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Scott's Dual RL-p18 'LLT' design/build thread - Page 3

post #61 of 398
5/23/07 at 1:27am
Scott,
Ok I figured out a way to NOT buy more wood, just use a brace hole cutout, it should be 19" if you use a 1/4" bit with the circle jig.

That'll put you at 723.9 liters, port OAL 31.805"

If you do double it up , you can then order the 1/4"-20 mounting kit to get the bolts, don't use the T-nuts though, get the Hurricane nutsand glue them in with some PL premium adhesive, or any other polyurethane adhesive. Polyurethane adhesive is awsome stuff , just don't get any on ya, it'll stick with ya for a long long time

The finish on the 4-15" box is Flat black Latex interior wall paint over automotive primer, I was in no mood to do multiple primer coats so I bought a gallon of grey auto primer and put it on with a paint roller just hit the end grain 2 times and your golden. FYI if you go this route, thin it out a bit ~8 to 1 ratio is good.

Now about that graph:
That's one box with the driver wired to 8 ohms nominal @ ~700 watts. The room gain is fairly modest. Unless you get really lucky I would expect a room mode(boom) between 35 to 45hz hopefully the array loading helps you out a bit.


I cut some Baltic Birch today, meh, I don't think I like it. It had a l'ill warp to it, not fun to cut. I'm making a table extension with a router lift for the table saw, should be cool. I'll post a couple shots of it later.


I hooked up a BASH 500 to the 4-15" box, The box is wired to 4 ohms nominal. That amp was pushing those 15"s like buttah ~2"p-p at 9hz, my neighbor was ALL ABOUT that amp after that demo. I'm thinking I could dump the K series and the Rane PE 17 eq for that little 6lbs amp, and be happy. I really want to get a BKA1000-A4 and modify the filter in it, Imagine a 30" 1000 liter sono tuned just under 7hz, thats has a -3db in room of 6.5hz.

It would take every bit of the 40mm X-mech to do it though.
12' of 30" sono is $109.20, now if I could figure out a way to get it in the basement.
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post #62 of 398
5/23/07 at 10:53am
Thread Starter 
Quote:


Ok I figured out a way to NOT buy more wood, just use a brace hole cutout, it should be 19" if you use a 1/4" bit with the circle jig.

Ah, I was just thinking the same thing late last night. Although I was too tired to reply....

Quote:


If you do double it up , you can then order the 1/4"-20 mounting kit to get the bolts, don't use the T-nuts though, get the Hurricane nutsand glue them in with some PL premium adhesive, or any other polyurethane adhesive.

Those look like the type of bolts/screws that came with my woofs. I took pics last night but forgot to upload them. (I'll do that today when I come home for lunch.) I think they are the same size but just...zinc colored, heh.

Quote:


The finish on the 4-15" box is Flat black Latex interior wall paint over automotive primer, I was in no mood to do multiple primer coats so I bought a gallon of grey auto primer and put it on with a paint roller just hit the end grain 2 times and your golden. FYI if you go this route, thin it out a bit ~8 to 1 ratio is good.

Hmmm...Something Ill have to come back for at the end. Black sounds like a good color. I was comparing veneer/laminate prices last night anticipating my fathers loathing of the bland color. "Hey, at least it's not white now!" Lolz...all my DIY speakers are still primer-white. Heheh...

Quote:


I cut some Baltic Birch today, meh, I don't think I like it. It had a l'ill warp to it, not fun to cut. I'm making a table extension with a router lift for the table saw, should be cool. I'll post a couple shots of it later.

I had a feeling the BB was gonna be like that. Always thought that MDF was just fine to work with. Just messy. Guess I am sticking with 100% MDF. It'll make shopping easier too.

Quote:


Now about that graph:
That's one box with the driver wired to 8 ohms nominal @ ~700 watts. The room gain is fairly modest. Unless you get really lucky I would expect a room mode(boom) between 35 to 45hz hopefully the array loading helps you out a bit.

Heh. Still doesn't look like the modeled Rlp18, I can't see a shelf on there. I do like the just about 120dB output of just one cab. I do have a fairly good mode in the 30's. Holy cow, awesome. I wonder what kind of stacking I should do if it would make a difference.

