Official Samsung LN-TXX61F/65F/66F Owner's Thread III - with *updated* first post. - Page 27

sorry if this was answered already but make sure you adjust you refresh rate on your videocard. My nvidia 7950 GX2 would not show up until I told it to refresh at 60hz. I had to go into the advanced display properties and show all supported modes. Only then could I change the refresh rate to 60. Try this and let me know. I think most PC to HDMI issues (aside from a junk card) have to do with widows or the driver forcing a different refresh rate than the panel can handle... GL

Folks, Amazon is delaying my order, and moved my shipping date up to June 11th. I guess they are really sold out.

Sorry ...

LN-T5265F

T-TULPAUS0-1024, Apr 6 2007 10:05:46
T-TULPAUS5-1008 CS[0A46][52(AMW)-inch)

Settings:

Mode=Movie
Contrast=85
Brightness=42
Sharpness=25
Color=60
Tint=G50-R50
Backlight=5
Tone=Warm1
Black Adjust=low
Dynamic Contrast=low
Gamma=-1
Color Space=Auto
White Balance=all 15
Color Control=all 15
Edge Enhancement=off
YvYcc=off
DNR and DNIe: Off
Energy Saving=Medium
HDMI Black=Low

Scientific Atlanta 8300HD
Oppo DV 981HD
Onkyo DX-C390 CD Changer
Dennon AVR 1906
Harmony 880 Remote

Both the SciAtl 8300 and the Oppo are connected via HDMI. The SciAtl 8300 on HDMI2 and the Oppo on HDMI1.


I'm not a gamer so the PS3/X360 problems discussed don't impact me.

Some of us who have been on the LN-T thread since the very beginning have seen some great SD shots already. I was also concerned about this and lankobean posted a lot of shots on his 5265F which helped settle my concerns. I have the exact same STB set up as his - SA8300 feeding native resolutions (480p/720p/1080i). These sets don't accept 480i over HDMI so have to disable that in the STB setup, then STB upconverts SD channels to 480p. I tried letting the STB do all the converting to 1080i, but don't think the scaller/deinterlacer is better than on the TV since the results were horrible.

I have not had a chance to really sit and take pictures since getting my set (4061F), but will try soon and also post settings. We all know that these sets can do HD superbly, but SD is nowhere as bad as I had been led to believe. In fact, on some channels it is better than on my old CRT TV.

if i stop using the hdmi cable and use the green, blue, red, white cable will i lose picture quality? will it still be 1080p? the dropouts are really annoying and i will call samsung to complain.....there seems to be no fix at the moment, do you people think this situation can be fixed? the dropout situation that is!

Hey all,

I ordered a 5265 from Soundsaround a few days ago. I'll let you know when it arrives (hopefully end of the week). I'm curious to see the mainboard / firmware #'s when it comes.

Thanks for all the great info so far. My friend just got the 4061 and I was trying my PS3 on it and experienced 3 or 4 handshake dropouts during the course of MI:3 on Bluray. Now I know what to look for and do if/when it happens to me. Keep up the good work!

Located in Calgary, AB, Canada - for those of you curious to see how the Canadian distribution / Samsung CA is handling the issues.

You will lose the sets ability to eliminate overscan with the just scan option over hdmi and you will only get 1080i for blu-ray movies over component, but 1080p for video downloads and games that support 1080p.

I'm thinking of going back to component to get rid of the drop-outs until the handshaking issue is fixed. Still waiting for the tech to stop by and I called last thursday.

Apparently the XX65s will take 1080p through component(green, blue, red), you just need to make sure that the device you are sending the signal from is capable of outputting 1080p over component.

From what I've read from this thread and the two before it, it seems like the best bet right now is to ask for a board replacement. There's been speculation that it's firmware related, but there are too many inconsistencies from posters to really say for certain. What we have seen is that everyone who had a problem who called in and asked for a board change has reported that their problems have been fixed...so far. I'd say keep complaining and see if someone will come out and swap out your board.

This is probably a stupid question, however I was wondering how these sammy's compare to a GWII or GWIII?

I own a 50" GWII which is in my living room, and I've never really had problems with it besides maybe bad sd quality, I was wondering comparing the GWII with the sammy's does the sammy beat it on every level?

