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Official Samsung LN-TXX61F/65F/66F Owner's Thread III - with *updated* first post. - Page 3

post #61 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

I wouldn't be surprised if replacing the mainboards, though, put *some* form of pressure on the screen from having the LCD face down.

Beyond that, I thought these TV's were supposed to be assembled in highly-controlled environments, virtually eliminating dust, lint, and other air-born artifacts. I have a dog...heaven knows the air in my home isn't suitable for re-assembling a $3K TV.

Check out this video, about 39 seconds in: http://www.samsung.com/PressCenter/p...05/lcd_eng.mpg
post #62 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwh131 View Post

I am in the market for a 50+ inch 1080p TV and have been considering the Samsung 5265, Sharp 52D92U and now the Panasonic 50 or 58PZ700U. I would really like to hear your impressions of the plasma against the LCD after you have had time to fine tune the image. Things I would be interested in include;

Screen reflectivity
Shadow detail
Black level
Ability to deal with fast motion
Overall image quality

Thanks in advance,
David.


If you arent using a pc for hours on end with the display like myself, get the panasonic plasma. I just had the 50 ich pz700u and will say its the best picture I have ever owned. Simply amazing. If I didnt use my display as a computer monitor, I would have kept it instead of this 4665f sammy.


Screen reflectivity - pretty even with 4665f sammy
Shadow detail - both do great job.
Black level - again both are great. Less grain on panny
Ability to deal with fast motion - panny way better
Overall image quality - the panny was better. But sammy 4665f is holding its own. Just shows too much graininess with lower quality broadcasts in hd and sd.
post #63 of 19611
In addition to port saver, an attractive and inexpensive option is the Apple XtremeHD HDMI cable. It's thin (read: light weight) yet works just as well as, if not better than it's thicker, monstrous brethens. At only $20, it's a steal IMO.

The big question is whether its whitish/grey color goes well with your all-black home entertainment decor...
post #64 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by komari View Post

Beat me to the punch! I was really hoping the the mainboard replacement would to the trick - but also worried about the new lighting issues!

Norse, Gort100 and anyone else with a HDMI problem free set - could you first confirm that you have the same mainboard number (I'm assuming it is the second line in the Firmware info). From tracking these threads I think the trouble free reports began with number 1005. It appears that the firmware itself doesn't do the trick.

Gort1000 - please let us know if you can tweak your settings to get rid of the pillars using Norse's settings.


Here is mine.

T-TULPAUS0-1022 MAR 20 2007 15:13:55
T-TULPAUS5-1005 CS[F552][46(AMW)-INCH]

Still no hdmi issues. knock on wood
post #65 of 19611
Anyone have any issues while connecting the pc via vga on their sets? I noticed today while looking at the sprint.com website i noticed some shadows or i guess "ghosting" on some of the letters. I also notice on my desktop icons some shadow or "ghosting." I have a blank black screen with the desktop icons. Is this just my video card (Geforce 4 TI4200) or my tv? I don't seem to have this issue on other devices like my STB or dvd player.
post #66 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamG View Post

UPDATED: May 15, 2007.

*****THIS post will be UPDATED. READ this post BEFORE posting!*****

Latest firmware: 1024, April 6, 2007

Is the 1024 firmware universal to all the LN-TXX6XF models? In thread II, I seem to recall people having different firmware verisons with the various models.

I just called Samsung to inquire about firmware updates for LN-T4661F and the person said there were no updates for it yet. I'm not sure how accurate his information is since he couldn't tell me what the current level was, only that there was no update for it. My firmware is:

T-TULPAUS0-1009, Feb 16 2007 11:17:30
T-TULPAUS5-1002 CS[A67D] [46(AM)-inch]
post #67 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheldon111 View Post

I do notice slight pixilation during sports...basketball, golf (when the camera follows the ball) and concerts (strobe lights and light effects)...

As other posters pointed out, the problem is at the broadcast source. You also see some serious pixellation in the opening shots of Late Show with Conan O'Brien where they have some fast action (Max W. playing the drums) and strobe lights. This is because broadcasters have to squeeze a lot of content into a confined bandwidth (~20mbps bitrate) using a compression format that's very old and not very efficient.

