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The official SeymourAV center stage screen thread! - Page 67

post #1981 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

I'd suggest heading over to the VistaCurve page here. Select the pdf on the right side of the "VistaCurve frame profile, ..." in whichever size you're interested in. They have top-down views which show the locations of the wall brackets.

Cheers,
Chris
Thanks Chris. Does the premiere frame have the same locations as the vista curv frame?
post #1982 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by blastermaster View Post

Just finished my screen and I really liked how it turned out. I haven't calibrated my pj yet, but I used the reference setting and I think it looks pretty damn good:

I'm using an Optoma HD3300 set on eco mode and reference setting with a Darbeevision Darblet set at HD50. Anamorphic lens is a budget HTB lens with CA correction element.

Looks good.

What size is your screen? XD? And how far is you primary seating?
post #1983 of 2609
Quote:
Looks good.

What size is your screen? XD? And how far is you primary seating?

Thanks. It is ~138" diagonal using the XD material. I am sitting 13' away and the picture is phenomenal. I haven't yet watched a 3D movie on it, but I'm really looking forward to the extra brightness the screen material will provide.
post #1984 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

For this round of testing and comparison purposes:

Enlightor-4K: unbenchmarked gain: 0.77, color temp: 6452, R: 101.2%, G: 99.0%, B: 99.8%
XD: unbenchmarked gain: 1.00, color temp: 6596, R: 98.9%, G: 100.0%, B: 101.1%

Cheers,
Chris

Thanks
post #1985 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by SKINSnCANES View Post

Thanks Chris. Does the premiere frame have the same locations as the vista curv frame?

No, the Premier frame has an 8' bar across the top which can be mounted in many locations. Also, the bottom features two reversible L-brackets 117" apart, attaching into the lower frame into one of three sets of threaded holes.

Cheers,
Chris
post #1986 of 2609
A note on texture. We recently picked up some theater seating on Craiglist. Because of their size, I ended up having to put them about 2 feet closer to the screen than I had planed, 9-10 feet away, instead of 11-12. I was worried that the weave on the Centerstage XD would be visible or distracting. However, we watched Casino Royale last night. While it is quite possible that there were places that I might have seen the weave if I was look for it, I just spent the movie enjoying the picture quality and never once noticed the texture.
post #1987 of 2609
I just installed a Seymour AV 130" AT electric 2:35 screen with power vertical masking and XD screen material. I sit approximately 11feet from the screen and it looks awesome. I am running a Panasonic Pt-ae8000u at a throw of 14 feet. The screen drops down in front of a 65" plasma. The picture is plenty bright even in 3d. I cannot see the weave at this distance. Chris was awesome to deal with and highly recommended. If you are looking for an awesome screen at a great price I would highly recommend talking to Chris.
Rick
post #1988 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickR15 View Post

I just installed a Seymour AV 130" AT electric 2:35 screen with power vertical masking and XD screen material. I sit approximately 11feet from the screen and it looks awesome. I am running a Panasonic Pt-ae8000u at a throw of 14 feet. The screen drops down in front of a 65" plasma. The picture is plenty bright even in 3d. I cannot see the weave at this distance. Chris was awesome to deal with and highly recommended. If you are looking for an awesome screen at a great price I would highly recommend talking to Chris.
Rick

I am considering their dual-roller CIW screen. Can you tell me a bit about your installation -- how much space is required past each end of the casing? Did you happen to have ceiling joists in the right places, or did you have to engineer something?

What mechanism did you choose for control? Are the two rollers independently controlled?

Chris has been very patient with me, answering lots of questions via email and PM, but I'm eager to hear from a user who has installed one of these screens.
post #1989 of 2609
Pictures ^^^?
post #1990 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ View Post

I am considering their dual-roller CIW screen. Can you tell me a bit about your installation -- how much space is required past each end of the casing? Did you happen to have ceiling joists in the right places, or did you have to engineer something?

What mechanism did you choose for control? Are the two rollers independently controlled?

