or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Official Toshiba 65HM167 and 57HM167 Owner's thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Toshiba 65HM167 and 57HM167 Owner's thread - Page 90

post #2671 of 3106
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

I disagree. I have bought lamps (all non-toshiba) and only had a problem with one. 3 weeks and it failed to ignite. Company replaced it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Saw them on Craigslist. You are asking waaaaay too much. A 1 year AND a 4 month old lamp?! Really?! All I can say is good luck, you're gonna need it.

Since you are comparing them to non-OEM prices, I'm sure TWO Toshiba lamps looks like a lot to you.

Make me an offer? Otherwise, bud out.
post #2672 of 3106
Quote:
Originally Posted by peteranton View Post

Since you are comparing them to non-OEM prices, I'm sure TWO Toshiba lamps looks like a lot to you.

Make me an offer? Otherwise, bud out.

Actually I KNOW what Toshiba lamps are worth NEW, but regardless, BOTH or your "new" lamps are well used. I'll give you $40. Besides, not even sure your lamps are the OLD Toshiba design or the NEW Toshiba design. You fail to give any pertinent information.
post #2673 of 3106
Dose anyone have a link to the service manual like to see how to get the light engine out?

Thanks

Allen
post #2674 of 3106
Here's a link to the service manual.

http://elektrotanya.com/toshiba_65hm.../download.html

very small link at bottom right of page labeled "Get Manual"


Got mine out, and dumb question I suppose, but is this whole thing the light engine? I can't find any pictures online, found a picture in the auction mentioned above last week, but now ebay won't search completed auctions past July 1.

Attachment 217523
LL
post #2675 of 3106
Yes, that is the whole LE. Looks like the ballast (top right brown PCB) is included and it is SUPPOSED to be seperate.
post #2676 of 3106
Has anyone actually tried to replace the dlp/dmd chip themselves? My 4-5 year old 65hm167 TV has reached the 20 white dot stage (also an increasing amount of black dots that look like gnats on the inside of the screen). After reading this thread I decided to open it up and clean it (with help from page 86). Lots of dust everywhere, on the lens, big mirror, all over the light engine. After CAREFUL cleaning, I removed the circuit board with the DLP chip and popped the chip out to clean up the windows (hoping this would magically fix the black and white dot problem without having to replace the chip). Again, very careful or you could do more damage then good. Wrote the chip numbers down (my chip had a board number of 1910-6103W), replaced everything, and plugged it back in. I now have a very clean TV, inside and outwith 20 white dots, and dozens of gnats that didn't go away. I just ordered the replacement chip from shopJimmy.com and it should get here in a couple of days ($188). I'm assuming that since I completely removed the chip and reinstalled it (and the TV still works) that it is possible for a semi-competent do it yourselfer to perform this fix themselves at much less cost then calling in a TV parts replacer, or mailing off your light engine. I'll post again when I get the new chip installed.

----I tried to post the shopJimmy url, but the site wouldn't let me (I'm too new I guess). You can google shopjimmy samsung-mitsubishi-toshiba-4719-001997-dlp-chip
post #2677 of 3106
We gave one of our sons the 65HM167 Last year when we got a Mits 82. He called a bit ago and asked "what's going on when you have the Little Dipper on the screen?" I told him it's dieing. It's about 4 months out of an extended warranty from the store I bought from. Guess I need to find a LE, huh?
post #2678 of 3106
That's funny, mine started out as the little dipper also. Now it's getting closer to the milkyway. You can go the expensive way and replace the whole LE, or you could try to replace the just the chip (like I am going to do). You don't have to be a TV tech to do it, but it isn't a task that a novice should try.
post #2679 of 3106
Quote:
Originally Posted by -joe- View Post

