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Sharp D42U/D43U owners thread (32D42U, 32D43U, 37D42U, 37D43U, C3742U)

post #1 of 611
Thread Starter 
Ladies and Gentlemen -

I hereby present the "everything we know about the Sharp D42U/D43U series" thread!


Up to now there have been 15 or more threads opened on this series about particular issues or questions, and a couple long threads about particular models. This threads will serve to collect that info in one place.

The direct link to this post is:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&#post10470627

This post is the result of me A) gathering all of the known info into one post, AND THEN B) keeping it up to date as various additional info comes in on this thread.

There is a dedicated thread for the Sharp LC-C3742U (sold at Costco): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=785366
I did not go through all 17-pages of that thread. There is a dedicated thread for the Sharp LC-32D42U: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=747082 I did not go through all 23 page of that thread.

IF YOU ARE REPLYING TO THIS POST THEN PLEASE FIRST SEE COMMENTS AT BOTTOM

GENERAL MODEL / SERIES INFO

Sharp model lines PDF
http://www.sharpusa.com/files/tel_do..._Line_0107.pdf

Sharp in Jan 2007 (CES) originally announced 46", 42", 37", 32" and 26" models in the 43U line, but apparently only the 37" and 32" models actually came to market in volume. The 26" (26D43U) does exist and an owner has posted on the thread. Does anyone have the other models? They don't appear on the Sharp web site anymore. Ditto for the 20" and 16" models in the 42U line.

[D42U] is pretty much identical to the D40 series. The only major change was the switching out a S-Video input for VGA. One poster wrote that "the 40U had that outsourced panel from Thailand. The 43U panel is made by Sharp. I had briefly a 40U and it much worse viewing angles than the 43U."

One poster has it from a "senior Sharp executive that the D42U and D43U set are electronically identical; the only difference is cosmetic."

Sharp LCC3242U sold at Costco is probably the same as the LC-32D42U, except Costco model has matte black bezel instead of gloss black bezel, and Costco model has silver stand instead of gloss black stand.

About the glossy black bezel (aka "piano black") on the regular Sharp models ... don't let that throw you off this model line because you're afraid of reflections. The bezel is CURVED (convex), not flat, so it's NOT like a mirrow and reflections really aren't that noticeable. I watch in a room with poor light control (windows behind me) and I haven't been bothered by the glossy black.

One poster wrote: the d40 models smaller than 37" use an orion panel. the 41 was made specifically with a sharp panel as a replacement for the 40. one of the things i've read is that if the tv says, "assembled in thailand" then it's an orion panel, if it says "assembled in mexico", then it's a sharp panel.

Sharp manual PDFs are here:
http://www.sharpusa.com/products/Typ...83,127,00.html
but don't show any of the 42U or 43U models! But Sharp Canada has them at:
http://www.sharp.ca/manuals/
Scroll down to desired LC-nnDnnU model; downloaded file is a Windows executable BUT CAN be unzipped in Mac or Linux with your favorite unzip program.
sharpusa.com will get around to updating their site eventually, they're always slow ...


CONSENSUS / SUMMARY OPINION

In general people are happy with this set. Blacks are great for LCD and approach plasma capabilities, SD looks good, tuner performance is good, most features you'd expect are there, etc.

It isn't pushing the envelope on LCD display technology (e.g. it doesn't have the most extreme contrast ratio), but that also seems to correlate to the fact that this forum is not clogged with people complaining about picture quality problems like in the 92U thread.

With this midrange set there are a few feature tradeoffs. You can't manually add digital channels, which is a problem for people who live between metro markets and turn their roof antennas. It can't zoom in on HD signals, a problem that is described further below. Channel changing is kind of slow. More minor problems described below.

But for everyone these have been minor complaints and, on balance, everyone seems happy enough with their set to keep it.



INPUTS

VGA input: any problems with XBox 360? The 92U had some problems there due to Sharp error with the EDID response.

