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Official Samsung LN-TXX61F/65F/66F Owner's Thread III - with *updated* first post.

post #1 of 19611
Thread Starter 
LAST UPDATED: January 30, 2008.

*****THIS post will NO LONGER be UPDATED. READ this post BEFORE posting!*****

Latest known software firmware: 1037. October 30, 2007. (available for download here)
Latest known mainboard firmware: 1014.

Update: January 30, 2008

Please only (if you NEED to) update your firmware if your mainboard is a 1004, 1005, 1008, or 1009 revision. If you have a 1007, 1011 or above, DO NOT update your firmware, and please do not ask if you have the latest versions. As far as I'm aware, there are NO recurring issues with the 1007 or 1011-or-above mainboards.

Update: November 23, 2007

Firmware 1037 is now available for download for LN-T4x61 and LN-T4x65 sets.. Thanks to cxtran for procuring it!

Repeated from below:
Only attempt to upgrade your firmware if the first line is 1004, 1005, 1008, or 1009. This *new* 1007 (and 1011 and above..) is definitely an oddity we need to know more about before attempting any firmware upgrades.


Please read instructions detailed later in this post for how to install the update, and do so at your own risk

Download here:
http://www.nkkn.org/samsung/Tulip.zip


Update: September 26, 2007

It has come to my attention that there may be a new type of board revision floating around the LN-T line. Here is an example:



This looks quite different to the screen captures of my firmware in this thread. At this time please do NOT upgrade your firmware until we know more. Only attempt to upgrade your firmware if the first line is 1004, 1005, 1008, or 1009. This *new* 1007 (and 1011 and above) we need to know more about before applying firmwares to it.


Update: September 7, 2007

FIRMWARE 1035 for LN-T4x61 available for download now!

**NOTE**

Do not upgrade at this time if your firmware information looks anything like the image in the August 22nd update!
************************************************************ *************************


As before, this firmware has been tested on my LN-T4661F and applied with no problems. I make no promises this firmware will work with your TV, and as before, you use this at your own risk. It likely works with the 4x65 sets as well, as previous firmware have done so.

For instructions on how to install this, see the August 13, 2007 entry.

http://t*nyurl.com/2qvwwj (make sure to change the * into an "i")

Thank you to DarquePlague for hosting this, and for Trailkill for his acquisition of the firmware for us! As of this update, I know of no specific fixes that this firmware addresses.




Update: August 22, 2007

As suspected, firmware 1032 has been confirmed by many AVS forum-goers as working on the LN-T4x65F series, so this firmware 1032 is now for both LN-T4x61 and LN-T4x65 sets. No confirmation on the Best Buy-only LN-T4x66 sets as of yet. As always, you use any firmware at your own risk. Drive safely, and have a nice day.

Do not upgrade at this time if your firmware information looks anything like this:



Update: August 13, 2007

FIRMWARE 1032 for LN-T4x61 available for download now!

*** WARNING *** This is only for the 61 series 1080p 2007 Samsung LN-T series TVs. It may well work on the 65 series, but I make no guarantees it will [SEE August 22nd UPDATE]. I have tested this on my LN-T4661 and it works great. Who knows what it fixes. It certainly made my revision 1024 a larger number! So I gained +8 points on the firmware scale. It's worth it for that alone, right? Right? Right.

AS ALWAYS, you use this firmware at your own risk!

http://www.*******.com/2352l5

Replace the *s with t i n y u r l (but without the spaces.)

Instructions:

1.) Download the file.
2.) Use Winzip or Winrar to extract the enclosed file to your desktop or folder of your choice.
3.) Copy the extracted folder (called "Tulip") to a FAT32-formatted USB memory stick. You should then have a formatted USB memory stick with the Tulip folder in there.
4.) Turn your TV on.
5.) Plug the memory stick into your TV
6.) Go to the SETUP menu and run the update procedure.

**NOTE** Some larger-sized USB sticks (over 1GB) apparently need more power than the TV can give it. If it's not working with one type of USB drive, try another!

That's it!

Thank you to DarquePlague for hosting this file for me.

And here's my TV with the update applied:



Update: July 5, 2007

The HDMI crisis is now "officially" over. If you are STILL having HDMI issues as described in this post, you MUST get in contact with Samsung at 1-800-Samsung, options, 4, 1, 1 (apparently now 5, 1, 1, [thanks djparis]), and get a BOARD replacement for your set. For the most part, new LN-T TVs are shipping with 1008 mainboards or HIGHER, which should resolve the problem. If you are still having issues with 1008 boards, get it replaced (again). Apparently some boards can be finicky.

