Official Toshiba 65HM167 and 57HM167 Owner's thread - Page 101

Back after a LONG time. I bought the TV in 2007. First time the bulb popped in 2010 and now it happened again. Is Discount Merchant still a good place to buy these? I have seen some Amazon listings for ~$70.

http://www.discount-merchant.com/Toshiba-Y67-LMP-Y67LMP-75007110-Lamp-Assembly-p/toshiba-y67-7500709-lamp_enc.htm


EDIT : While browsing through the forum I saw that SJ sells the same bulb $10 cheaper when compared to DM and also offers 1 year warranty as compared to 3 months of DM. Though I am not sure if this is OEM bulb.

Recommendations please?
Edited by inphoenix - 2/26/13 at 6:13pm

Shop Jimmy for the longer warranty alone...

Hello! Having all sorts of trouble with my Toshiba. Replaced the DMD (redid it a few times in case I did something wrong.) The ribbon cable came out and I made sure it was in god shape and re-seated it as best I could. Not working! I get the blinking lights at bootup now, with eight (?) attempts before it gives up trying to fire the bulb. I can't seem to locate the firmware either to try that possible fix.

BTW, I found the firmware files here: http://www.benjammin.net/~bkamen/school/

Cool! Did it work?

Thanks. Ordered from SJ and they upgraded my shipping to one day for free. I got the bulb but have a dumb question. I see lot of dust in there (around the fan). Can I use a vacuum cleaner to suck some dust out or do I need to get one of those gentle low powered vacuums for it? Or should I leave the dust alone? Thanks.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

I use a vac with the soft bristle nozzle. Works great! Absolutely GET RID OF THE DUST (which is an electronic killer, much like mold can be).

Interested to know if Trey updated his firmware.

Thanks. Vacuumed and installed bulb. It restarted once but is working fine. Can you or someone else point me to info on how to check and reset lamp hours?


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Don't think hours can be reset. Just write down the # and tape it to the back of the set.

Nope. However, I noticed right before I flashed the ROM that I was getting 15 blinks, not three. Tried it anyway. No go.

I am puzzled. The DMD was brand new. The error seems like a bad bulb error, but we had another new one on hand (Toshiba part) and that didn't fix it. I am wondering if I got some small debris in the slot where the four-conductor ribbon cable came undone.

I would be game to try anything at this point. Any ideas? One that came to mind would be to put the bad DMD back in and see what happens...
Edited by treyrhodes - 3/1/13 at 1:54am

Trey,

I think it might be the Ballast. Replaced my father-in-law's a couple months ago and now she fires right up.

Anyway for you to swap it out to test if it's bad.

Got a replacement from a place called TVPARTSFORLESS located in San Antonio TX.

I paid approx.$115 for a refurbished one. You have to send them your old one as well.

Hope this helps, Big AL

Thanks, Big Al. This is actually my uncle and aunt's TV; I am helping them out. I have a 70" Vizio LED and a Sharp Aquos 60" LED. Messing with this one seems silly considering state of the art. I wonder at this point if she is throwing good money after bad. This set has perhaps become outmoded. Hrm...

I had 2 light engine replacements on my 65hm167, one for the set having trouble lighting the lamp.

I questioned my repair guy about a ballast replacement and he told me that on this model, Toshiba had incorporated the ballast as a part of the light engine assembly. This supposedly saved them cost in assembly (fewer parts) but made repair more costly as you could no longer order and replace just the ballast as you could in previous models.

This might be just pure BS to justify ordering the more expensive module as opposed to the specific part.

The repair was covered under warranty so I wasn't paying the tab and the set worked fine after the repair was completed.

Just FYI in case a ballast is a problem for any owners out there.

He had no clue. While the ballast is indeed a part of the LE, it is a separate module.

As long as the ballast is available separately, those in need should be good to go.

My last light engine replacement was for the white dot issue. The same repair guy told me that they could not just replace the DMD chip as doing so requires hours of adjustment after the chip swap, making replacing the entire light engine the most cost effective option.

This is obviously BS as many have successfully replaced the DMD chip themselves with good results.

Big Al, Was the yellow light blinking three times? My TV is blinking 3 times ..... 3 times over and over. I have tried the firmware several times but no go. I might try a ballast.

Okay, so... Apparently I am now the owner of this Toshiba DLP. Haha! My relatives got a nice Samsung LED and they gave the old DLP to me. Not sure what I am going to do with it, but I am not going to throw it away. Heck, I already feel like something of an expert on these models after taking it apart about ten times.