Chris has been very patient with me, answering lots of questions via email and PM, but I'm eager to hear from a user who has installed one of these screens.

I have a low suspended ceiling in my basement with a duct that I had to deal with. The screen uses the same mounting system as the single roller screens. The difference is there are two mounting rails instead of one. The rails can be adjusted. I didn’t mount my screen from the edges. I used 4 pieces of 1/4 inch threaded rod. I attached the rods to the rails approx. 30" in from each end. My joists run parallel to the screen frame. I used two pieces of perforated angle iron like they use for mounting garage doors. I fastened the angle iron across two joists. The threaded rod was run up through the drop ceiling and attached to the angle iron. This way I was able to adjust the screen perfectly left to right and forward and back. The wiring comes out the left side of the case end if you’re facing the screen. You have to allow a couple inches for that. There are two roller systems and they are independent. The Panasonic projector has two dc triggers, so I used those to control the screen and masking rollers. I ordered the two motor controllers and trigger modules from Chris with the screen. It works very slick with the auto zoom function. It’s all automatic. I called Chris a few times and he was very helpful. Probably the best customer service I have ever experienced. I live in northern Canada and Chris made sure the screen got to me safe and sound. It took about a month from the time I ordered it till I received it. I was told this in advance though and there were no surprises. I am very Happy!
post #1991 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbraden32 View Post

Pictures ^^^?


I will try and get some pictures up soon. What is the easiest way to do that?
post #1992 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickR15 View Post

I have a low suspended ceiling in my basement with a duct that I had to deal with. The screen uses the same mounting system as the single roller screens. The difference is there are two mounting rails instead of one. The rails can be adjusted. I didn’t mount my screen from the edges. I used 4 pieces of 1/4 inch threaded rod. I attached the rods to the rails approx. 30" in from each end. My joists run parallel to the screen frame. I used two pieces of perforated angle iron like they use for mounting garage doors. I fastened the angle iron across two joists. The threaded rod was run up through the drop ceiling and attached to the angle iron. This way I was able to adjust the screen perfectly left to right and forward and back. The wiring comes out the left side of the case end if you’re facing the screen. You have to allow a couple inches for that.

That sounds different than how Chris explained it to me. Here's what he said:

"The picture (at the bottom here) shows that on each side are two DIN rails. Pretighten them to the case, lift it to the ceiling, and bolt to the ceiling."

Which sounds to me like each DIN rail sticks out beyond each end of the case. How else could I bolt the rails to the ceiling if they're already attached to the case? But maybe I misunderstood.

The instructions for the single DIN system explain how to attach the case to the mounted rail, but I don't understand how that method could work with two parallel rails.

I am trying to mount this as close as possible to the crown molding in my living room, so I need to understand all this in order to buy the correct size.
post #1993 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ View Post

That sounds different than how Chris explained it to me. Here's what he said:

"The picture (at the bottom here) shows that on each side are two DIN rails. Pretighten them to the case, lift it to the ceiling, and bolt to the ceiling."

Which sounds to me like each DIN rail sticks out beyond each end of the case. How else could I bolt the rails to the ceiling if they're already attached to the case? But maybe I misunderstood.

The instructions for the single DIN system explain how to attach the case to the mounted rail, but I don't understand how that method could work with two parallel rails.

I am trying to mount this as close as possible to the crown molding in my living room, so I need to understand all this in order to buy the correct size.

That picture is exactly what mine is like. There are four 4 foot sections of Din rail. One is at each corner. They can be adjusted in or out as needed. Since I had a drop sealing, I couldn’t attach the rails directly to the ceiling. That is why I used the threaded rod as described earlier.
post #1994 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickR15 View Post

That picture is exactly what mine is like. There are four 4 foot sections of Din rail. One is at each corner. They can be adjusted in or out as needed. Since I had a drop sealing, I couldn’t attach the rails directly to the ceiling. That is why I used the threaded rod as described earlier.

