AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Scott's Dual RL-p18 'LLT' design/build thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Scott's Dual RL-p18 'LLT' design/build thread - Page 5

post #121 of 398
7/4/07 at 7:34pm
Scott,
Man sometimes I feel the same way, sometimes the harder I try, the harder it becomes to get stuff done. Hope you had a good Fourth of July.

***
THE EAR,
The Porter 690 at 10K RPM is just fine, the bit is HUGE it's almost the same OD as the motor, When your taking this big a cut I back off 1/16" from final depth and make the cut in two or three passes, then I take off the final 1/16" as a smooth final cut. It's like making a plume of wooden showflakes.



Later
Dan
Reply
Reply

AVS Top Picks

post #122 of 398
7/8/07 at 12:56pm
Thread Starter 
Yaaaay! I FINALLY got some work done today....uncle and dad helped. We finished just shy of cutting the circles out of the second cab but we did one already...

TEASER:

We cut all the circles for one cab but you cant see all the cuts in this pic. Later tonight when we finish the rest I will repost pics so you all can see them.



Worked out in the back this time... (btw, the sun wasnt on the work area until after we finished for the morning and I came out and took this pic.)



Scraps...



New saw.





URGENT!!!: NeoDan, I looked over the cut sheets and something is missing. I need the center reference for the hole on the baffle for the port. I know the size just not where to cut it. Thank you.

MDF all over me....shower time.

EDIT: Upon further inspection, the 17" hole I cut was either too big or SS mis-calculated the frame cutout because I fit the frame over the hole I cut and it felt about 3/8 or 1/4 inch too big. Hmmm....
Reply
Reply
post #123 of 398
7/8/07 at 6:09pm



looks like 12" + 17.5" = 29.5" from the bottom edege to the center

Bummer on the driver cutout, I'd also measure the driver to verify the OD is going to fit closely to the 18.5" specified for the flush-mount cutout.

As for the port I would cut it to final size with a flush-trim bit or round-over bit so it matches the inside diameter of the port tube perfectly, just cut the MDF mounting rings for the port from the scrap and attach them to the box, then slide the port tube into place and use the router to make the cutout for the opening, the bearing on the bit guides it for a perfect cut.


Later
Dan
Reply
Reply
post #124 of 398
7/8/07 at 6:32pm
Thread Starter 
Ah! Alright, Ill have to give it a good measuring.

*phew* Just finished some dinner so Im gonna let the food settle before we go back outside. I haven't tried it yet but the front cutout might be just big enough to allow the outer part of the frame to fit but that small square piece that goes behind it seems to be cut a little too large. A friend and I plopped one down on it and it holds but kinda shifts around. I chose the 17" hole on the circle jig and it seems to measure as that too...but it shifts to the side at almost 1/4 inch. Ill see what I can do to fix that lil prob. Maybe make another square with a 16 3/4 or 5/8 of an inch.

Thanks again, Dan!
Reply
Reply
post #125 of 398
7/8/07 at 7:54pm
Scott,
no need to wait around for me to check the board, you can call me if you have a question.

Here is how I measure baskets, simple but effective.
Reply
Reply
post #126 of 398
7/8/07 at 11:43pm
Thread Starter 
Ha! That's effin great. Idk why I didn't think of that.

I was able to make a new "mini baffle" with a spare piece of MDF that had accumulated. Apparently 16.5 inches was the right fit for the frame. Fit like a glove. Not shifting, both were nice and snug. All the screw holes have MDF to catch onto now.


"looks like 12" + 17.5" = 29.5" from the bottom edege to the center"

I felt like an idiot, heh...I never noticed that draft for the center reference on the port. Thanks for pointing that one out.

Got your PM, Dan...I think I may give you a call this week. Get a little more details on how I actually put this thing together.

Last things on the list to purchase: sonotube for the ports, whatever that insulation stuff is called for lining the inside , latex paint, black primer, more wood glue and liquid nails. Yup, I think that's it....

*phew!* Long day of cutting MDF....time for some gluing and clamping this week!

Pics tomorrow too.
Reply
Reply
post #127 of 398
7/10/07 at 1:45pm
Thread Starter 
Promised those pics yesterday...