More and more people are getting board replacements that are fixing the HDMI issue, so I feel it's fair to call the crisis over.


Update: July 5, 2007

I can report that I had my main-board replaced (1004 board, with 1024 firmware) with a 1005 board with 1022 firmware. I'm happy to report that for my HDMI issues are now gone after several weeks of use with zero flashes/drops etc.

HOWEVER, it is still VERY possible to have a 1005 board with HDMI issues. The current official fix from Samsung is a 1008 board or higher, with 1024-or-higher firmware. There ARE several people who claim to have issues with 1008/1024 combinations, but I firmly believe another replacement is therefore needed. I also firmly believe there are 1008/1024 problematic boards out there, and 1008/1024 working boards. So hang in there folks!

(The bottom of this post explains the above numbers for the new people around these parts!)

Update: June 23, 2007

As fellow board member Sam Relishe has noticed, after a mainboard swap some of the settings might be wrong. I own an LN-T4661, and my replaced mainboard was set up for a LN-T4665. This meant the color palette was completely wrong (everything was red and orange and green), and I had a menu option to turn the blue light on and off (only the LN-T4x65 series has the blue light). The way to fix this is as follows:

(Make sure to make a note of your picture calibration settings, as mine were reset after going into the service menu)


With your TV off, press MUTE, 1, 8, 2, and then POWER

Then, choose the OPTION BYTE.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT MESS WITH ANY OTHER SETTINGS THAN THE ONES LISTED:

Make sure the SCREEN SIZE is correct: Panel Option = 46AMW for LN-T4665 displays, and 46AM for LN-T4661 displays.
Make sure that if you own an LN-T4x65 that your Lvds Tx Bit = 10bit.
Make sure if you own an LN-T4x61 that your Lvds Tx Bit = 8bit.
If you own an LN-T4x65, your should change your model so it says "Tulip Side."
If you own an LN-T4x61, you should change the model so it says "Tulip."

After changing these options, turn your TV off, and then on.

Update: June 22, 2007

One of our fellow AVS members, axmode, came across a way to check what firmware version you'll get, before you open the box! This might be a smart way to check before you buy the TV.

To check what firmware version you have
The 8th character in your S/N (pertinent to all 2007 LN-Txx6x models) is a letter P which stands for 2007. The 9th character which follows that letter P will be a number which denotes the months of assembly. For those of you who want to ensure having a 1024/1008 at the very least, that number should be a 6 at the very least (to be sure).
Axmode verified this with his own S/Ns and the 4665 which went back was a P4 (1016/1004). The current 4061 is a P5 (1024/1008). This info may help those of you who are considering a purchase through a big box store, prior to opening up the sets.


Thanks axmode!


Update: June 21, 2007

As of June Wednesday, June 20th, Tier 2 representatives at Samsung tech support have stated that the fix for ALL HDMI issues is a board replacement for those that do NOT have 1008 main boards with 1024 firmware. See the bottom of this post for instructions on how to check your version. Until we have confirmation from more people that this is the fix, this remains only SPECULATION on the part of the skeptical consumer. However, this is official and has been confirmed as the "fix" by several Tier 2 specialists.

Update: June 18, 2007. Fellow forum member dkwong has compiled a spreadsheet so we can keep track of who has what TV, and what firmware information and issues they are having. Thanks dkwong!

PLEASE send him any information you can so he can update his spreadsheet. You can view it here:

Samsung Spreadsheet



Update: June 15, 2007. 1028 is the latest firmware, with no confirmation of the HDMI issue being fixed.

Update: June 1, 2007. How to use an XBOX 360 with the VGA cable, to resolve the "Mode Not Supported" message:

1. Reset the resolution of the console to 640x480. To do this, start the console, hold both triggers, and then press and hold the Y button as the console starts. For more information about how to reset your display settings, click the following article number to view the article in the Microsoft Knowledge Base:
911059 (http://support.microsoft.com/kb/911059/) Xbox 360: How to reset the display settings to the default settings
2. If this resolves the issue and you receive a picture on the display, you can continue to use the 640x480 resolution. Or you can try to use a higher resolution setting. If this does not resolve the issue, continue to the next step.
3. Disconnect the VGA HD cable from the display, and then remove the console power cord from the power outlet.
4. Wait five seconds.
5. Reconnect the console power cord to the power outlet, and then turn on the console.
6. Reconnect the VGA HD cable to the display. If this resolves the issue and you receive a picture on the display, you can continue to use the 640x480 resolution. Or you can try to use a higher resolution setting.