Quote:


I hooked up a BASH 500 to the 4-15" box, The box is wired to 4 ohms nominal. That amp was pushing those 15"s like buttah ~2"p-p at 9hz, my neighbor was ALL ABOUT that amp after that demo. I'm thinking I could dump the K series and the Rane PE 17 eq for that little 6lbs amp, and be happy.

You're gonna dump your K2 for a 500w BASH? Why?

Quote:


I really want to get a BKA1000-A4 and modify the filter in it, Imagine a 30" 1000 liter sono tuned just under 7hz, thats has a -3db in room of 6.5hz.

Hellz yeah! I am all for it. Wonder what you can do to get a responce like that for mine. Hahaha. I bet my BFD would roll all that <10hz stuff out anyway.
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post #63 of 398
5/23/07 at 1:30pm
A peice of 4" SCH 40 PVC in the 8" sono port would do the trick, this wil flow WAY more than the 8" alone

Take the port to 3" from the back wall

No EQ, natural in room response and output curve


With EQ for flat response and woofer protection

The Q of 1.2 on the EQ isn't overly demanding, and could be handled by modding the switchable 25hz HPF in your EP2500, that is if it is a 12db per oct circuit. I wish I had the ability to calculate filters for 24 and 36db circuits.

As for the BASH amp, just think about your situation, You are looking at a total (both cabs 4ohm final) baseline 2.83v sensitivy of just over 97db. Compare that to your front end, I don't know what you've got, but I bet it won't keep up It's all good though


Freak your Dad out, find some nice paint and do whole front end of the room speakers and all
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post #64 of 398
5/24/07 at 1:10pm
Thread Starter 
Here are those screws that came with my Sound Splinter drivers.





Let me know if I should use them or purchase some from PE.

Quote:


A peice of 4" SCH 40 PVC in the 8" sono port would do the trick, this wil flow WAY more than the 8" alone

Woah. You're gonna have to explain that one to me. Extend the original port to 3 inches from the back wall but what is the tube inside the tube doing? It almost looks like the smaller tube is sticking out of the front. Is this a hollow tube or just there to reduce the port area of the 8 inch?

Quote:


No EQ, natural in room response and output curve

With EQ for flat response and woofer protection

Haha! Those are great looking sims. I would take either one! Dunno how to mod the filter on my EP2500. Maybe when that subwoofer filter/EQ comes out I can have filter like that. Before I would try either one, I should confirm the low end extension of my electronic equipment with REW (RoomEQWizard). I know my BFD will provide some pretty decent rolloff around 5hz so I should really look into my 10hz electronic ability.
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post #65 of 398
5/24/07 at 1:23pm
Quote:


Let me know if I should use them or purchase some from PE.

Well, they're easily holding in my TC-2000 which is facing down on the bottom of my sonosub, and the only thing the screws are into besides MDF is 1/2" of OSB.

I think even Kramskoi uses them (or ones similar) for his TC-3000 monsters.
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post #66 of 398
5/25/07 at 6:53am
I'm sure(I know)those screws will work fine. It's how many times you take them in and out that will cause problems. MDF ain't the first choice when it comes to stuff to screw into. After I realised that if i'd just slow down enough to let some adhesive setup I wouldn't have to buy several pounds of screws and pilot drill& countersink every one of them. So now it's clamps and a little patients, polyurethane glues like gorilla and ultimate setup in like 4 hours. the joints are probably stronger (no gaps) and my boxes generally turn out great. So being that I didn't sink 3lbs of screws into a box I don't mind splurging on the hurricane nuts and speakons and such.
BTW I don't think that 1/4" hardware will fit in your basket, probably the #10 sized stuff

About the port, the drawing(quick and dirty) is incomplete there would need to be flairs on the ends and a support on the front of the box, somewhere around here I have the Polk Power Port spreadsheet and whitepaper to do the calculations for that, but the 4" PVC is centered in the 8" sono and it does cut the area down to ~34sq", and not that it matters much for your box, but the PVC tube will allow for siginificant increase in vent velocity without turbulance problems.