Component input(s?): any problems with particular signals?

HDMI inputs: we have one report that it does NOT accept 1080p signals. Ideally the set would accept the signal and scale it down, but 1080p HDMI capability is still pretty rare in displays so it's not surprising that this mid-range set doesn't do it. Need someone to confirm!

There are some problems with "dot for dot" (aka 1:1) mode on HDMI inputs, described below in the Zoom/ARC section.

No side or front inputs!

You can NOT rename the inputs to your own custom text, but you can change the input names to one of 15 predefined labels; go to the desired input, then Menu -> Setup -> Input Label .


WALL MOUNTS

The Sharp 37D43U has a 200mm x 200m bolt pattern on the back.

Premier Mounts AM250: designed for 37-inch AND UP, this is slight overkill, but it provides for a very wide and tall mounting interface to the wall, which is good if you're concerned about spreading the load on your wall (i.e. you've got an old house and hitting old lathe and plaster instead of studs). Allows for TWO degrees of translational movement (no vertical translational movement) and 2 degrees of rotational movement (plus a tiny amount of roll leveling). Dual articulated arms. Excellent integration materials (e.g. every possible metric mounting screw) and good instructions; lacks printed template for drilling holes in wall. The part that attaches to the back of the display does not interfere with any of the cable connection points, although it does displace the little optional plastic cable control ring. Mount is very large but not visibile (barely) when viewing the display from the front.

If someone can provide a URL that describes the 6 degrees of freedom better than this Wikipedia page, please post to this thread:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Six_degrees_of_freedom

Other mounts that I considered are below. If you have one of these, give us your opinion of it with this set, including A) integration materials, B) instructions, C) whether it interferes with any cable connection mounts, and of course what kind of mobility it provides.

Sanus VMAA18

Peerless PLAV60

Peerless SP-850 -- uses 100mm x 200mm bolt pattern so requires adapter plate for use with this display


SOUND / VOLUME BEHAVIOR

In the opinion of this author, this set does not go loud enough. All of my previous sets went louder at the top end. High volume is useful when you want to just quickly turn it up loud while you (or your spouse, or whoever) briefly walk far from the TV to do something, but don't want to bother firing up the whole stupid stereo system.

The set does not remember the mute state through a power cycle. If you had it muted when you turned it off, it won't be muted when you turn it back on.

If the set is muted, turning the volume up OR DOWN will unmute it. Most TVs will NOT unmute if you have it muted and turn the volume down. This is desirable behavior because A) it gives you a fast way to turn it down, and B) after it's been muted a long time you may want to turn it up slowly (meaning turn it way down first) just in case the current environment calls for quieter sound (read: sleeping spouse).

Audio output -- rear terminals can be either fixed in volume, or variable per remote control, however in the latter case the TV's own speakers are turned off. This means it is impossible to have variable sound coming out of the TV speakers AND the rear audio jacks at the same time. This is a pain for people who have simple 2 channel home theater setups who like to use the TV speakers as the effective center channel.


VARIOUS DIMMING BEHAVIORS

OPC = Optical Picture Correction -- detect brightness of room via sensor on front of TV and modifies brightness accordingly. Menu -> Picture -> OPC controls whether it is enabled, and note that you can have it enabled but NOT display the green leaves when it's changing. To change the RANGE over which it modifies the brightness, go to Menu -> Picture -> Advanced -> Range of OPC .

Black level expansion messes with the black level of the display. This can be disabled via Picture -> Advanced -> Black

Dynamic contrast (Sharp calls it "enhance picture contrast") quickly changes the brightness of the backlight to make dark scenes darker and bright screnes brighter. [C3742U:]page 37 of your manual. You will see that Standard, Dynamic, and Dynamic Fixed modes have "enhanced picture contrast" as "ON". User, PC, game, and movie are all "OFF".

With OPC off and browsing TV, the channels will start dim and slowly brighten every time you switch stations. Annoying self adjusting contrast with OPC OFF can be worked around by leaving OPC ON with narrow margin.