----



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So this is the new *official* (merged) thread for the 2007 Samsung 1080p LCDs:

For previous posts on the 2007 Samsung 1080p LCDs, please refer to:
Owner's Thread I (3/15/2007 - 4/17/2007)
Owner's Thread II (4/17/2007 - 5/14/2007)

AND:
For picture quality settings of the LN-T series, please see the Calibration Settings thread.

***This thread is for news regarding the entire LN-Txxxx series.***

****Check this first post often for news, updates, and FIRMWARES for the LN-T line.****

Current news/what we know:

1.) The entire 2007 Samsung 1080p LCD lineup is suffering from HDMI handshake issues. This is the LN-Txxxx line. This is not just video-game related, but reported units giving trouble include the Playstation 3, XBOX 360 Elite, HTPCs, and various STBs. Also reports from people with drops/flashes:

"Mac Mini (Intel); PowerMac G4 DP (with a Radeon 9xxx(?) video card); Denon 2910 - upscaling (1080i) DVD Playler (this a pure HDMI connection)" - (courtesy of Ted Todorov)


1.b.) These issues manifest themselves as dropouts (picture loss), momentary green or pink flashes etc. These may not happen for hours and hours, and then suddenly you can get hit with two or three flashes/dropouts in a short time. There appears to be no rhyme or reason to the issue.

Here is an example of a dropped signal:



**THIS ISSUE IS NOW RESOLVED**

2.) Several tech people from Tier 1 and Tier 2 support said that Samsung ARE aware of the issue and are working to fix it. There is currently NO fix available.

3.) Design issues:

There are numerous reports of what is known as "clouding" or "mura." Nobody knows exactly what causes this, but it manifests itself as blotches of lighter areas on the screen or in the corners (corners are also known as "flashlights").

There are several reports of people wiping the area with a cloth from the cloud to the edge of the screen to remove the issue, but I can't verify this. To do this, grab a dry cloth and wipe the cloud fairly gently. If it moves, keep moving it!

Please refrain from asking questions about clouds, as this post should cover it. I personally understand the frustration of having had really bad clouds, but it bogs down the thread to discuss it ad nauseam. If you can't clear the clouds, and they actually bother you, exchange your set at your vendor. It is possible to get a completely cloud-free set, but don't drive yourself crazy. If you can't notice them during "normal" viewing, you've nothing to worry about!

Here is an example of clouds/mura:



3.b.) Another issue affecting these sets is something known as "pillaring." I personally haven't seen pillaring but it is visible as bands of light on the left and right of the screen. Apparently this can be fixed by properly calibrating your set: i.e. turning down brightness/contrast/backlight to NORMAL levels. If you have this problem, adjust your settings. If this doesn't fix it, return the set to your vendor. At this point, I believe it's simply calibration issues.

Here is an example of pillars:




4.) Some forum members are recommending HDMI port savers to take the strain off their TV's HDMI ports from the heavy cable connecting to your devices. Some have even said it fixed the handshaking issues they've been having but this is NOT proven as of yet (I can say they didn't help for me at all). You plug the port saver into your TV, and then your actual HDMI cable into it. I can speak only for myself when I say that port savers did NOT fix the handshaking issue.

Here's a picture of a port saver:





To check your firmware version, here are the instructions:

1. Turn on your TV.
2. Press the MENU button on your remote.
3. Select SETUP, and then press ENTER.
4. Select Function Help, and then press ENTER.
5. Use the Up or Down arrow button on your remote to move down to Function Help to ON, and then press the ENTER button.
6. With Function Help ON highlighted (don't actually push ENTER on it), press the INFO button on the remote. Your firmware revision will be listed as two lines of information. The TOP line is your software firmware. The BOTTOM line is the hardware revision number.

Here is my LN-T4661 with its firmware shown:



So, I have 1024 firmware (software), and 1004 hardware (mainboard).

Please send me a PM if you receive any information that might be useful to this post. If there is a newer firmware available, you might know before me, at which point I can request the firmware from my technician and be able to upload it for all of you to download. Your help is very important!

-----------------------------------------------------------
post #2 of 19611
here is earlier thread: merge is not working

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&#post10325265

please post here

Thanks
post #3 of 19611
Thread III already...

