on the frame.

It is a requirement like I said that you hang the screen using both Hangman cleats, spaced widely like I said. Otherwise, there will be too much space between the panels and the frame. They are a very close fit and the magnets need close spacing in order to work.

Cheers,
Chris
post #1511 of 2609
You may not have the current, all-magnet panels. If your panels have 1/2" thick squishy-foam along their tops and bottoms, then they are the interference fit versions. It would be even more important for the two supplied Hangman brackets, spaced widely, to be used so that the fit within the frame is as designed. They should fit snugly and require a little compression to squish into the frame.

The current all-magnet versions are less sensitive to how the frame is hung.

Cheers,
Chris
post #1512 of 2609
Widescreen Review has a review of the 4k screen. Have not yet gotten my copy.
post #1513 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bulldogger View Post

Widescreen Review has a review of the 4k screen. Have not yet gotten my copy.

Anyone with online access read it and care to share a synopsis of the review?

Greg
post #1514 of 2609
What does the Screen Excellence masking panels look like? Is it the same as the seymour panels even though it is a different frame?
post #1515 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

What does the Screen Excellence masking panels look like? Is it the same as the seymour panels even though it is a different frame?

Yes, they're the same panels, magnets and all.

Cheers,
Chris
post #1516 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

Yes, they're the same panels, magnets and all.

Cheers,
Chris

Thanks Chris!
post #1517 of 2609
Chris,

How does one clean the EN4K material or avoid it from getting dirty?

Really cool material, but the sample I have which was in a draw some how got a small stain on it which got me thinking of how easily it can get dirty
post #1518 of 2609
Does SeymourAV ever run any type of sale or discounts?
post #1519 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Chris,

How does one clean the EN4K material or avoid it from getting dirty?

Really cool material, but the sample I have which was in a draw some how got a small stain on it which got me thinking of how easily it can get dirty

Hi Larry -

The material can be spot treated with dry techniques: tape, white vinyl eraser, or if any moisture is to be used it must either be distilled or steam. Otherwise, it will show rings. Usually steam and some rubbing with a white vinyl are my favorites. If it's really bad, however the fixed frame screens can be removed and put in the washing machine. Gentle cycle, mild detergant, and not with your red boxers. No dryer.

Last resort, the fixed frame screen material can be replaced, too.

Cheers,
Chris
post #1520 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by dropzone7 View Post

Does SeymourAV ever run any type of sale or discounts?

Not while I've been with them.

There are the occasional B-stock screens that show up, but they're rare.

Cheers,
Chris
post #1521 of 2609
In the next day or two I'll begin building my DIY seymour screen, thanks Chris for the precise cut, I haven't pulled it out of the tube yet. Will it need to be unrolled and "straightened" for a day before attaching it? In other words will it have a natural curl in it from being in the tube for a few weeks?

Also, my screen will be 104" wide, my father thinks I should add a couple of vertical support pieces to help prevent any warping, do you think it's necessary? I like to keep everything as minimal as possible. I'll be using poplar.

Thanks,
Jason
post #1522 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by secondhander View Post

In the next day or two I'll begin building my DIY seymour screen, thanks Chris for the precise cut, I haven't pulled it out of the tube yet. Will it need to be unrolled and "straightened" for a day before attaching it? In other words will it have a natural curl in it from being in the tube for a few weeks?

Also, my screen will be 104" wide, my father thinks I should add a couple of vertical support pieces to help prevent any warping, do you think it's necessary? I like to keep everything as minimal as possible. I'll be using poplar.

Thanks,
Jason

You should leave it in the tube until you're ready to install it so it can keep its round shape. It'll still look a little ripply when you first unroll it but will easily tension flat when you staple or spline it.

At 104 you won't need to center support it unless you used 1x2 or something weak. 1x3 will be ok, and make sure to hang it from the top frame piece so the weight of the frame contributes to tension. If you used 1x4 they are great up to about 120" wide without adding center supports. And by center I don't mean dead center - space it out perhaps 1/3 and 2/3 width. Anything that's behind the image should be as dark as possible.