I hate to break it to you would-be HDTV newbies: I think OTA HDTV is already outdated before it becomes common. What HDTV newbies are saying about SDTV, in that how crappy SDTV looks when compared to HDTV, early adopters of Blu-Ray and HDDVD are saying same about OTA HDTV (OK, OK, it's just my opinion ). In Japan, they are experimenting with a new format that blows Blu-Ray/HDDVD out of the water.
post #68 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by orangedrone View Post

I think the clouding issues out-weigh the HDMI handshaking issues and could be more influencial on potential buyers as well...

UPDATE: The wiping method did nothing for my clouds, as I hoped it would... Maybe it's time for a 5th set from BB.

It does get rather ridiculous, but bottom line... a 3K LCD TV should not be a headache... And further, a 3K LCD TV should just make you happy and suck you in to it's greatness... after all... it cost freaking 3K!!!

Sorry to hear that. Like I said my set was initial cloud free out of the box but only after lying it face down did one appear. Maybe it's a different "type" (in the way it developed) of cloud.
post #69 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by guima View Post

this is, by far, the best 1080P LCD ATM.

That's pathetic -- if true. Between the HDMI issue & flashlighting (I've got it too -- upper & lower right corners), these sets are an utter hunk of junk. I find it very difficult to believe that this is the best thing out there.

What about the 120Hz displays -- aren't they better by definition?

And certainly a monitor like the (3 year old?) 30" Apple Cinema Display (which has a way higher than 1080P resolution -- 2560 x 1600) has a totally even lighting level from end to end, not to mention properly adjusted colors, etc., out of the box. It is not impossible to build a defect free, elegant device that ships with properly calibrated color, contrast, etc. settings by default. Somebody just needs to do it -- Samsung has obviously failed miserably.
post #70 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by orangedrone View Post

Did you use them on both ends or just the ones going into the back of the TV???

Just the end that goes into the TV.

My main benchmark/tests is my SA 8300 HD box, which I regularly noticed the dropouts before.
post #71 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwh131 View Post

I am in the market for a 50+ inch 1080p TV and have been considering the Samsung 5265, Sharp 52D92U and now the Panasonic 50 or 58PZ700U. I would really like to hear your impressions of the plasma against the LCD after you have had time to fine tune the image. Things I would be interested in include;

Screen reflectivity
Shadow detail
Black level
Ability to deal with fast motion
Overall image quality

Thanks in advance,
David.

I am also very interested in this comparison. Appreciated if some one could throw more light on this.
post #72 of 19611
Hell yes this is the best lcd available...ive got no clouding, no flashlighting, no banding, very minor handshaking, once every few hours i get a flash maybe...you simply wont find an lcd that beats these in PQ right now. Samsung far from failed on these, but they do need to get these handshaking issues worked out. However, they are issues every other lcd has, even my olevia had handshaking issues, the problem is the newer hdmi technology, not these lcd's. I noticed most of the original owners and posters from thread 1 are no longer around, they are probably sick of hearing all this bs.
post #73 of 19611
Has anyone been able to correctly color calibrate these sets? I've been using DVE to calibrate mine and haven't been able to get the greens to come out right (the blues and reds are pretty close). The DVE documentation indicates that this might be an issue with the color decoder.
post #74 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by gazebo View Post

As other posters pointed out, the problem is at the broadcast source. You also see some serious pixellation in the opening shots of Late Show with Conan O'Brien where they have some fast action (Max W. playing the drums) and strobe lights. This is because broadcasters have to squeeze a lot of content into a confined bandwidth (~20mbps bitrate) using a compression format that's very old and not very efficient.

I hate to break it to you would-be HDTV newbies: I think OTA HDTV is already outdated before it becomes common. What HDTV newbies are saying about SDTV, in that how crappy SDTV looks when compared to HDTV, early adopters of Blu-Ray and HDDVD are saying same about OTA HDTV (OK, OK, it's just my opinion ). In Japan, they are experimenting with a new format that blows Blu-Ray/HDDVD out of the water.

I have my HD through Explorer 8300HDPVR box.