Good clear updated first post. I am waiting to buy until Samsung fixes this serious flaw.
post #4 of 19611
Ant_1,

my settings are for a 4665f
post #5 of 19611
I guess this is what you call Round III.
post #6 of 19611
damn

it has been a long ride

keep it up guys
post #7 of 19611
My purpose in this post is to report a possible HDCP dropout solution and to comment on some of the speculations about dropout cause.

Problems:
1. Immediately after install, flashlighting in the form of vertical pillars on either side of the screen were very evident. Adjustment and time made this problem bearable.

2. Loss of signal occurs upon intervals of between 2 and 40 minutes. Usually closer to 2 minutes. Not bearable, especially for my wife. No dropouts on component connection, but I was able to notice PQ degredation on component vs. HDMI.

Background:
My dropouts occur with a Motorola DCT5100 STB equipped with DVI out. I am using a DVI-HDMI cable.

Theory 1 - It's the set top box.
I have two other LCD TV's. Both have HDMI connections. Both function perfectly with the very same DCT5100 and DVI-HDMI cable with no dropouts or flashes. Also see the result of Theory 6 below.

Theory 2 - it's the DVI-HDMI cable
I have tried both AV DVI-HDMI cables and the top line Monster DVI-HDMI cable. No change.

Theory 3 - It's the cable connection
I have wiggled, supported, propped, pushed and otherwise manipulated all of the above cables. No change. Still dropouts.

Theory 4 - It's the firmware
A very helpful Samsung tech upgraded me to 1024 a week ago and I had a dropout within 2 seconds - with many more to follow.

Theory 5 - It's the audio signal on HDMI1
Disconnected all audio. Dropouts continued as before.

Theory 6 - It's the main board
It might be. My Samsung tech and I completed the mainboard change (firmware rev 1022) about 7 hours ago. Very straightforward procedure - took about 20 minutes. Not a dropout since. Its too early to declare victory, but it has been 5 hours longer than the longest previous interval between dropouts. Its still working fine as I type. I am very encouraged.

Unfortunately the flashlighting is back big time now. And this time I can't adjust it out no matter what I try. After reading some of the more recent posts I am about to get out my cloth and start polishing. I am not optimistic, however, since the flat panel hasn't changed, only the main board - maybe if I burn some incense....

For you Harmony owners - I got an email from their tech support today informing me of a major update for the entire LN-T line. It includes a new IR "language" and support for all discrete inputs, including HDMI2. I updated my Harmony and tried it and it all works! Turns out the database technician owns a LN-T4665F and he is very keen to get the database perfect.

Final comment - Amazon is a class act. I have kept them informed throughout the saga and they have reaffirmed their willingness to take back the TV even through the end of the 30th day.

If I have more dropouts, I will repost. Otherwise I will breath a great sigh of relief.
post #8 of 19611
this is, by far, the best 1080P LCD ATM.
post #9 of 19611
My New 5265 is being delivered on sat. Should I canel the order? i got a great deal from PC Richards and also took their 5yr warranty that they back not Samsung. Any thoughts Please give me some feedback I don't want to deal with a major problem on a New LCD that people on this forum are saying has major flaws. Thanks I appreciate any help.
post #10 of 19611
Thread Starter 
I just received my Monoprice HDMI port savers, for those that remember.

I will be testing them a little later tonight and will report back if it fixes the theoretical flashes/ dropouts-caused-by-loose-cabling. It's a theory that I'm very skeptical about, but I was willing to try it in the name of science!
post #11 of 19611
My opinion - I wouldn't cancel.

I mentioned that I have two other 1080p LCD's. Neither hold a candle to the 5265F. If this main board change continues to solve the HDCP problem you won't be able to pry this set out of here with a crowbar - in spite of the flashlighting.
post #12 of 19611
I had posted in the previous thread about experiencing ghosting with my PS3 over component (in any resolution except standard). I checked my SA 8300 Explorer HD box and my DVD player on every resolution they support on both component inputs on my LN-T4665F and couldn't replicate the problem. I tried different cables with the PS3, and even exchanged the PS3 itself with no success. The problem does not happen using HDMI, but all the other previously mentioned HDMI problems are plaguing me.

I'll likely be contacting Amazon within a few days to return my TV. It's beautiful for almost every other use, but I am a PS3 user and this is unfortunately a deal-breaker in that regard.
post #13 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

I just received my Monoprice HDMI port savers, for those that remember.

I will be testing them a little later tonight and will report back if it fixes the theoretical flashes/ dropouts-caused-by-loose-cabling. It's a theory that I'm very skeptical about, but I was willing to try it in the name of science!

