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Official Toshiba 65HM167 and 57HM167 Owner's thread - Page 95

post #2821 of 3106
Well I am certainly happy for those of you who were successful in replacing the DMD chip. Thursday night my aftermarket bulb of 3 months blew as I was counting white dots on my screen....caught me off guard. But I have thought about it and finally decided enough is enough. My 57HM167 is now on the front porch and will go to the curb on Thursday morning for the city to pick up.

I have learned a few things during this process. The first and foremost is Toshiba does very little to stand behind their products and their track record with this particular model is horrible. I'm sorry to those who would elect to defend a company thru something like this, which I can't understand.

To have a product break down as these DMD chips have at the 4 year mark is just unacceptable. The communication between a customer and Toshiba concerning service is just not there.

I will do what I have a right to do now that I have no other recourse....I will trash Toshiba's name as much as possible and will spend whatever time necessary if someone wants to know why.

I am off to the big box store for a replacement tv for my mancave....and anyone reading this can rest assured the brand I buy WILL NOT BE TOSHIBA!
post #2822 of 3106
Well I'm happy to say that today I fixed my 65HM167 TV!!

I installed a new DMD chip and everything is back to normal!! No more white dots!!

Just in time for the SUPERBOWL!!

It was easier than I thought!!

The toughest part for me was getting the steel cover with the fan on it back onto the circuit. Everything else was very easy thanks to everyone on this board for all the help!! The pictures really helped!! Thanks -joe- !

Just take your time follow -joe-'s instructions and you'll be fine, it's actually super easy to do!!

Again thanks for all your help guys you guys rock!!

post #2823 of 3106
By the way this is the Link to the Thread where -joe- explains how to change out the DMD chip with pictures:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post20715364
post #2824 of 3106
Ok I have had my 65HM167 since it came out, was one of those who had to have it. So mine is around 5 years old. Have had to have service out under warranty for white dots and other issue but thats all good. Out of warranty for a while now and blew the first lamp in it early this year, bought after market lamp didnt work and ended up having to pay the local toshiba repair guy to come out and with a factory lamp it now worked.

So now 2-3 months later, I have no picture. Lamp is working as when you use the remote the menus appear on screen. I tried playing a DVD same thing, no pic only sound, hooked cable direct and same, sound only no picture.

What is wrong now with this thing?
post #2825 of 3106
If your menus are working, it sounds like your input board is not functioning.

As the menus work, you might try using the reset command.

It is on the System Status/System information menu. You have to toggle to it once the menu shows you the firmware version on the Tv.

Might reset the board and get the inputs working again.

Best of luck with what will likely be your last Toshiba product (I know mine will be the last item with a Toshiba name on it in my house).
post #2826 of 3106
I am looking for some help:

My wife and I replaced our DMP chip in our TV. We were getting the white spots. Well, us not doing enough searching dismantled the TV incorrectly the first time by removing the lens before realizing you had to actually remove the metal casing. Well, to we got the chip in, and the TV works fine... EXCEPT now the picture is scaled too big and the image has shifted to the bottom of the screen cutting off the bottom of the picture and leaving a big black empty space on the top of the screen. Can I get some help on adjusting this problem? Is it something I did to the lens or in the housing, or something in the software. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
post #2827 of 3106
I have the possibility of picking up a 2007 65HM167 used for $450 or an '09 60" Mits WD60737 for $500. Any opinions (many I'm sure LOL!)? I want the best bang for the buck, but I'd rather have valid opinions about your sets since you've bought them and had them for a while. The Mits is a great set and has a great track record, but I haven't/don't have time to spend a week researching this set.

Any help is appreciated!

Fish
post #2828 of 3106
I'd pass on this "opportunity". Based on the age of the sets, both are ripe for a major repair bill that would put your overall expense at close to a new LCD set - which would come with a warranty.

My 65hm167 had it's lamp fail right after one year of ownership. The 2nd one failed within a year of normal use. Aftermarket lamps don't work in these sets (tend to fail to light after a few weeks/months of use) and OEM lamps from Toshiba are over $200 (but they work).

My set it on it's 3rd light engine, the latest due to the white dot issue that appears on these sets as they age - due to heat.

I would have junked my set long ago, if it had not been for extended warranties on the lamps and the set. Next time it goes down, it's history.

A used DLP set of this vintage is like a used car with over 100,000 miles on it. Buyer beware!!
post #2829 of 3106
Oops, guess I better update my post...
The Tosh is actually $200 but comes with a very nice glass stand that was over $350 new. And ....again..... another Mits I missed on. Already sold...

