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The official SeymourAV center stage screen thread! - Page 58

post #1711 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by azula View Post

has anyone tried to attach the screen frame to the screen wall with velcro? this would enable you to forego using z-bars and drilling mounting brackets into the back of the frame. just trying to think outside the box! lol

You don't need to mount anything to the frame if you use the mounting kit provided. It hangs from the top section of the frame.
post #1712 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by azula View Post

has anyone tried to attach the screen frame to the screen wall with velcro? this would enable you to forego using z-bars and drilling mounting brackets into the back of the frame. just trying to think outside the box! lol

If you are building your own frame, like I did, there would be some advantages to a Velcro attachment method. I went with 2 Z-Bars, and they made the top of the frame stick away from the false wall due to their design. I knew that this would happen, so I just "propped" out the bottom with little rubber cabinet bumpers (about 1"x1" self stick square pieces that I stuck to the false wall framing)

Velcro should work, but the trick will be:
1) You want enough Velcro so that it sticks and doesn't slowly slide down over time.
2) You don't want too much Velcro that you have a hard time getting the screen removed from the wall.

Maybe some system with a small ledge or even pegs at the bottom to hold it square and support some weight, and then some small Velcro pieces at spaces around the frame to hold it against the false wall.

Just tossing out ideas. The simplest seems to be just adding something to the bottom to push it out in order to make it vertical...
post #1713 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

If you are building your own frame, like I did, there would be some advantages to a Velcro attachment method. I went with 2 Z-Bars, and they made the top of the frame stick away from the false wall due to their design. I knew that this would happen, so I just "propped" out the bottom with little rubber cabinet bumpers (about 1"x1" self stick square pieces that I stuck to the false wall framing)

Velcro should work, but the trick will be:
1) You want enough Velcro so that it sticks and doesn't slowly slide down over time.
2) You don't want too much Velcro that you have a hard time getting the screen removed from the wall.

Maybe some system with a small ledge or even pegs at the bottom to hold it square and support some weight, and then some small Velcro pieces at spaces around the frame to hold it against the false wall.

Just tossing out ideas. The simplest seems to be just adding something to the bottom to push it out in order to make it vertical...


This is my situation as well. I'm not too worried about supporting the weight of the frame with velcro. The panels on my screen wall are secured with velcro and they aren't going anywhere! lol. Also, the panels are friction fit which will support some of the weight of the frame as well. I will try the velcro method and report back. Thanks so much for the info!
post #1714 of 2609
Just remember that Velcro is a strong thing. You can always add more, but too much can be tricky.

I would actually recommend putting the "fuzzy" side all the way around the frame, and then just put the hook side in smaller strips on the false wall. That way you don't have to get things lined up 100% perfect.
post #1715 of 2609
Here's a great CIH installation over in the Dedicated HT forum:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1411861

The only thing I'd suggest is to try and darken down more surfaces, but this is a great example of a very well thought out application and top performing equipment.

Cheers,
Chris
post #1716 of 2609
Ordered my 174" Seymour Center Stage XD Curved AT Scope Screen 3 weeks ago, hope to give my impressions soon.
post #1717 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

Ordered my 174" Seymour Center Stage XD Curved AT Scope Screen 3 weeks ago, hope to give my impressions soon.

That's a nice big screen, looking forward to your impressions - AND PICTURES!
post #1718 of 2609
Thought I would show a current picture of my set up. 107" wide curved scope screen with EN4K fabric, JTR T8 speakers behind the screen and a JVC RS45 with Prismasonic HD6000F lens.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
The second inverted projector is my son's gaming projector. A 720 P Planar. The two subs in the front are DIY sealed 12" TC Sounds drivers and I have two more, largeer subs in the back of the room. All equipment is remote located.