Has anyone actually tried to replace the dlp/dmd chip themselves? My 4-5 year old 65hm167 TV has reached the 20 white dot stage (also an increasing amount of black dots that look like gnats on the inside of the screen). After reading this thread I decided to open it up and clean it (with help from page 86). Lots of dust everywhere, on the lens, big mirror, all over the light engine. After CAREFUL cleaning, I removed the circuit board with the DLP chip and popped the chip out to clean up the windows (hoping this would magically fix the black and white dot problem without having to replace the chip). Again, very careful or you could do more damage then good. Wrote the chip numbers down (my chip had a board number of 1910-6103W), replaced everything, and plugged it back in. I now have a very clean TV, inside and outwith 20 white dots, and dozens of gnats that didn't go away. I just ordered the replacement chip from shopJimmy.com and it should get here in a couple of days ($188). I'm assuming that since I completely removed the chip and reinstalled it (and the TV still works) that it is possible for a semi-competent do it yourselfer to perform this fix themselves at much less cost then calling in a TV parts replacer, or mailing off your light engine. I'll post again when I get the new chip installed.

----I tried to post the shopJimmy url, but the site wouldn't let me (I'm too new I guess). You can google shopjimmy samsung-mitsubishi-toshiba-4719-001997-dlp-chip

Dig it...This is EXCELLENT information to know. My 73" Mits uses the SAME chip. Don't need one but good to know where to go IF ever needed.
post #2680 of 3106
5% off any order at Shop Jimmy.com with coupon code: SJ514C

Taking a chance on this one. For $179-$188 it's worth a shot.
post #2681 of 3106
I decided to go this way as well. Ordered the chip on ebay from shopjimmy. Thanks for the heads up Joe. I'll report back when I get the chip and get it installed.
post #2682 of 3106
Hi all
Just bought a 65HM167 to replace a REALLY old Mits VS-60803.
Got an OK deal ($500) on Craigslist and so far so good. TV (and image) look GREAT.
After skimming thru this thread and reading the last 10 pages I am psyched and a little apprehensive about my new toy.
I knew the bulb was a risk, but not the light engine. Hopefully replacing the DLP chip works out as an alternative.
Anyway set is fine for now and I do not see any white dots - do they really stand out?

Went into service menu and checked the stats
Power On Time 7303
LAMPL 7265
LAMPH 37
LPON 2440

TV is only 3yrs old so not bad I guess.
Should I start running lamp on high?
I did turn power save on.

I also wanted to check the firmware
Mine has 3.2.40.0 dated 22-Mar-07
Is this the latest? If not anyone know where I can download from? Seems Tosh took down the site which was linked to earlier.
post #2683 of 3106
Quote:
Originally Posted by aydu View Post

Anybody got pictures of the light engine and where the DLP chip is actually located?

Love to see the inside of the set without tearing into one.

I would too! Have the light engine out, but the chip is not jumping out at me. "joe" supposedly had it apart and put back working....care to share?
post #2684 of 3106
post #2685 of 3106
Quote:
Originally Posted by peteranton View Post
I would too! Have the light engine out, but the chip is not jumping out at me. "joe" supposedly had it apart and put back working....care to share?
I know the chip is covered by a heatsink that must be removed to actually get to the chip. Should be some heat transfer material between the two that needs to be replaced along with the chip.

Sounds very similar to a computer's processor chip.
post #2686 of 3106
Quote:
Originally Posted by aydu View Post
I know the chip is covered by a heatsink that must be removed to actually get to the chip. Should be some heat transfer material between the two that needs to be replaced along with the chip.

Sounds very similar to a computer's processor chip.
I know it's in that metal box. If I remove the attached small fan (called out in the service manual as the DMD fan), I see a heat sink on the other side.