Went to go take them and my camera battery was dead.

Took these at lunch...

Here's all the wood for both cabs. On the right is all the panels that dont need circles cut out. Ie: side, top and bottom. Along with some extras for making the small extra brace pieces.




I will use those scrap circles to cut out the extra support rings and also for a small recess in the back for the binding posts.






Notice that one of the mini baffles in these last pics is less wide than another. The one by its loneself (leaning against the A-frame) is the one that had a 17" hole cut and that didnt fit...so its waste for now. I plan on glueing those mini baffles to the main baffle for support so Im sure I can do alright with one not touching the side walls.
Reply
Reply
post #128 of 398
7/10/07 at 7:55pm
That's sweet dude


Later
Dan
Reply
Reply
post #129 of 398
7/10/07 at 8:10pm
Thread Starter 
At least you're interested in my progress...

Heh. More work tomorrow!

Reply
Reply
post #130 of 398
7/11/07 at 8:01am
Scott,
that's because I know what's about to go down at your place. I feel sorry for your windows

there gonna take a beating, LOL


Later
Dan
Reply
Reply
post #131 of 398
7/11/07 at 8:07am
Scott,

Good work ! Keep the pics comming.
Reply
Reply
post #132 of 398
7/11/07 at 9:43am
Thread Starter 
Will do!

Lolz...these windows are the furthest from where these sub will be placed in our house. Heheheh, they'll probably still shake. It looks like the MDF is leaning up against the window in those shots but none of it was touching.

Ive got a few little trims here and there to do today.
Reply
Reply
post #133 of 398
7/11/07 at 6:09pm
I have a question regarding that huge roundover bit. The hole in the base plate of my bosch router is smaller than the diameter of that bit. How can you use it in a plunge router? Or, can you only use it in a fixed based router? But then you couldn't adjust how much rounding over you do if you didn't want to use its full radius.
Reply
Reply
post #134 of 398
7/11/07 at 8:06pm
Just make or buy a baseplate for your router, here's one in plexi, masonite is good too. Buy a 1/4" handi panel of masonite and make several, make some 12" square for extra stability.



Later
Dan


Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamms View Post

I have a question regarding that huge roundover bit. The hole in the base plate of my bosch router is smaller than the diameter of that bit. How can you use it in a plunge router? Or, can you only use it in a fixed based router? But then you couldn't adjust how much rounding over you do if you didn't want to use its full radius.
Reply
Reply
post #135 of 398
7/19/07 at 1:48pm
Thread Starter 
Got my tubes today.

I took this one of the finished braces last week.



And I took this one today on my lunch of all the wood, finished backs and the tubes. I have to finish the front still. I was just waiting to get the tubes so I knew how big those holes had to be.



All I got to do is finish the front. After that, it's assembly time!
Reply
Reply
post #136 of 398
7/19/07 at 1:52pm
looks great
Reply
Reply
post #137 of 398
7/19/07 at 2:17pm
Sweet, how big are those ports going to be? Looks like they say "8" in red on the side. They look big.

What are you doing with all those extra disks? End tables?
Reply
Reply
post #138 of 398
7/19/07 at 2:22pm
Thread Starter 


Thanks!

Video - They are 8" ID sonotubes, yes. I called them and asked if they could cut to lengths for me since I have a small car (Dodge Neon) and a full length wouldn't fit. They didn't even charge me for a full 12'. Got two 36" cuts made just for me to take home. Ran about $15 for both of them together. What a deal! All those discs were scraps from all the brace cuts. Most of it will be trash but at least two of them will be used to make the extra woofer mounting rings that attach to the "mini baffle" on the front.
Reply
Reply
post #139 of 398
7/21/07 at 10:19pm
Thread Starter 
Hey guys! Got a little bit of work done today. Fixed a few odd ends here and there and also made the extra support rings for the ports. Went to the store and got a gallon of grey primer paint and a gallon of black paint. One thing I forgot to get was the inner liner for the cabs. I know its some sort of fiberglass insulation but Im not too sure which one to get.

Tomorrow I will have my uncle over to help out. We will start the assembly if everything goes well.
Reply
Reply
post #140 of 398
7/23/07 at 11:21am
Thread Starter 
Hmmmm...