Thanks for your patience and explanations. I'm still having trouble picturing this. Did you install the rails first, and then mount the case to them? So that means the rails do not extend beyond the ends of the case at all?
post #1995 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by blastermaster View Post

Just got my XD material today. I had a buddy come over and help me install it. I have a curved screen and I am using the Screen Tight method. It went relatively well. I thought it would be a good idea to install the screen initially on the outside channel. It turned out to be a good idea, as there were some very minor wrinkles that disappeared when running spline material through the inner channel. What I didn't anticipate was how much we pulled the top and bottom of the screen together. Initially there was some definite sag, but when I added my support braces, it was actually too tight, and the spline started to come out on the bottom. So, we removed the supports, drank some beer and watched the first part of Skyfall. I decided it would be a good idea to leave everything "as is" for a week or two and see if there is any relaxing of the material. Then, I will add my braces back into the equation. If the relaxation of the material isn't as much as expected no biggie - I can hack off a bit of the supports to the point where they won't be pulling out the spline material. Currently there are a few very minor wrinkles at the edges that need to be attended to which amazingly aren't even noticeable while watching a movie. As it stands, the PQ is head and shoulders above my old screen - it is bright, crisp and the sound comes through it loud and clear.

If I were to do it again, I'd probably go with the grommets/o-ring method, but hey, I already had the screen tight installed, so...

I'll post pics in a bit here. Damnit Skyfall does look great on it, though!

Nice to see that people are still using the spline method. That is what I did to retrofit a screen for XD fabric back in 2009. I was listed on here as mjg100 then. smile.gif I see Chris still has the link up under his DIY section. This method will get the screen tighter than a drum and it stays that way for years.
Reply
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post #1996 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottJ View Post

Thanks for your patience and explanations. I'm still having trouble picturing this. Did you install the rails first, and then mount the case to them? So that means the rails do not extend beyond the ends of the case at all?

I removed each rail to attach a threaded rod to it. I adjusted my din rails so that they did not extend past the case. You can adjust them however you like. The rails and threaded rod were then fastened to the screen case and then the screen was lifted up to the drop ceiling. I had two guys hold up the screen while I attached the threaded rods to the angle iron previously attached to the joists. (I drilled out the ceiling tiles and put them in place before lifting the screen. I then removed the tiles beside them so that I could fasten the rods to the joist brackets.)The screen case is mounted about 8” below the drop ceiling. The rods run threw 4 small holes in the drop ceiling. It looks very clean and the screen looks like it’s just floating there. It’s similar to being supported by cables I guess.
post #1997 of 2609


Hello chris

I made my screen with your screen xd but i see
The fibers are stuck to two places and I have therefore two small hole on the screen
Edited by mxav - 3/8/13 at 1:37am
post #1998 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickR15 View Post

I removed each rail to attach a threaded rod to it. I adjusted my din rails so that they did not extend past the case. You can adjust them however you like. The rails and threaded rod were then fastened to the screen case and then the screen was lifted up to the drop ceiling. I had two guys hold up the screen while I attached the threaded rods to the angle iron previously attached to the joists..

Oooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh now I get it!

I think I will have a little more trouble since I'm fastening directly to the ceiling, but since I'll need to engineer something anyway (since there's no joists where I need them), I'm pretty sure I can make it work.
post #1999 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by mxav View Post


Hello chris

I made my screen with your screen xd but i see
The fibers are stuck to two places and I have therefore two small hole on the screen

Hi Xavier -

We can send a replacement. I've replied to your email, so please check your inbox.