The question is how I get to the chip in the box!
post #2687 of 3106
When my chip gets here, and I open up the TV again, I'll take pictures and show a step by step. But for now, I'll try to describe: use the link from "humbleag" a couple posts up to download the manual. Look at page 10. The LE on the right hand side has a grey metal case with a small fan attached to it. This box contains the circuit board with the DLP chip. You have to remove the wires on the front and back (be careful to pull them out by the connector and not the wire). There are 2 small screws on the box. One on top and one on the side. Remove these and take the cover off the box (it's a friction fit and puts up a good fight). Use a small screw driver under the flaps to gently pry and slide the cover off. The fan actually is directly over the heatsink (and yes there is some transfer material between the chip and sink). There are several screws that hold the circuit board to the back of the box, and 2 that hold the heatsink on the chip. Remove the heatsink, then work around the other screws (I think there are 5, but can't remember). Once the board is loose, you can turn it over to get the chip out. There is a screw that locks the chip onto the board. Turn it 180 and the chip is free to pick out. I did take some blurry pictures when I was cleaning, so I'll try to post these in a bit, it might help. I used a can of compressed air to blow the dust away from the board and chip and the window the chip shines into. Make sure things are dust free before putting the new chip in to get the best picture. To put the chip in, place it on the slots, push gently, then turn the screw back. Try to gently lift the chip off. If it stays, you did good. If not, turn screw back and try again. Put it all back together and pray it works. One other thing, if you find there is allot of dust in the LE compartment area, then you have a high probability that there is dust everywhere else. Use the pics on page 86 of the post to show you how to take screen off and clean well with a dry clean cloth. After I cleaned my TV the colors and contrast now pop like the did when new.

Hope this helps..my chip should get here tomorrow, so I hope to have more pics then.
post #2688 of 3106
for more reference, on page 11 (#4) of the manual shows a close up of the DLP board box and the front cables. Page 13 (#2) shows the back of the box and the back cables.
post #2689 of 3106
here's the pictures. Yes they are blurry, but I didn't know I'd be posting them. I reduced the file size, so hopefully there not too small to see. If anyone is interested, I can do a step by step with pics when my chip gets here.
Attachment 217869

Attachment 217870
LL
LL
post #2690 of 3106
....thank you so much!

I laughed when I read "and take the cover off the box (it's a friction fit and puts up a good fight" because that's as far as I got. Did everything you indicated up to that point, but doubted myself because the cover wouldn't budge. I thought I missed something. It's on REAL tight.

Will try to work with your following posts (thanks again) and try to add anything that I encounter. The chip is scheduled to show up tomorrow.
post #2691 of 3106
Quote:
Originally Posted by -joe- View Post

here's the pictures. Yes they are blurry, but I didn't know I'd be posting them. I reduced the file size, so hopefully there not too small to see. If anyone is interested, I can do a step by step with pics when my chip gets here.

I noticed that you left the little white ribbon connected to the board. I gave up trying to disconnect it, didn't want to force it. I'm thinking the connector is the white thingy, and the board has prongs to accept it. I may be completely wrong, so I left it connected also.
post #2692 of 3106
good eyes. Yes, I left it connected because it wouldn't budge and I didn't want to force it. I think the actual ribbon slides into what looks like the connector and the connector part is actually soldered to the board. I just didn't want to take the chance of pulling the ribbon out and finding out later that I broke it. I'm waiting for my chip still. UPS says it's out for delivery, and I think the driver is seeing if he can make me go mad waiting for him!!
post #2693 of 3106
here's some more pics. These 4 will get you to the point of replacing, then use the pics a couple posts up to replace the chip.
Attachment 217918

Attachment 217919

Attachment 217920

Attachment 217921
LL
LL
LL
LL
post #2694 of 3106
Great posts, thanks Joe!!
post #2695 of 3106
Thanks....and new chip is in and SUCCESS!!!!!!! Bright, clear screen, no dots..should be good for another 4 years.
post #2696 of 3106
couple of other things: The white ribbon indeed has no connector. The white thingy is soldered to the board and you can gently pull the ribbon out and put it back into the little slot when you're done (I found this out by accident when I bumbed the ribbon pulling another cable out, scared me to death at the time, but worked out ok). I also forgot that there are 7 screws on the circuit board not six. There is one more at the bottom middle of the board. Hope all this helps everyone. It's not for the novice, but if you're pretty handy you can do it, and it sure is cheaper than buying a new LE. Good Luck.
post #2697 of 3106
Unfortunately, my Toshiba didn't start back up. All I got was a blinking yellow, then it tried to fire up, but never does. On the off chance it was a lamp, I installed a spare. Still nothing. I do not even hear the colorwheel whine.