Quote from an owner: The dimming I was experiencing was between channels. I didn't realize there was a difference, as soon as I saw the dimming between channels I turned the OPC On. Bottom line, by turning OPC On and setting it to a minimal range, and using User/Movie modes, I don't see dimming at any time.


LAG (DISPLAY DELAY FOR GAMERS)

Opinions conflict on the issue of lag (i.e. for gaming). Note that "lag" (e.g. 100's of milliseconds) is not the same as "response time" (6ms frame-to-frame refresh rate). Some see no lag, some do see lag of about 1/10 sec (100 ms). Some have even said that he had on one specific game (which doesn't make much sense). A third person later mentioned that there is lag playing Wii through composite cables, and another noted that the lag seemed to go away through component (on 480p); perhaps the deinterlace circuit introduces an excessive lag (more than the expected single frame required to get do the deinterlace). It could be that the TV introduces lag when converting from certain analog inputs, so it would be good to see some testing with exactly the same hardware and software but with different inputs in use. Since video settings are tied to inputs, it's possible that a particular setting on the Sharp is aggravating lag.


ZOOM / ARC BEHAVIOR

The set will zoom SD content, regardless of input.

The set will NOT zoom HD content. This is true regardless of input -- HD content via OTA ATSC or HDMI can not be zoomed.

Why would I want to zoom HD? Imagine that I was watching a 16:9 SD show via the digital ATSC tuner, that is playing the 16:9 content letterboxed within the 4:3 SD. You can ONLY change the view mode if the station is actually transmitting as digital SD. If they happen to be transmitting the SD upconverted to an HD signal, you are stuck with watching the 16:9 content, letterboxed within the 4:3 SD frame, sidebarred WITHIN the 16:9 panel limits! Wide black bars on all four sides! In the opinion of this post's author, this is the biggest problem of this model. There are certainly TVs that can do this zoom, it's just that as of late 2006 / early 2007, it's an esoteric feature. See this separate thread that I opened to discuss it: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=851136

If watching SD analog NTSC or S-video source, and probably composite video source, if you do the above zooming, you'll find that the top and bottom of the 16:9 letterboxed content is cropped out. I've measured it and would say it's about 2-3% at the top and bottom EACH, which may not sound like much, until you watch something with subtitles or a crawl in that 16:9 frame, and then you definitely notice it. With just regular video in that 16:9 frame it's barely good enough to watch. The very tops of heads are often cropped out.

If watching a component analog source, like from a progressive DVD player, there is no such cropping. It's perfect.

There is a dot-for-dot (aka 1:1) mode that works well for the PC input (VGA / DDB15). Dot-for-dot also works for HDMI inputs but only for some resolutions. The reports are that it works for 1360x768 from a PC via DVI to HDMI adapter, however it does NOT work at 1280x720 (720p) or 1920x1080 (1080i). It certainly does not work at 1080p since the set does not accept that mode via HDMI at all.


PROBLEMS / OTHER

Can't zoom HD signals as described above.

Tuner performance:
Switching from an analog/NTSC channel to an analog/NTSC channel takes 1 second.
Switching from an analog/NTSC channel to a digital/ATSC channel takes 3 seconds.
One can NOT quickly change channels, because it needs to lock on each one before moving on to the next one. It won't "buffer" channel change commands so ... you ... have ... to ... wait ... and ... press ... each ... time.

You can not manually add a digital channel! You have to repeat the full channel scan and hope that you hit ALL of your OTA ATSC channels. Ideally you'd be able to manually add as needed until the channel lineup was complete in the set, and THEN you'd adjust your antenna until they all came in. Also, some people are between two markets (e.g. San Franscisco and Sacremento) and aim their motorized antenna at the market they want to watch. In their case, the one-time scan and inability to manually add a channel is a severe problem.