Cheers,
Chris
post #2000 of 2609
Hey All, I have posted questions here some time ago, but my plans have changed a bit and it's time to pull the trigger so..here goes. I am going to be purchasing my Seymour screen now, and am trying to decide on the XD vs 4K. I am all but certain that I will be using the Display Development HD5 for a pj. It is said to have 6k lumens pre calibration and be a great piece. It is a 2k pj, so no 4k yet, as the cost of a 4k pj that can light up the screen I want is about as much as a home. I am going with the 200" wide Seymour, but need to decide which one. My room has three rows. Measurements to the eyes of viewers as follows...first row @ 13ft, second row @ 20ft adn third row @27ft (roughly). Because of the screen size and potential upgrade path a few yrs down the road, i initiall wanted to EN4K, but my struggles to find an affordable pj that can light up 200" of width have made me cautious. By all accounts, the DD should be able to handle the lower gain of the 4k screen, but I don't want to make a mistake here. I know the front row is far enough away for the XD, but still can't help but feel like the 4k will be better...any help??
post #2001 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopShop1 View Post

Hey All, I have posted questions here some time ago, but my plans have changed a bit and it's time to pull the trigger so..here goes. I am going to be purchasing my Seymour screen now, and am trying to decide on the XD vs 4K. I am all but certain that I will be using the Display Development HD5 for a pj. It is said to have 6k lumens pre calibration and be a great piece. It is a 2k pj, so no 4k yet, as the cost of a 4k pj that can light up the screen I want is about as much as a home. I am going with the 200" wide Seymour, but need to decide which one. My room has three rows. Measurements to the eyes of viewers as follows...first row @ 13ft, second row @ 20ft adn third row @27ft (roughly). Because of the screen size and potential upgrade path a few yrs down the road, i initiall wanted to EN4K, but my struggles to find an affordable pj that can light up 200" of width have made me cautious. By all accounts, the DD should be able to handle the lower gain of the 4k screen, but I don't want to make a mistake here. I know the front row is far enough away for the XD, but still can't help but feel like the 4k will be better...any help??


Take my comments with a grain of salt, as it’s easy for me to spend your money smile.gif.

I have large samples of the XD and EN4K on my wall... at 13ft the XD weave is not be noticeable.
Throwing a 200" screen will make the pixels large enough that the EN4K * I don't think* will give any advantage
More gain on the XD for that big screen
XD will cost way less than the EN4K

I'd go with XD
post #2002 of 2609
Quote:
The next-gen woven Center Stage XD screen fabric has the highest gain on the market (1.2), providing you with a sharp, bright image from edge to edge at 4K resolutions

ChopShop, this is straight from the website. I would save your beans for other AV stuff and know that you are going to get a nice, bright screen that's 4k compatible by getting the XD. I love mine.
post #2003 of 2609
Good points guys, and thank you for your insight on it. I have read some of those statements on the site, etc, just wanted to be sure that noone thought that there was a reason to need the en4k with the setup I'm planning. The XD is certainly a bargain at the price, I can get it, my processor and oppo for the price of the en4k screen.
post #2004 of 2609
We use both and I definitely prefer the 4K. The XD does have a little more gain but the surface isn't as smooth and the difference is noticeable to me. For most people in the under $5K range I'd tell them to spend more on the projector and less on the screen and go with the XD. But as you start going with higher budgets you might as well get that extra performance from a quality screen. I don't know what the price of an HD5 is but if it is anywhere near the HD4 you are not in the budget range of projectors. Is the HD5 shipping yet? Get some samples and check them out. See which you like, maybe the gain is more important to you with that screen size or maybe you prefer the picture quality of the 4k. But, don't skimp on a screen when you are spending that type of money. You'll be much happier in the long run if you know you got the screen that better suited your purpose. Give Chris a call he'll help you out.
post #2005 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobL View Post

We use both and I definitely prefer the 4K. The XD does have a little more gain but the surface isn't as smooth and the difference is noticeable to me. For most people in the under $5K range I'd tell them to spend more on the projector and less on the screen and go with the XD. But as you start going with higher budgets you might as well get that extra performance from a quality screen. I don't know what the price of an HD5 is but if it is anywhere near the HD4 you are not in the budget range of projectors. Is the HD5 shipping yet? Get some samples and check them out. See which you like, maybe the gain is more important to you with that screen size or maybe you prefer the picture quality of the 4k. But, don't skimp on a screen when you are spending that type of money. You'll be much happier in the long run if you know you got the screen that better suited your purpose. Give Chris a call he'll help you out.