About the sims, both of them do include a 6db per octave gain starting at 30hz.

The filter mods in the amps have been the biggest bang for the buck type improvement. To take a generic PE 240 watt plate amp and eliminate the 30hz boost is one thing but to use that filter to get flat response to near 10hz and protect the driver is just awesome. I've done it to the BASH 500 too, both of those amps come with a sheet that has a table of resistor values to alter the filter. I have a spreadsheet that allows for complete customization of the filter. It is as simple as swapping out a 2-4 components, usually it takes more time to find locations in the amp's PCB than anything else. Other than that the hardest thing is rembering what you modded the filter to exactly(I'll use a sharpie next time)
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post #67 of 398
5/28/07 at 1:56pm
An update on the HTS subs for my Dad



Tuning came in a bit low @ 11.1267hz
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post #68 of 398
5/28/07 at 10:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEO Dan View Post

the 4" PVC is centered in the 8" sono and it does cut the area down to ~34sq", and not that it matters much for your box, but the PVC tube will allow for siginificant increase in vent velocity without turbulance problems.

Do you have a white paper handy on that subject? Would like to read it. Not at all familiar with fluid flow dynamics etc...
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post #69 of 398
5/29/07 at 11:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by shr-t View Post

Do you have a white paper handy on that subject? Would like to read it. Not at all familiar with fluid flow dynamics etc...


You could contact Polk Audio about it(Power Port White Paper and .xls files). I don't see it listed on the website though. I'm in the same situation as I have not been able to locate my copy of the material.



Good luck.
Dan
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post #70 of 398
5/29/07 at 11:50pm
Quote:


Let me know if I should use them or purchase some from PE.

Just be sure to drill a very small pilot hole (3/32) along with blocking the back if your drilling into 3/4". You'll have no problem what-so-ever. Looking forward to your project Scott.
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post #71 of 398
5/30/07 at 8:17pm
I gave up on finding the Power Port info, I must have lost it. But I got lucky, I did manage to find someone at Polk Audio who knew what I was looking for, they were nice enough to track it down and make me another copy. Hopefully i'll have it sometime next week(sent via USPS). I gotta give them credit on this, really going out of there way to hook me up.


Scott,
I gotta say, I can't recall ever being anxious for someone else to get paid. I am really reved up to see this BEAST come to life. Reminds me of the SVS subhuman commercial, makes me grin the evil grin
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post #72 of 398
5/31/07 at 3:12pm
Thread Starter 
Yeah....

Honestly, the project has been a sore subject to me lately. Having to wait these two weeks for another paycheck put me into a small depression when thinking about it. Like I've said, these two are still sitting on my dresser so I have had a daily reminder about getting into gear to get this up and going...Trust me. I wanted to start the build about a month ago. Traffic tickets and bank checking overdrafts delayed it.

Been avoiding this thread a little bit too...

Tomorrow is payday....I have about two bucks in there now and it takes til about Tuesday for it to go through. The bad part is that I may not be able to get supplies this weekend. In fact, since I got so many overcharges before, I was left with very little money to use on gas and now I may be overcharged once more when Square Enix charges my card at the beginning of this next month.

If it isn't too bad I think I'm gonna take all I've got left over and see if I can come home with all six MDF sheets instead of two trips of three sheets each.

*sigh*

So now that I got to explain where I am at....heh....

Omfg do I want to get this going!

Quote:


An update on the HTS subs for my Dad

Tuning came in a bit low @ 11.1267hz

Awesome! Very nice. Have you decided on a finish or are you gonna leave it naked? 11.1hz tune, very low. That sucker looks heavy. Incredible. Hope that mates well with whatever room it is put in.

Quote:


About the sims, both of them do include a 6db per octave gain starting at 30hz.

I gotta ask again...what is different about the model for the Rlp in your graph compared to mine from Unibox? I have a clearly visible "shelf" in the FR and in the one you put up the rolloff is more gradual. I see a 9dB drop from the mid-teens to 40hz. My Unibox plot show a full FR before a 9dB drop. Your first one looks ore like my current Tempest or this design if you tab "Fully stuffed" in the insulation tab in Unibox.

I'd like that clarified by you if you can, Dan?

