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Official Toshiba 65HM167 and 57HM167 Owner's thread - Page 96

post #2851 of 3103
All I can say is WOW and THANK YOU all!

We just finished replacing the chip. And the TV works Awesome!

The dots were so bad, we could barely see the picture...what a huge relief!

Thank you again!
post #2852 of 3103
Quote:
Originally Posted by aydu View Post

If your menus are working, it sounds like your input board is not functioning.

As the menus work, you might try using the reset command.

It is on the System Status/System information menu. You have to toggle to it once the menu shows you the firmware version on the Tv.

Might reset the board and get the inputs working again.

Best of luck with what will likely be your last Toshiba product (I know mine will be the last item with a Toshiba name on it in my house).

Thank you so much for this suggestion. I was playing Xbox on the tv, and when I turned that off and went back to TV viewing, all I got was a black screen. I could see that the bulb was on, and I could see menus on the screen but no picture. I did the reset and after 3 restarts it works again.

Any idea what would cause this, or why resetting the tv allows it to work again? Ive had the tv for about 3.5 years and this is the first problem I have had with it.
post #2853 of 3103
Great News. We got our TV working like new again.

No More DOTS

It was easy to do the swope.

Thanks to Joe and everyone else who post on here.

post #2854 of 3103
I've had my 57hm167 for about 6 years now and i am just now replacing the bulb for the first time, and we use the tv every day! but, i would like to take the front screen off for cleaning but am having trouble witht the bottom center not coming out. i don't see any other srews and am afraid of breaking it. anyone know how to release it? all screws out of the back. also, what is the best method to clean the lense and mirror? thanks scott
post #2855 of 3103
Quote:
Originally Posted by swdlc View Post

i've had my 57hm167 for about 6 years now and i am just now replacing the bulb for the first time, and we use the tv every day! But, i would like to take the front screen off for cleaning but am having trouble witht the bottom center not coming out. I don't see any other srews and am afraid of breaking it. Anyone know how to release it? All screws out of the back. Also, what is the best method to clean the lense and mirror? Thanks scott

look on page 86
post #2856 of 3103
I just spent the last 2 hours following the instructions on this thread to fix the white dot problem on my Toshiba. Thank you to all that posted, my TV is working fine again.

SWDLC, there are 2 screws under the mesh screen where the power and status lights are located. Push in the screen and pry it gently out with a screwdriver and you'll see the screws.
post #2857 of 3103
Got my first white dot about 2 weeks ago. 3rd one showed up last night.
Just ordered a chip from Shopjimmy, for 188.16, with free 2 day shipping (during month of April).
4 year extended warranty expired in January.


Power on Time: 12987
Lamp PL: 0
Lamp PH: 12987
LPON: 2466

Hmm, how come I have 0 LAMPL?
post #2858 of 3103
I believe that refers to lamp on "Hi" or "Low" (Power Saving) mode.
post #2859 of 3103
I have a 65HM167, I just replaced the lamp and wanted to reset the lamp hours. Well in the process I entered the service menu and mistakenly changed some settings and now the screen has a red tint. So if someone can post their service menu settings or knows how to reset them to the factory default, I would be forever grateful.
post #2860 of 3103
ms6146 - I have the 57HM167 and can probably get you my service menu settings if you think they will help. My screen grabs of the 18 pages take up about 3MBs zipped and the AVS attachment limit is 500kb, so if there is only a page or two you need, let me know.
post #2861 of 3103
Starting to look like a clear night sky with the white dots. The good news is that I had 1 month left on my RepairMaster 5-year extended warranty, so I don't have to pay. The warranty only cost me about $85 at the time. They are going to replace the optical block, so it was a good investment. I think it was the only extended warranty I've ever bought. The bad news is that it's taking a long time to get the part in and have the repair done, when I could have done the chip replacement by now myself.
post #2862 of 3103
Hey guys, thanks for so much information.

I replaced my chip this evening, fired the TV up and the dots were gone. However, I now have grey bars going across my TV. Any idea what may be causing this?