I'll go back and reinstall the old chip just in case I got a bad one for Shopjimmy. Also, the plastic sleeve it came in was used already (not new). I hope I didn't get a return.

Question: The only thing I was not sure about was reinstalling the heat shink with the springs....how tight? It does not look like it is flat against the board...maybe 1/16"
post #2698 of 3106
Quote:
Originally Posted by peteranton View Post

Unfortunately, my Toshiba didn't start back up. All I got was a blinking yellow, then it tried to fire up, but never does. On the off chance it was a lamp, I installed a spare. Still nothing. I do not even hear the colorwheel whine.

I'll go back and reinstall the old chip just in case I got a bad one for Shopjimmy. Also, the plastic sleeve it came in was used already (not new). I hope I didn't get a return.

Question: The only thing I was not sure about was reinstalling the heat shink with the springs....how tight? It does not look like it is flat against the board...maybe 1/16"

sorry to hear that..the heat sink does seem a little loose to me too. But that wouldn't keep the chip from working. The heat xfer material between the chip and heat sink on the original was pretty thick, about a 1/16th, which seemed allot to me. heat xfer is actually better metal to metal, and the xfer paste is just supposed to fill the air gaps to help (very smalll amount, almost transparent), if it gets to thick it actually is worse than not having any at all (because heat moves quicker through metal to metal contact vice this paste).

let us know if it works with the old chip back in, and check all the cables and connectors.
post #2699 of 3106
Quote:
Originally Posted by peteranton View Post

Unfortunately, my Toshiba didn't start back up. All I got was a blinking yellow, then it tried to fire up, but never does. On the off chance it was a lamp, I installed a spare. Still nothing. I do not even hear the colorwheel whine.


Had the same issue with mine and finally figured it out. Hopefully this will solve yours.

I reinstalled the old chip, still no lamp start (and no whine). Took it apart again (getting pretty good at this) and noticed the white ribbon cable had a trace on it that was buggered up where it goes into the connector. Cut the end of the ribbon cable off about 1/16" and reinserted it, now fires up first time, new chip installed and no white spots.

Make sure the traces are still exposed if you cut the ribbon cable off, should just have to cut a tiny bit if a trace is messed up at the end.

Yippee!

post #2700 of 3106
My girlfriend just moved in and brought her 65hm167. Since it was larger than my 52" Mits DLP (about the same age) I relunctantly put it in the living room and the Mits in the bedroom. After spending alot of time reading this forum and attempting to calibrate using various sources (mostly DVE BluRay), I can make the following comments:

1) No matter what I do, cannot get a good punchy PQ like the Mits. Pic always seems washed out. No NR, Dynamic Contrast. Lamp in both high and low power mode. Blacks are seriously compromised. Don't have numbers in front of me, but from recall contrast was at 97 and brightness at about 38 or so with DVE.

2) Tosh doesn't seem to have the firmware on their site anymore.

3) If the fan keeping the DLP cool is working, it sure is turning slowly. Tried to see if it was turning, but can't with bulb in place (looking throgh vents with powerful flashlight).

4) Haven't even attempted service menu. Based on what I have read here, no amount of service menu adjustment can fix the black levels on this set.

5) No wonder Tosh got out of the RPTV business.

6) Can't get the channel guide to work with OTA signal.


I am going to continue to tweak it and maybe learn to live with it, but my hopes are not high. Just more reason to finish my theater room before winter.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Official Toshiba 65HM167 and 57HM167 Owner's thread