Gazebo, in your opinion would holding out for the 71 Series or picking up a Sharp D82U with 120Hz improve the situation of macroblocking?
post #75 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkwong View Post

Has anyone been able to correctly color calibrate these sets? I've been using DVE to calibrate mine and haven't been able to get the greens to come out right (the blues and reds are pretty close). The DVE documentation indicates that this might be an issue with the color decoder.

There's a calibration thread for these sets, but which mode are you using? bmrowe stated that to get closest to 6500k you need to be in movie mode on warm2 setting. Im using warm1, mainly becuase i cant stand the whites not being white.
post #76 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoman504 View Post

There's a calibration thread for these sets, but which mode are you using? bmrowe stated that to get closest to 6500k you need to be in movie mode on warm2 setting. Im using warm1, mainly becuase i cant stand the whites not being white.

I'm using movie mode with normal colors right now. I did try using the other 4 color temperatures, but none of them fixed the problem.
post #77 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkwong View Post

I'm using movie mode with normal colors right now. I did try using the other 4 color temperatures, but none of them fixed the problem.

have u tried adjusting the white balance controls
post #78 of 19611
I'd be scared to see how much a 40+ inch Apple Cinema Display would cost. I was originally planning on getting the 30 inch only to see that its been at the same price point for however many years now. Sorry to you all who have flashlighting, I guess I'm super lucky to have a perfectly uniform screen as well as having perfect HDMI ports (no more flashing) once I put in the port savers. As a side note for the port savers, you probably need to work with these to ensure you have the best fit possible. I think it was in the first thread that someone mentioned that every time they 'bumped' their HDMI cable, they would get a flash.


Also, do we even know if there are any sets out there of any brand that have HDMI 1.3 ports and do not have any issues? I saw the video of the Westinghouse that continued to 'blink' but didn't really look for any sets that actually had 1.3 working flawlessly.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Todorov View Post

That's pathetic -- if true. Between the HDMI issue & flashlighting (I've got it too -- upper & lower right corners), these sets are an utter hunk of junk. I find it very difficult to believe that this is the best thing out there.

What about the 120Hz displays -- aren't they better by definition?

And certainly a monitor like the (3 year old?) 30" Apple Cinema Display (which has a way higher than 1080P resolution -- 2560 x 1600) has a totally even lighting level from end to end, not to mention properly adjusted colors, etc., out of the box. It is not impossible to build a defect free, elegant device that ships with properly calibrated color, contrast, etc. settings by default. Somebody just needs to do it -- Samsung has obviously failed miserably.
post #79 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheldon111 View Post

I have my HD through Explorer 8300HDPVR box.

Gazebo, in your opinion would holding out for the 71 Series or picking up a Sharp D82U with 120Hz improve the situation of macroblocking?


macroblocking is the source, not the tv you are viewing it on. The cable companies are compressing the hdtv too much at times. It wont matter what Hz you have.
post #80 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoman504 View Post

have u tried adjusting the white balance controls

I spent a few minutes in that menu but I didn't see much change. I pretty much had the color bar calibration image on screen and the green tinted see-through thingie pasted to my eyes while mucking with the white balance controls the whole time. What I would always see is 2 black squares and 10 green squares of varying intensity, unlike the red and blue where I would see 3 black squares and 3 red or blue squares that are very close in intensity.
post #81 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkwong View Post

I spent a few minutes in that menu but I didn't see much change. I pretty much had the color bar calibration image on screen and the green tinted see-through thingie pasted to my eyes while mucking with the white balance controls the whole time. What I would always see is 2 black squares and 10 green squares of varying intensity, unlike the red and blue where I would see 3 black squares and 3 red or blue squares that are very close in intensity.

I tried using the hd-dvd dve to adjust my settings, altho the hd side kept freezin on my hp hd-dvd laptop. Using the tinted screens i couldnt see any difference, so i decided to adjust it using a 1080 source. It def changes the colors, you could also try the tint control, i think i had to move my tint to the green side, 54G - 46R, i think.
post #82 of 19611
damn, this set does blacks like nobody's business....the more I watch the more impressed I am...whatever sammy did to improve blacks on this set should be made available to the competition cause its that frickin good.
post #83 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoman504 View Post

Hell yes this is the best lcd available...ive got no clouding, no flashlighting, no banding, very minor handshaking, once every few hours i get a flash maybe...you simply wont find an lcd that beats these in PQ right now. Samsung far from failed on these, but they do need to get these handshaking issues worked out. However, they are issues every other lcd has, even my olevia had handshaking issues, the problem is the newer hdmi technology, not these lcd's. I noticed most of the original owners and posters from thread 1 are no longer around, they are probably sick of hearing all this bs.