The TV remembers the channels separately for the ATSC (air) and QAM (cable) tuners. So if you have both running into your set via an A-B coax switch, when you change the RF mode on the menu it'll go to the memorized channel plan for that RF mode.

One user measured some incoming ATSC signals with a spectrum analyzer with levels of -118 dBm and -116 dBm on two different distant stations, and the former was right on the edge of producing pictures. It seems that the threshold for the TV is a signal meter reading of 30, or about -120 dBm. At least he never saw a signal reading below 30, it would just drop to 0 as it lost the signal. We believe that typical good receivers have thresholds in the -130 dBm to -120 dBm range.

The general consensus is that the tuner performance is good enough. Some have seen slightly better, but once you get your antenna pointed right it seems to work just about as well as any other 2006-or-earlier tuner.

When fast-forwarding a videotape (VCR connected to composite input), the TV loses sync to the video and goes to black. I have to go back to playing at normal speed to see where I am in the tape. This stinks for fast-forwarding past commercials I'm hoping there's an advanced setting somewhere that I'll be able to tweak to get it to hold lock on the FF signal from the VCR. We watch a particular Show Daily (hint) and I really don't want to watch the ads for erection and fat loss pills over and over. Also, after the FF and going back to regular playback, the display can get stuck with jerky video and stuttering audio; pausing the videotape momentarily and then continuing playback seems to fix it.

Audio output / volume behavior described above.

An incompatibility between D43U TVs and the PlayStation3 causes TV flickering when the PS3 is both connected to the TV via HDMI, and connected to receiver using the digital optical out (& PS3 set to use digital optical out). The solution is to NOT use the digital optical out from the PS3. Instead, wire the system as PS3 to TV via HDMI, TV to receiver via Digital Optical Out. The TV will correctly bypass a Dolby Digital signal (even though it can't play it) from the PS3 through the TV, to the receiver. More info here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=15314436

Harmony remote controls: works with this set, except for some problems mapping the input selection buttons. Search thread for "Harmony" for more info.

Menu -> Option -> Program Title Display -- only works with digital/ATSC channels; does NOT display format of DTV signal (720p/1080i) even if tuned to an HD program

no PIP

no direct 1:1 pixel mapping for HDMI; it can do it for PC input, but not for the most common resolutions in HDMI

Menu -> Digital Setup -> Identification -- provides a mysterious 8-character code, like U0612345. What is this?

Image compensation: Fast vs Slow -- what is this actually doing? Accessed via Menu -> Picture -> Advanced -> I/P setting . It says it only works with 480i (rules out 480p, 720p and 1080i) so is this some sort of SD deinterlace feature?

Film mode: if it's on, does this mean that it will do 3:2 pulldown if it detects it, and off means that it will never do 3:2 pulldown no matter what?

Comment from thread: "Many of you, as I did, posted that the Film Mode was grayed out (as well as a couple of other selections) in the advanced menu. Turns out, you cannot adjust those settings when a signal is being fed into it. The solution? Turn off your cable box, blu-ray player, game system, etc, and THEN go to that input, and voila, you will be able to adjust those settings."

Are these advanced settings (or all Picture settings?) tied to particular input? So that when you change it, it's only being changed for that input?

Clicking / clapping sound problems:

[32D42U:] Something that has just started though is a clicking/tapping sound ever so often when you first turn the TV on. It'll happen starting at 20-30 seconds apart then gradually there will be more time between the taps and then it goes away. Not sure what it is. It's coming from the top right of the LCD and seems to stop after 15 or so minutes. Maybe it's just warming up?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=754562
Has this been seen with any 43U units or just 42U?

Power supply problem:

The TV should take no more than 9 seconds to show a picture after turning on the power. One poster had a defective power supply or something and it took up to 90 seconds before showing a picture after pressing Power.

