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The official SeymourAV center stage screen thread! - Page 72

post #2131 of 2609
*woodworker over the last 25+ years

To prevent wood shrinkage or expansion, buy ONLY kiln dried wood (preferably something very tight grained and hard, like maple) and place it in the area of the theater room for several weeks to a month to equalize to the surrounding humidity level. Kiln dried wood can often come it at 6-8% moisture and unless your in the desert, your relative humdity will likely be double that ...easily. The boards will absorb the moisture in the air and equalize. After that process, there is little change of expansion/shrinkage.

In most cases, kiln dried wood has already sit in the local geographic location long enough to qualize, but there is a reason why some retailers wrap the nicer boards in plastic!
post #2132 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoSport View Post

*woodworker over the last 25+ years

To prevent wood shrinkage or expansion, buy ONLY kiln dried wood (preferably something very tight grained and hard, like maple) and place it in the area of the theater room for several weeks to a month to equalize to the surrounding humidity level. Kiln dried wood can often come it at 6-8% moisture and unless your in the desert, your relative humdity will likely be double that ...easily. The boards will absorb the moisture in the air and equalize. After that process, there is little change of expansion/shrinkage.

In most cases, kiln dried wood has already sit in the local geographic location long enough to qualize, but there is a reason why some retailers wrap the nicer boards in plastic!

You are correct about equalizing, but you are in a more tempeered climate which helps. Here in Wisconsin our temp can swing 140 deg or more from some to winter and humidity from 0 to 100%. Depending on heating and cooling system in the house they can be alot of expantion and contraction of materials.

But yes you are exactly right that you need to climatize your wood before use, but I wouls also not make a frame that I didn't have some easy way to retension the screen.

Oh and I been selling wood for 25+ years too, so that is 50 years between us, ok I feel old now eek.gif
post #2133 of 2609
T
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

We recommend the inside surface of the roll, as that's the side that's inspected for blemishes. Both sides spec the same, so if you happen to prefer the outer surface you can use it. The inside texture pattern is what's designed for use in retractables, so for your fixed frame screen it doesn't matter.

Cheers,
Chris
Thanks!
I chose the inside of the role and it looks great.
post #2134 of 2609
Has there been any new news on masking for the older drop down screens? (2.35 screen to mask to 1.78 so masking for the sides) I know the new ones have it but would love to get something i can put up and take down (like some kinda kit).
post #2135 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reference_head View Post

Has there been any new news on masking for the older drop down screens? (2.35 screen to mask to 1.78 so masking for the sides) I know the new ones have it but would love to get something i can put up and take down (like some kinda kit).

No news yet. We're currently trying to get some new product going for CEDIA, but unfortunately it doesn't include a retrofit masking kit. I did get in some new smaller diameter rollers and motors to start playing with, though.

Cheers,
Chris
post #2136 of 2609
Chris

How much does the masking affect the left and right speakers ? Spl? I think it's -2 through the screen and then how much when the panels are covering in 16.9?
post #2137 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7channelfreak View Post

Chris

How much does the masking affect the left and right speakers ? Spl? I think it's -2 through the screen and then how much when the panels are covering in 16.9?

About 0.3 to 0.5dB attenuation. The screen is about 1.5 average.

Cheers,
Chris
post #2138 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

About 0.3 to 0.5dB attenuation. The screen is about 1.5 average.

Cheers,
Chris


Thank you. Is this the same with the ENK 4k? I should have been more specific. I'll have about a 9 ft viewing distance.
post #2139 of 2609
Double post
post #2140 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7channelfreak View Post

Thank you. Is this the same with the ENK 4k? I should have been more specific. I'll have about a 9 ft viewing distance.

The EN-4K has a little more overall attenuation of about 2dB because it shifts the frequency effect up past 30kHz. Because of that, the EN-4k is unique that in that it does not have any appreciable frequency or tonal effect. While reducing your front soundstage SPL by 2dB is more audible than the slight HF rolloff of the the XD, it's more correctable. Calibrate your channel levels and you've completely corrected for the screen. The XD is a step more conventional: a little less level compensation but a bit of HF rolloff. Most XD folks don't do any EQ unless their room errs on the side of sounding dark to begin with. Both materials are used to master audio at leading film production studios.