Which model do you own?
post #84 of 19611
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wallst32 View Post

Is the 1024 firmware universal to all the LN-TXX6XF models? In thread II, I seem to recall people having different firmware verisons with the various models.

I just called Samsung to inquire about firmware updates for LN-T4661F and the person said there were no updates for it yet. I'm not sure how accurate his information is since he couldn't tell me what the current level was, only that there was no update for it. My firmware is:

T-TULPAUS0-1009, Feb 16 2007 11:17:30
T-TULPAUS5-1002 CS[A67D] [46(AM)-inch]

From what I read in the previous thread (see first post for links to previous thread), the firmware is universal. I can only say it worked for my 4661. The Samsung technician was wrong when he said there are no updates for the 4661, since 1024 is an official firmware dated April 6. I find the techs at Samsung utterly clueless for the most part.
post #85 of 19611
Has one tried setting the power on/power off timers on the set?

I think there might be a bug in the firmware that does not allow you to change the input source of when you power on, it seems when you try to change the option from the default TV tuner, you get a strange "Scanning USB" message and then an error message.

If you guys need me to post more details (exact steps) please let me know and I will post tonight.
post #86 of 19611
There have been multiple references to a calibration thread for these LCDs but I've been unable to find it looking through the "Display Calibration" menu. I'm embarrased, but can someone please post the link or tell me how to find it? Thanks.
post #87 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by nirvash View Post

I'd be scared to see how much a 40+ inch Apple Cinema Display would cost. I was originally planning on getting the 30 inch only to see that its been at the same price point for however many years now.

That is simply untrue. The price of the 30" Apple Cinema Display has had several drops, and with the most recent lists for $1799 (lower with educational discount, etc.) And I would be more than happy to pay a premium for a 40" Apple Cinema Display knowing that *it would just work*

Quote:
Originally Posted by nirvash View Post

Also, do we even know if there are any sets out there of any brand that have HDMI 1.3 ports and do not have any issues? I saw the video of the Westinghouse that continued to 'blink' but didn't really look for any sets that actually had 1.3 working flawlessly.

I'll take your word for there not being any 100% perfect HDMI 1.3 ports out there. But knowing this, they could have given us one plain vanilla DVI port.

To see the difference between the Apple and Samsung approach to things, look at David Pogue's review of various brands of pre-N wireless routers -- Apple's new Airport Extreme works beautifully while most of its competitors (there is one exception) are a joke. Yes, some are cheaper. BUT THEY DON'T WORK... If you can't build a working HDMI 1.3 interface, than don't sell one -- why is that so difficult to understand? If you are concerned about future-proofing your product, make your ports upgradable.

So far as as using "port savers" my HDMI connectors appear to fit very snugly. I've heard of various ways to alleviate the Samsung's HDMI problems (receivers, port savers, etc.), but sorry, I am expecting my fancy LCD to work as is. I must be unreasonable, but I've spent too many years buying Apple, Denon & Sony (back when Sony was a reliable brand) products to adjust to the new paradigm.
post #88 of 19611
Quote:
Originally Posted by kepes56 View Post

There have been multiple references to a calibration thread for these LCDs but I've been unable to find it looking through the "Display Calibration" menu. I'm embarrased, but can someone please post the link or tell me how to find it? Thanks.

Probably would be a good addition to the first post of this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=828228
post #89 of 19611
For those that have had success in resolving HDMI or pink/green/yellow/etc. flashing issues using port savers...

Specifically which ones are you using? I've seen two different types on monoprice.com, for example - the ones that basically look like hdmi cord extenders and the others that are single-piece (no cord) that almost look like an adaptor.

Thanks.
post #90 of 19611
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Transcend View Post

Probably would be a good addition to the first post of this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=828228


Noted, and first page updated!
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