PC has to be set at a fixed 1360X768 (right click desktop>my properties>settings).Then when you get an image center it using the auto synch on the TV. If you let your videocard "detect" a HDTV it may be outputting at 720p
(1280X720),then the TV is scaling the image to fill the screen resulting in a slightly blurred image

There is no ability to access and navigate the menu via the buttons on the top of the display itself; you must use the remote. If you lose the remote, or it breaks, you're screwed. A typical universal remote won't do some of the "weird" functions like "AV Mode". If you get a learning remote then you can program it to do everything, but of course then you need the original remote working in order to program the learning remote.

Can someone provide experience with the Logitech Harmony line and this set?


[37D43U:] The only time i cant get into all the features in the advance settings is when im using HDMI. If i use any other connection it works fine. It's pretty strange that i cant use everything in the advanced menu? My brother has the 62U model and he get all the menus in advance while using HDMI


Remember the only way to change AV modes and turn Dynamic Mode off is by a button inside a hidden door on the remote

an owner's review after 1.5 months:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&#post10372210



FIRMWARE LEVELS AND SERVICE MENU ACCESS

Sharp Aquos serial numbers tell you when the TV was made -- the first three digits are YMM, so a 612xxxxxx set was built in Dec 2006. Keep an eye out for 704, 705, etc and if you get a newer unit, check the firmware level! Note that this date refers to when the entire display was assembled (in Baja Mexico), not when the LCD panel was manufactured (in Japan)

Firmware levels:
service menu screenshots from a 92U model posted here
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post9675106
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...chmentid=74584
For example, a typical 703xxxxxx 43U would have:
MAIN Version = 1.14 (U 2006/12/14 1 A)
BOOT Version = CFE-D42U 1.00
Monitor version = 1.01

Watch for other firmware versions!

Update Feb 2011: here is a post that explains how to apply a firmware update:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post19901372

How to enter service menu (same as D62U and D92U):
* unplug TV from the wall.
* HOLD both input button and volume down button (on the top of the TV - not on the remote)
* plug TV back in; within about 5 seconds, the set will power up (without pressing the "on" button); keep holding the input and volume down buttons until a small "K" appears in a box on the left side of the screen
* release the two buttons and then simultaneously press the "Channel Down" and "Vol Down" buttons down at the same time (on the top of the TV - not on the remote)
* You will now see the first of 26 (!) pages of service menu info! Use the up and down arrow keys on the remote to navigate to the other pages. Pages numbers and names are in the upper left corner.
* once the service menu is displayed on the screen, you can get the screen to display different levels of solid grey by pressing the number keys on your remote. i.e. press "1" to get a relatively dark grey, 2 for a lighter grey, and so on up to 6 which is a bright white screen; keys 7, 8, and 9 don't appear to do anything. Press any number a second time to return to the service menu.
* do not change any settings in the Service Menu !!!
* the service menu will stay up as long as you want (it won't time out); to exit the Service Menu, turn off the TV.


TO PRINT JOURNALISTS AND REVIEW WRITERS:
If you find this collated information useful in preparing your article about the D43U series or your review of a specific model, I would appreciate a credit in your article, something like "thanks to user Chris Campbell at the internet site AVSforum for ...".


IF YOU ARE REPLYING TO THIS POST


1. Quote this article BUT THEN EDIT DOWN THE QUOTE to just the lines you are commenting on! Please! Do not quote this entire post just to make a two sentence comment.

2. If you are clarifying something for me, or have a reference, PROVIDE A URL. AVSforum post URLs can be found in the number link at the upper right corner of every post. For example, this post is number 1 or URL = http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&#post10470627

3. Please don't PM me.

AFTER YOU POST YOUR REPLY, IF YOU SEE THIS TEXT, THEN YOU DIDN'T FOLLOW STEP #1 ABOVE. PLEASE CLICK THE "EDIT" LINK BELOW RIGHT AND CUT THE QUOTE DOWN TO JUST THE PART YOU ARE COMMENTING ON. PLEASE. THANKS.

post #2 of 611
Thanks Chris!
This is already a great help.
post #3 of 611
I guess this breaks the rules of your thread! But, thanks for posting this. This should get to my house by tuesday from Buydig. If I have any questions, comments etc. I'll post in here. We finally have our own thread!
post #4 of 611
Thread Starter 
What rules? You mean being an owner? Eh, I'm not such a nazi about that like some here are.