Denon 4311
Four pro amps for speakers and subs.
Lumagen Mini 3D
PS3
HD DVD (A35)
HTPC (Intel I3)

Going from 16:9 to scope really provides the wow factor. Image is very sharp and detailed. I need to do some clean up, place the covers back on the electrical boxes and a little wire management. Black sound panels and bass traps behind the screen. The sound panels and bass traps at the back of the room are not white. They are gray. The black walls mess with the camera settings in auto and over expose the images, making the gray panels look white. Love the image on EN4K. Using the projector on normal (low lamp mode) cinema and have the iris closed down 3/4's of the way. Great looking image and sound in this room.
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post #1719 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Thought I would show a current picture of my set up. 107" wide curved scope screen with EN4K fabric, JTR T8 speakers behind the screen and a JVC RS45 with Prismasonic HD6000F lens.

...Great looking image and sound in this room.

Show off.

Cheers,
Chris
post #1720 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Thought I would show a current picture of my set up. 107" wide curved scope screen with EN4K fabric, JTR T8 speakers behind the screen and a JVC RS45 with Prismasonic HD6000F lens.
[/IMG]
[/IMG]
The second inverted projector is my son's gaming projector. A 720 P Planar. The two subs in the front are DIY sealed 12" TC Sounds drivers and I have two more, largeer subs in the back of the room. All equipment is remote located.

Denon 4311
Four pro amps for speakers and subs.
Lumagen Mini 3D
PS3
HD DVD (A35)
HTPC (Intel I3)

Going from 16:9 to scope really provides the wow factor. Image is very sharp and detailed. I need to do some clean up, place the covers back on the electrical boxes and a little wire management. Black sound panels and bass traps behind the screen. The sound panels and bass traps at the back of the room are not white. They are gray. The black walls mess with the camera settings in auto and over expose the images, making the gray panels look white. Love the image on EN4K. Using the projector on normal (low lamp mode) cinema and have the iris closed down 3/4's of the way. Great looking image and sound in this room.

Is 107" big enough depending on seating? I have room for only a 105", and want to make sure it's worth it?
post #1721 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraden32 View Post

Is 107" big enough depending on seating? I have room for only a 105", and want to make sure it's worth it?

105" wide is a nice sized scope image. What is your viewing distance? To get that size of a scope image on a 16:9 screen would require a 121" diagonal screen.
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post #1722 of 2609
I'm beginning to wish I went scope due to the height of 16:9 but I think i'll manage in the end
post #1723 of 2609
Seating can go back as far as needed. But I'm limited to height and width. I can get a wider screen by going 2.35. But my 16:9 image will suffer.

Thinking of seating around 12 ft or so.?
post #1724 of 2609
Screen size preference differs a lot between people - I'm at 12' from a 136" wide screen, and love it.
post #1725 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraden32 View Post

Seating can go back as far as needed. But I'm limited to height and width. I can get a wider screen by going 2.35. But my 16:9 image will suffer.

Thinking of seating around 12 ft or so.?

I am 9'-6" from the 107" wide. Try it at 12', you may be perfectly happy at that distance. You can always move closer later on.
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post #1726 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

I'm beginning to wish I went scope due to the height of 16:9 but I think i'll manage in the end

I think you will be able to manage. Now quit trying to give us screen size envy.
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post #1727 of 2609
My first row is about 11ft from a 120 inch wide 2.35 XD and I love it. Sony VW1000 for that distance helps too
post #1728 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraden32 View Post

Seating can go back as far as needed. But I'm limited to height and width. I can get a wider screen by going 2.35. But my 16:9 image will suffer.

Thinking of seating around 12 ft or so.?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

I am 10'-6" from the 107" wide. Try it at 12", you may be perfectly happy at that distance. You can always move closer later on.

As Mike say's you can always move closer. If your 16:9 becomes smaller when you go for a 2.35 screen, just move the seats closer so they are at the same relative distance as a screen height to distance ratio.

For example, if your current 16:9 screen height to seating distance is around 3 to 1 (screen height is 4 feet high and you sit 12 feet back), and your new 2.35 screen is 3.5 feet tall, just move your seats so they are 10.5 feet back. That way the 16:9 image will look the same size visually as it did before from 12 feet back, except now, scope movies will feel a lot more immersive, as you've retained the same 3:1 seating ratio (you can go closer if you like, experiment to see what works best for you).