Also, don't know if I want to go all crazy with a PowerPort-like implementation. Maybe I'll start with an over sized port and work up from there. Maybe 34-35 inches and then start trimming. We'll know when I have the box finished and a final Vb is calculated.

Quote:


I gotta say, I can't recall ever being anxious for someone else to get paid. I am really revved up to see this BEAST come to life.

Seriously, I'm right there with ya. Staring at these not doing anything everyday is getting to me. Putting my EP2500 to use, bridged, running my center. I know you're all very excited to see this moving. I am too.
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post #73 of 398
5/31/07 at 10:44pm
Scott,
I tinkered around in BassBox for almost two hours, I have to crank up the Q loss to levels that would represent a lossless box, I think beyond lossless actually. I did get the response close, but I gotta say your vent velocity numbers look quite inflated. If you did achive the response shown in your sim, when you put it in a room with a gain of 6db per octave @ 30hz it looks like this:
I guess if it did turn out like this you could eliminate the BFD because the 30hz room mode you mentioned would turn the whole thing into a nice shelf, so who knows.

I do know one thing, you will have a massive amount of quality low bass.

The good thing about how things are done is that, the drawings and volume calculations are independent of the response simulation, so no worries there.



As for my Dad's setup,
He already has the sub I built last month, here is an overlay simulated in room vs PCRTA
The room turned my little EBS3 into a freaking monster, it's a bummer about the room mode but hopefully having 2 subs one flanking each side of the listening position mitigates the BOOM somewhat. It is a total blast with action movies, the low low end feels a good deal stronger than the PCRTA suggests, if the new pair of subs dosen't improve the room curve I hope he springs for the O-audio BASH 500 with the notch filter, he is a prime candidate for it.

I am quitting for tonight, I'm tired
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post #74 of 398
6/1/07 at 11:54am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
I tinkered around in BassBox for almost two hours, I have to crank up the Q loss to levels that would represent a lossless box, I think beyond lossless actually. I did get the response close, but I gotta say your vent velocity numbers look quite inflated. If you did achive the response shown in your sim, when you put it in a room with a gain of 6db per octave @ 30hz it looks like this:

From my Unibox....

Physical Vb 1450 liters
Qa 20
Ql 7
Qp 80
Fb 12hz

With those settings, I get a FR identical to the one in my original post. To get one similar to the simulated graphs you posted, I would have to check off the "heavy fill" in the damping tab. I use minimal leaks in "leakage" and one flush end for the port.

With "heavy fill" Qa drops to 5 from 20...dunno if that has anything to do with it. Back in the day, I usually preferred to get a gradual slope like that but with all the LLT's and EBS's around I guess I got the shelf stamped into my head.

I don't believe that the room gain will be that extreme. If it is then I think I'll be moving the tune down...I tried 10.8hz tune in Unibox and it didn't look to bad. Ive been using 725liters per box in Unibox to copy what your finalized CAD but I am still confused on the OAL of the port.

Guess I couldn't complain if I had a FR like that...slowly rising to 10hz. Very cool! Makes me wanna drop the tune a cycle or two.

Quote:
I do know one thing, you will have a massive amount of quality low bass.

Damn right!

Quote:
As for my Dad's setup,
He already has the sub I built last month, here is an overlay simulated in room vs PCRTA

Nice! Can you possibly post another pic of the RTA? I can't tell what frequencies are what on that.
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post #75 of 398
6/1/07 at 6:25pm
IGNORE THE SPL
Measured with an ECM 8000 and M-Audio Mobile Pre USB
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post #76 of 398
6/4/07 at 11:41am
Thread Starter 
Yeah....you got a nice bit of a bump in that exciting little area, huh? Trim out that peak and you got a nice FR. Where is your XO set? 80hz? That's quite a dropoff >60hz.

Update: I got pretty lame check but I just may have enough. My bank is super slow and I have just enough available to get gas and such. My checks usually clear by Tuesdays so we'll see tomorrow.
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post #77 of 398
6/4/07 at 8:46pm
I think the X-over was down all the way ~50hz

Just be patient, even if you can olny swing enough $ for 2 sheets of MDF, that'll keep you busy for awhile. Just build the internals for both cabs(cut sheet 3), lots of time in the router work and glue up. Have you checked your e-mail lately? I sent you several files and a viewer.