Post updated with some more zoom behavior that I learned today when I hooked up the component input. Lots more to come, gotta go watch a movie
post #5 of 611
Just picked up this set a couple days ago. So far, it looks very good.

How about someone who's had this set for a while posting picture settings?
post #6 of 611
AV MODE Movie:

Backlight:STD
Contrast:+29
Brightness:+2
Color: -7
Tint:-2
Sharpness:0

Advanced settings:
Color Temp:mid-low
Black: on
Range of opc: max +5 Min: -7

Option settings
DNR: off
Hdmi setup:
Auto View : enabled
Audio Selectigital
Output Select: Variable

I am running a Jvc HTiB 1200w 5.1 Thru HDMI.
post #7 of 611
Thread Starter 
I updated the post with instructions on how to access the service menu and some firmware info. The guys over in the 92U thread (where I was hanging out earlier this year) are obsessed with that because it relates to the grey banding that they see on their larger fancier Sharp LCDs. At the 92U prices, they're expecting to get a lot closer to perfect and they're not getting it. Down here in 43U country we just don't care that much
post #8 of 611
I've got the costco lc3242u version (told by sharp customer service it's the lc32d43).
I greatly appreciate the info on leaving OPC on to correct the fluctuations while changing stations - that fixed this annoying problem. The only other concern I have with this set, and I've seen it from day one, is for action shots where the camera is moving quickly (mostly sports like hockey, basketball, etc.) the background becomes momentarily very grainy - almost like marbles - when the camera pans across the scene. It quickly resolves until the next action sequence. From all of the threads I've read, It most closely resembles the slightly noticeable artifacts that are seen with the sharpness turned up - which mine isn't.
When I'm at CC or BB looking over their displays, they don't seem as bad as mine in this respect.
So I guess I'm still undecided about this set.
post #9 of 611
Quote:
Originally Posted by sordof View Post

I've got the costco lc3242u version (told by sharp customer service it's the lc32d43).
I greatly appreciate the info on leaving OPC on to correct the fluctuations while changing stations - that fixed this annoying problem. The only other concern I have with this set, and I've seen it from day one, is for action shots where the camera is moving quickly (mostly sports like hockey, basketball, etc.) the background becomes momentarily very grainy - almost like marbles - when the camera pans across the scene. It quickly resolves until the next action sequence. From all of the threads I've read, It most closely resembles the slightly noticeable artifacts that are seen with the sharpness turned up - which mine isn't.
When I'm at CC or BB looking over their displays, they don't seem as bad as mine in this respect.
So I guess I'm still undecided about this set.

What type of signal are you using? I have a 37 and was watching hockey and basketball on OTA HD and did not see see that. I was expecting to actually. Hockey on NBC looked great yesterday and today. I haven't watched too many sports on Directv but would expect more due to the compression of the signal.
post #10 of 611
Comcast cable (digital). As a side note, I've got an older Sharp 32"5U(I think) with the side speakers. This definitely shows some motion blur on sporting events, but overall the picture is just as pleasing to watch.
post #11 of 611
I don't see any problems with the 37D43U watching HD Hockey,the picture is amazing
post #12 of 611
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sordof View Post

The only other concern I have with this set, and I've seen it from day one, is for action shots where the camera is moving quickly (mostly sports like hockey, basketball, etc.) the background becomes momentarily very grainy - almost like marbles - when the camera pans across the scene. It quickly resolves until the next action sequence.