Again this was probably a stupid question but I own one so i'm hoping the sammy that i ordered is a much higher quality set, and maybe you guys could insure me :P

Sorry, I dont know what a GWII or GWIII are off the top of my head. lol

I ordered mine on the 22nd and my shipping date has not changed, it is still May 30, 2007 - June 6, 2007 with a delivery date of June 6, 2007 - June 15, 2007. Vague but still set in stone.

oh sorry, a GWII and GWIII were the rptv lcd's before lcos from sony. Maybe 2002, Im guessing the technology has gone much furthur, Im just paranoid and want to be sure.

Or maybe an easier question to awnser how do they compare to lcos which is a bit more up to date :P.

I have noticed that I get overscan when viewing my non-HD content on my SA8300HD using the "Just Scan" option. When I mean non-HD i mean our local channels in my area (Austin,TX) we have a digital channel for all of the local channels and I mainly watch all content from my local channels in digital form. For example, when I was watching Extreme HomeMakover on ABC I noticed overscan at the top of the screen. When I use 16:9 it completely eliminates the overscan. Is there a big difference in using Just Scan over 16:9?

Actually i've been wondering, what are the advantages that an LCD like the sammy have over the best dlp's at this moment?

I always see plasmas compared with lcd's but I can never find a good article or thread talking about DLP's vs LCD's, can someone fill me in?


Edit: Now I'm really getting worried everywhere I go to look up lcd's vs dlp's they say the dlp's have about same picture quality but just have less mobility and less viewing angle, mobility and viewing angle are not problems at all for me, the reason I went out and bought an lcd was because I thought LCD's would have much greater picture quality then a dlp projection. Then I look up more and dlp's have better motion response also, did I make the wrong choice here? PLEASE someone tell me im wrong, My sammy is on the way I don't want to regret it .

dlps have a bulb and moving parts. you will probably have to replace the bulb in 2-4 years and the bulb isnt cheap (200-400$). dlps arent as slim as they are projection units. im not sure but i think you'll have overscan with dlp as well.

When comparing DLP's to LCD's is like comparing apples to bowling balls. LCD's are that much better IMHO.

I'm confused, are apples better or are bowling balls better?

Ditto

It's comparing two different things. Hence not apples with apples.

I guess my point was that some people will prefer DLP's while others will prefer LCD's, just as some people will prefer apples while others will prefer bowling balls. A blanket statement that "LCD's are that much better" does not apply to everyone.

Flat panels are sexier.

i agree...so can anyone help me out with my previous post question?

EDIT: Post #793 was where i asked my question

TV - 4065F
T-TULPAUS0-1016, Mar 5 2007 12:33:07
T-TULPAUS5-1004 CS[E3BB] [40(AMW)-inch]

Source - Samsung HD841 Upconverting DVD player
Source2 - Thinkpad T60 DVI output
Connection - DVI (Source) -> HDMI 1 (TV) using a DVI -> HDMI converter.

Random handshake and green flashes happens with any DVD I watch. Doing simple word processing and web surfing on the laptop also show the same issues.

Verification of faulty source and HDMI converter was done using the LNS4096D. No handshake issue with the same source, cable, converter and DVD.

there is a ps3 update tommorow adding a couple of new features.. lets hope something is done..

I have 1016 / 1004 and I have not had much handshaking issues with the ps3.

I does happen but its really nothing to freak out about. also the display resseting of the PS3 by holding down the on switch. does seem to help.

PS3 firmware tomorrow will allow 1080p upconversion on all SD-DVD's and PS2 and PS games. Looks like the best news in a while. Hopefully it does a decent job of it.

Usually there would be slight overscan in 16:9 mode and non in Just Scan - so your set seems to be operating differently? How is the signal being fed to the TV from the STB? Is the STB upconverting everything to 1080i then sending it to the TV? If so maybe the processing is introducing the overscan as it just takes the original 480i signal which by design has overscan. I don't know why setting it to 16:9 would eliminate the overscan thought? It could be due to the TV resizing the image to 16:9 (squishing and stretching) which ends up displaying the entire picture. Do you have black bars on the sides of your non-HD channels?