High life impedance SUCKS
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post #78 of 398
6/5/07 at 11:10am
Thread Starter 
Quote:


I think the X-over was down all the way ~50hz

Alright. It looked like it. Was worried you had a bad gap there.

Quote:


Just be patient, even if you can olny swing enough $ for 2 sheets of MDF, that'll keep you busy for awhile.

Oh no...I want it all. My check went through this morning and it looks like I should have enough to get most if not all the sheets. Depends on where I pick it up and how much it's going for there. My problem is that I need them to be in pristine condition since I will be using the full length of the sheet. My uncle recommended that I drop by a particular lumber yard instead of someplace like: Lowes or Home Depot. I agree.

Gonna be preoccupied with that this afternoon/evening. Omfg, that would be sweet if I started cutting tonight. If not, I have a half-day tomorrow so I have all afternoon to cut.

Wondering which order the whole thing should go up in...

Maybe my uncle will know....

Quote:


Have you checked your e-mail lately? I sent you several files and a viewer.

Not until I read this... I rarely use my email.

Those look great, Dan! Definitly printing all those out for the build. Im gonna keep it like I (tried) to do for my Tempest. Sort of an "manual" for it.

Couple of details about one .pdf...if it were cool and not too much work...heh...

I think the .pdf was called "BB" or something and it was in the first email you sent me, Dan. It had the alignment of the system. Couple of typos in the T/S it looked like. Just one or two. I think the Fs is 21.5 and not 22.3 or whatever it said. And the spec'd Xmax says "24.7" when it should be "27.4". Very small details but I think I could just change it or leave it.

The "BIG" one though is the simulated FR posted and the Excursion. Both still show up like I have the box "fully stuffed" instead of "walls lined". I plan on lining the walls with either foam or fiberglass insulation.

This is what they look like compared to each other, for me at least, in Unibox. I noticed you're using Bass Box Pro. I have never used it. (you have to pay for it )

Here is a cropped shot of my workspace for the "walls lined" version. My reference.



This is the same space...but I selected "box fully stuffed" to show you all the spec stuff. Heh.



Here is the excursion...first is mine with the lined walls and then simulated with the box fully stuffed.





.....cont.
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post #79 of 398
6/5/07 at 11:10am
Thread Starter 
...continued

Airspeed. First mine....then fully stuffed.





And impedence....not too bad.





Many of the "fully stuffed" models look like the ones I got from you. I included a shot of the workspace so you could see what everything was at. Maybe we have discrepancies from user to user or maybe its our different software.

Here is also a shot of the top of Unibox so you can see where I have everything set. Including the T/S I am using.



Given that pic of my "shelfed" FR inroom has had me thinking all weekend about dropping the tune as low as possible with the standard tube. I was modeling 11hz tune and 10.8hz. When I get the tube for the port, I think I will try to two 35" cuts to keep the first resonance over 160hz and check the tune somehow. See how low it is. The power port idea is great but I think it will complicate it for me and I want the tuning to be an easy set and forget kind of deal. I am sure Ill prolly like the first, lowest tune as long as the FR isn't drooping to to 10hz. We shall see.


FURTHER UPDATE: I've sourced the lumber yard I plan to pick the wood up from. Going to be picking up THREE sheets. Possibly four at the most. I have looked at the cut sheets many times and it appears that I could have them cut each sheet in half to fit in the vehicle. That will make transporting them home WAY easier than trying to find someone how has a truck bed. Heh.

Buying three sheets will allow me to afford to purchase a circle jig, which I think I need badly. Unfortunately, I have no idea if it will work on which ever router we have. I don't know what brand it is...more research I need to be doing. Possibly pick up a 8" PVC or sono if it is available and affordable.

Any advice or recommendations on what else to pickup from the hardware store would be very helpful as well.