That definitely sounds like MPEG compression artifacts. I work with video compression at the day job and that is precisely what we look for when trying to spot MPEG degradation: macroblocking in the background. So this problem has nothing to do with the LCD display, although it might have something to with the ATSC tuner if you were running the cable straight into the TV. If you were using a video connection from a set top box, like composite or HDMI, then the problem is in the set top box. Anyway, it's not likely to get better with another set (Sharp or not) so I'd just let it go.

OTA HD all the way man, it's gorgeous Golf on CBS yesterday was stunning.
post #13 of 611
Hi, I own the LC26D43U, so there is definitely a 26" model. Actually bought it at Futureshop yesterday.
post #14 of 611
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisC47 View Post


Gamers have not noticed any lag


I actually did follow the lc32d42u thread pretty closely and there were a few people talking about lag.

The first person said that there was lag on every input, no matter what the console or game. He said there's about a 1/10 of a second lag.

A second person reported having lag on one specific game (which doesn't make too much sense to me). A third person later mentioned that there is lag playing wii through composite cables, but expected it to go away when he gets component cables.

Of course, there were a few people saying that they enjoy the TV and notice no visual lag when playing video games. I just thought I'd summarize the thread in respect to this issue, so that people can see what other people's opinions are on this matter. Personally, this is the single issue thats holding me back from going down to the nearest Sears and picking up this TV.
post #15 of 611
Thread Starter 
Thanks daviddoel and pickitup13, I've updated the post.
post #16 of 611
Great thread. Help's a lot (new owner)

It's good to know what the hell OPC is And since it detects the room lighting, would it be possible to come up with a definitive AV setting?
post #17 of 611
Just tried the Wii through Component cables, and it got rid of the lag. Just make sure you set it to 480p once the cables are hooked up.

So because of that, I'm going to assume that my PS3 and 360 will work just fine as well since those output in HD. I just have them connected to my Toshiba DLP and its too much trouble right now to move them upstairs just to see what they look like.
post #18 of 611
I own the 37D42U

Does anyone knows if it has HDMI version 1.1, 1.2 or 1.3?

On page 30 of the manual is stated : When connecting an HDMI-DVI conversion adapter/cable to the HDMI terminal, the image may not come in clear.

Does anyone has tested this? I connected a DVD using a HDMI-DVI cable and the image was not as good as my previus TV Sharp 32G4U
I am going to try changing the cable.....
post #19 of 611
Thread Starter 
Thanks daviddoel, I updated the post with that tidbit.

I also added a problem I've had with viewing fast-forwarding tapes from my VCR.

You shouldn't care about HDMI 1.3. Really, you shouldn't. Just let it go.

Ordered my wall mount today, and a good surge-suppressing power strip.
post #20 of 611
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisC47 View Post

Thanks daviddoel, I updated the post with that tidbit.

I also added a problem I've had with viewing fast-forwarding tapes from my VCR.

You shouldn't care about HDMI 1.3. Really, you shouldn't. Just let it go.

Ordered my wall mount today, and a good surge-suppressing power strip.

which mount? I'm thinking of gettin one for this Sharp(which is supposed to arrive tom.) and for my 40" Sammy
post #21 of 611
I think that the picture dimming bug when switching channels is not due to the OPC itself but more to the AV mode(those that have Enhanced Picture Contrast).I have my TV on "User"(Enhanced Picture Contrast is OFF in this mode) and there doesn't seem to be an adjusting of the contrast when switching channels wether I have OPC On or OFF.
post #22 of 611
Yes, me too

post #23 of 611
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisC47 View Post


If watching an SD digital ATSC channel, that is playing 16:9 content letterboxed within the 4:3 SD, you can NOT change the view mode. You are stuck with watching the 16:9 content, letterboxed within the 4:3 SD frame, sidebarred WITHIN the 16:9 panel limits! I hate this and I hope I find a workaround.