On my set I cannot activate Just Scan on a SD channel (or any 480p signal). I have the same STB and set it to output 480p for non-HD channels and the TV automatically changes to 4:3, and HD channels are 16:9 (got bothered enough with the signal noise in Just Scan mode).

Well, the technician just left my house, after doing a main board swap on my Samsung 4665F. It takes all of about 5 minutes to do - a monkey could do it.

Here's my information

Before board swap:

T-TULPAUS0-1016, Mar 5 2007 12:33:07
T-TULPAUS5-1004 CS[E3BB][46(AMW)-inch]

After board swap:

T-TULPAUS0-1022, Mar 20 2007 15:13:55
T-TULPAUS5-1005 CS[F552][46(AMW)-inch]

My equipment:

PS3 (v 1.7) on HDMI 2 - 1080p - optical audio
Motorola dish box DSR505HD - DVI to HDMI cable - sharing HDMI 1 (runs through receiver) - 1080i all - optical audio
Sony 75H upconverting DVD player - sharing HDMI 1 (runs through receiver) - 1080i - coaxial audio
Xbox 360 Pro - component 1 - 1080p - optical audio

This is the same setup (inputs) as before the board swap...

It's really to early to tell if my green flashes have been fixed, but I have noticed two things since the swap.

1) The scanline I had on the Xbox 360 dash is gone now
2) The PS3 in 1080P on HDMI 3 is still flickering/jumping/blanking etc (no change from previous board).

It's important to note that my PS3 only screws up in 1080p and only on HDMI 3. HDMI 1 or 2 are fine except for the VERY occasional green flash. It also seems to take about 10 minutes from when you turn on the PS3 and the TV, till the screen starts to jump around etc. The TV seems to have to warm up somehow before it goes crazy. We waited it out (the technician and I) and sure enough it started to do it even with the new board on HDMI 3.

The technician's solution - use HDMI 1 or 2 for PS3 or drop the PS3's output resolution to 1080i.

So the 1005 boards aren't the solution to the HDMI issues. Again, it's HDMI3 that is the problem for me with the PS3 @ 1080p. If you use HDMI 1/2 you may not see an issue if your TV is anything like mine. You also need to wait for about 10 minutes on HDMI 3 @ 1080p for the jumping to exhibit itself with the PS3.

I took a bunch of photos of the old 1004 board (if anyone wants them), but unfortunately, I didn't get any photos of the 1005 board (the swap was done so fast).

Edit: I did just noticed that there is another small board for the side inputs (HDMI 3) on the TV that I suppose could be the source of the problems?

Just curious, was the tech able to complete the swap while the TV was standing upright the whole time, or did they have to lay it down?

The scanline problem with the 360/component/1080p is a fault with the board. It's not something that's "corrected" with firmware. Anyone who has this should replace their board.

I am posting this to add to the collective information on the green/pink flash issue, and to make public an email discussion I have been having with WilliamG.

BASELINE HISTORY: Like most others, I have been experiencing the green/pink flash issue. Some have called this issue the HDMI handshake issue. For my experience, I was only getting a quick total screen flash of either green or pink, maybe just one frame, who knows but it was quick. I did not ever get any complete signal drops as some have described. Frequency wise, I was getting maybe one flash every hour and a half watching my SciAtl 8300HD from Time Warner, and a flash every 15 minutes or so with my Dell XPS 410 media center PC. The flashes using the media center PC were the most annoying. I have the 8300 HD connected in HDMI 1, and the PC in HDMI 2 with a DVI to HDMI cable from a NVIDIA GeForce 8600 GTS graphics card. Finally, when I checked my FW on the TV, this is what I saw.

T-TULPAUS0-1016, Mar 5 2007
T-TULPAUS5-1004 CS[E3BB] [52(AMW)-inch]

ACTION TAKEN: I called Samsung, and got the same feeling as most that they just didn't know as much as we collectively do about this issue. After talking to them for a few minutes they had me schedule a service tech to come out to the house.

SERVICE PROVIDED: My service tech came out to the house after we talked on the phone about the issue, and brought a new main board, and the latest FW with him on a USB key. I will provide the detailed steps of what he did so I can try to avoid follow up questions.