Cheers,
Chris
post #1523 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

At 104 you won't need to center support it unless you used 1x2 or something weak. 1x3 will be ok, and make sure to hang it from the top frame piece so the weight of the frame contributes to tension. If you used 1x4 they are great up to about 120" wide without adding center supports. And by center I don't mean dead center - space it out perhaps 1/3 and 2/3 width. Anything that's behind the image should be as dark as possible.

Cheers,
Chris


Chris, while we are on the subject. Would your 141" diagonal 2.35 AT fixed frame screen have any center supports? I'm still trying to decide between DIY or a finished screen from you guys. No center supports would be a plus for going with a finished screen I think.
post #1524 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

You should leave it in the tube until you're ready to install it so it can keep its round shape. It'll still look a little ripply when you first unroll it but will easily tension flat when you staple or spline it.

At 104 you won't need to center support it unless you used 1x2 or something weak. 1x3 will be ok, and make sure to hang it from the top frame piece so the weight of the frame contributes to tension. If you used 1x4 they are great up to about 120" wide without adding center supports. And by center I don't mean dead center - space it out perhaps 1/3 and 2/3 width. Anything that's behind the image should be as dark as possible.

Cheers,
Chris


I'll leave it in the tube until we're ready then, thanks Chris. I'll be using 1x4s so I won't use any center supports then.

Cheers
post #1525 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by dropzone7 View Post


Chris, while we are on the subject. Would your 141" diagonal 2.35 AT fixed frame screen have any center supports? I'm still trying to decide between DIY or a finished screen from you guys. No center supports would be a plus for going with a finished screen I think.

If you DIY just make sure you use two center supports @33% and 66% of width so as not to obstruct your center channel.

I tensioned mine pretty tight and sleep good at night knowing it has center support.

Also remember framing and how youll attach to wall when considering how rigid middle needs to be. The weight of the screen frame, box frame, and material together adds up.

Or buy a killer screen from Chris. I wouldnt hesitate to buy from SeymourAV again.....
post #1526 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by dropzone7 View Post

Chris, while we are on the subject. Would your 141" diagonal 2.35 AT fixed frame screen have any center supports? I'm still trying to decide between DIY or a finished screen from you guys. No center supports would be a plus for going with a finished screen I think.

The Seymour AV fixed frame screen never has any center supports, spanning up to a 170" wide image. It was designed for as simple an installation as possible within a reasonable range of home theater sizes.

The Seymour-Screen Excellence fixed frame screens do have 1/3 and 2/3 supports on all but the smallest sizes. It was designed for professional installations to be scaled up to around 300" wide screens.

Cheers,
Chris
post #1527 of 2609
Hello Chris,

With a screen width of 110" (2.35 ratio), what should the finished edge width be if I'm using 1x4 oak frame?
post #1528 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by azula View Post

Hello Chris,

With a screen width of 110" (2.35 ratio), what should the finished edge width be if I'm using 1x4 oak frame?

I'd recommend something lighter and less expensive than oak. Poplar is a good choice that's often easily available and straight.

For an image dimension of 110" x 46-3/4", the outer edges of the frame would be those plus 7" (3.5" x 2) for a 1x4 = 117" x 53-3/4". You might consider simplifying it by doing 90 degree butt joints instead of mitering 45 degrees. Scale it up or down depending on your ambitions.

Cheers,
Chris
post #1529 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsearles View Post

Anyone with online access read it and care to share a synopsis of the review?

I have read it, it is not in front of me, the biggest thing I got out of the article was additional confirmation of what I've heard that gain numbers on weave screens are inflated. I think the reviewer ended up with about .7. Don't quote me on that because I don't have the article in front of me and I'm kind of incredulous the article didn't create more discussion in this thread at this point, unless people just haven't gotten it yet.

I'm trying to go 13'-14' wide, and AT is pretty much set in stone, so I'm very concerned about "misleading" (no offense Chris, I understand the rationale) specs. I don't think there is a good value projector at my screen size that will light up a weave. You are giving up a heck of a lot of tech to go used also. I think there will be something right around the corner that will fit the bill at the price I want to pay that will be significantly less expensive than viable options right now. I don't want to screw up, but I don't want to wait indefinitely either.

Reading that article sure makes it even more interesting that a certain manufacturer (not SeymourAV) practically refuses to send samples out.
post #1530 of 2609
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