That's exactly what I did when I went from a 7 foot wide 16:9 screen to an 8 foot wide scope screen. From 12 feet back 16:9 did look small, but from 10.5 feet back it looked just fine, but scope movies were just so much more immersive and had an even greater visual impact.

Seating distance is very important when going for a 2.35 screen so that 16:9 isn't compromised.

Gary
post #1729 of 2609
Great info guys.....Thanks!
post #1730 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lightfoot View Post

As Mike say's you can always move closer. If your 16:9 becomes smaller when you go for a 2.35 screen, just move the seats closer so they are at the same relative distance as a screen height to distance ratio.

I couldn't get comfortable with a 2.35:1 size that supported the level of immersion I wanted for 16:9 - so went with more of a Constant Image Height setup, at 2.125:1 - a road less traveled, but I'm happy with it.
post #1731 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

I couldn't get comfortable with a 2.35:1 size that supported the level of immersion I wanted for 16:9 - so went with more of a Constant Image Height setup, at 2.125:1 - a road less traveled, but I'm happy with it.


Are you cropping the sides of the image when watching scope? How are you constant height with a 2.125:1 aspect ratio screen?
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post #1732 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

Here's a great CIH installation over in the Dedicated HT forum:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1411861


The only thing I'd suggest is to try and darken down more surfaces, but this is a great example of a very well thought out application and top performing equipment.


Cheers,

Chris


Thanks Chris. Agree I should darken the walls & ceiling, Darn WAF biggrin.gif We love the screen. Guests who demo love the screen. Picture is wonderful. Definitely as advertised biggrin.gif

Also, thanks again for the tips on the Imax reveal. My blue LEDs do not appear to be as bright as those shown on your website but overall I'm happy with the outcome!
Edited by quack724 - 6/6/12 at 2:10pm
post #1733 of 2609
IMG_0135.JPG 2740k .JPG file

Well it's big and it's here. Will install on the weekend. smile.gif
post #1734 of 2609
I am now going to have to place my Paradigm S8s and C5 Center very close to the back wall behind my screen, any suggestions as to anything I can do to help with the sound like maybe place a bass trap behind each speaker or at least accoustic panels?

John
post #1735 of 2609
2" fiberglass panels behind the speakers hsould work fine
post #1736 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

IMG_0135.JPG 2740k .JPG file
Well it's big and it's here. Will install on the weekend. smile.gif

That is one loooong box!
post #1737 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

I am now going to have to place my Paradigm S8s and C5 Center very close to the back wall behind my screen, any suggestions as to anything I can do to help with the sound like maybe place a bass trap behind each speaker or at least accoustic panels?
John

I think the latest is 1" JM linacoustic, 4-6mil plastic, 1" JM linacoustic

For the corners, triangle cut pieces of OC70x or an equivalent product...which products I'm not sure but I am researching since I can't find OC70x locally
post #1738 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

I think the latest is 1" JM linacoustic, 4-6mil plastic, 1" JM linacoustic
For the corners, triangle cut pieces of OC70x or an equivalent product...which products I'm not sure but I am researching since I can't find OC70x locally

Larry,

You mean layered as in 1" JM Linacoustic first over the drywall THEN 4-6 mil plastic over it and THEN 1" Linacoustic again over the plastic as in a sandwich? confused.gif

Can you direct me to where this technique was discussed?

...Glenn smile.gif
Edited by Glenn Baumann - 6/7/12 at 9:59am
post #1739 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baumann View Post

Larry,
You mean layered as in 1" JM Linacoustic first over the drywall THEN 4-6 mil plastic over it and THEN 1" Linacoustic again over the plastic as in a sandwich? confused.gif
Can you direct me to where this technique was discussed?
...Glenn smile.gif

Yes that is exactly what I meant. I believe this is something Dennis Erskine has recommended so that is usually good information. I can't remember which thread I read it in but I have seen it more than once. I'm not at my stage design yet so I haven't put the time in yet but once I do I plan to verify everything
post #1740 of 2609
^^
Have read this multiple times lately too in several threads that DE designed.
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