Re: bulbs and age
I can't afford a new set, still paying for an ex-wife and 2 kids. LOL! Be another 5 years, so I'll just bite the bullet and buy the bulb (once this one blows). Both the stand and the set are in A1 condition. The bulb is still pretty bright considering it's age. If it develops the need for a chip or repair, thankfully, I can handle that part personally. Just the parts, man, just the parts.

BTW, it's the original bulb.
post #2830 of 3106
I just went through all the instructions on here by Joe to fix the white dots, and it fixed the TV!!! Thanks for all the great info on here, in-law is happy now!
post #2831 of 3106
UPDATE:
Well, I picked up the Tosh and had a long 2.5 hr drive home with it. Every bump freaking me out. But it survived and it looks GREAT! Set looks brand new, bulb is still bright (original), and everything POPS! Got it and a great stand for $400.
post #2832 of 3106
Congrats man.
post #2833 of 3106
Is there any other reputable OEM bulb supplier? Shopjimmy is out. I wanted to get a spare, cuz this is the original bulb and it's nearly 5 years old...


Thanks!
post #2834 of 3106
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishman1 View Post

Is there any other reputable OEM bulb supplier? Shopjimmy is out. I wanted to get a spare, cuz this is the original bulb and it's nearly 5 years old...


Thanks!

I bought my last replacement lamp from Toshiba, off their web site.

I was trying to isolate problems with my set igniting the lamp. Either the ballast was failing, or, the lamps I was trying were dying prematurely.

The Toshiba supplied lamp has worked perfectly since I installed it, solving my issue before the extended warranty expired.

Toshiba is expensive for their lamps. To add insult to injury they add shipping and local sales tax to the purchase. I have to admit that the extra cost was less than the frustration of fighting with the TV on a daily basis.

Toshiba has had lots of lamp problems. Even buying an official Toshiba branded lamp from a secondary supplier does not guarantee that you are not getting an older design. I counted on going directly to Toshiba as the best chance of getting their latest manufacturing design. Seems to have proven right for me.

These things often get down to "cost" vs "value". After trying to save on cost, and failing, I ended up going the other route.
post #2835 of 3106
I understand, but this round I can't afford $200+ for it (still paying for ex-wife) and was wondering if their was anyone out there that had good replacement bulbs other than Tosh. If I can get a year out of it or just enough to tide me over, I'm ok with that. This ones been operating on low power/high contrast for nearly 5 years and I'm afraid of switching modes and recalibrating without a spare on hand. On the flipside, the picture is fantastic as-is, but it's still 5 years old. I need one pretty quick as this is my only TV (remember the ex-wife? LOL). I've noticed that after firing up, the set seems to fire up in bright mode then drops to low power. I'm assuming this is normal.
Is anyone out there using or have tried shopjimmy bulbs?
post #2836 of 3106
A number of replacement bulbs are sold on Amazon (link). There are some user reviews there that might help. I'm on my second replacement bulb; the first lasted about a year. I bought my current one from a third-party seller on Amazon; it's working fine but brought on some image retention, so I wouldn't particularly recommend it. The one I bought is linked in post 2810.

That post must have jinxed me because I mentioned that I hadn't seen any white dots yet. I now have about five.
post #2837 of 3106
There are multiple sellers on E-Bay that carry lamps that go from non-oem replacements with a short warranty, to the Toshiba branded lamp, usually with a longer warranty and a higher price (although not as high as Toshiba).

If you find a vendor that you like that carries an official Toshiba branded lamp, you can always call Toshiba to see if they will honor the Toshiba warranty when purchased through them. Toshiba branded lamps come with a 6 month warranty from Toshiba. There is a warranty slip in the box.

If you use a credit card that doubles the manufacturer's warranty, that gets you covered for a year.
post #2838 of 3106
Ok, knew the day would come soon.

Scenario:
Lamp won't stay lit, resets and reboots. Lamp power mode in menu is grayed out and unavailable. While on, flips back and forth between high and low power then goes out and attempts lamp restart. When fails, set recycles and tries again.

Question: Lamp or ballast?

Or both?

Neil
post #2839 of 3106
If the lamp lights up at all, the problem isn't the lamp. You can find some information on ballast problems in this thread about an earlier Toshiba model. One post says that if the set attempts to light the lamp but fails, it's the ballast. Sounds like what you are experiencing.
post #2840 of 3106
Performed the DLP chip replacement last night and Toshiba 65HM167 is like new again. Thanks to knowledge sharing on the internet and avsforum.com the process was easier with helpful posts from other users, especially -joe-.