post #2863 of 3103
OK, I figured out my issue. I took everything apart again, took the chip out and re-inserted it. This time I was sure to seat it securely. The first time I was very very careful and didn't handle it too much. Because of this, I did ensure that it was seated as firmly as could be. It almost snaps in to place. If you're replacing your chip, press around the edges to make sure that it snaps in to place and is seated as securely as possible. Wheww, glad I figured that out : )
post #2864 of 3103
Well, bought my set in Feb 2008. The white dots are starting to appear, and black dots are noticeable on white screens. I purchased the tv thru Rex with a 5 year warranty. They have since gone out of the retail business but are still honoring the warranty. TV repair guy is supposed to be here shortly. They pre-ordered a part, hopefully the whole assembly...will let you know how it all turns out. I'm in FL panhandle, and the repair co Norman's electronics appears to be out of the Altanta area. Any experience with them?
post #2865 of 3103
My warranty company was going to replace the optical engine, but there are none to be found for the 57HM167. Parts suppliers have them on back order, but I questioned when and if they will ever be restocked, being that the model has been discontinued. They are now planning to replace only the DLP chip. That's fine with me; it's been over 2 months and I now have over a hundred of the white dots.
post #2866 of 3103
Hi guys, I have a Toshiba 65hc15 rear projection TV, I bought it off my neighbors the other day but I really don't know much about it, I'm wondering how HD would look on it as well, I have a 32" LED TV and the picture looks outstanding on it, can I get that same image/picture quality out of this Rear Projection TV as I do on the LED TV, someone give me a good explanation and specs bout this TV plz, BTW I got it for $40, yea $40, SD channels look really good, I'm wondering how would HD look, I do not have cable, I'm using a dtv converter box (RCA) non HD converter.. Thanks guys...

Attachment 247287
LL
post #2867 of 3103
Good deal. 1st off, this is the forum for DLP and your toy is CRT. 2nd, no, won't have the same pic as your LED. Only you can decide on the PQ...You got a good deal. Enjoy! The Toshiba CRT RPTV is very dependable & reliable.
post #2868 of 3103
Like several of the AVS forum members that has posted earlier in this thread, my 65HM167 started having "stuck pixel" problems. My 65HM167 is now 5 years old with about 10,000 hours of use. About 3 weeks ago it started with one pixel stuck on (creating a white pixel). Within two weeks the number of stuck pixels had increased to 6. I went ahead and ordered a replacement DLP chip for $159 from shopjimmy.com (Link for the correct DLP chip is HERE). The new DLP chip was shipped the same day I placed the online order and they used 2-day UPS shipping. Note that the replacement DLP chip they are selling has a different part number than the original one in the TV, but it looks identical and it works without any issues.

FYI - You must first remove a plastic panel/cover that runs virtually all the way across the lower rear of the TV cabinet with openings for the Input/output panel and the lamp access door. This cover is held in place by several screws which should all be removed first and the bottom of the cover has several snaps/clips that can be released by inserting a flat blade screw driver in the slots and pulling the cover away of the TV cabinet (start at one end and release each clip one at a time as you work your way toward the other end of the cover). After the cover is removed from the TV then remove the lamp cover that is held in place by one screw. You should then remove the two screws that hold the light engine in place then unplug several cable connectors and release a the cable retaining clips that hold several cables that run from the light engine assembly to the electronics chassis that is located just to the left of the light engine (as viewed from the rear of the TV). If you download the Toshiba service manual for this TV then go to page 10 and follow the instructions for "Light Engine Replacement" (to download the service manual for free, click on the link for "get manual" that is located just below the document preview image on THIS WEB PAGE). I took my time to carefully remove the light engine assembly from the rear of the TV then to open the metal box and remove the PC board where the DLP chip is mounted. It took me just under 2 hours total from start to finish, from lifting the TV off of its stand to putting it back after the repair.

There is a good two part youtube video (Part 1 is HERE and Part 2 is HERE) that shows how to replace the DLP chip once the light engine chassis has been removed from the projector. I also used a brush and a vacuum to remove all the accumulated dust I could before replacing the DLP chip. I also dusted off the projection lens that is part of the assembly.
Edited by Ron Jones - 6/23/12 at 6:05pm
post #2869 of 3103
Great video. Thanks for posting.

My 65hm167 is on it's 3rd light engine assembly (all under extended warranty).

The removal of the light engine assembly took less time for the repair guy than removing all the screws for the cover of the back of the set.

Entire repair (chip or light engine) looks to be doable by the average guy with some patience and a screwdriver.

Too bad Samsung paid for the repair of their defective DMD chips while Toshiba left their customers out in the cold.
post #2870 of 3103
Thanks for all the great help and tips, just ordered the DLP chip. We'll see how it goes!
post #2871 of 3103
Like several other people thank you guys so much for the links, videos, and encouragement. I, too have a 65HM167 that had white dots. I was literally hours away from taking it to the garbage but I thought i'd look one last time on the internet for a cost effective solution. Thankfully I found this site. I ordered the chip from shopjimmy.com for $159 and 2 days later I now sit in front of my tv and it looks like new. biggrin.gif:D:D
post #2872 of 3103
Thanks for the advice guys. Ordered the chip from shopjimmy for $159 and now 2 days later my tv is ALIVE!! No more white dots!! WOW!! Thanks again to all.
post #2873 of 3103
Although I'm not sure how many hours I got out of my bulb, I've had my TV since the end of Dec. '07 and just had the original bulb burn out. I'd like this bulb replacement to go smoothly and hopefully get another 4-5 years out of a replacement.