1. He swapped the main boards...during this procedure he was confident in his response that the second line in that FW info thing from the menu is NOT the version of the main board. More specifically, he showed me the part number on the bag that the board came in. He showed me that the PN of the board in my TV, and the one in the bag were the same exact PN EXCEPT for the letter at the end of the part number. The letter at the end of my board PN that came in my TV that arrived in early April was C, the letter at the end of the board PN that was from the service stock was F. Another criticial point here was that info stickers on the bag that the board from service stock came in had a date, and it was either 4/17/07, or 5/17/07...sadly I can't remember, and this was the one thing that I didn't write down when he was here. Even with the date unclear, the letter at the end of the PN is more important I believe. Am I credible on all of this, yes. The service stock board came in a SEALED baggie that I cut open myself. Also, I work for a major computer company, and I used to work with Samsung doing printers...I know from my job two years back that in the Samsung configuration management system that they version their parts with letters at the end of their part numbers. Yes, I am a little upset that I forgot to write down the date on the stickers of the bag...I am positive it was one of the two dates listed above.

2. We checked the FW info from the menu after the board was replaced. The info on the screen was as follows...I couldn't remember every character, but I got the numbers that are commonly used on this board when discussing this issue. Yes, even though there are some question marks there...the numbers that are not question marks are accurate...I didn't want to make the tech stop just because I am complete detail oriented shall we say.

T-TULPAUS0-1023, ??? ? 2007
T-TULPAUS5-1004 CS[????] [52(AMW)-inch]

3. He upgraded the FW to what he said was the most recent version using his USB key, and here was the FW information from the menu after that was done.

T-TULPAUS0-1024, Apr 6 2007
T-TULPAUS5-1004 CS[0A46] [52(AMW)-inch]

HIS OPINION: He said he "talked to an engineer" and that they knew about the issue...the engineer told him that they will have a new FW at a later date, the engineer even said it may not be for a month or two until a new FW comes that fixes the issue. I am not sure I believe all of this just because I am seeing people on this thread saying that the issue is gone after their board/FW upgrade. His opinion based on his information was that either the new board/FW will fix the issue, or that it is the components. He stated that these new TVs are designed to be optimized for HDMI 1.3. He said that either it is the input devices, implying that if I had a cable box pushing through HDMI 1.3 that it might go away. I am not really sure I believe this because 1.3 is just the pipe, I am not sure that the protocol is really changing that much from 1.1/1.2 to 1.3. My opinion is that either the board or the FW or both need to be updated to fix the issue, and I am not even convinced if it is out yet.

SUMMARY: I got my main board upgraded from C to F being the version letter at the end of the part number that itself was the same on both boards. The replacement board was dated at least as late as 4/17, and maybe as late as 5/17, not sure. Please note that even though my board got upgraded, ostensibly to the most recent version, that the lower line in the FW info in the menu DID NOT change after the board swap, or the FW upgrade he did from the USB key. He did not know what that lower line was, but the top number is definitely the FW version as we have been discussing. I got my FW upgraded from 1016 to 1024, but we stopped in the middle at 1023 as that is was came on the main board...then went to 1024 off of a USB key.

GOING FORWARD: I will monitor my situation to see if I get the flashes anymore...I should know in 24hrs from now. I will post again here at the latest tomorrow afternoon after I get home from work. For the community, we are accurate when describing FW version, but are probably not accurate when noting the second line in the info from the menu as the board version. I am not positive of this...one way to check would be for someone that has 1005 or 1008 down there in the second line of the menu info to open their TV, and check the letter at the end of the part number for their main board. If your letter is something way later in the alphabet than F, then somehow I may have actually recieved an old service stock board even though he said it showed up last week. I have no idea what that second line stands for, but my guess it is something to do with the FW, or maybe another component like the tuner, or something else...not sure. Either that number at the bottom (1005) is linked to the fix and I didnt get it, or it isn't and I will be fixed. I guess I will know in 24hrs. Obviously my main drive is to get my TV perfect, but also to try to help others. Maybe in the end the only real fix is a new FW coming in a month or two. I hope this long post was helpful.

Standing up...if your guy tries to lay it down, throw a fit becasue it can cause clouding in the panel.