Well,for 1080i/720p HD channels broadcasting 4:3 programs I can't change the view mode with the TV but I have zooms on my cablebox so this type of picture can fill the screen.On regular SD digital channels the TV zooms work as long as I select "passthrough" on my cablebox so they are not upconverted to 1080i or 720p(Smartstretch ,Zoom work on digital 480i/p signals)
post #24 of 611
Got the HD DVR box today and I noticed something with some HD programming. The picture seems a little 'jumpy'. I don't know how else to really put it. Its like its almost missing frames sometimes. I was tried to watch the basketball game and it was almost like I was watching a videogame with missing frames of animation.

As I'm typing this though I realized that the box is displaying in 1080i. I'm going to try changing it to 720p and see if I notice a difference.
post #25 of 611
Putting the cable box into 720p seemed to have fixed the problem.

I hope I don't run into this issue with the PS3 as it doesn't have an internal scaler chip, so I'm forced to run it in 1080i so it will play 720p and 1080i content.
post #26 of 611
Quote:
Originally Posted by daviddoel View Post

Got the HD DVR box today and I noticed something with some HD programming. The picture seems a little 'jumpy'. I don't know how else to really put it. Its like its almost missing frames sometimes. I was tried to watch the basketball game and it was almost like I was watching a videogame with missing frames of animation.
.

It's the signal I think.Something like you describe happened briefly during Heroes today.When it came back from the next commercial break it was back to normal.I noticed this a few times .Once during The Tonight Show.Anyways I'm sure it's not the TV's fault.1080i channels are generally perfect.I don't consider random bizarre artifacts that occur once in a while to be the TV's fault.

One thing that could be noted in the summary is that the TV should take 7-8 seconds (and not more )to show a picture after turning on the power.My first set had a defective power supply or something and took up to 90 seconds before showing a picture after pressing Power(the green power and OPC cabinet lights would come on but no sound and picture). It took me 3 weeks to figure out it was defective because it still always came on eventually and showed no other symptoms of beeing defective
post #27 of 611
I did notice it during the Tonight Show as well actually, while Mike Myers was on. But at the same time I noticed it on PBS HD during some nature show. Since I've turned it to 720p I haven't noticed any of these issues at all. That could be coincidental though.

I've just never noticed anything like that on my DLP which I've had playing HD cable content for almost 2 years now.
post #28 of 611
Quote:
Originally Posted by daviddoel View Post

Just tried the Wii through Component cables, and it got rid of the lag. Just make sure you set it to 480p once the cables are hooked up.

So because of that, I'm going to assume that my PS3 and 360 will work just fine as well since those output in HD. I just have them connected to my Toshiba DLP and its too much trouble right now to move them upstairs just to see what they look like.

Well, whenever you move the ps3 or 360 and use it with the Sharp, then let us know if there was any lag

Also, why do you think that the composite cables had lag, but the component didn't? Would using composite cables on a crt produce lag? I have a wii and I'm using it with a crt and I don't see any visible lag. I'd hate to get the lc37d43u and find out that playing older consoles like the N64 will lag way more than on a crt. Also, do you think even the gp1u would lag a lot with only composite cables?
post #29 of 611
I don't see why people expect old consoles like the N64 to work perfectly on a HDTV that wasn't really designed for that.Old consoles hooked up by composite will probably lag on any LCD out there and getting a GP1U just to make sure your N64 works (maybe) seems like nonsense.I don't even think you should be allowed to use composite cables or plug a VCR on these TV's

The Wii,Xbox 360 and PS3 should all work flawlessly though
post #30 of 611
Quote:
Originally Posted by king mark View Post

I don't see why people expect old consoles like the N64 to work perfectly on a HDTV that wasn't really designed for that.In any case that shouldn't be a deal breaker and getting a GP1U just to make sure your N64 works seems like nonsense.I don't even think you should be allowed to use composite cables or plug a VCR on these TV's

The Wii,Xbox 360 and PS3 should all work flawlessly though

Yea, you definitely make a great point. It's not a deal breaker. However, lag on the wii, 360 or ps3 through component WOULD be a deal breaker for me. So, I'd still like to hear more opinions as we've only had a few people comment on it.
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