My Monoprice HDMI port savers don't seem to fit the ends of my HDMI cable all the way - they only fit part way, leaving some of the gold end exposed. I'm not sure they're supposed to fit like that
post #14 of 19611
I just received my new 4065F this past Saturday, I've probably watched about 15 hrs on it so far. This evening I experienced two pink flashes so far, one on part of the screen and the other was the whole screen.
post #15 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by rishid View Post

Thread III already...

Good clear updated first post. I am waiting to buy until Samsung fixes this serious flaw.

Same here. I'm waiting to buy a set the moment a firmware that fixes the HDMI problem is released. Anyhow, wanted to say nice work with the post on the front page. I check the forums everyday for news on firmware, so this will save a lot of time.
post #16 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by punchwalk View Post

I had posted in the previous thread about experiencing ghosting with my PS3 over component (in any resolution except standard). I checked my SA 8300 Explorer HD box and my DVD player on every resolution they support on both component inputs on my LN-T4665F and couldn't replicate the problem. I tried different cables with the PS3, and even exchanged the PS3 itself with no success. The problem does not happen using HDMI, but all the other previously mentioned HDMI problems are plaguing me.

I'll likely be contacting Amazon within a few days to return my TV. It's beautiful for almost every other use, but I am a PS3 user and this is unfortunately a deal-breaker in that regard.


what brand of component did you use?
post #17 of 19611
I still have doubts about buying this tv it seems ir's luck of the draw with these units. I really want it but i could change to something less problematic?? If there is such a thing. i checked the Sharp and the sony and they also have there issues. What the heck is going on, can't they make a decent TV these days. I need to make a decision NOW before this thing is delivered.
post #18 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gort 100 View Post

My opinion - I wouldn't cancel.

I mentioned that I have two other 1080p LCD's. Neither hold a candle to the 5265F. If this main board change continues to solve the HDCP problem you won't be able to pry this set out of here with a crowbar - in spite of the flashlighting.

flashlighting should wipe away......and try my settings too...screen is black as can be.

Mode=Movie
Contrast=85
Brightness=42
Sharpness=25
Color=60
Tint=G50-R50
Backlight=3
Tone=Warm1
Black Adjust=low
Dynamic Contrast=off
Gamma=-1
Color Space=wide
White Balance=all 15
Color Control=all 15
Edge Enhancement=off
YvYcc=off

williamg !!!! whats the word on your port savers?
post #19 of 19611
Well, I am currently looking at this set only due to dealing w/ Samsung on the LED DLP HLT5689S that i currently have that was a replacement of a HLS5679(that wouldn't turn on). The last tech told me since i do see RBE on the LED set and that was a big thing w/ me. That i could ask to see if i can switch to another product. Since the set is advertised not to show RBE. Obviously i am seeing problems w/ the hdmi on this set, but would anyone else recommending try to swap out to one of these sets over another 5689S and hopes that it was just an issue with my set?
post #20 of 19611
would it be worth getting a tv that has 120hz as opposed to the 60hz that the samsungs have?
Would the human eye really be able to tell the difference? Thats the only thing that's making me think again about the tv. Otherwise its amazing, no clouding, 15,000:1 contrast.
Anyone know if i should just wait for a 120hz tv?
post #21 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilive27 View Post

Anyone know if i should just wait for a 120hz tv?

It's hard to say, not knowing the price of this summer's 120hz, and not knowing for certain whether the latest crop of LN-T series sets have fewer HDMI issues (more and more are reporting ZERO drop-outs).
post #22 of 19611
"For PS3 use, try holding down the power button for 5-10 seconds. It resets the video signal and "should" give you a picture over HDMI. I had to do that after I had only been using component at one point. "

-----

"is your cable box setup to output 480p-1080i via hdmi? 480i wont work.

try to boot the ps3 by holding the power button till it does the 2nd beep..this will tell the ps3 to restart with factory settings for video..you should then be able to see ps3 over hdmi."


Thanks for both of the replies, unfortuntately I've tried resetting the ps3 output a few times and it doesn't help (hdmi worked fine when connected to the sharp). I've tried setting the Tivo to both Hybrid (HD content at 720p or 1080i, 480i content upconverted to 480p) and Fixed (All content at 720p or 1080i) still no signal. Tonight I tried a third different cable.