Getting the back off, disconnecting most of the cables, sliding out the light engine (I did not remove it), removing the DMD board, and replacing the chip went well. The metal shielding over the DMD board was a bit difficult to remove (and replace), but once the two clips near the top are loosened it will pop right off (and of course removal of two screws, one on the left and one on the top). I left the small white ribbon cable near the top upper right side connected and was careful when moving the board. I used a smaller screwdriver to turn the chip holding screw 180° and lifted it right out. There was enough thermal transfer material (it's a brownish-orange colored pad) remaining on the heat sink to not worry about replacing it. Since I had it opened up I also took the opportunity to clean out the dust and clean off the lens with an eyeglass cleaning pad. I was happy to see the tv turn on and have a clear picture when everything was done (but still not happy that it occurred in the first place). Be careful when removing the wires, pull them by the connectors. It took me about an hour, but I worked on Navy electronics for 10 years and build my own computers. I wouldn't recommend this to anyone unless you have some familiarity with what you see in the photos posted in the forum.

I got the chip from tvreplacementparts.com, currently featured on their home page. The cost was $265 ($215 after the old chip is returned). At the time I ordered the chip it was on back order, but it arrived about two weeks later.
original part number on chip 6899300 1910-6103W
new chip 2024416 1910-6143W (compatible replacement)

I get my bulbs from discount-merchant.com. I got about 5-6,000 hours out of the original bulb, the same out of the first replacement bulb, and am about 1,000 hours into my second replacement bulb. I get the bare bulb (Y67-LMP $110) because it's easy to reuse the housing, but they also sell it with the housing for a bit more. Since I live in San Diego I can pick it up at their warehouse near the border.

Some diagnostic information from the tv:
Power on time: 13,176 hours (5,874 low/7,302 high)
Lamp on times: 5,915
Temp1/Temp2: 39°C/43°C
Model: HM107, March 22, 2007

Links to other posts that helped me.

-joe- (steps and photos)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/member.php?u=8354429
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post20715212
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post20715364
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post20719824

humbleag (manual)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post20700686

akrein62 (tv parts site)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post20956926
LL
LL
LL
post #2841 of 3106
Thanks for your post! I have the same TV as yours, and this will help out if and when I have to get in there. I am interested in why you didn't use new thermal compound, since that may be a big reason the chips are failing. Do you think there is enough thermal compound originally and no "thermal pad" on our Toshibas?

Also I'll ask this question again, given your expertise: Is it worth getting in there to replace the thermal compound before my chip fails?
post #2842 of 3106
I'll add to his question, should we add a small heatsink to the chip?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dj99wa View Post

Thanks for your post! I have the same TV as yours, and this will help out if and when I have to get in there. I am interested in why you didn't use new thermal compound, since that may be a big reason the chips are failing. Do you think there is enough thermal compound originally and no "thermal pad" on our Toshibas?

Also I'll ask this question again, given your expertise: Is it worth getting in there to replace the thermal compound before my chip fails?
post #2843 of 3106
You mean a bigger heatsink???
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...9&d=1311198169


Now that I'm looking again, maybe cut out the metal under the fan and swap a 120mm fan in there? Now that could be a worthwhile mod in this case!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...8&d=1311198169
post #2844 of 3106
Just as an FYI...My Mits 73733 has the same typeheatsink BUT has a pad instead of compound. I swapped my chip (same chip as all of you) last night also (I came across another Mits DLP set for free, the the heavens above) and all is right with the world. Took about a month or so for 5 white dots and about 7 or 8 black dots to appear once I saw the first white dot. All is well again.

Point being the pad from the original chip when I removed the heatsink, had about half the pad stuck to the chip, the other half to the heatsink. The replacement, pad et all, was in perfect condition. So I swapped the heatsink as well. May or not have anything to do with the chip failure, as I said, just a FYI.
post #2845 of 3106
It is a brick colored thermal pad between the chip and heat sink. A small corner of mine did stick to the old chip, but the rest of it seemed fine. I checked the small corner from the chip and it felt good enough to be reused. If more of it had came off I would have cleaned it and used some AS5 thermal paste. As long as there is some kind of thermal transfer material, the heat sink is snug, the fan is spinning fast enough, and there is a clear air flow path out the back, it should be fine. I cleaned a lot of dust from the heat sink fins and surrounding area. Maybe I will do this more often from now on, just in case heat is part of the problem.