MDF cutting begins TOMORROW!!!
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post #80 of 398
6/5/07 at 6:28pm
1st off sorry about typoing the X-max in the .pdf I sent you, but the Fs is correct.

here are the params I enter into BassBox:

Then I hit the calculate button at the bottom (cause i'm a lazy biotch)
This is what you get:

After that i'll go back and correct X-mech and mabey enter power, but the core params I enter at the top are really what everything else in the sim is calculated from. Unlike tweeters and mids, subwoofers are for the most part easily characterized.

I'm sorry the BassBox sims don't match well with the UniBox, I can can tell it's getting under your skin a bit. RELAX, your good. This thing is gonna kick ass, it'll be a truly excelent HT Subwoofer.

But belive it or not I didn't even enter the driver parameters into the program when I did the volume calculations, you told me everything you wanted it to be, and other than asking to adjust the depth to a full sheet of MDF it was really done seperately of any response simulations. That being said I guess the OAL for the port is a tad on the long side for a 12hz tune, I didn't use any stuffing in the program because I wasn't plotting responses. For a box this big i'm not likely to stuff it at all, I'd rather add some more bracing.

I've never used UniBox, looks like it needs a reset button LOL. So many places to enter data, it'd be easy for me to make typo related mistakes in there.
Just to check i pulled up the constants panel in BB it is slightly diferent than UniBox, that is one thing that will effect the sim, that and the params in UniBox are a little off. Try using the ones I just posted above and see if it comes any closer.

Heres the constants:
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post #81 of 398
6/5/07 at 6:48pm
Just missed your update

For the Jasper jig you need 1/4"(it's calibrated for them) straight bits, buy carbide (it dosen't need to be a solid carbide) not the high speed steel, the steel won't last long enough.

Three sheets is enough to get all the internals and baffles and backs, a good choice as you can then take your time with all the detail work.


Adhesive choice is bassed on how the parts fit together, if you have clean cuts and no big gaps you can use glue, rougher stuff gets construction adhesive. PL premium construction adhesive and ultimate or gorilla glue are what I use.

also you have a PM
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post #82 of 398
6/7/07 at 10:50am
Thread Starter 
Quote:


1st off sorry about typoing the X-max in the .pdf I sent you, but the Fs is correct....

After that i'll go back and correct X-mech and mabey enter power, but the core params I enter at the top are really what everything else in the sim is calculated from. Unlike tweeters and mids, subwoofers are for the most part easily characterized.

I'm sorry the BassBox sims don't match well with the UniBox, I can can tell it's getting under your skin a bit. RELAX, your good. This thing is gonna kick ass, it'll be a truly excelent HT Subwoofer.

First off....I'm sorry if I sounded like such a jerk about it... It was getting under my skin. Idk why but I got caught up in your simulations. Maybe I just was thinking you were double checking my work. I really don't know why. So, sorry if I came off like a jerk, Dan. I REALLY appreciate your help. I couldn't have gotten this far without your help. Don't worry about a few typos...I was worried that they would skew your simulations and now...it really doesn't matter too much. Well, since you said the sims weren't related to the box drawings.

Progress: Purchased THREE sheets of 3/4" MDF from a semi-local lumber yard. One of the better places, better than a 'Lowes' or 'Home Depot'. Had them cut each sheet to a 48.5 x 49" cuts. (one might be a 1/16-1/8 short, idk...better check it)That way, we could fit it into my dads van. Also means that there are three cuts done, three cuts that don't need to be done. Dad and I measured and marked off all the spots to be sliced. Unfortunately, we didn't have the right blades so I wasn't able to get my hands very dirty yesterday. Looks like I may cut tonight. Ugh! I better! Gonna have to ask my uncle if he has a jasper jig. Would a hardware store sell one big enough? I only saw one on PE and it was $40 plus a nice wait for it to ship. Any other method to cut out the circles for the braces? Also, what order and fashion do I start slapping this together? I forgot how I started on my Tempest, that was six years ago. Do I start with the bottom and glue a side on? Then back? I want one of the sides to go on last so I can line with insulation and get the wires and little things down before it closes...

PICS:

1st pile of MDF...



This is the blade my dad got for the skillsaw...