Unless there is some tv setting I need to do to enable the 3 hdmi ports then I think the set it a lemon. Just dissapointing after dealing with the sharp banding issues to now run smack dab into some poor Samsung QC.
post #23 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilive27 View Post

would it be worth getting a tv that has 120hz as opposed to the 60hz that the samsungs have?
Would the human eye really be able to tell the difference? Thats the only thing that's making me think again about the tv. Otherwise its amazing, no clouding, 15,000:1 contrast.
Anyone know if i should just wait for a 120hz tv?

that's a question i'd like to know as well, i might wait it out for the 71's if this HDMI issue isn't resolved any time soon because i will be using my PS3 mainly on it and will get an HD box in the future
post #24 of 19611
well the thing is i do have the tv already and i can confidently say that i've had ZERO hdmi drop outs. Alot of the problems others are having, i have not had (pink/green flashes, drop outs etc).
My set doesn't have any clouds and the pillaring is totally gone as well with the settings that i like.
Only thing that bothers me is that in a month there will be a tv like this but with 120hz. I still have 3 weeks to return this tv, but i've been lucky with this set so far. I wonder if 120hz is a software thing or a hardware thing. Can we just update our firmware and have 120hz or is there much more to it? I wonder if i would really be able to tell the difference between a 60hz vs a 120hz set.
post #25 of 19611
Boy, I sure wish I hadn't went looking for a thread like this!

I just bought a LN-T5265F Sunday. My wife and I have been rearranging furniture around so we could set it up.

Hmmm... With all that I'm seeing here, should I just return this unit?

I could use some advise. What are the chances that there will be some simple user applied firmware fix?

When I buy, it I keep the equipment for a very, very, long time. The LN-T5265F is replacing my 1991 45" Mitsubishi rear projection TV. Which is still working great. My daughter now using it in her home for maybe another decade or so.
post #26 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norse View Post

what brand of component did you use?

I tried AR, a Sony PS3 one, some other random gaming brand, and a monster. The results were identical on both PS3 consoles.
post #27 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klips View Post

Boy, I sure wish I hadn't went looking for a thread like this!

I just bought a LN-T5265F Sunday. My wife and I have been rearranging furniture around so we could set it up.

With all that I'm seeing here, should I just return this unit?

I could use some advise. What are the chances that there will be some firmware fix and it be something that I can update?

I'd at least give it a shot. Some people have been getting lucky. As long as whichever seller you went with has a reasonable return policy, you should be ok to roll the dice.
post #28 of 19611
Thread Starter 
Port Saver update!

I watched some TV shows via my HTPC (connected by HDMI) and had no drops for an hour of watching before heading to bed (at which point I hop on here, of course! ). However, this means nothing at all, and I'll get to play some PS3/360 Elite tomorrow to give it a thorough going through, and will report back then.
post #29 of 19611
Guys, just wanted to let you know I recently added a Pioneer Elite VSX-84TSXi to my setup. I have all my HDMI devices (Yamaha S2500 DVD, Comcast/Motorola STB, and PS3) running through the Pioneer and I have the HDMI out running to HDMI 1 on my LN-T4665F. So far, I noticed two signal drops while watching a HD trailer on PS3. So much for the theory of using the receiver to get better handshake timing...fortunately, nothing is behaving any WORSE than it did before getting the receiver.
post #30 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Klips View Post

Boy, I sure wish I hadn't went looking for a thread like this!

I just bought a LN-T5265F Sunday. My wife and I have been rearranging furniture around so we could set it up.

Hmmm... With all that I'm seeing here, should I just return this unit?

I could use some advise. What are the chances that there will be some simple user applied firmware fix?

When I buy, it I keep the equipment for a very, very, long time. The LN-T5265F is replacing my 1991 45" Mitsubishi rear projection TV. Which is still working great. My daughter now using it in her home for maybe another decade or so.

That all depends on what you are looking for and what your expectations are. If you are looking for a 1080p LCD you will be hard-pressed to find a better overall model, despite the pillar defect and the HDMI issues. CNET recently rated the 4665 an 8.3 overall, the best flat panel LCD they have reviewed, and that includes the flagship Sony models. With some decent screen calibration, you should be able to hide the uneven backlighting issue, and the HDMI issue really isn't that much of a hassle IMHO. It seems like Samsung will eventually issue a firmware fix for them. On the other hand, if you think you may instead want to go with a plasma instead, I would probably return it and look to see whats available.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › LCD Flat Panel Displays › Official Samsung LN-TXX61F/65F/66F Owner's Thread III - with *updated* first post.