I don't know the exact place where the maintenance temps are read from, but mine were 39°C/43°C, one degree lower from when I checked them last November, which seems like a normal range. It would be possible to use a different fan, or even construct a duct to an external fan and pump more air through there. From what I have been reading I think the tiny mirrors just wear out and get stuck. I was hoping the new one might have the issue resolved, but probably won't know for another 4 years, and by then might be ready for a new TV.

To directly answer dj99wa's question - I would not remove the heatsink and replace the thermal pad if you are not experiencing any problems, unless Toshiba issued some kind of recall statement that this would save you from getting the white dots (it appears that they will never acknowledge any problem with these TVs). If you wanted to do it anyway it shouldn't make things worse. What I would do is open up the back and at least get all the dust out of there, especially the heat sink fins, fan blades, and back panel vents, and check your temps from the service menu.
post #2846 of 3106
Quote:
Originally Posted by mps1168 View Post

Ok I have had my 65HM167 since it came out, was one of those who had to have it. So mine is around 5 years old. Have had to have service out under warranty for white dots and other issue but thats all good. Out of warranty for a while now and blew the first lamp in it early this year, bought after market lamp didnt work and ended up having to pay the local toshiba repair guy to come out and with a factory lamp it now worked.

So now 2-3 months later, I have no picture. Lamp is working as when you use the remote the menus appear on screen. I tried playing a DVD same thing, no pic only sound, hooked cable direct and same, sound only no picture.

What is wrong now with this thing?

So not sure if you are still having this issue or not, but I had the same exact thing happen this evening. TV was working great then all of a sudden picture is gone, but still have the sounds. Tried rebooting my cable, nada. Tried watching a DVD and got zilch picture, but had great sound. Finally I grabbed my remote;

Hit the menu button
Scroll over to Setup tab
Selected Installation
Scrolled over to Factory Defaults
Entered 0000 to reset to factory defaults
Selected Yes to confirm
After TV shut off unplugged for 10 seconds
Plugged back in and the TV worked perfectly. I think the screen looked even better than before I had the issue.

Hope you got yours working and if anyone else is having this issue then this solution works as well for you as it did for me.
post #2847 of 3106
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishman1 View Post

Ok, knew the day would come soon.

Scenario:
Lamp won't stay lit, resets and reboots. Lamp power mode in menu is grayed out and unavailable. While on, flips back and forth between high and low power then goes out and attempts lamp restart. When fails, set recycles and tries again.

Question: Lamp or ballast?

Or both?

Neil

Wow, the responses are underwhelming.

Koan, thx for the response and the link. With some of the other things I saw, I'm not so sure it's ballast, but possibly control. Yes I know the bulb is old BUT the picture settings were different from what SHOULD have been displayed and the lamp power mode was grayed out and unavailable. When it finally straightened up, the display settings were back to normal.
I haven't gone into the SM to check firmware version yet. I'm waiting to get the replacement lamp before going through all the mess of updating, lamp replacement, and recalibrating.

EDIT:
Lamp info and such:
Power on Time: 11832
Lamp PL: 10986
Lamp PH: 846
Boot code Ver: 3.2.3.0 - 2007.01.11
Seine SW Ver: 3.2.40.0




So, no one has seen or heard of anything like this or has an opinion?


Fish
post #2848 of 3106
Swapped out the chip to fix the white dots, worked like a charm. One tiny problem, the picture was off center, adjusted that and yet another problem has arisen. Now I turn the set on and it works great for 30 seconds, then the bulb shuts off and the red light on the front blinks, any ideas????
post #2849 of 3106
Count the blinks and then look in your users manual in the troubleshooting section. But sounds like bulb failure to me.
post #2850 of 3106
Thanks to everyone here. Sorry for this long post

I have his and hers

Swapped the chip out on mine and picture is GORGEOUS AGAIN!!! No issues at all. Took me about two hours as I'm very slow, took my time, and labeled everything I took apart with colored dots to make sure I put them back where they go. I swapped my bulb out (Original bulb,Aug 07 still worked) and ordered another spare from crapshiba since my original spare was from Advance Lamps and post here indicate crapshibas don't play nice with other lamps.

Got my chips from Shop Jimmy for $197.96 shipped.
Free shipping this month so it will be a little more cheaper.

Thanks again guys. if ya ever in Nawlins' give me a shout i'll buy ya a cold one.

Now i'm off to fix my wifeys

The TV is a GREAT product. Its Crapshiba I have serious issues with for their lack of service to the consumer.
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