I also would like to add that the MDF was in very good condition when I picked it up. All good edges!
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post #83 of 398
6/7/07 at 10:58am
re: cutting a hole with router without Jasper Jig.

http://www.descendingashtray.com/archives/186

A hunk of wood attached to the router and just drill a hole in the wood as your
center point reference. The link above takes this one step further and makes
a slot with adjustment. You can save some money making your own jig.
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post #84 of 398
6/7/07 at 11:24am
Thread Starter 
Quote:


http://www.descendingashtray.com/archives/186

That is a very cool link, thylantyr. Not sure if I could put something like that together. I would mess it up somehow...hehheh.
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post #85 of 398
6/7/07 at 11:03pm
Scott,
it's all good, i'm not pissed.

Are you gonna build one box with the three sheets, or cut all the internals, baffles and backs for both boxes. It'll take awhile to assemble the internal parts for both boxes. If your not rushing to complete just one box, your more likely to have better results in the end.

What router do you have, you definately need a way to cut good circles?

The first things to be put together are attaching the 4" ribs to the internal braces and baffle and back, remember they are the 3/4" from the outside edge.

The insulation will be one of the last things, this box is so big you can easily get inside it, the baffle and back go on last.





I got mail from Polk today, OMFG dude

I'm seriously thinking this defines a new category: SLuT = Super Low Tune


8" id sono lined with 4" PVC, flaired out = 9"id 125" long port. This would put your box at about 707 liters @ 7.434hz
Here's the inner end:

And the data:
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post #86 of 398
6/8/07 at 3:06am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
it's all good, i'm not pissed.


Awesome!

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Are you gonna build one box with the three sheets, or cut all the internals, baffles and backs for both boxes. It'll take awhile to assemble the internal parts for both boxes. If your not rushing to complete just one box, your more likely to have better results in the end. What router do you have, you definitely need a way to cut good circles?

I plan on using it all to build one and then, two weeks from now, I'll have the wood for the second. Don't know what router it is yet. It's my uncle's. I'll find out this weekend. We had a bit but I guess my dad picked up the wrong size or something so he has to take it back. I told him about the jasper jig and he said he would look out for one. Worth a shot. Prolly a good idea to get some Liquid Nails too while we're there, huh?

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The first things to be put together are attaching the 4" ribs to the internal braces and baffle and back, remember they are the 3/4" from the outside edge. The insulation will be one of the last things, this box is so big you can easily get inside it, the baffle and back go on last.

Ah, right. That makes sense. I think the front baffle and one of the sides will be the last panels I put on. Makes it easier to line the walls with insulation and to run the wires inside to where ever I decide to put the binding posts.

This all sounds gravy. I sure hope we source a circle jig here in town. Then I think I will really be able to get rolling. I wouldn't mind doing the internals circles out with just the router but I wanted to have it so the extra rings I have to makes are uniform.

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I got mail from Polk today, OMFG dude...8" id sono lined with 4" PVC, flaired out = 9"id 125" long port. This would put your box at about 707 liters @ 7.434hz
...

125 INCH port? Ahahahaa!

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And the data:

Good lord.
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post #87 of 398
6/8/07 at 12:54pm
if it has a pipe resonance = to a 9" x 125", it won't work, that would be ~50hz
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post #88 of 398
6/8/07 at 1:19pm
Thread Starter 
You lost me.
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post #89 of 398
6/8/07 at 5:46pm
Scott, I meant as an example your port 8" x 32"ish has it's "pipe" resonance somewhere around 160hz, right.

Well the PowerPort would make what is basically an 8" id port that's 47.3" long including 1.25" flairs, into a 9" id port 125" long. I'm trying to figure out which the pipe resonance is linked to, 8" x 47.3" or, 9" x 125". If it's it's the 9" x 125" that's BAD because the pipe resonance would be at ~50hz

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Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post

You lost me.
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post #90 of 398
6/10/07 at 4:28pm
Thread Starter 
PROGRESS....



All boards cut. No circles cut out, yet. We got this circle cutter from Lowes but it sucks-ass. More practice with that this week. Other than that, they are all cut. Outside and in. Some are off by a little bit but I think we'll be okay with the glue and clamps.

Should (hopefully) be slapping this together over this week and next.
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