Ballast replacement, anyone?

Actually, something comes to mind: is this ballast fused?!
Edited by treyrhodes - 3/4/13 at 6:43pm

I am preparing to do the DMD chip install but hesitant mainly because I am concerned about messing up the focus. Any suggestions to keep this from happening. I have downloaded the U-Tube videos that step you through this process but again I want this to go smooth as silk and not have a focus issue or any issue. A quick answer will get me moving on this project today. Thanks for your help.

Dont mess with the lens and you are good to go.

No sweat Stratoliner, I've done bulb, ballast, and DMD. Had no problems. All parts gotten from ShopJimmy.

hope you were wearing rubber boots or at least waders. He was shovelling LARGE amounts of BS. LOL!

Ok guys, this has probably been asked MANY times before BUT...

I get intermittent noise on certain BDs. It pops in and out but is not the BD itself. Appears as dense "color noise" (multi-colored speckles) that resemble an "old grainy film" look and there will be a couple of luminance flashes (higher level than what was displayed) that resembled an increase in brightness to the point of a light contrast "washout". Could this be an HDMI cable issue? So far I've only seen it on Surfs Up (some REALLY bad) and in my newest copy of Taken (1). Bad DVD to BD translation? Bad disc? My set SUPPOSEDLY supports 1080P/24...

Samsung BD-EM57
Walmart mid-priced HDMI cables (can't remember the brand but I think GE or next up).
Tosh 65HM167

Did it, done with it and happy with it. Took me a few hours to change the chip because I really cleaned up the chassis, lens and inside cabinet. Really was pretty easy after all. The picture is great, no focus issues or alignment problems. Thanks to all who answered my questions.

COTT, I don't won't to steer ya wrong, but

If Bulb is good and it's firmly seated and it tries repeatedly to start up

doesn't, then just blinks yellow its most probably the ballast.

Thats what my Father'n laws did. I knew the bulb was good so I took a $116.00 LEAP OF FAITH

for a replacement ballast and that did the trick.

Thanks for your reply. I think I will give it a try. I will post later after I install it and let you know if it worked.

I had the blinking yellow light issue after a lamp replacement too. Lamp appeared to be fully seated in the receptor and the housing was flush with the cabinet. Screws were tight, etc.

I tried removing and reinserting the lamp. This time the lamp made a slight click as it went in. Looked the same from the outside, but apparently the extra push got the lamp to connect with the power connector in the set. Powered right up after installing the lamp cover (which is needed to get the lamp to fire).

On a lark, I tried this. No go. I think I might order a ballast. It just seems improbable that the part would go bad at the exact same time as I replaced the DMD. Oh, well, it is only a hundred bucks...

Almost burned the damned house down!!

My bulb went out about 3 days ago, so I put in this extra ive been having for a while. The light refused to power on for a good 10 minutes as it went through the cycles, finally I heard a "static" sound and it powered on. I thought nothing of it.
TV worked fine for the past few days, light was bright.
I started to smell a weird smell in the house and thought it was just the GF's cooking(no joke, lol), but then we both started to notice that the smell only happen when we turned the TV on. Strange..... About 1 hour ago, Im in another room and hear a buzzing sound, the sound similar to what you would hear if you say stopped a fan from rotating with your hand. Thought it was just the show on the tv, but as I listened to the tv I heard the sound was solid even through the commercials. I walked into the living room and approached the tv and it got louder. DEFINITELY smelt something burning now. Unplugged the tv(which was still playing perfectly by the way) and decided to check the bulb. The thing would not budge. I couldn't remove it. Triple checked that the screws were out, tried and tried...nothing. Went to the shed and got a pair of pliers and grabbed it and started to forcefully pull and wiggle the light housing. Finally it came loose...along with the burnt plug attached to it.


Anyone have a clue on what happened here? Is it possible that the new bulb had the 2 wires crossed in the housing(its a refurb). I still cant even get the burnt plug off.....


Also, can I buy just this plug since I will now obviously need a new one?






edit:

broke the housing trying to get the plug off. That thing is welded on.
Can anyone confirm for me where the 2 wires are connected?(if you have an old or new bulb laying around). From this view, the wire on the right side of the plug is connected to the back of the bulb, and the left wire to the side of the bulb.


Edited by ScrewDrvr - 3/22/13 at 5:46pm