Cheers,
Chris
post #2141 of 2609
Chris,

Would the 16:9 curved screen (say 120 inch wide) have the pincushion/barrel effect without a A-lens? (I am probably going to end up using the Sony hw50es)
post #2142 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Chris,

Would the 16:9 curved screen (say 120 inch wide) have the pincushion/barrel effect without a A-lens? (I am probably going to end up using the Sony hw50es)

The reason of a curved screen is the A-Lens. If you are not going to use one get a flat screen.
post #2143 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

The reason of a curved screen is the A-Lens. If you are not going to use one get a flat screen.

That was probably the 'initial' reason to fix the A-Lens' issues..

But there's another reason for having Curved screen.. ie, more immerssive experience. IMax does it..
post #2144 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

That was probably the 'initial' reason to fix the A-Lens' issues..

But there's another reason for having Curved screen.. ie, more immerssive experience. IMax does it..

Ya that is a completely different thing. The screen darn near wraps around you, you are not going to come close to that feel with a home theater screen. Their only what, 6" of curve in a 120" screen, you won't even notice it when seated.
post #2145 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

Ya that is a completely different thing. The screen darn near wraps around you, you are not going to come close to that feel with a home theater screen. Their only what, 6" of curve in a 120" screen, you won't even notice it when seated.

Here's a quote from Imax:
Quote:
And when this image is projected onto an IMAX® screen, which isn’t simply larger; but also curved, taller for its width and positioned closer to the audience than ordinary screens, the result provides you with a full panoramic view that fills your peripheral vision more than any other cinematic experience. That’s why, when you watch an IMAX movie, it feels like it’s all around you.

Personally, I think directors should start making movies in the 16:9 ratio, because when you have a huge floor to ceiling/side to side screen, you'll then get closer to the Imax experience. The Scope aspect ratio is for Old Cinemas.. it gives you a panoramic view (side to side only), and with today's resolution getting higher, ie, 4k and beyond, we can sit closer and closer to the screens, which means you want to actually have the screen envelope you all around (both sideways and up/down)...

I am going to try the curve 16:9 version, maybe 11 feet wide, and then sit about 11 feet from it.. that will give me a total immerssive view.

BTW: The real Imax screen isn't all that curve either...

Here's a great video by Imax explaining their screen curve, and angles:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXsRpy7yHfs&list=PLf_S55hJSbGGP3_6-MEr-HDfmrYHG62Wm&index=1
Edited by coolgeek - 7/29/13 at 8:39am
post #2146 of 2609
I have been to a couple of I-Max and have been not been impressed with either, I have a much better picture with my home theater.

I still don't see why you want a curved screen, you are going to have pincushin if not using a lense. The projectors are not designed to shot on a curve screen confused.gif

Not to mension I don't know how well it will focus when the sides of the screen are closer then the center. Anyone ever try a curve screen with a regular projector?
post #2147 of 2609
However, I still need some answers to using 16:9 curved screens.

For instance, would the projected image go outside the borders of the screen (at the edge?). Do you need some special adjustments? (I am talking about while playing 16:9 aspect movies).
post #2148 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolgeek View Post

Chris,

Would the 16:9 curved screen (say 120 inch wide) have the pincushion/barrel effect without a A-lens? (I am probably going to end up using the Sony hw50es)

No, we chose the radius of the curved screens to be just shallow enough to not cause appreciable barrel distortion if you're not using a lens. There are several folks using the curved frame without a lens that could chime in if they found the overscanning unreasonable, but from what we've heard it's plenty sweet.

Cheers,
Chris
post #2149 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

No, we chose the radius of the curved screens to be just shallow enough to not cause appreciable barrel distortion if you're not using a lens. There are several folks using the curved frame without a lens that could chime in if they found the overscanning unreasonable, but from what we've heard it's plenty sweet.

Cheers,
Chris

Chris, he is talking about a curved 16:9 screen, not shooting a 16:9 image onto a curved scope screen. If you have a large curved 16:9 screen, you will have barrel distortion. In other words the image will dip down in the middle bottom and hump up, middle top. Now just like people do with pincushion, you will be able to over shoot the image and lose the barrel distortion in the screen border. This is fine if the barrel distortion is not too great, but that depends a lot on screen size and throw distance. If you want to see about how much this will be. Decide on the amount of curve you are going to use. Lets say for example you decide you want the screen to have 8" of curve. Place a long 2x4 or other board so that it is 8" in front of your screen. Place the board so that the bottom of the image can be placed on the board. Position the image to give you the width that you want. Measure the distance from the floor to the image. Remove the board and let the image shine on the screen located 8" behind the board. Now measure from the bottom center of the image to the floor. The difference in the two measurements is the barrel distortion.
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post #2150 of 2609
Does anyone have any pictures or videos of the tab tensioned AT screen with the 16:9 masking? I've been unable to find good pictures of it. I am very tempted to add the masking feature for the 11 feet wide 2.37 screen I am planning. It's a premium for sure, but I am nervous I'll regret not adding it.
post #2151 of 2609
I ordered one and am waiting for delivery, but probably won't have it up for a few weeks at least.