I guess everyone is busy with this "killer deal on 15inch subs!" ....bllllaaaaahhhhh


PROGRESS:

Got lots and lots done this weekend....heh, just have a look.

First box done-ish (no front or side) all the braces in...







Back piece on.



My short-ass next to this beast...



My good friend, Dan, standing next to it (he's about 6'3")



Weight on the back piece while drying



Laying down



That "little" joiner brace at the bottom.



cont.
Reply
Reply
post #141 of 398
7/23/07 at 11:22am
Thread Starter 
Trying out the front baffle...fits like a charm!



Fitting in those ports





Second one getting all braced up.







Taking a breather...

Reply
Reply
post #142 of 398
7/23/07 at 11:23am
Thread Starter 
Back to work...



Btw, those ports are about 3' tall....(for scale)










Still need to know what that insulation is called for my inner liner guys. So much momentum I dont want to stop. Oh yeah, they are very heavy! Hehehehehe.
Reply
Reply
post #143 of 398
7/23/07 at 11:29am
lol....looking good scott! the subs, that is

you ain't kidding about short ass!!
Reply
Reply
post #144 of 398
7/23/07 at 11:48am
has anyone done a graph before comparing tons of diff drivers and their max spl at say 18hz vs box size? It would be an interesting topic as you could see the literal diff bw an 18 in a coffin size box vs 6 12's in a coffin size box or something of the like.
Reply
Reply
post #145 of 398
7/23/07 at 11:57am
Thread Starter 
The 12's will most likely have more output....but they wont go flat anechoic to 10hz.
Reply
Reply
post #146 of 398
7/23/07 at 12:24pm
Scott,
The WMD's (I dub thee, WMD's) look great, I would expect all sorts of attacks on your manhood

I feel sorry for those who live in the vicinity, poor unsuspecting neighbors will be thinking there are seismic tremors

Flat in room to 10hz is more like it.
Are you running the DSP1124P?



Later
Dan
Reply
Reply
post #147 of 398
7/23/07 at 1:36pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Are you running the DSP1124P?

Yep. BFD only subtracts about 1dB @ 10hz. I should really check out my LFE output on my HK525 too. They should be pretty flat in-room.

Does anyone know what that insulation is called for my inner liner? I know I can get it at Home Depot. What is it called?

EDIT: Taking time away from working ....had to scavenge a ****-load of peoples build threads to even get it. Looks like i need R13. Hmmm? Yes?
Reply
Reply
post #148 of 398
7/26/07 at 10:34am
Thread Starter 
Some work I did last night...

Added braces in the horizontal direction.





And I finished the fronts. Got the extra support rings on there for the port and extra support blocks for where the mounting bolts go for the woofer. I was originally going to use scrap rings but the diameter of them wasnt big enough for a full ring. This should still work, though. Just not as slick looking.





Also bought a bag of R13 since I didnt really get an answer to if I should use it or not. Today or tomorrow I will start applying it to the side walls.
Reply
Reply
post #149 of 398
7/27/07 at 10:53am
Thread Starter 
Silly question if anyone is reading this...

What side of the wood do you mount 'Hurricane nuts'? (similar to T-nuts)

Do you place them so that the flat side on the front orthe inside?I thought they would be on the inside so that the thickness of the hurricane nut doesnt impede the airtightness of the woofer but Ive seen pics with the the flat part on the outside.

Silly question but thats where Im about to be and I need to know. Thanks!
Reply
Reply
post #150 of 398
7/27/07 at 11:40am
just like this


I usually put the woofer in the box and trace the screw holes in the basket onto the baffle. Drill the holes for the hurricant nuts "just big enough" for the barrel to fit, the teeth need a good bite into the wood.

Get some washers and use the screws to pull the hurricane nuts into the wood like this

putting a very small dab of construction adhesive on the hurricane nut is also good idea

Pay extra close attention to how you do all this, if you drill at an angle and the hurricane nut is crooked, your scrued getting the screws in will be a PITA

Start all the screws by hand so you don't cross thread, it's a PITA to drill out a screw head if you do that.


Later
Dan
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs

AVS Top Picks

AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Scott's Dual RL-p18 'LLT' design/build thread