Thanks Bob. The HD5 is deff not budget, but for the class it's in, it's an outright bargain! From what I would gather, one would need to spend damn close to six figures to improve on its performance...heck, I'vs been told by a few that I'd need to spend upwards of $75k with some of the other well known manufacturers to get the same performance. I am still going to fly out to see one in the next couple of weeks before I buy it, but so far the details I have gathered in my research look outstanding. 6k lumens, great contrast, veriscope, etc. I am still trying to figure out which model proejctiondesign it coincides with but am coming up cold. Hopefully I wil hear back from Jim soon with more details.

If the HD5 performs like they say, the 4k will be a no brainer, I think, as it should have enough claibrated lumens to get me over 20ftl, even on the .85 gain screen. I am a real knit-picker too, so based on the few I have heard that say they can see the texture in the XD from a decent distance, I'd say it's the right choice. The price on either screen is fantastic, so it's not really about that, but moreso the final assessment of the HD5 and it's true light output capabilities will be the deciding factor.
post #2006 of 2609
It is definitely a good value for its performance and with Jim involved I am sure it will perform. Jim taught one of my ISF classes many years ago. I think it is smart move to fly out and demo it. It is not about seeing the texture as much as that the pixels are less distorted on it. It might not be noticeable depending on your seating distance. Jim might have some suggestions for you too. Every screen has their trade offs. Also, don't forget to factors in bulb life when calculating ft/l, you want to have good brightness throughout the bulb's life or factor buying bulbs more often. I'm sure if you are going to this extent you are not going to watch this in brighter less accurate modes. I'm not sure if the HD5 offers modes like the less expensive projectors do. Something to consider anyway. Jim will definitely steer you in the right direction.
post #2007 of 2609
Yeah, I hope ot hear back from him soon. It will help me out a great deal to pick his brain some more.

I wish the specs were up on the DD website, I just can't remember the exact details.

I certainly want as many hours as I can out of the bulb. I feel like if I can start with mid 20sftl, even right before replacement I should still be in the high teens. I'd say I like it a bit brighter than average. Too bright and my eyes hurt, too dima nd it feels "cheap looking". I have a local shop here that has a Runco unit on there 12 ft screen and it measures about 13ftl. It's a bit dimmer than I would like, but not worlds away.
post #2008 of 2609
Usually bulbs lose 50-60% or more throughout their lifespan. They lose 20-25% fairly quickly then gradually decrease over that but this depends on the bulb. It also depends on how manufacturers rate bulbs. I've seen bulbs rated for 1500 hours go 5000 hours but the manufacture rated at 1500 hours to ensure proper brightness and color uniformity. Most manufacturers (probably not Jim) do the opposite and rate their bulbs until they die with no concern about performance. I'm sure he'll go over it with you.
post #2009 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

Hi Xavier -

We can send a replacement. I've replied to your email, so please check your inbox.

Cheers,
Chris

thanks chris.

waiting for the replacement.

i tested the screen, except this conception default, very good screen !
better than my ex lumene movie palace no transonore !
post #2010 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobL View Post

Usually bulbs lose 50-60% or more throughout their lifespan. They lose 20-25% fairly quickly then gradually decrease over that but this depends on the bulb. It also depends on how manufacturers rate bulbs. I've seen bulbs rated for 1500 hours go 5000 hours but the manufacture rated at 1500 hours to ensure proper brightness and color uniformity. Most manufacturers (probably not Jim) do the opposite and rate their bulbs until they die with no concern about performance. I'm sure he'll go over it with you.

Wow, I hadn't realized it would be that much. I thought I'd be dealing with 30-40%. That's something else to consider. I called Jim Burns last week, but haven't heard back from him on the PJ. Hopefully I will soon.
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