B.
post #2152 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Chris, he is talking about a curved 16:9 screen, not shooting a 16:9 image onto a curved scope screen. If you have a large curved 16:9 screen, you will have barrel distortion. In other words the image will dip down in the middle bottom and hump up, middle top. Now just like people do with pincushion, you will be able to over shoot the image and lose the barrel distortion in the screen border. This is fine if the barrel distortion is not too great, but that depends a lot on screen size and throw distance. If you want to see about how much this will be. Decide on the amount of curve you are going to use. Lets say for example you decide you want the screen to have 8" of curve. Place a long 2x4 or other board so that it is 8" in front of your screen. Place the board so that the bottom of the image can be placed on the board. Position the image to give you the width that you want. Measure the distance from the floor to the image. Remove the board and let the image shine on the screen located 8" behind the board. Now measure from the bottom center of the image to the floor. The difference in the two measurements is the barrel distortion.

For a curved, 120" wide screen there would be 4.6" of depth to the curvature. He can replicate this using your technique and 4.6" of depth difference to measure the barrel distortion.

Cheers,
Chris
post #2153 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by chriscmore View Post

For a curved, 120" wide screen there would be 4.6" of depth to the curvature. He can replicate this using your technique and 4.6" of depth difference to measure the barrel distortion.

Cheers,
Chris

Hi Chris,

I am really leaning towards getting either 10 feet wide/11 feet wide curved 16:9 screen. I am not very handy with 'measuring' and all.. i don't even have my projector yet.

Do you have experience or any of your clients have any experience with such a screen? Would i be fine with it?
post #2154 of 2609
It also would not be possible to shoot on a curved screen without an A lens, and have perfect/uniform focus across the screen - to what degree, and how objectionable it would be, you'd have to test of course. If it was me, I definitely would never do a curved screen without a lens.
post #2155 of 2609
will not need to mask the top. I used the 63 inch material for the screen section.j734
post #2156 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

It also would not be possible to shoot on a curved screen without an A lens, and have perfect/uniform focus across the screen - to what degree, and how objectionable it would be, you'd have to test of course. If it was me, I definitely would never do a curved screen without a lens.

Could the A-Lens be used for 16:9 movies?
post #2157 of 2609
So can u see the weave of the center stage xd at 11 ft. I have a benq 1070 in a small room 10x14 I was gonna place 3 front speakers behind the 120" screen. The 120" will pretty much fill 10ft wall end to end. U was gonna hang screen from ceiling 18" infront of speaker wall.
post #2158 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by bighvy76 View Post

So can u see the weave of the center stage xd at 11 ft. I have a benq 1070 in a small room 10x14 I was gonna place 3 front speakers behind the 120" screen. The 120" will pretty much fill 10ft wall end to end. U was gonna hang screen from ceiling 18" infront of speaker wall.

I don't think 11' viewing distance will be a problem. I have a sample of the XD material and my first row of seating is going to be about 10' away from a 130" wide screen. Just judging by the small sample of course but I could not see the weave until I was about 6 or 7 feet away and that was on a solid white test pattern. When viewing a movie it is probably harder to see than that. I think with a DLP projector you are more likely to see pixel structure than you are the weave in the material.
post #2159 of 2609
My front row eyes are about 10 1/2' from the 124" wide screen and I can't make out the weave at that distance when the projector is on, until I get to about 7-8 feet (straining to see it). With no picture and just the room lighting I can make out the weave at about 8-9 feet but it is a case of looking for it.
post #2160 of 2609
Quote:
Originally Posted by dropzone7 View Post

I don't think 11' viewing distance will be a problem. I have a sample of the XD material and my first row of seating is going to be about 10' away from a 130" wide screen. Just judging by the small sample of course but I could not see the weave until I was about 6 or 7 feet away and that was on a solid white test pattern. When viewing a movie it is probably harder to see than that. I think with a DLP projector you are more likely to see pixel structure than you are the weave in the material.
I'm 13.5' and the kids are 10.5' from a 150" diagonal Seymour XD and it looks great. smile.gif
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