I read through much of the thread and am still not 100% sure if there are places other than Toshibadirect that sell an OEM replacement lamp. Speaking of OEM, does anyone know the name of the actual manufacturer of the bulb that originally came in these TV's new? I'm led to believe Toshiba didn't manufacture their own bulbs.

Does anyone have experience with any of the following vendors/bulbs, which seem to claim to offer OEM replacement lamp assemblies?

http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-75008204-Y67-LMP-75007091-Replacement/dp/B001F1VW1Y/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Toshiba-Y67-LMP-Y67LMP-75007110-Lamp-Assembly-p/toshiba-y67-7500709-lamp_enc.htm

http://www.dlplampsource.com/y67-lmp-72514011-tv-replacement-lamp.html

Thanks for any help.

Interesting. Just found this lamp research site recommending a Phoenix-brand lamp and indicates Philips and Osram aren't recommended:

http://www.lampresearch.com/lamp-research.php

Update: I bought my Y-67 replacement lamp with enclosure (Phoenix brand) from discount-merchant for $119.99 plus tax (I'm in CA so had tax added), or $129.29 total (free shipping). There was a tremendous amount of dust on the lamp door and on the fan inside the lamp enclosure so I spent a lot of time cleaning it out well before installing the new bulb. The lamp door was a bit of a sloppy fit and took several attempts to get the screw to line up and go in properly. When I first powered it on I got the flashing yellow lights, multiple restarts, followed by the dreaded solid red light. I let it cool down while I had a frustration beer and then tried removing and re-seating the lamp assy. Even though it seemed to go in fine the first time, I pushed it in a bit harder on the electrical contact side, tapped the enclosure as people mentioned in earlier posts, and screwed it in a bit less tight this time. I crossed my fingers, turned it on, and lo and behold the picture was back! What a relief.

Here were my lamp numbers from the original bulb in the 65HM167 purchased on 12/26/07:
Power on time: 11,596
Lamp L: 11,584
Lamp H: 11
LPON: 2,934

I've waded through many pages of posts, but I didn't see the steps for resetting the lamp info. If someone could tell me how to do that, I'd appreciate it.
Edited by Ipaguy - 7/15/12 at 1:08pm
post #2874 of 3103
Get the one from Amazon. Also, the bulbs are Philips...
post #2875 of 3103
Chip in, the starry night constellations are gone! /cheeers

BUT now I seem to have a dark spot near the center of the screen, I'm thinking dust bunny or something so I'll take it back apart and wipe all the lens' down.
post #2876 of 3103
I just bought one and it is a Phoenix....works just like the OEM Toshiba....just as bright. In fact, I was told the Phoenix is the OEM. My original lamp is still working since '07 but decided to replace it with this one. I also have a lamp sold by Advance lamps which is not near the quality of the OEM or the new Phoenix. Bought just the lamp, not the housing.
post #2877 of 3103
My problems with lamps in these sets is with the ignition of the lamp.

Toshiba branded lamps fire up 1st time every time and continue to do so for the life of the lamp.

Off branded lamps would always work fine at first, but within a few weeks they would start to require several attempts to fire. Once lit they worked until the next power cycle. Eventually this gets worse and worse until the red lamp light comes on. Unplugging the set reset this, and often the lamp would eventually fire.

If you do buy from a vendor that sells off branded lamps (does not come in a Toshiba labeled box with the 6 month warranty card) make sure you get at least a 6 month warranty.

There is a visual difference in the lamps (not the housing). I'm guessing the difference is the igniter, which seems to be inferior on the non Toshiba lamps.
post #2878 of 3103
I just wanted to thank everyone in the tread for their assistance and links.
We got our 65HM167 around 4.5 years ago and I just replaced my first bulb.

Here were my hours
Power on Time: 9936
Lamp PH: 9936
LPON: 2062

I ordered the lamp assembly from Amazon and it came with a yellow Toshiba sticker.
Like others, the replacement bulb didn't fire up right out of the box. I had to open the assembly and tap on the back of the bulb. Once I did that, it fired right up and now it looks brand new.

Thanks,
Rich
post #2879 of 3103
Hi all and thanks for reading

i have inherited a toshiba 65hm167 that does the 3 blinking yellow light continiously. manual says its the seine board code. after openning it up i found that the lvds cable to the siene has a lose wire. pulled out of the connector. Is there any way to get a replacment wire for this?
post #2880 of 3103
So I started getting the white dots a couple of weeks back. Ordered the new chip and when I got up to 9 dots decided it was time to swap chips. So I took it all apart, swapped chips, put it back together, turned it on and got vertical blue lines and 4 solid black bars running from side to side on the TV. No more white dots that I can see though. At this point though I'd rather have my white dots. I took it all apart again and redid everythingand am still getting the vertical lines and black bars. Any ideas why I am getting these instead of a perfect screen like so many others?
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